RCU Review: CCRC-Pro 40cc Engine Kit


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    Contributed by: Chris Batcheller | Published: January 2009 | Views: 53059 | email icon Email this Article | PDFpdf icon
    RCUniverse.com Review of CRRC Pro 40CC Gas Engine


    RC Universe Forums:
    batchelc
    Email: chris@nolapilot.com



    AGAPE Racing and Hobby, LLC
    9113 Minglewood LaneMechanicsville, VA 23116
    Jim Willis

    Phone: 804-550-9584
    agaperacingandhobby.com

    E-mail: jim@agaperacingandhobby.com



    • Economical Gas Engine
    • Easy break in and starting
    • Engine ran excellent with no carburetor adjustments

    • Metric size prop shaft requires a 10mm or 13/64 drill/bit or ream for propeller
    • Long exhaust stack makes the cowling cutout large

    CRRC Pro now offers the "worlds first engine kit". The kit comes full of individually wrapped parts. Once assembled, you will have a 40cc gas engine ready to tear up the sky. The advantage of the "kit engine" concept is that you are not paying for labor to assemble the engine, so you get more engine for your money.

    The kit comes with all the parts that you need to assemble the engine including some tools, sealant and anti-sieze! Assembling the engine is a fun project that will give you a better understanding to the internals of your model's engine.


    Displacement: 40cc
    Bore x Stroke: 40mm x 31mm
    Dry Weight: 1300g (2.87 lbs.)
    Carburetor: Walbro butterfly type w/pump
    Max Output: 3.95HP @ 7200 rpm
    Ignition: 4.8v - 6v DC-CDI
    Fuel: 93 plus octane (see note in text for oil mix ratio)
    Propeller: 18 X 10, 20 x 8, 20 x 10 (Two Blade Propeller)

    Assembly manual: http://www.crrcpro.com/GF40I-Manual%20En.htm



    Items Needed To Complete

    • Airframe
    • 4.8VDC - 6VDC 2200 mA Battery
    • Switch and Switch Mount
    • Engine Mount Standoffs
    • Propeller (See below for recommendations)
    • 14mm Combination Wrench or Socket
    • 17mm Combination Wrench or Socket (Propeller Nut)
    • 13/64 or 10mm Drill Bit or reamer (for Hole in Propeller)
    • Vice
    • Various hand tools (wrenches, sockets, hammer, see text)

    The engine comes packaged in a nice box. Opening the box reveals many individual packets. Most of the parts are individually bagged and labeled with part numbers. In some cases the parts are grouped and multiple parts are in one bag with multiple part numbers. The kit comes with a metric hex key and a spark plug socket. Jim at AGAPE Racing and Hobby also includes gasket sealer for the engine case and anti-sieze for the spark plug. The instructions come printed on large sheets of paper and include text and pictures. The instructions do reference the part numbers on the bag, so I found it helpful to spread all the parts out on a big table. This allowed me to quickly grab the part that I needed when building the engine.


    The first step is to clear your workbench and gather your tools! The CRRC Pro 40cc engine is assembled with a minimum of tools. You will need a 14mm and 17mm combination wrench and some screwdrivers, a hammer, a vice, some cotton swabs and a cleaner such as acetone or alcohol. A torque wrench is also recommended. The manufacturer even includes a hex wrench and a spark plug socket. AGAPE Hobbies also includes sealant gasket maker and anti-sieze with the kit.

    NOTE:
    The process described below is not intended to replace the manufacturers directions. Always follow the manufacturers directions.

    NOTE:
    As a rule of thumb, all fasteners should have a locking mechanism (lock washer or Loctite) because vibrations of the engine will loosen fasteners (and probably ruin your day of flying) without a locking mechanism.


    The first step is to assemble the crankshaft. Press the seal on and be sure to pay attention to the orientation. The propeller adapter presses onto the crankshaft and is held in place with a retaining shaft. Don't forget the lock washer. The manufacturer provides an extra jam nut so you can tighten the two nuts together and use the torque wrench to correctly tighten the threaded shaft onto the crankshaft.


    The rotating assembly goes together quickly. The instructions tell you to lubricate the bearing prior to installing it. The clips that hold the wrist pin in are easy to lose when installing, so be careful! It's best to use a hammer with plastic ends to avoid damaging the metal surfaces. Make sure you get the orientation of the piston right, there is an arrow on the top of the piston head. When installing the piston rings make sure that the orientation is correct and the open sides of the rings fit between the pin in the piston.


    Almost there! Time to install the rotating assembly into the cylinder and install the bottom of the crankcase. Use the acetone or alcohol to clean the surfaces that the sealant will touch and make sure they are dry before applying the sealant. Torque the bolts in the classic "X" pattern.

    Reading through some of the forums on RC Universe you will see a suggestion to use Loctite 603 on the bearings. The Loctite 603 is sold at auto part stores and will prevent the bearing from spinning in the case. If you use Loctite 603, rough the surfaces of the bearings with 200 grit sandpaper and clean them with brake cleaner. Use the Loctite sparingly, a few drops will do the job. I did not use the Loctite on this engine because it was not provided in the kit and I wanted to see if spinning bearings would be an issue. I have not had any issues so far in my testing.


    The carburetor and velocity stack install with 2 screws after you install the adapter tube. The picture shows what order the gaskets go in. Next you can install the tube from the carburetor to the crankcase.

    The anti-sieze is included for the spark plug threads. Don't get any on the electrode and as a rule of thumb try and keep the anti-sieze away from the last 1-2 threads. When installing spark plug, remember that it is threaded into aluminum, so don't overtorque it. I would recommend using the torque wrench any time that you reinstall the spark plug. When installing the crankshaft sensor the plastic plate can crack easy, so be careful not to overtorque the screws.


    All up weight came in at 43.9 oz. for the engine, 2.9 for the mount and 4.1 for the ignition module. I used a template to drill the mounting holes. Be sure to account for any side and down thrust that you may add, as that will change the ultimate location of the spinner and propeller in relation to your cowling.

    If you look at the picture of the electronic ignition module you will notice some fuel tubing between the ignition lead and the RPM sensor wire on the bottom of the module. I placed some tubing over the nut that holds the ignition module to the firewall to prevent chafing on either wire. You have to pay extra attention to vibration with a gas engine. You will also notice the throttle is nonconductive (plastic). This is an essential for a gas engine. I also have the ignition module battery as far forward as possible (minimum 6" from the radio gear) to minimize any interference issues.


    PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT

    AMSOIL is a manufacturer of oils for many applications. They are known for their high quality and excellent performance. The oil that was evaluated for this review was the Saber Synthetic 100:1 Two Stroke Oil. This product is designed to run at leaner ratios (100 parts gas to 1 part oil verses 50:1 or 25:1). This means less buildup and a cleaner running engine.

    The specifications can be found here: http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/atp.aspx

    MSDS for AMSOIL Saber 100:1 Two Stroke Oil: http://www.amsoil.com/msds/atp.pdf

    The oil that I used for the first few hours and the first flight of this engine was Homelite brand at a 50:1 mix ratio. This oil is a synthetic oil with fuel stabilizers and is sold in the big box home improvement stores where 2 stroke equipment (trimmers and chainsaws) are. I ran this blend with Exxon Brand 93 Octane gas at a 50:1 mix ratio. Follow the mix ratio that the oil recommends. If you run the engine at 25:1 to 35:1 with synthetic oil like the manufacturer recommends the engine will spit large amounts of excess oil out of the exhaust and the engine will be very hard to start.

    Here is what Jim from AGAPE Racing and Hobby recommends:

    "It is further recommended that you use a 100% synthetic 2-cycle oil, mixed in the correct proportion for both break-in and on-going operation. Amsoil Saber 100:1, for air cooled engines, is an excellent oil and is appropriate for most applications. It is advisable to use a richer mix for break-in and then the normal mix for on going operation. For example, using Amsoil Saber, the break-in ratio should be 50-60:1. For normal operation a ratio of 80:1 should work well. It is important to measure the oil carefully. Under no circumstances should the engine be run without the proper amount of 2-cycle oil in the fuel."

    Here is a side by side test of the Homelite Brand oil and the AMSOIL. Since the engine is still "breaking in", I followed Jim's recommendation of 50-60:1. These tests were conducted on the same day, same conditions with the same base fuel to keep variables to a minimum. Two fuel cans were used with Exxon 93 Octane Gas from the same pump. This test was done at 68 F temperature,30.04 in Hg pressure with 18x6-10, 18x10 and 20x6-10 Zinger Brand wood propellers. A digital pull-scale and a digital tachometer was used to take the measurements. The idle was adjusted on the first run and then was not moved for the duration of the tests. The fuel tank was completely emptied between tests.

    Homelite 50:1 Amsoil 60:1
    18x6 18x10 20x6-10 18x6 18x10 20x6-10
    Idle RPM 1700 2200 1800 2000 1800 1800
    Full Power Static RPM 7300 7000 6000 7300 7100 6100
    Thrust (lbs) 14.6 14.4 15.5 14.6 15.1 16.0

    I was a bit skeptical that there would be and differences in the data between the two oils. The results show that the AMSOIL gave consistently better performance with the 18x10 and 20x6-10 propellers and equal with the 18x6-10 propeller. When the engine is fully broken in and a 80:1 mixture is used I would expect the differences in the Homelite Brand and the Amsoil Brand to increase.

    The AMSOIL Saber 100:1 oil performed excellent during my testing. This oil has excellent lubricity and cleanliness properties to control friction and prevent wear, plug fouling, ring sticking and exhaust port blocking.

    Engine Break In
    All engines require a break in period to allows the internal engine parts to wear in correctly. The break in procedure for this engine is simple. The instructions tell you to run the engine for 5 minutes at low throttle, then stop and check for loose fasteners and components. Then to run the engine 4 times at 30 minutes each, allowing the engine to cool between each engine run. The two-hour break in period will also allow you to become familiar with the engine and see if there are any engine related problems (chafing, radio interference, etc.). I completed the break in at 50:1 oil/gas mix ratio with 93 octane gas. The engine will continue to break in as you fly it. Be sure to treat the engine carefully when flying by applying throttle gently and limit acrobatic maneuvers. You will probably need to lean the carburetor out after the first few flights. It is important not to run it rich for two long or you will wash away the carbon deposits that give the engine more power (buildup on the top of the piston increases compression ratio).



    The CRRC Pro 40cc engine was tested on a Cermark 1/4 Scale Pitts biplane. The all up weight came in at a bit over 12 lbs. Even with the smallest propeller the thrust to weight ratio was more than 1. Since the engine was still breaking in, I limited the flights to mild aerobatics and general pattern work.

    As you can see on the video I am using a heavy arc welders glove to start the engine. Starting the engine is not hard, but you do need to exercise caution around the propeller. Choke the carburetor and turn the ignition on. The choke is applied by closing the throttle and pulling the choke lever on the carburetor. Flip the propeller until the engine "pops". Then move the throttle to un-click the choke and flip the propeller until the engine starts. Above 70 degrees the engine would often start in 1-2 flips. When it was colder (like in the video) the engine would require 5-6 flips. If you don't flip the propeller hard enough when starting, it may start backwards. If that happens, shut the ignition off and restart the engine.

    The engine ran out of the box without any adjustments to the carburetor. After the break in I did adjust the throttle stop slightly. Depending on the propeller the engine will idle at 1700-2000 rpm. You can hear the engine start to "4-stroke" during some of the fly by's on the video. This is a sign that it is time to start leaning the carburetor out.

    The engine ran excellent in flight. If you are making the transition to gas power from glow power, you will like the reliability and ease of operation that the gas power gives you. There is no need to adjust needle valves each time you go to the field and the fuel is much more economical.

    Click Below to View the Videos:

    3.2 MB 24.4 MB







    I found the CRRC Pro 40 engine to be a great value and a reliable engine. Assembling the engine was easy and gave me first hand knowledge of the inner workings of this engine. I found this to be a great first gas engine experience as the support that I received from Jim at AGAPE Racing and Hobby was top notch.

    CRRC Pro 40 cc Engine and AMSOIL:

    AGAPE Racing and Hobby, LLC
    9113 Minglewood Lane
    Mechanicsville, VA 23116

    Jim Willis
    Phone: 804-550-9584
    www.agaperacingandhobby.com
    E-mail: jim@agaperacingandhobby.com

    Special Thanks to Jake Ordonez


    Comments on RCU Review: CCRC-Pro 40cc Engine Kit

    Posted by: I-fly-any-and-all on 01/19/2009
    Awesome! I recently acquired that same plane at a swap meet for $40 barely used! should fly great by looking at your videos!
    Posted by: Brokenprop on 01/20/2009
    The supplied instructions are very entertaining. Lots of fun to assemble.
    Posted by: dragnbye on 01/20/2009
    i love the idea of building it your self great job hope more catch on
    Posted by: JohnVH on 01/21/2009
    How much is it?
    Posted by: batchelc on 01/22/2009
    Contact Jim at www.agaperacingandhobby.com for pricing.
    Posted by: elderair on 01/31/2009
    Jim Willis at Agape is a great person to deal with and I can verify that this engine is a very nice and complete unit. Mine is assembled and bench ran teriffic and will be going on my 74" Extreme Flight Yak 54. Thanks Agape!
    Posted by: RichardGee on 02/17/2009
    Great article. I wish it had included the price.
    Posted by: RC-Deity on 02/17/2009

    Posted by: batchelc on 02/17/2009
    Too bad that I know Mr RC-Deity is actually an old co-worker who does not fly R/C airplanes at all. Have fun Jason!
    Posted by: mcadamsp on 02/18/2009
    Imagine that. You go to the website and it sends you to the ebay store that has no products but says there will be more on 02/19, but you can not find the price anywhere
    Page: 1 2 >
    The comments, observations and conclusions made in this review are solely with respect to the particular item the editor reviewed and may not apply generally to similar products by the manufacturer. We cannot be responsible for any manufacturer defects in workmanship or other deficiencies in products like the one featured in the review.

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