elevator and rudder installation used different techniques.
The elevator hinges fit into the pre-cut slots of the horizontal
stabilizer and were secured with thin CA. Remember to let the
thin CA soak into the hinges and dry without using any kicker.
Once dried, I wiped off the white residue with some debonder.
rudder used three pin hinges that were first cut to length and
then glued to the rudder only. Once dried, I glued the rudder
to the vertical stabilizer using V-poxy
from Bob Violet Models. The thicker aircraft-grade epoxy doesn't
run so I did not need to coat the hinge joints with petroleum
jelly. However, it is still a good idea to use some petroleum
jelly just in case the glue gets on the hinge.
tail feathers looked great and I really think this is a beautiful
looking model by E-flite!
JR Sport MC35
Micro Servo was used for the two elevator halves. Note that
holes are provided in the fuselage to allow a screwdriver to
access the servo screws closest to the side.
installing the control rods per the manual, I noticed some binding
on one side so I cleaned the metal rods and sprayed some silicone
on them before pushing them through the nylon tubes.
control horns were CA'ed into position after first cutting away
some of the covering underneath. The elevators seemed to work
fine but I had a slight hesitation on one side so I may revisit
this area before test flying the Sabre.
rudder servo and linkage installation used a similar technique
to the elevator. I used an E-flite S75
sub-micro servo per the manual. Again, I had more resistance
on the control rod than desired so I coated the metal with some
there was a small amount of slop in my servo, the rudder did
not return perfectly to center from one direction. I reduced
some of this by gluing the end of the nylon tube to the wood
support. The support hole was slotted and allowed the nylon
tube to move until it was glued.
ended up replacing the S75 servo with a more capable JR DS285
digital servo which eliminated the centering issue.
landing gear installation went without issue. The wing holes
were pre-drilled to install the latches using the supplied screws.
The wheels spun freely on the axles and the mains fit well in
the notches under the wings. The steerable nosewheel, fuselage
mount, and bellcrank all seemed solid and turned nicely.
I'm not a fan of fixed gear during flight, the F-86 Sabre really
started to look nice on the ground! Perhaps after the initial
test flights off pavement, the gear mains can be replaced with
tanks for grass landings and the nosewheel can be replaced with
a hook for a mini-bungee launch.
steering servo and linkage were very easy to install using the
pre-bent rod and included servo mount. I really like the simple
design of these sub-micro servo mounts included in the F-86
of using the recommended 4th hole from the servo center of the
arm, I used the 2nd hole due to several reports of high gain
on the steering control. I still had plenty of nose wheel turning
when using the 2nd hole and it allowed the rod to run parallel
with the fuselage bottom.
E-flite manual offers two positions to mount the 60-amp Pro
Brushless ESC. When I saw the bottom mount scheme for a cooler
running ESC in a hot environment, I jumped at that option. One
of the key areas for keeping an EDF power system running well
is to keep the ESC cool.
Dremel tool makes quick work of this task. I simply traced the
ESC on the bottom of the fuselage and cut the proper size opening.
I'll likely hold the ESC in place with a hook and loop strap
also see no need for an On/Off switch in small EDF applications.
Simply plugging the battery into the ESC is sufficient. The
E-flite 60-amp Pro Brushless ESC makes it easy by providing
a fail-safe mode of operation. If the switch is open, the ESC
is on. I simply cut the switch wire off to about 1" in
length and covered the end with a piece of shrink wrap.
and Intake Tube Mounting:
Spektrum AR6200 receivers were placed in the locations and orientations
per the manual using the supplied hook and loop material. I
also secured the ESC in place using some of the supplied hook
and loop material and my own 3M Velcro black strap. Additionally,
I glued the four corners of the ESC to the fiberglass bottom
with small dabs of epoxy that could be broken away, if needed.
fiberglass intake tube was fitted into position after first
surrounding the center with a hook and loop strap. The strap
is put on first so that it doesn't accidentally get wrapped
around the steering rod later on.
V 15 DF Assembly:
E-flite Delta V 15 DF assembled very easily. Two screws hold
the BL15 brushless motor in place and another two screws hold
the fan fairing. Thread locker was used on all four screws.
The rotor is held in place with a collet adapter. I used an
Allen wrench to tighten the spinner while holding the rotor
30 of the manual was a bit confusing because step 3 states,
"Note that the fairing faces to the bottom of the fan unit.",
and earlier it was stated in a diagram that the fan bottom goes
to the fuselage top. In any case, the larger side of the fan
when viewing the mounting lugs is considered the fan bottom
so be sure to assemble the fairing so that it faces the fuselage
bottom, not the fan bottom. The second photo shows the fairing
on the wrong way for the F-86.
cutting the thrust tube to fit around the fairing, the Delta
V 15 DF is installed in the fuselage with the 4 supplied screws.
The 4 screw holes in the plywood mount will be visible if the
DF unit is installed correctly into the intake tube. The intake
tube will be firmly pressed into the nose so that it cannot
move forward or backward once the DF is installed.
thrust tube is folded into a "U" shape, installed
from the rear opening, and taped onto the DF unit. The aft end
is then trimmed to match the outline of the fuselage.
elegant design was not just easy to install, it provides a very
clean duct (without cheater holes) when viewed from either the
nose or the tail.
and Optional Pilots:
canopy assembly was quick and easy. It is also designed so that
you can remove the cockpit at a later date for further scale-ups.
trimming the black cockpit along the guidelines, it simply gets
taped into position under the canopy. You can add a pilot bust,
like I did, or even some cockpit controls.
used the ParkZone T-28 PKZ4414
figure from the neck up. It was held in place with a small amount
of Zap-A-Dap-A-Goo. You can also use the ParkZone Habu PKZ7003
pilot for a quick and inexpensive scale-up.
Hatch and Battery:
bottom hatch is secured with the supplied clear tape. The intake
tube is additionally secured with a custom plywood assembly.
Once in place, the battery installation uses hook and loop material
on the intake tube and LiPo pack. I used my own Industrial Strength
Velcro instead of the supplied hook and loop material.