Macanan

I noticed in the pics of your servo you have your linkage thats connecting on the servo arm in the hole closest to the gear correct ?

NY Rebel

My Feedback: (1)

Yes, that's correct. The 22e is a bit "twitchy" and having the links all the way in on the servo arms helps slow things down little. After you get comfortable flying you can move them out on the arms to try more radical manuvers.

Macanan

Have you also cut the remaining 2 holes rest of the arm off, and kept only what you needed ?

First time ever owning a remote heli so if you would, don't mind the ?'s It's really appreciated.

NY Rebel

My Feedback: (1)

Unless it interferes with the movement of the arm I would leave them like they are. I think I trimmed the very end hole off of mine to make sure it didn't bind during full servo travel.

Macanan

I had to cut the 2 remaining holes on the front servo of the arm to go down to where it's needed, I have it all together now, and put the old blades back on it to test how it would run with blades, tracking is perfect, I'm going to have to wait till the new blades and ball studs I ordered on line to get here before I can fine tune it. Thanks for the detailed information you gave on how to install the V2 head on the Walkera 22E.


PS. You still have your walkera or have you gotten a another heli ? or do you fly anymore ?

NY Rebel

My Feedback: (1)

Glad the post was helpful....
I still have the walkera and and several others....I don't get to fly as much as I would like to but I'm still flying some....
The 22e is great to learn on since it is a "cheaper" initial investment...
I'm most comfortable flying it compared to the others I have...
Good luck with yours and let us know how it turns out.....

Macanan

I think something may be wrong with my servo's or something, when I give throttle full 100% my servo arms are only moving somewhere between 1/16th to 1/8th of an inch, what could be causing this problem ?

NY Rebel

My Feedback: (1)

That would/could be due to the PIT and PLT settings on the Tx. If I remember correctly (been a long time since I've adjusted mine at all) the PLT knob is the one that will adjust for total travel of the collective pitch. The PLT adjust when it starts advancing in relationship to the throttle postion. You have to set dip #8 to the "unlock" postion to effect changes of these two adjustments.
You can do a search on the "22e let's talk" thread to verify if I'm giving the corrct info here

Blizz003

Hey Macanan!

How's it going with those ball links? I'm having much confusion searching for them too... I was using the smaller plastic links that came with the rotor head, but one broke after much crashing and of course I have no spares, so I figured it'd be much easier to switch the metal balls. (as mentioned in the first post?) Did you find something that worked?

-thanks!
Brian

Kielblock

Hi All

Just wanted to know which part to buy (and where I can get it from) if I want to do this conversion on my 22E.
I found the following website, but are uncertain on which part to get:

walkera 22E CNC metal upgrade set new combo [http://www.cnchelicopter.com/servlet...-metal/Detail]
which looks like just CNC upgrades of current parts

or

3dx300 HDX300 Blade CP CNC head combo V2 - Blade-TX [http://www.cnchelicopter.com/servlet...-Blade/Detail]
which looks like a whole head replacement.

Thanks

ps. I'm in South Africa so will probably have to buy online.

NY Rebel

My Feedback: (1)

I would go with this one.... http://www.cnchelicopter.com/servlet...C-metal/Detail
the "upgrade kit" would probably be the easiest for you...

If you go with the complete head (Sonix-V2), you will need to make several other "adjustments".

The Sonix-V2 head is very good and flies well, however it does have it's "problems" as previously discussed in this thread.
If the upgrade kit had been available at the time I did mine, that's what I would have gone for.

BTW ... cnchelicopter is a very reputable vendor, I've purchased many times from them with no problems...

Kielblock

Thanks alot

I'll go with the 'upgrade kit' then, as soon as I break the current standard head, which is bound to happen.
propably should order it already then, thanks for the recommendation of the online shop one does not always know who you can trust.

MK

bigjoe53

hey nyrebel, how has that new head working for you? i just bought the same thing from ebay and i installed it but for some reason the swashplate is coming apart when i go full throttle and it wont let my 22e lift off.. can you help me here. thank you in advance.. ohh by the way i'm new to r/c/ heli's

NY Rebel

My Feedback: (1)

Hmmm... I've never had an issue with the swash separating on the Sonix head.
Check your setup to make sure you're not binding (maybe too much throw on the collective) "forcing" the plate to separate.

bigjoe53

ok i'm still new to all the lingo..lol but how do i check for that?

NY Rebel

My Feedback: (1)

With your motor's unplugged so that you're not spinning either the main rotor or the tail rotor, operate your controls through their full throws with the throttle at 0% and then again at 100% and check to make sure you're not forcing the swash to hit anything upper or lower. You should hear the servos start to "complain" when this happens (a sort of growling sound) ....

tpvdvl

Hello,

I have a 22E and just recently upgraded to the CNC head. I followed NY Rebel's instructions modifying the servo holder and updating the ball studs. While setting everything up, I noticed my collective pitch works in the oppisite direction it should. The blade pitch goes negitive with more throttle! My swash plate is down at 0% throttle, and full up at 100% throttle. What could I be missing????

Thanks for any help anyone could offer, TPVDVL

tpvdvl

Additional Info: My blade grips are oppisite the pics in this thread. I got the CNC head brand new, all assambled except for the tie rods, which I have checked with many other pics. The tie rods all seem to be hooked up corectly, but the entire head is a mirror image of everyone else's. What's up with that!

TPVDVL

NY Rebel

My Feedback: (1)

Check to make sure that your blade grips weren't just turned the wrong way during assembly (in one of "Spoon's" post he mentions trying this when he first started with his head)
They will mount up this way but the ratio on the mixing arms will be wrong and it won't fly, they (the blade grips) would need to be flipped back over to the correct side.

It's possible yours was already set up for the 22e collective.... as mentioned in the first post this was possible to do mechanically, but required the complete dissassembly of the head.
Simply mount your servos back in their original positions and try it out...