Perfect Skids for 5#10
07-01-2008, 05:44 PM
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Perfect Skids for 5#10
I'll apologise in advance for potentially stepping on Gary's toes, as it's not my intent to direct any business away from him. I've equipped my HBFP with Superskids (my Avitar) and also my Belt CP. In my opinion, there are no finer skids/landing gear than SuperSkids made at any price for helis of this size.
However, for the tiny Walkera 5#10, Superskids are just a tad too big - especially for use with the stock battery & motors.
Now, take a look at the skids that come outta da' box for the 5#10. They're finely made, but lack that rugged look, feel and durability that would make an ideal skid for this little heli.
On a whim, I found all the pics I could and took a chance & bought some skids made for an Exceed coaxial Heli. After installation & balancing, they're just right. Durable enough to withstand heavy landings in crosswinds, yet light weight enough to not compromise flight time with the stock battery, nor performance & maneuverability.
They don't look bad, either & are white, so I can later dye them blue to match (or red, or whatever color I decide will look the best).
However, for the tiny Walkera 5#10, Superskids are just a tad too big - especially for use with the stock battery & motors.
Now, take a look at the skids that come outta da' box for the 5#10. They're finely made, but lack that rugged look, feel and durability that would make an ideal skid for this little heli.
On a whim, I found all the pics I could and took a chance & bought some skids made for an Exceed coaxial Heli. After installation & balancing, they're just right. Durable enough to withstand heavy landings in crosswinds, yet light weight enough to not compromise flight time with the stock battery, nor performance & maneuverability.
They don't look bad, either & are white, so I can later dye them blue to match (or red, or whatever color I decide will look the best).
07-02-2008, 12:43 AM
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RE: Perfect Skids for 5#10
Could you provide a source, part # and price. They look like a good compromise. Did you use the super-skids aluminum skid along with the Exceed part, or is it all Exceed. Another silly question? What is the best way to "dye" the white parts.....?? Ted
07-03-2008, 09:58 PM
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RE: Perfect Skids for 5#10
http://www.xheli.com/50h12-07.html
I got the dye tip from Gary, when I got his white SuperSkids for my Belt CP. Use Rit Dye, since most plastic is porus & will readily absorb dyes (except the unbreakable Lama v4.CX2 white skids)
I hadn't used any Rit Dye for over 20 years, so I had trouble finding it at the Supermarket. It now comes not only in powder form, but also in little liquid bottles - get the liquid whenever it's available.
Plastics absorb dye. The longer the parts are immersed, the more dye is absorbed & the darker the color becomes. Initially it may look kinda muddy & ugly, but after you've reached the intensity you want, simply rinse in cold water, blot off the parts with a paper towel & let air dry - they brighten up after an hour or so.
I mix the liquid at 1TBSP + 1 TSP liquid dye per 16 oz BOILING water. Also add a pinch of salt.
It's best to clean the parts in cold water with a few drops of dishsoap & rinse completely in cold water before dyeing.
Plastic absorbs dye to attain a darker color the longer it soaks, so concentration of dye to boiling water doesn't need to be exact. In fact, too much dye can darken the plastic too fast. With yellow and red dyes, the procedure took about 20-30+ minutes.
Boiling water is vital when beginning. REALLY boiling, not just bubbling in the microwave.
The results are fantastic. Dye absorbs into the plastic, so there is no loss of detail or chipping or flaking as with paint. When you're done, it looks like the parts came out of the factory packaging in your new color.
I'm currently working on a Crimson Red Lama v3 with Xtreme boom tail & skids & will eventually post pictures once I'm finished with the canopy. Meanwhile, heres my v4 Yellow Peril:
I got the dye tip from Gary, when I got his white SuperSkids for my Belt CP. Use Rit Dye, since most plastic is porus & will readily absorb dyes (except the unbreakable Lama v4.CX2 white skids)
I hadn't used any Rit Dye for over 20 years, so I had trouble finding it at the Supermarket. It now comes not only in powder form, but also in little liquid bottles - get the liquid whenever it's available.
Plastics absorb dye. The longer the parts are immersed, the more dye is absorbed & the darker the color becomes. Initially it may look kinda muddy & ugly, but after you've reached the intensity you want, simply rinse in cold water, blot off the parts with a paper towel & let air dry - they brighten up after an hour or so.
I mix the liquid at 1TBSP + 1 TSP liquid dye per 16 oz BOILING water. Also add a pinch of salt.
It's best to clean the parts in cold water with a few drops of dishsoap & rinse completely in cold water before dyeing.
Plastic absorbs dye to attain a darker color the longer it soaks, so concentration of dye to boiling water doesn't need to be exact. In fact, too much dye can darken the plastic too fast. With yellow and red dyes, the procedure took about 20-30+ minutes.
Boiling water is vital when beginning. REALLY boiling, not just bubbling in the microwave.
The results are fantastic. Dye absorbs into the plastic, so there is no loss of detail or chipping or flaking as with paint. When you're done, it looks like the parts came out of the factory packaging in your new color.
I'm currently working on a Crimson Red Lama v3 with Xtreme boom tail & skids & will eventually post pictures once I'm finished with the canopy. Meanwhile, heres my v4 Yellow Peril:
