YS .63 will not stay running
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YS .63 will not stay running
I just recently bought a new YS .63. This is my first YS engine so I am not that familar with them. I broke it in to the instructions. It now starts and idles great and the transistion to topend is good but it just starts to load up and just dies after about 30 seconds to 1 minute of running. It does this every time. It is also mounted inverted and leaks fuel quite badly after the engine shuts down which stops when I pull the pressure hose fuel dot. The settings I have been using are 1 turn out on the low speed and 2 turns out on the high with the regulator screw flush with the top of the housing. I have taken the regulator assembly apart and is clean as a whistle. I did make a mistake similar to a previous thead and pulled the wrong side of the check valve when fueling and found out the hard way (fuel spraying everywhere).
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YS .63 will not stay running
Ok, I have checked the regulator for trash and found none, I replaced the check valve with a new one and I will readjust the valve clearence. I am unsure what it is presently set at. Is the clearence suppose to be .003 when the spring is fully depressed? Will try to run again today.
#5
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YS .63 will not stay running
The valve spring is at rest when you adjust the valves. Take the plug out and find TDC. Both valves should have .003 clearance at this point.
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I found the clearence on one of the valve excessively tight. After setting it to the proper clearence compression seems to have improved quite a bit. Have yet to run the engine though. Hopefully today I will get a chance.
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Ok, I had what I would call a successful run of this engine today. I was able to run the engine without it dieing all of a sudden. I noticed that the engine would load up with fuel around 3/4 throttle but full throttle would clean it out. Probably too rich on the high end needle what do you think? There was a noticable drop in rpm when removing the glow heater at idle. I was able to reduce but not eliminate this by eventually screwing out the low end needle 2 turns. I also leaned the regulator by screwing the screw in a 1/4 of a turn. Seems to be running alot better but not perfect. Any more suggestions would be highly appreciated.
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YS .63 will not stay running
Morgan Fuels Pro Pattern 20%+ 2 ounces of added castor. This fuel is very similar to Powermaster YS 20/20 which I will switch to after this is used up.
OS F plug (I also have YS 4 which is better?)
13X4W APC
OS F plug (I also have YS 4 which is better?)
13X4W APC
#10
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YS .63 will not stay running
Both the OS and YS plugs are made by OS. They are identical, so no problem there.
Prop is ok, too.
The fuel maybe part of the problem. If you are adding oil, use synthetic. The YS engines are not fond of castor.
Let me know how it goes.
Dave
Prop is ok, too.
The fuel maybe part of the problem. If you are adding oil, use synthetic. The YS engines are not fond of castor.
Let me know how it goes.
Dave
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Thanks again, Dave. I have another gallon of the Pro pattern 20% without the castor added I will try. The oil level in this fuel is 20 percent without the castor added anyway. I guess I can burn the remaining 20% with castor in my two stroke engines. I also have some Coolpower 30% heli fuel that I use in my heli I might try.
#12
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YS .63 will not stay running
I run the either CP 30 heli or Powermaster 30 heli in my 63 and it loves it! We are at 5000' elevation and it helps the power. You might find it ok in cooler weather but on hot humid days it might want to detonate a bit.
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YS .63 will not stay running
Hi Dave.
Good to see some one from YS showing a lot of intrest helping people. Most manufacturers do not care after the sale has been made.
I was wondering why YS does not include a wrench for valve adjustment in their 63 size engine?
Regards Mike
Good to see some one from YS showing a lot of intrest helping people. Most manufacturers do not care after the sale has been made.
I was wondering why YS does not include a wrench for valve adjustment in their 63 size engine?
Regards Mike
#14
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YS .63 will not stay running
Why YS quit including tools is a mystery to me. They used to supply them with all the engines. We asked that they be included with the engines and have been ignored.
Sorry.
Sorry.
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Ok, I was able to get the engine to run well enough to get it airborne. It is still loading up some but not enough to kill the engine. When I first start the engine it runs well with good transistion and idle. It then starts to load down rich after about a minute or so making the transition hestitant and the top end loads up on extented vertical climbs. I have backed the low speed out at least 2.5 to 3.0 turns to keep it running. What could possibly cause this engine to load up like this. Is it that I am running the high end a little too rich for break in causing the engine to load up. If so how much rpm should I decrease the high end for breakin to avoid the loading up problems. I am kind of at a loss being this is my first YS engine.
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I would say it is about 1.75 turns open. It is still running pretty rich so maybe I need to lean the regulator some to fix the hestitant transition. I think I will do this: Start the engine and peak out the high end needle and back off 300 rpm and the set the low end like is described on the YS Performance site. I will then check the transition and lean or richen the regulator screw to adjust the transition of the engine. Then I will richen up the topend to let it have enough lube to breakin properly. Is this a proper understanding of how the needles and regulator affect the performance of the YS engines. If I can not get it to run after this then maybe I need to send it in for service.
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With the help of a friend who is very familiar with the YS line of engines we got it running right. The regulator turned out to be lean instead of rich when turned flush with the housing. Once we turned the regulator out the engine straightened out and ran nicely. I now have it set about 500 rpm rich for breaking but the topend peak is kind of worrying me. With a static rpm of 11200 on the ground still breaking in I think this is kind of pushing it. Maybe I should switch to the 14x4W APC instead of the 13x4W. What do you think?