Wheelpants may have problems if flying from
grass fields.
Instructions skip around, need more
organized sequence
Hardware identification page would help new
pilots identify hardware
Paint color of the cabin slightly off from
covering
It
seems to be an almost universal constant in the RC flying
world. Almost as soon as a new pilot starts training with
their trainer they will start looking for their next,
otherwise known as the 2nd, plane. I've never been quite
sure why this happens. Maybe it's just the excitement
of learning to fly, or maybe it's because they want to
fly something besides that "clunky ole trainer".
There are many planes out there that are considered "second
planes", some of which have become almost an industry
standard. Great Planes has just released another plane
aimed at that "2nd plane" pilot which just might
rise to the top of the list of 2nd planes out there. That
plane is the Cherokee Sport Scale ARF. On Great Planes'
website they describe the Cherokee as:
"You've
mastered your basic trainer. Now step up to sport
scale!"
The Cherokee ARF is a great step up from your basic
trainer - and one of the few realistic sport-scale
alternatives for low-wing flight training. Its fast
4-6 hour assembly and steady performance provide the
right foundation for success, complemented by quality
wood and fiberglass construction plus the freedom
to use glow or electric power.
Ideal
for everyday sport flying and aerobatics - perform
loops, rolls, inverted flight, stall turns and more!
Bolt-on
wing and tail simplify assembly and transport.
Operate
the included flaps with a 5-channel radio for even
greater realism and flight control.
Tricycle
landing gear provides positive handling on grass
or pavement."
The
Cherokee is a 40 sized plane that has been designed
from the ground up for either glow or electric power.
It's been engineered to help reduce the time from
opening the box to the flight line in order to get
the pilot airborne quickly and easily.
I
first saw this plane at the Weak Signals Show in Toledo
this year and I have to admit that it really caught
my eye. I've always liked the lines of a Cherokee and
think that it's a very good looking airplane, but something
about the Great Planes model really made me want it.
Please don't ask me to explain what it was about it
because I'm not really sure myself. As an instructor
I am regularly asked for advice on 2nd planes, so I
really wanted to get my hands on the Cherokee so that
I could know if it really was a good 2nd plane or not.
So I shot an email off to the "RCU review meister"
requesting this review. I was pretty excited when I
found out that I was getting it, and felt a bit like
a kid at Christmas time waiting for the "Big Brown
Airplane Truck" to arrive.
So, let's dive on in and see what the Great Planes Cherokee
40 ARF has to offer.........
Great Planes Cherokee Sport Scale ARF
Specifications Price:
$159.99
Stock Number: GPMA1033 Wingspan: 60 in (1520 mm) Wing Area: 606 sq in (39 sq dm) Weight: 6.75-7.25 lb (3.1-3.3 kg) Wing Loading: 26-28 oz/ft sq in (79-85 g/sq dm) Length: 46 in (1170 mm) Requires: 4+ channel radio system (5-channel
required for operational flaps) w/4-7 standard servos Electric Power Requirements:
ElectriFly RimFire 42-50-800 Out-runner Brushless Motor
(GPMG4700);
ElectriFly Silver Series SS-60 Brushless Electronic Speed
Control (GPMM1850); 18.5V 3200mAh LiPo battery (GPMP0622
and
GPMP0623); propeller (10x5E or 11x5.5E) Glow Power Requirements: 2-stroke .40-.46 cu
(7-7.5cc) or 4-stroke .52-.56 cu in (8.5-9.2cc) engine
Includes
Pre-built and covered
wings
Fuselage and tail
assemblies
Pushrods
Pre-bent main and nose
gear
Wheels
Wheel pants
Cowl
Engine mount
Fuel tank
Wood servo trays
Spinner
Aluminum joiner tube
Pilot figure
Decal sheet
Hardware package
Photo-illustrated
instructions
Items needed to
complete the Cherokee:
Engine:.40-.46 (7 - 7.5cc)
2-stroke
OR .52 - .56 (8.5 - 9.2cc) 4-stroke
OR 42-50-800kV brushless outrunner electric motor
Muffler:: Pitts
style if installing a two-stroke glow engine
Radio: 4-Channel
minimum with mixing capability preferred
Servos: 4 minimum
standard size and torque 44 oz.-in.(3.2 kg-cm)
Operational flaps require two additional servos
Throttle for glow engine requires additional servo
Servo Extension: Two 9"
(229mm) for aileron servos
Y-Harness: 2, 1
each for ailerons and flaps
Misc. Items: Glow
plug, 1/4" foam rubber padding, medium fuel tubing,
fuel filter, propeller, based on engine selection.
Actual Flying Weight:
6 lbs 6 oz. Engine Used:
OS 55AX ABL Muffler User: Slimline Pitts Muffler (Slimline
#3218)
Radio Used: Futaba T9CAP Channels Used: 5 total - Ailerons,
elevator, throttle, rudder, and flaps. Servos Used:
Futaba S3003 Standard Servo,
2 ea ailerons, 1 elevator, 1 rudder, 1 throttle, and 2 ea.
Flaps Prop Used:
APC 12x7 sport propeller
Unpacking The Box
The box for the Great Planes Cherokee ARF is
very nicely designed and is sure to catch some eyes as it sits
on the shelf. The box goes a long way to letting you know what
is in the box, and what you are going to need in order to
complete the plane. Opening the box reveals several of the
major components on the top. Everything is taped into place so
that it can't shift and damage the components. Emptying the
box gives you all of the major components, which are all in
individual plastic wrappings.
All of the smaller components are also
sealed in plastic. The interior of the fuselage is very
spacious for a 40-sized plane, which will make it easier for
the modeler to set up the plane and get it ready to fly. As
the components are removed it's easy to see that Great Planes
has put a lot of thought into making this plane easy for newer
pilots to set up. Touches such as the canopy assembly show
this quite well. The cockpit for the Cherokee comes assembled
with a pilot figure already in place. I will admit that I was
a little disappointed with the canopy. The color of the paint
for it was a bit lighter than the covering, which caused a
noticeable mismatch when the canopy is installed.
Further examination shows more of these
touches. The Cherokee comes out of the box with all of the
control surfaces pre-hinged, meaning the pilot doesn't have to
deal with it. The quality of the hinge line really impressed
me, as the gap in the hinge line was almost non-existent. The
Cherokee comes with fiberglass cowl that sports a very
high quality paint job. The paint does match the covering of
the plane.
The final picture shows what is needed to complete the
assembly of the GP Cherokee. I am setting the Cherokee up for
glow power and I was provided an OS 55AX with the plane. A
total of 7 servos are needed if the plane is set up with
functional flaps, 5 servos are needed if the flaps are fixed
into a non-operation position. Y-harnesses, a Pitts Muffler,
and a prop round out what are needed to get the Cherokee in
the air.
The Manual
Great Planes has a history of producing some
of the better manuals available on the market. The manual for
the Cherokee is no exception to this. The manual is very well
written with all steps explained in a clear and concise
manner. There are plenty of pictures and illustrations
provided to help a person understand what needs to be done.
The manual provides a "check box" so that the modeler can
check off each step as they are completed. At the beginning of
the manual several lists are provided that identify all the
materials and tools that are going to be needed to complete
the plane. The manual also has a very good section at the end
of the manual explaining the proper setup of the plane. A
pilot moving to their second plane should have no problems
with assembling the plane when following the instructions
provided in this manual.
Even though the manual is well above "par"
for the industry, I do feel that there are several things that
could be improved upon with the manual. Please understand that
these items will not keep the plane from being assembled or
cause mistakes in the assembly, but rather I think these items
would be an improvement considering the target audience being
newer pilots. The items that I would like to see improved are:
A hardware identification page would help
to identify the smaller screws and bolts needed for each step.
For newer pilots with little experience in the hobby it can be
very easy to select the wrong screw or bolt in a step. An
identification page would help to prevent this from happening.
Each major step in the assembly would
benefit with a listing of the parts and tools needed for that
step. Once again, considering that this plane is intended for
newer pilots and helping them to collect the correct parts and
tools needed before they start each major step would help ease
the assembly. This recommendation really goes hand in hand
with the previous recommendation.
The order of the steps could have been laid
out better. For instance; when working on the
engine/motor installation the instructions switch to
installing the landing gear and then continue on with the
installation of the nose gear and engine cowl. It would have
made more sense to completely finish installation of the
engine area and then move on to the landing gear, which should
have been done while working on the wing. Following the
instruction manual will require most to remove the fuselage
from their work area, place the wing on the work area, and
then have to swap them back out to continue, which can be
bothersome. Another example of this is the installation of the
tail assembly. The instructions call for installing the tail
feathers early in the assembly, where they can be banged and
bumped while working on other areas of the fuselage like the
engine and servos. It would have made more sense to finish the
rest of the fuselage setup and then install the tail feathers
last. Since the tail assembly is bolted on instead of glued on
it is very easy to accomplish this step later in the assembly.
Removing Wrinkles
From Covering
The covering job on the Great Planes Cherokee is
outstanding, but like just about any other ARF out there wrinkles
can occur during the shipping of the plane. Some time will need to
be spent to remove the wrinkles from the plane. A covering iron at a
minimum is needed for this, and at best a heat gun and trim iron as
well would help in this process. The first step here should be to go
over the edges of the covering and all seals between coverings. This
is done so that it won't pull loose as the covering shrinks in the
middle. After hitting the edges go over the area with the heat gun.
This will accomplish two things. First it show where the covering
isn't adhered to the wood underneath. And second, it will stretch
out the covering in preparation to sealing it back down to the wood
underneath. Once this is done go over the area with a covering iron
with a hot sock on it. This will seal the covering back down to the
wood structure of the plane.
For the Cherokee it took me about 30 minutes to go over the entire
plane and get all the wrinkles out of the plane.
As reviewers occasionally we will receive new products to try
out with our reviews. Some of them are ok, some are good, and
some are great!! Recently I received one that is great, and
I'd like to share it with you.
It's hard to imagine something new in the
world of epoxy that would be exciting. I mean, come on - it's
just epoxy. Right? Not so here?
Newton Supply Company in
Miami, Florida has released a new line of epoxy based
adhesives that really do make a difference. I received 3 types
of adhesive from them - Model Matrix, Fast Set, and a
30-minute epoxy.
For the Cherokee I used the 30-minute epoxy,
and would like to share with you what I thought of it. The
first thing you will notice is that the epoxy doesn't come in
bottles, but rather it comes in two squat jars. The epoxy
still comes in an "A" and a "B" jar like all other epoxies.
But opening the jars reveals something a little different. One
part is thick with a "Vasoline" type consistency and the other
part being a very thick liquid. The epoxy is mixed in a 50-50
mixture ratio just like most other epoxies. A hobby stick
(a.k.a. popsicle stick) makes it an easy step to measure out a
small "blob" of each part of the epoxy. The two types are
mixed together and applied like most other epoxies.
So if Epo-Grip is "like most other epoxies"
why is it worth talking about? Mainly because of the paste
like consistency of the epoxy. When mixed together the epoxy
does not "run" like more liquid epoxy. So this means that you
can put the epoxies in places like joint filets, gaps, or on a
wing joiner and the epoxy will stay right where you put it -
and not run and drip out of position. Something that all
modelers have experienced at least once. Also, the Epo-grip is
VERY easy to measure out and get the right amount of epoxy
mixed for the job you are doing. I have always had a hard time
with epoxies in bottles in that I usually made up way more
epoxy than I needed, and wound up wasting epoxy. With the Epo-Grip
I was able to get the amount I needed, and not waste epoxy.
To sum it all up, Epo-grip had found a
permanent place on my building table. I really like the
results I got from the product and I will definitely use it
from now on.
Ailerons and Flaps
There are many things that Great Planes has done to make this plane
easy to assemble for the newer pilot. One of the most notable of
these is the fact that all of the control surfaces are pre-hinged.
Ailerons, flaps, elevator, and the rudder are all in place with the
hinges installed as the plane comes out of the box. This will
greatly reduce the amount of assembly time needed to get the
Cherokee in the air. Although these surfaces are pre-hinged, it
would be wise to double check to ensure that they are secure and
properly assembled. On each control surface give them a good tug to
ensure that the hinges are indeed secure.
The first step in assembling the GP Cherokee is to build the aileron
and flap mounts. An interesting side note on the ease of putting
this plane together is that these two steps are the only place on
the plane that epoxy will be needed. The servos for these controls
are inside the wings and mounted on the underside of the access
hatches for each servo. The mounts are built by using epoxy to glue
mounting blocks to the underside of each hatch. Normally when
building such mounts the modeler will need to use the servo in order
to mark the location for each block. But for the Cherokee this isn't
necessary as Great Planes has marked each hatch with the location
for each block. It's a very simple matter to glue each block in
place using 30-minute epoxy, ensuring that the grain on each block
runs perpendicular to the grain in the hatch.
Attach a 9" servo extension to each aileron servo and use
heat shrink tubing to secure the connectors together. Position
the servos on each mount with the servo arm centered in the
cutout on the servo hatch. The instructions call for providing
a 3/64" gap between the servo and the hatch in order to
isolate the servo from the vibrations from the engine. Instead
of trying to measure 3/64" I found it easier to simply place a
small metal ruler between the servo and the hatch when marking
the location for each servo. A pilot hole is drilled for each
servo mounting screw. Use a
mounting screw to cut threads in each pilot hole and then harden the
threads using thin CA. Mount each servo to the hatch using servo
mounting screws. I prefer to use the socket head servo screws from
www.microfasteners.com for mounting servos.
With servo and hatch mounted route the servo leads out through
the hole in the top of the wing panel. A pull string is
provided for each servo to aid in guiding the servo lead
through the wing panel. Label each servo lead so that they
don't get mixed up when mounting the wing on the fuselage.
Place each servo hatch in position on the wing. The mounting holes
are created in the same manner as we did the mounting holes for the
servo. Each hatch is secured in place by a #2 x 3/8" self tapping
screw. The pushrods are built by screwing a nylon clevis 20 turns on
a 4" pushrod, and then sliding a silicon clevis retainer on to
the clevis, which is then connected to a control horn.
For each
control horn location on the ailerons and flaps there is an embedded
piece of plywood to mount the control horns to. If you look at the
control surfaces at an angle you will be able to see these embedded
pieces. It's important to mount the control horns in the plywood
pieces in order to not have them pull out in flight. Line up the
pushrod with the servo arm on the servo and place it on the control
surface with the holes of the control arm in line with the hinge
line of the control surface. Mark the location of the control arm
holes and remove the control arm. Using a 1/16" drill bit, drill
pilot holes for the mounting screws. It's very important to not
drill completely through the aileron or flap. This differs from the way
many other control horns are mounted with a backplate and screws
completely through the control surface. The Cherokee uses
self-tapping screws in plywood to secure the control horns in place.
The holes are prepared in the same manner as the servo mounts were
done. Once the holes are prepared mount the control horns for the
control surface.
Connect the servo to the receiver and with the
radio on center the servo. I use two clamps and two hobby sticks to
hold the control surface in the neutral position while marking the
pushrod. Mark the pushrod where it meets the outer hole on the servo
arm. Place a 90° at this mark and then place the servo arm on the
bent pushrod. Install a nylon FasLink on the pushrod and snap it on
to the pushrod to secure it. Cut the pushrod approximately 1/16"
below the nylon FasLink.
When installing the flap servos ensure that the position of both
servo arms are the same. This is done to ensure that the flaps are
in the same position and have the same throw when the servos are
installed in the plane.
On my Cherokee I set up the flaps to work, but for those who do not
wish to do this Great Planes has included the option to set the
flaps to a fixed position. Included with the plane are two wooden
strips that are used to lock the flaps in the "up" position. These
strips are glued into place on the flaps and the wing on the
underside of the wing using thin CA. If the plane is setup without working flaps the modeler
will need 5 servos for the plane, instead of 7 needed when flaps
are used.
Installing tail surfaces
One thing that causes many modelers problems when assembling many
ARF's is setting and attaching the tail surfaces. For newer pilots
just getting started in the hobby this can be a very intimidating
process, and can lead to problems with the performance of the plane
if done incorrectly. To avoid this Great Planes has engineered the
Cherokee so that the tail structure is assembled by simply bolting
the components together.
The tail surfaces are attached to the fuselage with 3 6-32 x 1"
socket head screws. The horizontal stabilizer has 3 holes
pre-drilled in it for the bolt holes to pass through. The vertical
stabilizer assembly also has the mounting holes pre-drilled. To
install the tail structures, first place the horizontal stabilizer in
place in the saddle of the fuselage, and then place the vertical
stabilizer assembly on top of that. There is a groove in the
fuselage provided for the forward part of the vertical stabilizer
fin. Ensure that the forward portion of the vertical stabilizer is
firmly seated in this groove before bolting the tail structure to
the fuselage. With tail structure in place secure the assembly by
installing the 3 6-32 x 1" socket head screws, make sure to apply
thread lock compound to the bolts before inserting them into the
fuselage.
Provided with the plane are small sections of both the red and white
covering used on the plane. Use the red covering to seal over the
bolt holes for the tail structure. And that is it. That's how easy
the tail surfaces are to install!
With the tail surfaces in place it's time to install and set up the
servos and pushrods for the elevator and rudder. To mark the
location for the control horns on the control surfaces a 36" pushrod
is inserted into each pushrod tube. This can be used to locate the
position for each control horn, and mark the location for the mounting
holes. Unlike the ailerons and flaps that were mounted into hard
wood in the control surface, the elevator and rudder control horns
are mounted in the more traditional method of using machine screws
through the control surface and into backplates on the other side of
the surface. The mounting holes are drilled through the control
surface with a 3/32" drill bit and the wood around the hole is
hardened with thin CA. The control horn is set in place and 2 2-56 x
1/2" machine screws are inserted through the control surface and
then screwed into the backplate on the opposite side of the surface.
The control horns for both the elevator and rudder are done in the
same manner.
Tail pushrods and servos
When installing the tail servos the rudder servo is placed first and
needs to be placed to the outside of the servo mounting tray inside
the fuselage. With the fuselage upside down the servo will be placed
to the right side of the servo tray. Before mounting the servo two
arms are cut off the servo arm leaving two arms that form a straight
line. One end of the servo arm needs to be enlarged with a 5/64"
drill bit, and on the other side of the arm the second inner hole
needs to be enlarged. Plug the servo into the appropriate channel on the receiver and turn it on
to center the servo and mount the servo arm so that it is perpendicular
to the servo. To position the servo in the servo tray insert the
pushrod into the pushrod sleeve and place the servo in the tray so
that the outer hole on the servo arm lines up with the pushrod. Mark
the location of the servo mounting holes and prepare them in the
same manner as the servos mounted in the wings earlier, and then
mount the servo in the servo tray. With the rudder servo in place
the elevator servo is mounted next. Cut 3 arms off of a 4 arm servo
arm and enlarge the outer hole in the remaining arm with a 5/64"
drill bit, and then place the servo in the servo tray so that there
is 1/4" distance between the servo arm for the rudder servo and the
elevator servo. Mark and prepare the servo mounting holes as before,
and then mount the elevator servo in the servo tray.
To finish the pushrod installation start by installing each
pushrod in the sleeves and connect the clevis on each end to
the control horns mounted on the rudder and elevator. Connect
both servos to the receiver and turn the radio on to ensure
that the servos are centered. Mark each pushrod at the center
of the mounting hole in the servo arms. Bend each pushrod 90° down at the mark. Insert the
bent pushrod into the servo arms in the outer holes and slide a
nylon FasLink on the underside of the servo arm, and secure by
snapping onto the pushrods. Cut off the remaining pushrod
approximately 1/16" below the nylon FasLink. This will complete the
installation of the servos and tail pushrods.
Engine installation
The Great Planes Cherokee ARF can be set up and flown with either a
glow engine or with electric power. The modeler will need to
purchase a medium size brushless motor mount (GPMG1255)
if they choose a brushless power system. This is not included with
the plane. For the review an OS 55AX glow engine was provided with
the plane, and that is the installation that I will be covering
here.
The first step in installing the engine is to assemble and install
the fuel tank. The fuel tank included with the plane is a 14.2 oz
(420 ml) tank with a standard rubber stopper assembly. The 14.2 oz
tank is actually huge for this size of plane and should provide
pilots with more than enough fuel for even their longest flights.
Since the plane includes a full cowl a normal 2-line fuel system
would be difficult to use in this setup. Along these lines the GP
Cherokee includes all the parts needed to set up a 3 line fuel
system. The parts included will allow one fuel pickup line that runs
from the fuel tank to the fuel intake on the engine, one vent line
from the muffler to the fuel tank to provide tank pressure, and a
third line used to fuel and de-fuel the plane. A metal clunk is
provided for both the fuel pickup line and the fill line in order to
keep the fuel lines inside of the tank submerged in the fuel.
To assemble the tank first start with the stopper assembly. The
rubber stopper consists of the stopper, two metal plates, and a
machine screw. The plates are placed on either side of the stopper
and the screw is run through the stopper and screwed into the back
plate. When the screw is tightened the plates will squeeze the
stopper together which will expand it to seal against the neck of
the tank. Included with the tank are 3 aluminum tubes that will be
inserted into the rubber stopper. One of the three aluminum tubes is
longer than the other two and will be used for the vent line. The
fill and pickup line tubes should be inserted so that they are
straight through the rubber stopper. The vent tube is inserted
through the stopper and then bent upwards so that it is positioned
at the top of the fuel tank. Use the silicon fuel tubing and
two metal clunks are provided with the tank. One of each is placed
on the fill and pickup lines. The lines need to be cut so that the
clunks sit approximately 1/8" from the back of the fuel tank when
the tank is assembled. They need to move freely when the tank is
inverted in order to allow the clunks to stay in the fuel within the
tank when the plane is inverted. When satisfied with the setup of
the fuel lines insert the stopper and tighten it down to seal it
against the neck of the fuel tank, but be careful to not
over-tighten it as it could split the fuel tank.
The fuel tank is secured to the tank tray strip with hook and loop type
fastener strips. Use 12" long hook and loop straps from the included
hook and loop material by overlapping the mating ends of each side
by approximately 2". Insert the straps into the slots in the plywood
fuel tank tray. The fuel tank tray is secured to the fuselage by
drilling two holes through the tray into the hardwood mounting
blocks located underneath it and mounting the tank tray using two #2
x 1/2" self tapping screws. With the tank tray secured to the
fuselage place a piece of 1/4" foam rubber (not included) on the
floor of the tray and place the fuel tank on top of the foam rubber.
Position the tank so that the stopper assembly is securely
positioned in the hole cut in the firewall. Secure the tank with the
hook and loop fastener strips. I have found that it helps to label
each tube in the stopper assembly in order to not mix them up later
on. Attach approximately 6" of fuel tubing on each outlet tube in
the stopper assembly.
The included engine mount is
the standard mount used by Great Planes and is adjustable
in order to accommodate many different engine sizes. The
blind nuts for the engine mount are already in place on
the backside of the firewall. Install the engine mount
with four 6-32 x 3/4" socket head screws, four #6 flat
washers, four #6 lock washers.
Be sure to use threadlock
compound on the screws before installing them.
The engine mount needs to be
placed so that the head of the engine is placed on the
right side of the fuselage. Before tightening the screws
make sure that the engine rails are spaced to fit the
mounting lugs of the engine you will be using.
Increase displacement
in your 40-size model the easy way: just drop in a
55AX engine! You'll enjoy more horsepower for swinging
bigger props - which means improved 3D, precision and
sport flying. Best of all, there's no modifications
required!
Mounts directly into the bolt
pattern for a 46AX.
A diagonally-placed needle
eliminates the need for a remote needle valve.The
5-sided, angular head design looks great and
significantly increases surface area for better
cooling.
Features
Same mounting dimensions as the O.S. Max .46 AX
Advanced Bi-Metallic Liner process uses a double
layer of plating material rather than one thick
layer. This helps the metal bond to the cylinder and
makes the plating more durable. Also, the plating
process is more consistent, resulting in a more
precise fit between piston and sleeve for better
compression and longer life.
Angular head design offers increased surface
area for better cooling
The engine needs to be placed so that the front of the engine drive
washer is located 4-15/16" from the firewall. This can be a bit
tricky to measure at times, so I have come up with this procedure
that really helps in locating engines. Place the spinner backplate
on to engine crankshaft and secure it flat against the engine
drive washer. This will give a more accurate way of measuring
the distance to the engine drive washer. Instead of using a ruler to
measure I prefer to cut a hobby stick (a.k.a. popsicle stick) to the
length required for the engine mounting, in this case 4-15/16". By
doing this it becomes a lot easier to properly measure the distance
required. With the engine in the proper location mark the mounting
holes on the engine mount. I find that a Hobbico Dead Center Hole
Locator is one of the easiest and most accurate ways of marking this.
Remove the engine from the mount and use a 6-32 tap and drill set to
create threads to mount the engine. Mount the engine in place using
4 6-32 x 3/4" socket head screws, 4 #6 flat washers, and 4 #6 lock
washers.
The throttle pushrod needs to be installed by drilling the
mounting holes in the firewall and the second fuselage former.
This hole needs to be drilled so that the throttle pushrod
clears the engine exhaust port. With the proper location
marked drill a 3/16" hole through the firewall, being careful
to not drill a hole in the fuel tank. A long drill bit will
make it easier to drill this hole with the engine in place. If
not the engine will need to be removed in order to drill this
hole. An additional 3/16" hole needs to be drilled in the
second fuselage former to allow the pushrod to line up with
the throttle servo. With both holes drilled place the pushrod
tube in the holes and cut it off so that the tube extends 1/4"
from the firewall and the second fuselage former. Before
placing the pushrod tube roughen the outsides of the tube with
220 grit sandpaper to allow the CA to get a better grip on the
tube. Secure the tube in place using medium or thick CA.
A nylon clevis is screwed on to the pushrod and connected
to the throttle arm on the carburetor. The pushrod may need to
be bent in order to clear the exhaust port on the engine.
Position the throttle servo in the tray so that it lines up
with the throttle pushrod and mount the servo in the same
manner as the other servos. A brass screw lock connector is
used on the throttle servo arm to attach the throttle pushrod.
Cut the throttle pushrod so that it extends approximately 1/4"
past the screw lock connector after the throttle linkage has
been properly adjusted to the throw of the carburetor.
Assemble and install the landing gear
For each landing gear slide the wheel pants over the landing
gear with both wheel collars and the wheel in place. Mark the
location for each mounting hole in the wheel collars and
remove everything from the landing gear. Use a rotary tool to
grind a flat spot on the axle at the marked locations. This
will help secure the wheel collar so that it does not slip.
Reinstall the wheel pant, wheel collars, and the wheel and
secure the wheel collars in place with 6-32 x 1/4" socket head
screws. Make sure to use threadlock compound on the screws.
To secure the wheel pants to the landing gear place a landing
gear strap over each gear leg and mark the mounting hole
locations. Make sure to place the strap so that it is lined up
with the wood blocks on the inside of the wheel pants. Drill
the mounting holes and prepare them with CA as previous holes
were done. Secure the wheelpants in place with the strap and 2
#4 x 3/8" self tapping screws.
Install the main landing gear into the wings in the slots
provided. Ensure that each landing gear is firmly seated into
the groove for each landing gear. The gear are secured in
place using two nylon straps that are placed over the landing
gear in each slot. Place the straps so that they are spaced
equally on the landing gear and position them so that they are
at 45° to the landing gear slot. Mark the location for each
mounting hole. Drill pilot holes using a 3/32" drill bit and
prepare the holes with thin CA in the same manner as
previously done. When the CA has dried install the nylon
straps in place using #4 x 1/2" self tapping screws.
The nose gear steering arm is assembled by inserting a 5/32"
wheel collar into the steering arm and securing with a 6-32 x
1/4" socket head screw. Insert a brass screw-lock connector
into the hole in the steering arm. Position the steering arm
on the front landing gear between the two steering mounting
blocks. Align the bottom of the steering mounting block with
the bottom of the fuselage and mark the location of the
mounting holes. Drill pilot holes with a 3/32" drill bit and
mount the front gear using #4 x 5/8" self tapping screws,
ensuring to use thin CA to harden the threads cut into the
wood.
Cut the threads off of a 12" pushrod and make a 90° bend
3/16" from one end of the pushrod. Insert the pushrod through
the pre-drilled holes in the 2nd former and the firewall, and
slide into the brass screw-lock connector in the steering arm.
Insert the bent end of the pushrod into the second inner hole
on the rudder servo and secure in place using a nylon FasLock.
Plug the rudder servo into the receiver and turn on the radio
in order to center the servo. Tighten the brass screw-lock
connector so that the front landing gear is centered.
Muffler
Install the muffler for your engine. If installing the stock
muffler on an engine it may be necessary to use a muffler
extension to extend the muffler far enough away from the
engine to clear the side of the fuselage. You may have to
carve off part of the lower corner of the fuselage in order
for the muffler to properly fit as well. Great Planes has
installed a block of wood on the inside of the fuselage to
facilitate carving this corner if needed. Additional white
Monokote is provided to recover this area if it has to be
carved.
I chose to use a Pitts style muffler on my Cherokee, but ran
into a small problem here. I had contacted Slimline Products
about their new "Q" line of mufflers and they sent me one to
use on the GP Cherokee. When I installed the muffler I found
that there was not enough room for the steering arm to move in
order to steer the plane. The 55AX engine I used sits very
far out on the motor mounts and smaller engines may have even
more problems with the steering arm when using the "Q" series
muffler. I have been in contact with Bill at Slimline and he
is working on a solution to this problem. I had been provided
a Slimline #3218 compact Pitts Muffler which was perfect for
this installation, but unfortunately this muffler has been
discontinued and may be very difficult, or impossible, to
find. Hopefully Slimline will come up with a solution quickly
as this plane really deserves the look of a Pitts Muffler. The
exhaust tubes of the Pitts Muffler do extend down a bit far,
but these can be cut off very easily to provide a very clean
look for the plane
Cut the vent line to fit on to the nipple on the muffler of
the engine.
Finishing the Model
Radio and battery installation
Make straps from the hook and loop fastener strips to mount
the receiver and receiver battery pack. Wrap the receiver and
battery pack with foam rubber and secure in the fuselage on
the tray provided. Connect all servo leads to their proper
slots on the receiver. Route the wiring so that it does not
interfere with the movement of the servo arms. I found that
using small zip ties help to organize and secure the wiring
inside the fuselage. Install the receiver switch and charging
jack on the side of the fuselage. The instructions for the
plane call for mounting the receiver switch on one side of the
fuselage and mounting the charging jack on the opposite side
of the fuselage. I chose to use a Great Planes switch mount so
that the switch and charging jack are located on the same side
of the fuselage.
A tube is provided in the fuselage for routing the antenna
wire inside of the receiver. Because of the length of the
antenna wire there would have been a large amount of wire
extending out the back of the fuselage, which I wanted to
avoid. Without doubling the wire on itself (which can reduce
the range of the radio) I ran the wire inside of the fuselage
a bit before running it down the antenna tube. Use a strain
relief (made from a cut-off servo arm) where the antenna wire
enters the tube to protect the wire from pulling out of the
receiver in the event of a crash or the wire being pulled
accidentally. A second strain relief is used where the wire
exits the fuselage to secure it in place.
Cowl, spinner, and propeller
One of the hardest things to master when putting a plane
together is cutting the holes in the cowl to accommodate the
engine and muffler. I can't even begin to count how many cowls
that I have butchered before I figured out a good way to do
this task, and as a matter of fact it was a Great Planes kit
where I learned this trick. Install the engine, muffler, and
anything else that will be placed under the cowl. Using heavy
paper or light cardboard, (I prefer to use manilla folders),
create strips that can be used for cutout templates. These
strips need to be long enough so that they can be taped to the
fuselage behind where the cowl will mount. Create cutouts in
the templates that fit the engine and anything else that will
protrude from the cowl. Fold the templates back so that they
are out of the way and remove the engine and anything else
that will come through the cowl.
Four hardwood blocks are provided for the cowl mounting
screws. Place a piece of tape on the fuselage next to these
mounting blocks and mark the location of the center of the
blocks. Place the cowl into position on the plane. Using the
previous marks as a reference mark the hole location 3/8" from
the edge of the cowl. Drill a 1/16" hole through the cowl and
into the hardwood block underneath. Remove the cowl and expand
the holes to 3/32" in the cowl. Mount the cowl using #2 x 1/2"
self tapping screws, making sure to use thin CA to harden the
threads cut into the hardwood. With the cowl in place extend
the templates back into place on the cowl and mark the
location for all cutouts on the cowl. When cutting these
cutouts in the cowl I found that placing masking tape over the
area to cut will help to prevent the fiberglass from chipping
or cracking as it is cut. I used a rotary tool with a cut off
wheel to rough cut the cowl, and then used a sanding drum to
finish shaping the cutouts. With the cutouts finished the
engine and anything else removed can now be reinstalled.
Included with the hardware is a stopper plug that is used
to plug the fuel fill line to keep fuel from leaking out.
The instructions direct the pilot to use this stopper plug in
the filler fuel line, and to leave the line hanging free from
the bottom of the plane. While there is nothing at all wrong
with that, I would have preferred to have a cleaner
installation where the fuel line is inside of the cowl. Better
yet, with a plane as nice as the Cherokee I would have liked
to see a fuel dot included with the kit. Luckily there is a
cheap and easy fix for this situation that uses the provided
plug. On a recent review of a Hobbico product (Top Flight
B-25) instructions were provided for building a mount so that
the plug sits cleanly in the cowl of the plane. Start with a 1/4"
block of balsa and brass tubing just large enough for the fuel
tubing to fit into. Drill a hole through the balsa block for
the brass tube. The brass tube should extend approximately
1/16" past the bottom of the block. Drill the same size hole
in the cowl where you want to mount the fuel fill. Using
30-minute epoxy glue the block into the cowl where you drilled
your hole.
And that's it. You know have a neat and easy fuel fill for
your plane. Extend your fill line through the hole and place
the plug into the fuel line. Simply push the fuel line back
into the cowl and the plug in will "snap" into place.
Install the spinner backplate and install the propeller on the
engine crankshaft. If necessary, ream out the prop hole in
order to fit the shaft of the engine. Install the front
portion of the spinner using the screws provided with the
spinner. Ensure that the prop does not touch the spinner in
any portion of the prop cutouts. If it does touch remove the
spinner cone and enlarge the cutouts.
Mounting the wing and canopy
The Cherokee comes with a two piece wing that is not glued
together, meaning it can be disassembled for easier
transportation. The wing is joined by using an aluminum wing
tube at the spar of the wing and a small anti-rotation pin
located towards the trailing edge of the wing. Included with
my plane was a small addendum calling for using a nylon strap
to hold the wing halves together. This is installed with two
#2 self tapping screws placed in the pre-drilled holes in the
wing. Even with the strap in place it is easy to disassemble
the wing into two halves for transportation. To install the
wing on the fuselage place the two dowel rods at the front of
the wing into the holes in the #2 fuselage former. The wing is
secured by using the nylon 1/4-20 wing bolts.
The canopy of the Cherokee is secured in place by two wooden
dowels at the front of the canopy and two 4-40 x 5/8" machine screws and flat washers. It is recommended to use thin
CA to secure the washer to the screw so that it's not lost
when removing the canopy at the field, especially when using
electric power which will require removing the canopy every
flight to replace the battery. At this point I would recommend
using thin CA on the front dowels on the canopy. As you will
read later in the review I had problems with these dowels. At
some point during the break-in of the engine one dowel
completely fell out and was lost, and the second dowel rod was
loose. Work some thin CA around the dowels now to ensure that
they are firmly secured to the canopy.
Apply the Decals
The provided decals are applied using the pictures on the box
and in the instructions as a guide for placement. While the
decals are self-sticking the instructions call for using a
mixture of liquid dishwashing soap and warm water to apply the
decals. I chose to use Windex for doing this. Using either
solution will allow you to position the decal in place easier
than simply applying the decal to the plane. To apply the
decals place the solution on the location where the decal will
be applied. Position the decal and use a squeegee (scrap balsa
wood works well) to squeeze the solution from underneath the
decal. Use a dry paper towel to remove and remaining solution.
Preparing the model to fly
Control Throws
These are the recommended control surface throws:
Control Throws:
High Rate
Low Rate
Elevator:
1/2" [13mm] 21 deg up
3/8" [9.5mm] 16 deg up
1/2" [13mm] 21 deg down
3/8" [9.5mm] 16 deg down
Rudder:
1-1/4" [32mm] 34 deg right
5/8" [16mm] 17 deg right
1-1/4" [32mm] 34 deg left
5/8" [16mm] 17 deg left
Ailerons:
1" [25mm] 24 deg up
7/16" [11mm] 10 deg up
1" [25mm] 24 deg down
7/16" [11mm] 10 deg down
Flaps:
(Full) 9/16" [14mm] 24 deg
(1/2) 5/16" [8mm] 13 deg
Balancing the plane
The Cherokee should be initially balanced with the CG located
3-1/16" back from the leading edge of the wing. Since this is a low
wing plane it should be balanced upside down and with the fuel tank
empty. I used a Great Planes C.G. Machine to balance the plane with.
The plane required 1/2 oz of weight in the tail to balance the plane
at the required CG.
I have to admit that I was pretty excited about getting to
the field and flying the Cherokee. Unfortunately that
excitement turned to a bit a frustration at the field.
After taking the "Photo Shoot" pictures of the plane I
fired it up to get a trim flight in. But for some reason I
just couldn't get the engine to run correctly. I won't
bore everybody with the gory details of the
troubleshooting, but I did spend a good hour trying to
figure out what was wrong with the engine and why it
wouldn't run right. In the end I discovered that there was
something in the carburetor that was clogging it up. As I
was troubleshooting the engine problems I did notice one
other issue that I do need to address. One of the dowel
pins in the front of the canopy assembly was missing. I
know it was there when I assembled the plane, but
somewhere along the line it had worked itself out and was
lost. When I pulled the canopy off I noticed that the
remaining dowel pin was loose as well. I put a dab of
epoxy on it to secure it in place, and then I made a new
pin for the one that was gone.
But after
that bit of frustration worked out I took the plane up to
trim it out and get her ready to shoot flight video. With
the engine running well I flew her around a bit to make
sure the trims were good and then I brought her back in to
refuel for the video flights. With the plane ready to fly
for video I was a bit sad, as I knew that I wasn't going
to be at the controls this time around. It was my turn to
shoot video of the flight instead of flying. For this
flight I was switching places with my normal "video guy",
Paul Phillips, and I took the camera to film the flight.
Paul is an excellent pilot so I knew that the Cherokee was
in good hands for the flight.
Paul taxied the Cherokee out and pointed her down the
runway. As soon as he lifted the plane off the ground I
could tell that he was going to have some fun with her. At
first he circled the pattern a few times to get the feel
for the plane, and how she handled. Once he was
comfortable he started putting her through her paces. From
previous experiences I have learned that when shooting
video for a review it's important to get the takeoff and
landing on tape before getting "fancy" with flying the
plane. So after a few times around the field Paul put the
Cherokee into the landing pattern and settled in for a
landing. For the first landings he left the flaps up to
see how the Cherokee did. The plane has pretty clean lines
so it doesn't slow down right away when on approach. But
the plane comes in like it's riding on a wire, so coming
in a bit fast really wasn't a problem at all. I did notice
when the plane was rolling after touch down that it was a
bit sensitive to bumps in the runway. It wasn't a big
enough problem to worry about. Without coming to a stop he
opened the throttle and took back off. First up was a
roll. The Cherokee performed a very nice roll that was
almost axial, with just a hint of dropping the nose during
the roll. Pulling into a loop the plane tracked straight
and true through the loop and required no rudder inputs to
keep it tracking straight. Coming back around he pulled in
a vertical up line for a stall turn. At the top of the
climb the plane had plenty of rudder authority to bring
the tail around cleanly for a very nice stall turn. On the
next pass around the field Paul rolled inverted to see how
the plane would do. He indicated that the plane needed
just a slight touch of down elevator to keep the plane
flying level while inverted. While inverted Paul did an
aileron roll which did drop the nose just a bit. While
still inverted he pushed the Cherokee into an outside loop
and put the plane into a spin when it was on the backside
of the loop. The plane was very easy to spin and recovered
nicely when the controls were centered. Entering into
another spin he was able to center the controls, which
stopped the spin, and then reversed the direction of the
spin. Very nice for a little plane like the Cherokee. Paul
did make several approaches where he dropped the flaps to
get a feel for how the plane would respond. While it was
no surprise that the plane slowed down tremendously with
the flaps down, what was a surprise was that the plane did
not pitch up when lowering the flaps like a lot of planes
tend to do. The last thing we checked was the stall
characteristics of the plane. This plane has one of the
gentlest stalls that I have seen in a plane. When it
stalled it simply dropped the nose straightforward and
then started flying again. With a lot of the basics down I
told Paul to play around with it so that I could get more
tape of it flying. He was having so much fun flying it
that I managed to get a good solid 8 minutes of tape
before he brought it in. As he taxied back Paul indicated
that it was a great flying little plane and the smile on
his face backed up that claim!
After we finished up the flying I took the plane up myself
to get a good feel for how she flew. I put her through the
paces myself and I agree that Paul was completely
accurate; it was a fantastic flying little plane. In fact,
I was able to do something with this plane that has always
been a bit tricky for me to do. I've always had a little
bit of a problem doing inverted flat spins, but that
definitely wasn't the case here with this plane. When I
put it into an inverted flat spin I literally had my jaw
on the ground on how easy it would go into it. In fact,
someone on the ground mentioned that he was sure I was
going to spin it right into the ground as I let it go so
long. I admitted to him that I did let it go for a bit
longer than I should have, but I was so amazed at how easy
it was to do the spin that I really wanted to enjoy
watching it spin. When it was time to come out of the spin
I simple centered the sticks and the plane recovered with
no additional input needed from me. Wow! As I flew around
I did a LOT of low level passes over the runway with it
because I just love the lines of the plane. In the air it
just looks so graceful in the way that it flies. It looks
like it's doing exactly what it was made for: flying!!
I will be the first to admit that the 55AX might be a but
too much engine for this plane. I was able to fly the plane
around the field at 1/3 throttle and still put it through
basic aerobatic maneuvers with ease. A 46-sized engine
would be a great match for this plane, and it would even
do well with a 40.
Great Planes Cherokee
Flight Video
Small File (8.1 MB)
Great Planes
Cherokee Flight Video
Large File (18.4 MB)
It's a
bit odd that I put so much emphasis on the aerobatic qualities
of this plane since Great Planes advertises it as a good
second plane. And this is where this little plane really
impressed me. It is BOTH of these things rolled in to one
wrapper. For the person that is moving up to their second
plane the Cherokee is very gentle and flies in a very
predictable manner, meaning that it's not going to reach out
and bite a novice pilot. But when it's time to start doing
aerobatics the plane is going to reward the pilot by easily
performing what it's asked to do. But if a pilot gets into a
bit of trouble all he needs to do is level out the plane and
slow the throttle down, the Cherokee will calm down and fly
very easily which will give the pilot a bit of time to catch
his breath. And this is where this plane really shines in my
opinion. I think that any pilot moving up to the Cherokee will
find that it's going to serve them for a long time to come.
While I normally don't wind up keeping many planes that I
review, this little gem has found a permanent home in my
hanger. It's just a fun plane to fly!!
The OS 55AX had more than enough power for the Cherokee. For
most of my flying the throttle was set at 1/3-1/2 and I still
had plenty of power for flying. While the OS 55 pulled the
plane around the sky with authority, the plane would still fly
with plenty of power on a 46 sized engine. Although, those
that live at higher altitudes may want to stay with a larger
engine like the 55 to compensate for the elevation that they
fly at. The plane could be flown on a 40 sized engine as well,
although the plane would more than likely fly more scale like
and would not be as aerobatic as mine was with the 55. Overall
pilots will have a wide range of engines to choose from so
that they can power the plane to suit their flying style.
There were only a few small downsides to this plane in the way
it flies and handles. Because of the overall light weight of
the plane it does have a tendency to get bounced around a bit
in gust winds, although it's nothing too bad that can't be
handled. The plane is a little bit bouncy on the ground which
can be attributed to the short landing gear used on the plane.
This may be a bit of a problem on bumpy or rough runways.
Also, for grass fields pilots may have problems with the wheel
pants in place, but they can easily be removed if there are
problems with them. The instructions call for an assembly time
of 4-6 hours which I felt are a bit "ambitious", especially
for newer pilots with little experience at assembling a plane.
While Great Planes has gone a long way towards making this an
easy plane to get together and in the air, I think it may take
newer pilots a bit longer than 6 hours to get it together. But
it's still not going to take huge amounts of time to get it
together. I think a more conservative goal would be a weekend,
or several evenings to get the plane ready to fly.
Great Planes had really hit a home run with the Cherokee.
While they are marketing the plane towards pilots looking for
a second plane, this plane will appeal to a larger group of
pilots. More experienced pilots will appreciate the Cherokee
because it is a plane that is just flat out fun to fly. Since
it's a 40 sized plane a pilot can easily transport the plane
to the field and have it ready to fly in mere minutes, as
opposed to closer to an hour for larger aerobatic planes. Now
I'm not saying it's going to replace a pilot's 1/3 or 1/4 scale
aerobatic baby, but it will be a nice change of pace when a
pilot wants some fun flying in a short amount of time. But for
the new pilot is where this plane is truly a pot of gold find.
This is a plane that a new pilot can move up to as their "2nd"
plane and succeed in. It is gentle enough for that pilot to
take to the air after flying a trainer, but has the
capabilities to help a pilot increase his flying skills. And
the plane is capable of doing so much it's not a plane that a
pilot is going to grow tired of quickly. Rather this is a
plane that is sure to remain in a pilot's hangar for years.
It's just that good! Plus, the Cherokee just looks good. It's
sure to get a lot of attention at the field with this plane
because of it's good looks. For those newer pilots looking to
move up to a second, or third, plane I can't recommend the
Cherokee enough. This is a plane that you just can't miss out
on.
Great Planes Cherokee Sport Scale ARF
Great
Planes Model Distributors P.O. Box 9021
Champaign, IL 61826-9021
www.greatplanes.com
Product Used: Cherokee 40 ARF, Switch/charge jack
mount, Thin CA, Medium CA, Thick CA
OS
Engines Distributed
Exclusively in the U.S.A., Canada and Mexico by: Great Planes Model Distributors P.O. Box 9021
Champaign, IL 61826-9021 www.osengines.com
www.greatplanes.com
Product Used: OS 55AX ABL
Slimline Products PO Box 3295
Scottsdale, AZ 85271
Phone: 480-967-5053
Fax: 480-967-5030 www.slimlineproducts.com
Products used: Compact Pitts Muffler, #3218
Epo-Grip
Adhesives Newton
Supply Company Inc.
13953 SW 140 Street
Miami FL 33186
Phone: 1-800-888-2467 Website: http://www.epogrip.com Products Used: 30 minute epoxy
Yeah, I was really hoping to get a 4-stroke for this plane, but Hobbico sent me the OS 55 AX. If I had my druthers I think I would power it with the new OS 56 Surpass 4-stroke. That would be a sweet combo in my opinion.
Ken
I have a GP Cherokee on order now. I am planning on using a Saito .56 four stroke. It is a beautiful plane and I am looking forward to building and flying it.
The comments, observations and conclusions made in this review are solely with respect to the particular item the editor reviewed and may not apply generally to similar products by the manufacturer. We cannot be responsible for any manufacturer defects in workmanship or other deficiencies in products like the one featured in the review.
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