ben beyer

My Feedback: (23)

I've never heard of green locktite. How does it compare to red and blue?

Ken Bryant

My Feedback: (10)

Green is a wicking type thread lock. Meaning if you have your parts already together it will wick into the threads and lock. It's very thin and runny. It's strength is similar to red. That's because it usually doesn't take much for it to do it's job.

Given my choices if I know I want to take something apart latter I will use blue. If I want it to stay together for ever I'll use Red. If I have something I want to stay assembled that was preassembled I'll use green.

Hope that helps.

flyingohio

My Feedback: (2)

Green 620 high-temp is the stuff I use. It's a thick, almost gel locking compound. There is also a green "retaining compound" that is very thin, as Ken spoke of.

flyingohio

My Feedback: (2)

Final pictures. I now have the rudder cables sorted, I drilled small holes thru the offending formers with a drill bit attached to a wood dowel. Then I used a TIG welding wire to fish the cables thru the holes. It was a lot of fun! (not!) But now the cables barely rub on anything, so it was worth it. Gaps are sealed with clear ultracoat. In order to balance the plane I had to zip-tie an old tx battery to the back of the motor box, which added about 6oz of weight. As it sits now the plane is a bit over 15.5lbs dry. I guess I went overboard on lightening up the plane w/carbon. As I get used to the plane I'll hopefully move that ballast back and maybe remove it totally... or add a 2nd rx battery where needed.

As you can see I added a few Honda graphics, just to be a bit different.

Now that it's ready to fly, my brand new Hitec PCM rx decided to crap out... I (almost) give up! Off to the Hitec forum I go. Grr!

olstoney

My Feedback: (19)

J.D.,
Looking Good, some of those QPCM receivers were DOA or just not right something with an IC chip. I have two NIB spares here that just came back from Hitec service after being checked out. One was fine as is and Hitec swapped out the other one. Want me to send one up with that other package?

BoneDoc

My Feedback: (1)

Nice work, keep the posts coming.
So what's your AUW?

flyingohio

My Feedback: (2)

Brian- My QPCM is on the way back to Hitec for them to look at, hopefully they replace it w/new.

Bonedoc- Weight w/fuel and the nose weight needed to get it to balance @ 3.0" should be right at 16lb 8oz. If I can take the ballast out after a few flights, it should be just a tick over 16lbs on takeoff.

olstoney

My Feedback: (19)

JD,
Do you want my spare, or are you going to maiden with the PPM?

flyingohio

My Feedback: (2)

I am going to maiden with my PPM... if the #&$^ wind ever stops. If all goes well I'll just rob the QPCM out of my WM Patty, it needs to go down for servo gear maint. anyway.

Ken Bryant

My Feedback: (10)

I maidend mine just the other day. I think you are going to LOVE it. I was really pleased with how the 300LX flew in comparision to my Edge.

BoneDoc

My Feedback: (1)

How is it better than the Edge?

Ken Bryant

My Feedback: (10)

Didn't say better. I just said compaired.
I really liked my edge ALLOT! Till I wrecked it recently. Tom didn't have any in stock when I went looking for my replacement. So I got the 300LX instead. Now that I have flown the 300LX I am releived that it flew as well as my Edge. I hope that clears that up. FWIW, It flies better than my Edge did because I have now built 4 WH planes since the Edge and I really put this plane together better than any of the others. Just learned all the little tricks on the others and applied them to this one
I had it built and flying in 3 days Well After I redid the covering

BoneDoc

My Feedback: (1)

So for general 3D + IMAC, which plane is "best"? (I know that's a loaded word)

Shogun

My Feedback: (2)

The WH planes exhibit the same characteristics as any other Edge/Extra on the markt IMO. The Extra is the better balanced design and does maneuvers like rolling circles and rolling harriers smoother and more axial than ANY Edge can. The Edge OTOH is better at lower speed maneuvers like harriers and elevators, when it's set up correctly(CG, lateral balance, etc.) and the pilot gets to know it's quirks. Extra's have the right wing for snaps and they do them MUCH better than the Edge does, same goes for spins.

I think it all depends on what you really want to do with the plane more than anything else. If you think you want to try your hand at IMAC style aerobatics above the basic level then the Extra is a much better platform than the Edge. If your looking for a plane that can waterfall and harrier around then the Edge is a bit easier to fly that way.

Both are great fliers but comparing them is sort of like comparing a pair of needle nose pliers to a pair of vise grips, both can perform the same tasks but each can do certain tasks better than the other can.

BoneDoc

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks, that's what I need.

Now comparing the LX and SX, are they really that different. I'm leaning toward the SX because it probably flies closer to my H9 260, but I'm open to suggestions.

Shogun

My Feedback: (2)

As I recall Tom said that the LX and Special fly very similar but the Special has less coupling in the knife edge by virtue of it's mid wing configuration, like the Edge. FWIW the LX doesn't have very much coupling anyway so mixing it out is only a matter of 2-4% elevator to rudder, very little really. All of the planes roll very axially but the mid wing planes will do it with little to no aileron differential required. Low wing designs like Caps and the Extra 300L tend to require some dihederal to straighten out the knife edge flying. I think the Wild Hare 300 LX has no dihederal so it needs some mix and differential to get it flying straight but not much.

Basically they are all good so I would just tell you to pick one and get it in the air and have fun.

AZTWINS

Ken,
You mentioned that you have put several WH planes together and learned all the little tricks. I have a WH Edge on order. Can you share the little tricks that you while putting yours together?
Thanks,
Mickey

Ken Bryant

My Feedback: (10)

Mickey,

It's hard to nail down the "tricks". I think it really all comes with knowing how these planes go together. I don't think I opened the manual but once. Allot of this stuff isn't really WildHare specific either. It'a all just a matter of doing it on something else and getting it. I was able to short cut a few things because I already had a working model prior to this one.

For the record I have built/flown/owned the following WildHare planes 28%540 Edge, 28%300 Special, 28%300 LX, 29%Ultimate. I see more in my future too

1. Making sure you have plenty of deflection in the ailerons, elevators and rudder. (you need to trim away just a small amount of the balsa in each hinge to get the deflection where you want it.
2. I use bonded washers on my cowl mount screws and on my canopy mount screws. This keeps them from loosening in flight.
3. I have Hitech servos that I programed up for the plane. Just knowing how to do this quickly sped me up.
4. This is the first plane I didn't have to redrill any or the hard point mounts on the flight controls. YEA!
5. Install your control horns before mounting it to the fuselage, wing or elevator. Check for allignment issues on the horns.
6. Check elevator 0 incednce before installing elevator moving surfaces.
7. Build and finish wings before doing anything. There is a great sence of accomplishment in getting these done and out of the way.
8. Skip the damn wheel pants.
9. Since I already had a good idea where I wanted my CG I set it on it's final place.
10.Making the pushrods was real fast becase I already figured out how to do them from the first build. Use a Dremel cut off wheel to cut everything
11. Since I already had a good plane in my radio I didn't have to do allot of reprogamming to get this one where I wanted it.

Sorry I couldn't be more helpful but it's the old story with repetition comes speed.

Shogun

My Feedback: (2)

I agree with Ken on everything he mentioned. I too have another WH project on the bench at the moment and yes they do go faster once you are familiar with the assembly sequence.

Something I want to add is to make sure you wick some thin CA on EVERY possible joint you can get to. The WH planes are put together pretty well but like all ARF's they can benefit from additional adhesive applied liberally in as many locations as possible. Something else to consider is using brass tubing to line the holes for the canopy hold down screws. The reason I did this is because after repeated tightening the balsa will crush under the head of the screw/washer and looks pretty bad. It's simple to do, just find some brass tubing that the screw fits through and cut off a peice the same width as the fuse side where the screw passes through, drill out the hole to accomodate the tubings slightly larger diameter and epoxy them in. Now when you tighten the screws up the head of the screw bears on the brass, not the wood.

Like Ken mentioned, check the horizontal stab(s) incidence and the wings incidence. Both of the planes I have had these off slightly and I can't stress this enough how much smoother the planes fly when this is all set to ZERO. Don't fight it just go out and buy an incidence meter right now if you don't have one, better yet buy 2 as that allows you to check and compare surfaces at the same time, you'll be glad you did.

Dangerous Dan

My Feedback: (1)

Buy the new Handger ( digital insidence/thrust/level/deflection meter.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Shop/ByC...?ProdID=HAN192

The rod will be too short for a wildhares wings just go to your local home improvement store(found mine at lowes) and get some aluminum stock the same size as the rods. if the wings aer off remove the round ply doublers for the anti rotation pins and elongate the holes until the insidence is on. once it is ser mfg and glue on new doublers.

I like the brass tubing canopy screw idea.

rcflyr2

My Feedback: (2)

SIX fights and all I needed was three clicks of down. Good call on the canopy hold down screws. Also, my plane was damaged on the bottom When I opened the box. Tom

olstoney

My Feedback: (19)

Ken,
As you suggested this post has been edited. It matters not anymore BTW, this was not shipping damage. The problem was warped lower right stringer out of the box that was repaired once and then popped back out a week later. The stringer cracked when popping back out and caused the covering to suck up into the belly. The permanent repair was to strip the covering off the entire bottom replace the defective stringer and then recover trying to stay with the factory seams. The repair took the builder two hours and was awesome when finished, I was not charged for the repair work.

I do not feel that it was my responsibility to have to foot the bill to make these repairs to a brand new model. I'm also honest enough to admit that I am not skilled enough in some respects to do so. I bought a WH plane as they do not need to be modified to the extent that some other offerings need to be in order to fly well. All I ever wanted to have a new in appearance airplane. New parts were requested, but were not offered like they were to some folks. To make my new airplane look like it should have took an extra $114.00 in repair expenses on my part.

Ken Bryant

My Feedback: (10)

olstoney,

I don't think this thread is the place for you to express your issues with WH. If anything you should have started a new thread. This thread is still about a 300LX Plane. Not a problem beyond that. I would hope you might remove or edit out your post in this thread. If you still have an axe to grind please take it to a new thread.

Basically I don't see it's relevence here.

Just my 2 cents.

Shogun

My Feedback: (2)

I don't get it, the shipper is responsible for the damage to the models in the vast majority of these circumstances but the vendor gets the blame. I completely understand where Tom is comming from when he suggests that someone might try to fix the damage if possible because of the extreme inconvenience involved with filing a claim against the shipper. Unfortunately it's the end customers responsibility to file any damage claims and the shipper will more than likley want the merchandise returned in full, so your basically out a plane after waiting for 3 months to get it in the first place. This is all just an unfortunate aspect of doing business through the mail, happens all the time.

After going through all of this at times in the past I can say that, while I would be extremely annoyed, I would attempt the fix myself if I thought it was feasible. Sometimes practicality comes before convenience, it stinks but that's just life and YMMV.

I recently had an issue with a warped elevator on my second Edge. The part was so badly warped it was simply unuseable. I called Tom and he and Pat sent a complete stab/elevator assembly. Guess what.....the shipper crushed the left elevator pretty good so all I got was the right one that was all I needed in the first place. Was any of this Tom's fault? Nope, but he did work with me to take care of the problem and, while I'm annoyed with UPS I have no issues with Wild Hare.

rctom