i_soar

My Feedback: (2)

I'm installing my 140 in a sport plane and will be putting the ignition module inside the plane behind the firewall. Is there any problem with the sensor wires following beside the spark wire? I assume the shielding will protect the sensor signal. Is this a bad idea? Has anyone done this?

Thanks,
John Hayes

krayzc-RCU

My Feedback: (31)

you should not have a probem at all i assume by now u are up and running...

i_soar

My Feedback: (2)

Krazyc,

I have run it on the test stand but haven't paid much attention to the wire routing except for the radio (glitching). The engine will be installed for good in the plane tonight, the wires will be fed inside through a hatch, the cutout is sized for the two wires. From your comment I assume this shielding takes care of the high energy pulses. Thanks for your input, I'm Psyched, it's been a long winter here in NH.

John Hayes

supertiger

could any of you guys describe the set up you are using in your planes. "how the engine ignition and batteries are located in relation to the receivers and receiver batteries. my airplane is suffering a bad glitch at about 3/4 throttle it almost cost me my plane today but was able to get it back safely by shutting down the engine and dead sticking the landing. Ive already switched receivers and removed a reversing Y-harness that i suspected but the glitch is still there, It seemed not to glitch when i first field tested it the batteries were fully charged at that time but after about 5 minuets in flight it started a throttle glitch every so often but i kept on flying after a few more minuets it started glitching both the throttle and the other flight controls, then it got worse the more it stayed in the air, thus the emergency landing to save the plane. i have my engine ignition battery located side by side with the receiver battery and they are located in the tail of the plane, the wires do run side by side with the servo wires, can this ignition battery transfer interference to the receiver?

i_soar

My Feedback: (2)

I have my ignition battery up front behind the firewall, adjacent to it, is a nose gear servo, which I wound up shielding with some copper foil. Also I ran copper braid over the nose gear servo leads, thats OK now.

I still have issues with a loose muffler (not the pitts style) that I need to get past. Any loose metal to metal contacts can cause noise and result in glitching. With the exception of my shielded servo I have done everything possible to keep the radio gear and the engine ignition component as far from each other as possible.

Seems to me like the batteries for the ignition in the tail and running adjacent to the servo wires and RX power wires may not be good, I woud look at changing this, and I think with your engine there was a small clamp? This should be used to clamp the base of the spark plug cap, aparently it has been discovered that this can be a source of loose metal to metal contact resulting in noise for the radio (glitches) Good luck, let me know how you make out.

John Hayes

krayzc-RCU

My Feedback: (31)

i have my batteries on the firewall one is on the left the other is on the right (inside portion of the walls) so i am only 3-4 inches apart at best. make sure you pull pull is not touching a elevator wire also. let me know if a pic needs to be sent.....

supertiger

thanks for the response, Krayzc I noticed in another thread that you are also looking for a light weight plane for the 1.40 engine , I really like the RCS 1.40 and thought that the UCan=do would be the perfect plane for this engine but it has turned out to be a real problem getting all the bugs worked out. the fuse on this plane is so narrow that it hard to put any distance between the servos,receiver and ignition components. I'm thinking that since the U-can-do had enough room to locate the fuel tank over the center of gravity then there is no need in keeping the empty space where the fuel tank originally went and i might cut off the 4or 5 inches of empty space and relocate the engine fire wall about a half inch from the leading edge of the wing. with the engine located 4or 5 inches closer to the center of gravity it wont require so much tail weight to balance the engine and might bring the total weight of the plane down to around 8lbs instead of the 10 or 11 lbs its at now. and there is still enough room under the canopy to mount the ignition modual and egnition battery still over the center of gravity.

GoeKeli

My Feedback: (18)

Supertiger,
I went and bought a UCANDO for my RCS 140 but have not put it together yet. Maybe I should not!~( Kinda bummed. I hear what you are saying about the ballance. Just from looking at the model it seems the nose is long and for some people to ballance a saito 100 on it proves it is. Where is you receiver battery? Do you have the hose clamp really cranked down on your ignition cap? I had to send in my 140 and it is currently on the bench! It was not a good experience trying to get it to run. Hope that RCS can help me,.
Good luck with the UCANDO

Joe

krayzc-RCU

My Feedback: (31)

i am def. looking for a model to install the 140 that will be in the weight range to let me take advantage of the power of the rcs. i have not ruled out the u can as i can put a hatch in the rear if needed for the receiver battery to move that weight to the rear to off set the motor. i should see and hear more about this combo as the weather will bring out the flyers and fly ins and so forth to go to......

supertiger

Goekeli, both my receiver and ignition batteries are side by side in the tail of the plane, all the way back, the 1.40 looks as if it where made for this plane, it fits perfectly under the engine cover. my problem is that I'm getting a glitch and I'm narrowing it down to it either the wire throttle rod vibrating to close to the engine or its the ignition battery that it located to close to the receiver and receiver battery and i me that i have the two batteries bundled together in the same hatch. Have any of you looked at the morris hobbies Balsanova 120 it is reported to weigh in at 9 lbs to 10.25 lbs with a MVVS 1.50 two stroke. this of course my be all hype to sell some airplanes. on another subject i used a fish scale to weigh my U=can -do and it weighed in at 11 lbs not 10 lbs i originally thought then i started the RCS 1.40 in the driveway and tied the tail to the fish scale and tested the horizontal thrust and it pulled only 13.5 lbs at full throttle using a 17x8 prop, i was under the impression from reading on the RCS web page that this prop should put out 17 lbs of thrust and if it did put out 17 lbs of thrust then the U-can-do would have unlimited 3D power. i wonder if i need to try other props or re-tune the engine some.

kenair

My Feedback: (10)

Basic Rules to follow when using gas engines.

1. Use a fuel tank stopper and fuel lines compatible with gasoline.

2. Use a non metal throttle pushrod, so that ignition noise is not brought back to the throttle servoe.

3. Keep a minimum 6" separation from the gas engine to any R/C component.

4. If using electronic ignition, keep the ignition battery up at the firewall and away. from r/c components

other rcs/ mvvs info on my site at

http://www.sportrc.com/smallgassers.html

http://www.sportrc.com/smallgassers.html

supertiger

Kenair, thanks for the info, looks like ive many things put together wrong on my plane, its a wonder i even got the plane back on the ground safely at all.

GoeKeli

My Feedback: (18)

Supertiger, keep us informed about the results when you separate the radio and ignition components. How far back is the throttle servo? Anything else you could move to the back besides ignition stuff? I am still optimistic about this project if I can get an engine.

Joe

kenair

My Feedback: (10)

Just stay at it ST, about 4 years ago I sold all my glow engines and fly gas & electric, love gas - no slime, cheap fuel!

I switched my MVVS 1.6 to Amsoil 50:1 today, picked up 300 rpm, I went to a Zinger Pro 17x8, getting 8000 rpm. I changed from a Bolly 16x10 to the Zinger 17x8 to slow the plane down.

Can't wait to get my RCS and the Laser in the air.

GoeKeli

My Feedback: (18)

Kenair, what lazer are you putting together?

Joe

kenair

My Feedback: (10)

The Lanier 1/4 scale Laser 200, 72" wingspan.

i_soar

My Feedback: (2)

Supertiger, For what its worth I do have my nose gear servo mounted right next to the ignition module. I used thin adhesive backed copper to encase the servo and ran copper braid for the length of the servo lead and attached it to the servo shield.

No glitching, rock solid. If you do need to have one of the bad mounting situations, this may be a fall back to make everything work OK.

John Hayes

supertiger

well after all it did turn out to be the location of the ignition battery. after moving it up front with ignition box the glitch is gone. but now i have to add more tail weight to offset the new location of the battery. thanks everyone for you help.

krayzc-RCU

My Feedback: (31)

supertiger when is the big fly day what prop r u running keep us posted as i need a project for the 1.4 as its coming off it present home......

GoeKeli

My Feedback: (18)

Great to hear Supertiger! That is awesome. When will you get to fly it? I called RCS today and Andrea said my engine was next to be fixed. Keep us posted when you fly it and like Krazyc said, what prop are you going to try? I was hoping to keep the LG from the kit even if it needed a bungie or something.

Joe

Mike Dooley/RCS

A small hose clamp around the base of the plug cap to eliminate any movement on the spark plug works wonders. A very small amount of dielectric grease also would help.
Thanks,
Mike Dooley
RC Showcase

supertiger

I'm going to fly it this Sunday using a APC17x8 prop.