Wild Hare Electrics
#126
RE: Wild Hare Electrics
ORIGINAL: droland
BTW, I picked up a couple of these Friday.
Twoof the 540's, butone was suppose to be a Slick.
For those of you that have them, did any of you find that the canopy latch would not work.
Mine will not budge and I can't get the canopy off.
Tom says maybe it got glue on it during the construction.
If anyone has had the issue and found a solution, I'd like to hear about it.
Thanks, Dan
BTW, I picked up a couple of these Friday.
Twoof the 540's, butone was suppose to be a Slick.
For those of you that have them, did any of you find that the canopy latch would not work.
Mine will not budge and I can't get the canopy off.
Tom says maybe it got glue on it during the construction.
If anyone has had the issue and found a solution, I'd like to hear about it.
Thanks, Dan
I found you must lift the ball lever up before sliding it.
Sorry if you already knew that
#130
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: , TX
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Wild Hare Electrics
[quote]ORIGINAL: rctom
Then I'll have a servo package with 4 Hitec HS-81s TF
Is there enough re-inforcement behind it to trim out that far and still have enough left for the servo screws?
#131
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Flower Mound (near Dallas),
TX
Posts: 6,189
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
RE: Wild Hare Electrics
Tom, will there be a fitment issue with the HS-81 since it is about 29mm long and the servo mount is 23mm long.
Is there enough re-inforcement behind it to trim out that far and still have enough left for the servo screws?
The aileron servo holes do not have those backing pieces so the hole must be lengthened a little, there is plenty of room to do this and again it only takes a few seconds.
TF
#132
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Cleveland,
TX
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Wild Hare Electrics
I have a question that I am almost embarrass to ask. I am building up a E-Slick-540, and after bolting on the motor and cowling I am having a hard time figuring out how to tighten the prop nut. I hold the prop and spinner backing plate but when I try to tighten the prop nut the motor turns. As I have about 1/8” clearance between the spinner back plate and the cowling I see no way to hold the motor shaft in order to tighten the nut. Am I overlooking something here?
The only thing I can think of at this point is to custom build a spanner wrench that will fit the motors prop adapter from 1/16” aluminum.
There must be an easier way to do this?
Thanks
peteb
The only thing I can think of at this point is to custom build a spanner wrench that will fit the motors prop adapter from 1/16” aluminum.
There must be an easier way to do this?
Thanks
peteb
#133
RE: Wild Hare Electrics
ORIGINAL: peteb
I have a question that I am almost embarrass to ask. I am building up a E-Slick-540, and after bolting on the motor and cowling I am having a hard time figuring out how to tighten the prop nut. I hold the prop and spinner backing plate but when I try to tighten the prop nut the motor turns. As I have about 1/8” clearance between the spinner back plate and the cowling I see no way to hold the motor shaft in order to tighten the nut. Am I overlooking something here?
The only thing I can think of at this point is to custom build a spanner wrench that will fit the motors prop adapter from 1/16” aluminum.
There must be an easier way to do this?
Thanks
peteb
I have a question that I am almost embarrass to ask. I am building up a E-Slick-540, and after bolting on the motor and cowling I am having a hard time figuring out how to tighten the prop nut. I hold the prop and spinner backing plate but when I try to tighten the prop nut the motor turns. As I have about 1/8” clearance between the spinner back plate and the cowling I see no way to hold the motor shaft in order to tighten the nut. Am I overlooking something here?
The only thing I can think of at this point is to custom build a spanner wrench that will fit the motors prop adapter from 1/16” aluminum.
There must be an easier way to do this?
Thanks
peteb
I haven't gotten to the point of tightening the prop nut yet. VERY good question!
I await an answer as well...
#134
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Flower Mound (near Dallas),
TX
Posts: 6,189
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
RE: Wild Hare Electrics
There are a couple ways to do it that I have found, others may have more ideas.
The simplest method is to simply twist the prop against the shaft as you tighten the nut to hold the shaft in place with friction. Once it starts to snug up against the hub the prop should grab and hold. This is always subject to how the spinner backplate tightens against the hub, it works better with a metal backplate spinner.
The other way is simply to file or grind two flat spots on opposite sides of the tip of the shaft and hold the shaft with a small wrench or pliers until the nut starts to tighten.
TF
The simplest method is to simply twist the prop against the shaft as you tighten the nut to hold the shaft in place with friction. Once it starts to snug up against the hub the prop should grab and hold. This is always subject to how the spinner backplate tightens against the hub, it works better with a metal backplate spinner.
The other way is simply to file or grind two flat spots on opposite sides of the tip of the shaft and hold the shaft with a small wrench or pliers until the nut starts to tighten.
TF
#135
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Carrollton,
TX
Posts: 819
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Wild Hare Electrics
All,
Try cutting circles out of 240 or 320 sticky back sand paper. You can stick it to the drive washer or the back of the prop.
Twist the prop like Tom says and tighten the nut down. I find you dont have to really torque the nut down with the sandpaper more than just snug it tight.
hope this helps.
jds
Try cutting circles out of 240 or 320 sticky back sand paper. You can stick it to the drive washer or the back of the prop.
Twist the prop like Tom says and tighten the nut down. I find you dont have to really torque the nut down with the sandpaper more than just snug it tight.
hope this helps.
jds
#137
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: , TX
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Wild Hare Electrics
I was test fitting some parts today.
Seems one of my ailerons is warped quite a bit and twisted.
I can't get it flush with the wing. It ends up with a gap on one end or the other.
Anyone know how to go about fixing this?
Seems one of my ailerons is warped quite a bit and twisted.
I can't get it flush with the wing. It ends up with a gap on one end or the other.
Anyone know how to go about fixing this?
#138
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Cleveland,
TX
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Wild Hare Electrics
Alright!!
A combination of twisting the prop and spinner back plate and a sandpaper disk behind the spinner back plate did the trick. The prop nut is tight.
Thanks guys,
A combination of twisting the prop and spinner back plate and a sandpaper disk behind the spinner back plate did the trick. The prop nut is tight.
Thanks guys,
#139
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Flower Mound (near Dallas),
TX
Posts: 6,189
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
RE: Wild Hare Electrics
ORIGINAL: droland
I was test fitting some parts today.
Seems one of my ailerons is warped quite a bit and twisted.
I can't get it flush with the wing. It ends up with a gap on one end or the other.
Anyone know how to go about fixing this?
I was test fitting some parts today.
Seems one of my ailerons is warped quite a bit and twisted.
I can't get it flush with the wing. It ends up with a gap on one end or the other.
Anyone know how to go about fixing this?
TF
#140
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: , TX
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Wild Hare Electrics
Tom, I didn't want to trouble you on Christmas if it was something easy to take care of.
So I assume it is not an easy fix and needs replacing from your post.
Do I need to call or email you now that you know about it?
So I assume it is not an easy fix and needs replacing from your post.
Do I need to call or email you now that you know about it?
#141
Junior Member
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Baker City,
OR
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Wild Hare Electrics
I have been to the web site for wild hare. Noticed the sale on the 540 electrics. Read this entire thread and an interested in getting one. I could not find a way to order on the site. How do I order one?
#142
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Flower Mound (near Dallas),
TX
Posts: 6,189
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
RE: Wild Hare Electrics
ORIGINAL: jcubby
I have been to the web site for wild hare. Noticed the sale on the 540 electrics. Read this entire thread and an interested in getting one. I could not find a way to order on the site. How do I order one?
I have been to the web site for wild hare. Noticed the sale on the 540 electrics. Read this entire thread and an interested in getting one. I could not find a way to order on the site. How do I order one?
#143
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Cleveland,
TX
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Wild Hare Electrics
Question for Droland.
I saw the picture you posted of the cooling air exhaust cutouts on the bottom of your plane and was curious as to how they are working. Do you think they are doing the job?
I saw the picture you posted of the cooling air exhaust cutouts on the bottom of your plane and was curious as to how they are working. Do you think they are doing the job?
#144
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: , TX
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Wild Hare Electrics
ORIGINAL: peteb
Question for Droland.
I saw the picture you posted of the cooling air exhaust cutouts on the bottom of your plane and was curious as to how they are working. Do you think they are doing the job?
Question for Droland.
I saw the picture you posted of the cooling air exhaust cutouts on the bottom of your plane and was curious as to how they are working. Do you think they are doing the job?
I have since also noticed the louvers in the cowl and sure would like to know how to do that.
Mine is not fying yet.
Got my wings and stabs on.
I must say I like the way it looks since I already have the 88" version.
#145
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Cleveland,
TX
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Wild Hare Electrics
Thanks droland,
I went back and took a look at CYCLONEMAN55 pictures. Can’t tell if those are louvers in the cowl or just slots. Bet that took a lot of time with a dremel tool. Being located on the front portion of the cowl I would think that is a high pressure area and would be taking in air instead of letting the air out. Unless they are true louvers. Just a guess on my part since I am not an aerodynamicist. I had to look that word up in the dictionary.
I went back and took a look at CYCLONEMAN55 pictures. Can’t tell if those are louvers in the cowl or just slots. Bet that took a lot of time with a dremel tool. Being located on the front portion of the cowl I would think that is a high pressure area and would be taking in air instead of letting the air out. Unless they are true louvers. Just a guess on my part since I am not an aerodynamicist. I had to look that word up in the dictionary.
#147
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 100
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Wild Hare Electrics
Tim,
Go to the Wild Hare web site. They are on sale until the 3rd of January, 2011. There is a deal on the power unit as well. A new servo package is in the works as well. I have one of the slicks on order. This will be my 5th Wild Hare. Give Tom a call and he will be happy to tell you all the pricing.
John
Go to the Wild Hare web site. They are on sale until the 3rd of January, 2011. There is a deal on the power unit as well. A new servo package is in the works as well. I have one of the slicks on order. This will be my 5th Wild Hare. Give Tom a call and he will be happy to tell you all the pricing.
John
#148
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Flower Mound (near Dallas),
TX
Posts: 6,189
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
RE: Wild Hare Electrics
With 5 HS-81s the price is $260 with plane, servos and power kit.
There's another servo kit with 4 HS81s and a standard size HD-3001 (or we can substitute several other servos) for $275 total and it includes a pull-pull kit.
Shipping is $20 in lower 48 states if you get the power kit, $15 without the power kit.
TF
There's another servo kit with 4 HS81s and a standard size HD-3001 (or we can substitute several other servos) for $275 total and it includes a pull-pull kit.
Shipping is $20 in lower 48 states if you get the power kit, $15 without the power kit.
TF
#149
Senior Member
My Feedback: (50)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Rocklin, CA
Posts: 203
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Wild Hare Electrics
well I got two of these planes on the way
now I need to order some batteries for them what is everyone using. I was looking at the zippys from hobby king 4cell 3300 - 4000 will thes be ok and what c raitng should I get 25c-30c 40c or is there bettery batteries for a little more money this will be my first electric plane and I dont have any batteries this big
Thanks Tim
now I need to order some batteries for them what is everyone using. I was looking at the zippys from hobby king 4cell 3300 - 4000 will thes be ok and what c raitng should I get 25c-30c 40c or is there bettery batteries for a little more money this will be my first electric plane and I dont have any batteries this big
Thanks Tim
#150
Senior Member
My Feedback: (50)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Rocklin, CA
Posts: 203
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Wild Hare Electrics
I got mine yesterday friday everthing looks good now I just need to order some batteries what is eveyone using 4 cell ? 3300 ? 4000 ? And what C25 ? 30 ?
Thanks Tim
Thanks Tim