dobra

Hi every one,
I need some advice from anyone knowing a bit about these engines. Well what I have done is purchase a second hand one and not knowing any thing about its history. I dont even know about these engines.
Well I am sure I can get it up and running but what I would like to know is if the cam area within the bearing housing should be making a ticking noise. I think it should'nt but as I said I know nothing about these.
I just hope the motor is not a piece of worn junk. Will wait for a reply before I start it just incase.
Take care all

faulknej

My Feedback: (9)

Mine clicks when I spin the prop, and it runs fine.

apereira

As faulknej said, it's normal.

dobra

I did not think I would get that quick a response and I have started it ok and boy do they pick up quick. That is going to be some what more powerfull than the os120 pumper I just took out of my plane.
What I did notice is that it would not start on the sugested 1 and 1/2 turn out on the needle. I had to go 2 turns but I am using 10%. Its all I have in the garage. I can not wait to give this plane a try.
Its in a C G extra 300.
Thanks for responding so quickley guys.

petec

My Feedback: (58)

Make sure the fuel you use has 20% oil in it. 10% nitro will run but it will be harder to get just right as higher nitro fuel widen the sweet spot on the needle settings.

ThumbSkull

My Feedback: (57)

They click. No problem there. Use 20%-30% Nitro with 20% oil. Makes tuning way less sensitive. Stay with the same fuel %'s and the tuning will stay easy. The cam is supported by ball bearings unlike the Saitos. I pop off the rocker cover every 10 flights or so and run some oil down the pushrods just to be sure. The prop I like on it for sport planes is a 16x6.

dobra

Getting yamada 20% tomorrow. prop I use on my extra is a 15x8. I will see how it goes but might try a 16 x 6 just for the hell of it.

petec

My Feedback: (58)

A tachometer is your friend when tuning these engines. Make sure you have one handy so you can see if the prop is too much of a load. YS 20/20 will also make your life a lot easier.

dobra

I always use a tacho. Good sugestion.

dobra

Well I have been up with the plane. I used yamada 20% and 15x8 prop. It spun to 1060 but I did back it off.
The fuel consumption was very poor. I must admit that I was giving some throttle more so than normal, only because I was amazed at the power.
I am still concerned that there might be a slight problem with it as it used alot of fuel as I allready said but also the mixture screw was 2 and 1/4 turns out. I used 12oz of fuel in about 7mins.
It could do with some more fine tunning but its nearly there and dont think the consumtion of fuel will change that much.
Well can any one tell me if its normal or can I expect better out of it. Here is a link to show what plane it is in now.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_24...11/key_/tm.htm
Thanks dobra

ThumbSkull

My Feedback: (57)

That seems close on fuel. I get 10 minutes of 3D on 10oz. with a 6lb. profile.
I'm not at full throttle much though.

dobra

I thought it might be considering the power output. I am still grinning from ear to ear.

petec

My Feedback: (58)

1060? 10600 RPM? You want to get the engine in the 8900-9500 RPM range.

dobra

thanks for pointing that out.
9600 i was running

petec

My Feedback: (58)

Not that the 1.10 could not run at 10600 as I'm sure Chris will attest to, but unless you are racing no reason to run the engine that hard and risk damage.

bigal126

My Feedback: (18)

I picked up a used 110 FZ. Set HS needle at 1.5 turns out. Put a 15 x 8 APC prop on it. 20/20 fuel. Started it up, let it warm up at about 4000 RPM for 1 minute, then slowy rolled it up to WOT, and my tach was showing over 12,000 RPM. I quickly cut the throttle back to about 4000, richened the HS needle to 2 turns, and ran the throttle back up. Same thing over 12,000. When leaned out it hit over 13,000, then backed it out 4 clicks. Everyting I read says to run the engine at 9500 max. What do I do? Do I use my EPA on the radio to keep the engine down at the 9500 or try another prop? Help please.

petec

My Feedback: (58)

One of three possible answers...... that is one strong 1.10, you took the tach readings under artifical light, or your tach is off. The tach is easy to test, set it to two blade prop and point it at a florescent light about 3 feet away. It should read 3600 RPM.

Let us know what you find.

bigal126

My Feedback: (18)

Tach is brand new - Hobbico and it reads 3600. Seems to work correctly when I used it on my 46 AX. The engine is mounted on my plane. It was started in the garage about 10 feet from the door on a table I built for my planes. I placed the tach in front of the engine with the sunlight in the background - door wide open. Sunny day. I'll take it to the field next nice day and try again outside. If the engine still runs strong, what size prop should I try next?

petec

My Feedback: (58)

If the lights were on in the garage you will get an erroneous reading.

bigal126

My Feedback: (18)

I'll start all over outside. Weather's finally turning. [8D] Thanks.

petec

My Feedback: (58)

If I was closer I'd come and help. Let us know how you fare.

bigal126

My Feedback: (18)

I finally got a chance to fire it up outside this time. Using a 16 x 6 APC this time I was able to get the engine running and everything appeared to be good. It held its idle real well at 2000 and topped out at 9600 backed off of peak about 3 clicks. Seemed to be running just fine, but then I noticed the exhaust came loose. Bummer, didn't have time to remove the cowl and mess with it. Any tips here. I thought I had it torqued down pretty good. Should I use locktite?

petec

My Feedback: (58)

I've never used loctite on the exhaust, just make sure the jamb nut is tight.

nonstoprc

My Feedback: (90)

Wrap around the extension pipe with a piece of teflon tape (sold in HomeDepot for pluming) and screw the extension to the engine's exhaust exit, do the same for the muffler. Tight the nut.

I have been using this method on all my YS engines. It works great!

Zeeb

My Feedback: (41)

I found one other thing that really helped me on my 110's with the exhaust coming loose issue; tighten the stuff while it's hot. Bit tricky to keep from burning your fingers but can be done and that along with the Teflon tape use solved my issues.