microair

Well, I've had my new 5#10 in the air 6 times so far......no crashes yet(thank goodness). I beginning to get a feel for the TX and have performed a few tricky novice maneuvers. I even surprised myself by doing a gentle, spiraling, "side slip" landing. [X(]
I installed the Xtreme heat sinks on both motors today(w/heat sink compound). Tomorrow, I plan on getting at least 3 more flights in(yea, I know...more lipos are on order) and I'll try out the Xtreme blades. My 1st flight in wide open spaces comes on Monday.

woods2007

walkera 5-10 parts on the way.

cflytrap

Just got my 5#10 with 2.4GHz from Xheli today. Right out of the box it flew ok, but I had to give it a couple clicks of left rudder trim to get it to stop nosing right. The TX had the trims set already in various locations, which I assume was from the pre flight testing the factory did before it was shipped to me. I tested it for about 3 or 4 mins in my living room and decided to read up on it a bit and saturate the LiPo. Anyhow, I just finished reading this whole thread and I have a few questions...

Is it the popular belief that before I begin a flight I should center all of my trims? And is there any way to adjust the RX unit to compensate for the anti-clockwise yaw, or will I have to trim in flight, every flight?

The charger that came with this thing is a POS. Like I said, I only flew it for about 3 or 4 mins and it took damn near 90 mins to charge the LiPo until the green light came on. Can anyone suggest something besides the stock charger included with the model?

I started out flying 6 channel heli's (lol) and have gotten proficient at hovering and their setup. This is the first dual rotor heli I have owned. So how do you check for CoG on a model like this?

Well it looks like my battery is ready. Gonna move the couch and get in a quick flight in the living room. I have 2 extra batteries on the way from HK, I am glad I thought ahead on that.

Let me know if you guys have any answers. Thanks fellas!

GTX SlotCar

It's been a while since I've flown mine stock, but I believe I centered the rudder trim before I turned on the Tx, then I'd have to adjust it at the beginning of the flight and constantly move it as the flight continued. So, it started out near the center and ended up near the left (I think). The single cell LiPo doesn't give the mixer much volatage to play with. Give it as much gyro gain as you can until the tail starts hunting.
There are lots of chargers, but the charging time is about right. You don't need to balance anything with a single cell, so all the charger has to do is shut off at about 4.2v. You'll want to charge this battery at 650 to 800mAh, so the stock charger is OK. A faster charge time will really reduce the lifespan of these small batteries. .6C to .8C is a good rate. If you charge it at 1C, it might save you 10 or 15 minutes. It only affects the CC stage of the charge (not the CV stage), and that's the shorter stage anyway. (CC - constant current, CV - constant voltage)
Balance it by the flybar, with the flybar perpendicular to the heli body just like the larger helis. It doesn't matter where the lower blades are.

cflytrap

Thanks for the fast reply Gary. Another question while its fresh on my mind...Perhaps its that I am used to flying larger scale 6 channel heli's that are much more responsive, but the cyclic on the 5#10 needs to be more responsive in my opinion. The swash doesn't move much the way it is set up now (factory). What adjustment can be made to get the servos to move the swash more so I can get a more agressive response from the heli?

You mentioned Gyro gain. Would setting the gain higher make the tail lock in without having to fiddle with trims every flight?

I tried for a second flight tonight but when the heli blew all my wifes homework off the coffee table she made me put it away for the night LOL. I will probably get to run my first whole battery after work tomorrow before the family gets home.

Thanks again

microair

Just a brief update.....

I've logged well over 20 flights by now and am beginning to feel confident with my 5#10. I've been constantly transporting it between work & home, so I invested in a Wing-Tote micro heli bag which holds everything securely. Flying in my living room is fun, but I really like flying it inside the large auto repair facility where I work. The 5#10 can really "spread its wings" there.
After experiencing some control issues w/the Xtreme LamaV4 hard blades, I shortened them by ~5mm(down to stock blade length). They do seem to provide more lift and shortening them did help the control problem, but the motors seem to get much hotter with them. I'll be sticking w/the stock blades for now.
Speaking of hot motors, I discovered that the Heli-Max Rotofly(180 motor) heat sink is perfect for the rear/lower motor. Its larger than the Xtreme heat sinks and covers more of the motor casing. Also, the cooling fins face rearward and are exposed directly to the rotor wash. I put both of the Xtreme CX2 heat sinks on the front/upper motor.
I'm planning on upgrading to Boca ceramic bearings eventually. But that will probably wait until I have to disassemble the heli to replace the gears or something.

GTX SlotCar

There are 2 trimmers that you can adjust. The top one is Sensitive, and that's the gyro gain. It operates just like the gyro gain in your large helis. The higher you can set it, the better it will hold. But, if you go too high the tail will start hunting (back and forth).
The lower trimmer is Extevt, which I assume is supposed to be ExteNt. It's supposed to be the servo end adjustment (servo throw length). Again, like your larger helis, don't adjust it so much that the swash can bind on the shaft or hit the top of the anti rotation guide. But also, don't have so much travel that going from full forward to full reverse will easily cause the upper and lower rotors to collide. X-rotor helis don't like abrupt direction changes. The bugger in the design is that the closer the upper and lower rotors are to each other, the better it'll manuever; but that also makes the rotors collide more. I haven't thought of this before, but I suppose you could eliminate blade collisions if you added another swash to the upper rotor. It would probably give even better response.
X-rotor helis have great hover stability over single rotor, but that's about the only advantage. If you bank one in tight, fast circles, it'll tumble and it's hard to recover.
I'm working on several blades for single rotor, 300 size FP helis like the Honeybee FP, and one design is a "floater". It'll be a training blade. There's a video of a prototype in [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8569382]post 346[/link].

Tedstrickland

My Feedback: (1)

Yep,

been using those Rotorfly 180 sinks for the rear motor for quite some time. If only I could get them in a color other than purple [&o]

Ted

microair

haha...purple [:'(]

I might try to de-anodize mine and make it silver.

Crushalot

Anyone have any luck with upgrading the motors in the 5#10? I know, the stocks are cheap and easy and work pretty good if broken in. I fly the hell out of this bird so I was looking for something with longer motor life. I still want a brushed motor becasue I would like a drop in solution, as I really don;t feel like doing a BL conversion. Since this runs a 3.7V there are not many options. Does anyone know if any of the Atomic RC motors would work that are made for RC cars? I know they run from 4.8 - 8.4V but I'm not sure if any of the non FET'ed 130's could be used in the 5#10 and still produce enough power at 3.7V.

http://www.atomicmods.com/Products/A...or__11087.aspx

Any thoughts?
Thanks

winmkr

Hello:

I need some tech help. I have a walkera 5#10 and replaced the motors and my heli just spins in circles, I sure you have seen that one.
I am good at fixing my helis but it seems when I change the gears or motors I seem to not fix my heli then I am forced to buy a new one which is
too expensive.

Can you give me some insight and let me know what to try, as I really appreciate all of your help!!

Sincerely,

Tony

cflytrap

Here are a couple things to try that may solve your spinning.

1) Check to make sure that both the new motors are wired the same as the old ones. Check to see if the leads weren't done differently at the factory.

2) Try swapping the motor plugs where they plug into the receiver. You may have lower plugged into upper or vice versa

3) Verify that the lower set of blades is spinning clockwise and the upper set is spinning anti-clockwise.

4) If you messed with the gyro sensitivity on the receiver, it may be set too low. try increasing it.

Hope this helps some.

winmkr

Thanks for your help and I know I need to take more digital pic's and attention when I take these helis apart.

Is there any diagrams on the wiring and parts online to review.

Thanks for your help cflytrap!!

Tony

gborislav

You can download from here:
http://www.walkera.com/en1/download.jsp?t=exploded

winmkr

Hello:

I was just on that site, thanks. They do not have the wiring connections though......I took digitals and am going to see if I have one of my connections
shown.

I'll keep trying, Thanks!!

T

winmkr

OK.

I belive my walkera 5#10 is wired correctly. Now the bottom blade does not spin. Is my motor bad?

Thanks..

t

winmkr

Hello:

How do you know if the receiver goes bad? As I throttle up, the lower blade / motor starts to spin then cuts out at medium throttle and full throttle.

Thanks


T

Rowboat

That is a bad RX I had the same problem. You need a new RX. And I hope that you get one that works. I brought two dud RXs in a row before I got a good one.

GTX SlotCar

Unplug the motors and switch the leads to the other terminals (the one plugged in on top is now plugged in on the bottom). If the same motor works, the other one is bad. If the other motor works, the Rx is bad.

winmkr

Thanks Gary!

I switched the motors as you suggested and my walkera 5#10 is now flying!! I actually got this to fly, I had the motors switched and now it is in the air flying. I luv my walkera 5#10!! Thanks to all the suggestions I am now airborne...Sweet!

I will be back again and really appreciate all of the help from the members here at RCUniverse.com!

Sincerely,

Tony
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Unplug the motors and switch the leads to the other terminals (the one plugged in on top is now plugged in on the bottom). If the same motor works, the other one is bad. If the other motor works, the Rx is bad.

_____________________________

Gary
SuperSkids® www.super-skids.com

Aloha Flyer

BEWARE of this vendor!
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for more info and a list of consumer approved Walkera vendors

joeyhatch11

I was going to pick one of these up next Friday because I am looking for something new. I sold my Lama V3 about 2 months ago and I miss it. It has all the Xtreme upgrades and was a ton of fun. With this 5#10, the only thing I dont like is the Lipo battery. I have some 7.4v 900Mah Lipos from the Lama that I thought I'd be avble to use, but I think not. Can this heli handle 7.4v? Or is there anything that can be done so I can make it work? Another thing I dont like is the 3.7v Lipo not have a seperate charge/blaance plug. That would make recharging a long process. Someone please fill me in and let me know what you think. Thanks, Joe

cflytrap

3.7 volt lipo's dont need a balance plug because there is only one cell.  Nothing to balance.  Charge time on one of these batteries is between 60-80 minutes I have found.  I get 7-9 minute flights.  PM me and I will shoot you a link to where I got spare batteries for it dirt cheap. 

5#10 is a great heli i must say.  If you liked your Lama, you'd definitely like this.

joeyhatch11

I'm sure I love it but I was hoping I could use my current charger and lipos for this heli. Now I see they have a 53-1 that'll allow me to use my lipos. But for the 5#10 I found some great deals for lipos on Ebay. (2) lipos from Hong kong $14.99 shipped. Not bad huh? hahaha But I think I'll go with the 53-1. Have you had any problems with blade strikes? Also do you know if the Xtrmee extended shaft will work on the Walkeras?

cflytrap

Yeah the 14.99 from HK is the deal I got on batteries.  I havent done any mods to mine yet its totally stock.  I have had over 20 flights and no crashes or mechanical breakdowns.  Never had a blade strike.  Not a single problem at all, you just have to remember to re center your trim dials before every flight as well as adjust your rudder trim left throughtout the flight.   Thats not a big deal though.

If you do decide to modify yours post some pics and keep us posted on your progress!  I'd like to see it