RCU Review: Ohio Model Products Edge 540 Profile - 46

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    Contributed by: Jim T. Graham | Published: January 2004 | Views: 18324 | email icon Email this Article | PDFpdf icon
    Ohio Model Planes FF540 dia Billy Hell
    OMP 540 BABY!
    Review by: Jim T. Graham aka Billy Hell - email me

    4224 Pennywood Drive
    Beavercreek, Ohio 45430
    (937) 429-3056

    website: www.ohiomodelplanes.com

    Watch the OMP dance!
    MOVIE 1

    MOVIE 2

    MOVIE 3

    MOVIE 4

    MOVIE 5

    Trimming Trees
    How about some tree
    trimming on it's first tank?

    MOVIE 1


    1 2 3 4 5

    1 2 3 4 5
    Ease of Assembly
    1 2 3 4 5
    Aerobatic ability
    1 2 3 4 5
    1 2 3 4 5
    1 2 3 4 5

    With 9 profiles under my belt I started looking for something different. Many people had lots of good things to say about the Ohio Model Planes FF540P. I like a plane that will hover, harrier, flat spin, knife edge and anything else I want it to do. I also like a plane that is forgiving and won't stall unless you absolutely push it to. From all my research the OMP FF540P seemed to fit the bill.

    Profile Edge Description:
    The Ohio Model Planes Profile Edge is built using standard "D-tube" balsa wing construction. The fuselage is stick-framed and sheeted on both sides. Tail feathers are typical stick built. All control surfaces are double-beveled for maximum throw. The rudder and elevator servos are mounted in the tail and use short 2-56 pushrods to the surfaces. Aileron servos are mounted in the wing again using standard hardware. Hardware necessary to complete the kit are engine, tank, radio gear, 2-56 pushrod hardware, wheels, hinges, and covering. Construction is very easy and can be accomplished in under a week.

    • Kit Name: FF540 P
    • Price: $65.00
    • Wingspan: 47"
    • Wing Area: 752sq. in.
    • Length: 46.5"
    • Flying Weight as tested: 4 lb 5oz
    • Wing Loading per mfg: 13.7-14.9 oz/sq ft
    • Motor used: TT Pro .46
    • Prop: APC 12x4
    • Radio and gear:
    • Futaba 8UHFS TX
    • Hitec Electron Rx
    • (2) Hitec 422 Servos for ailerons
    • (2) Hitec 422 Servos for elevator and rudder
    • (1) Hitec 300 Servo for throttle
    • Battery: 5-cell 600 Mah Nicad
    • Channels Used: 5 total - elevator, aileron (2), rudder, throttle (mixes were used on elevator & aileron)
    • Manufacturer:
      Ohio Model Planes

    Assembly of the OMP

    Some people can look at a set of planes and a pile of sticks and start building a plane. I'm not that way. If I'm going to invest a few weeks of nights in a plane I want to make sure I do everything right. Included with the 540 is a CD with detailed instructions and pictures. BIG pictures! It really helped me and I don't remember having a question that wasn't answered on CD. There is also video of people tearing up the sky with their OMP profiles on the CD as well. This is good motivation when you don't feel like working.

    Wing Assembly

    The wing is straight forward with no surprises. Wings always make me nervous. I felt totally at ease with this one. There was nothing tricky about getting it together. I love that the servos are mounted on the outside and that you can get to them without a hatch. It just seems like a good idea to me.

    I have always used triangle stock on my TE to get good throw. This is the first kit that actaully supplied the triangle stock. I knew the designer was doing it right. The throttle servo lives in between the middle two ribs. Your servo wires from the ele and rudder will come in from the TE of the wing between the two middle ribs. This is a little bit different from any other profile I have built.
    I'm not going to go into every detail on building the wing. The CD will do that. Trust me when I say it is nothing to be scared of.

    Fuselage Assembly

    Building the fuse on a profile plane is pretty straight forward. If this is your first profile you wil really appreciate the simplicity. Just keep it flat to the board and stay in the lines. It is also important to get good clean angles on each piece of wood so that the structure is solid.

    The space between the two 3/8” x 1/4” spars running forward from the stab will form a tunnel for the servo wires. Note how these spars fit into the wing saddle spars. Make sure you have strong splices at these joints. Be sure to leave room between the two spars. You will need to get not only your two servo wires through there but also the connectors to the extensions. Make it bigger rather than smaller or you will regret it later!

    The engine mounting wood pieces can be tailored to fit your engine choice. The plans are drawn to fit a .46 ball bearing engine such as the Thunder Tiger Pro .46. The plywood fuselage doubler is cut with a smaller width to accommodate engines such as a .40 or .36 but stick with the .46. It is the perfect sized motor for this plane.

    If you prefer the profile style main gear such as that made Jeff Williams then you must add some balsa filler material in the fuselage framing under the LE of the wing prior to sheeting. This will reinforce this area for the stress of landings. I opted to use Carbon Fiber gear from Jeff Williams. It looks great and can take abuse.

    Motor selection is very important on a profile plane. Why? Because this plane will be only a few feet off the deck hovering, torque rolling and harriering. One cough or sag of the motor and you're going down.

    I went for the Thunder Tiger Pro .46 for my OMP provided by Hobby Lobby. This very affordable engine offers power and reliability right out of the box.

    Usually I let a motor go through a tank or two of gas before taking to the sky. The TT Pro ran so well right out of the box I went ahead and took it up immediately. The transition was perfect right out of the box. She didn't have one hiccup. In fact with only one tank of gas through her Pro Bro Jess Rozman trimmed trees with this plane for over four minutes! That was proof enough for me that I could depend on the Thunder Tiger Pro .46.

    Don't forget to put some right thrust in that motor! It is very important if you want to hover. I just added a single washer under the front two motor mounts.

      Motor Size
      1.43/16,000 RMP
      RPM Range
      2,000 to 17,000 RPM
      Prop Size
      12x4, 12.25x3.75

    Aileron/Rudder/Elevator/Stab Construction

    This is all pretty straight ahead. No surprises here. Just cut the sticks and follow the instructions. This will go very fast.


    Using the outline of the wing opening on the plan as a guide, cut or file out the wing opening in the fuselage so that the wing will slide into place snugly but not too tight. Mine was almost perfect but it did need to be filled up front.

    Cut the center section of the wing trailing edge out between the two R1 ribs for the servo wires as shown (if desired). The opening should match the tunnel in the fuselage.

    Make sure the wing is centered and square to the fuselage both horizontally and laterally. Use a T-square on the sides and also measure from the wing tips to the back edge of the fuselage to be sure. This distance should be equal on both sides. When satisfied, glue the wing in place using plenty of CA on all sides. Thick CA or epoxy can be used to fill in any gaps.

    A trick I use for filling gaps in the wing slot is using Arm and Hammer baking soda. Get the soda in the space by taping the back and filling the gap with the soda. Then hit it with some thin CA. This is a very strong. Make sure you smooth out the soda. You can't really sand it when it dries.

    Slide the stabilizer into the fuselage (trim cutout if necessary) and glue in place with thin CA on all sides. Again make sure the stab is centered, parallel to the wing, and square to the fuselage.

    Install the control surfaces by inserting the CA hinges into the slots you cut earlier. Bend each surface about 90 degrees and then put several drops of thin CA on each side of all hinges. The elevator torque rod is installed in the fuselage stab slot first and then into the elevator halves. Use thin CA in each hole to help harder and solidify the torque rod structure.

    Servos, RX, CG

    I went with the Hitec Electron RX and Hitec 422s for my surfaces. I also used a Hitec 300 for my throttle. The great part about this plane is that the servos are all mounted externally. I like that I can get at them any time I want without messing with the hatches.

    The rear servos need extensions to get from the tail to the rx. I really like the idea of servos in the tail. Pull pull is cool but it makes me nervous (breaking a wire can take a plane down). The OMP 540 has control rods right to the ele and rudder. At this point you have to run your servo wire through the channel you built into the fuselage. This is a little tricky. I fed a wire from the front and pulled them through one at a time. The real trick for me was getting them into the wing. The hole I made wasn't big enough. I had to gouge it out a little more and carefully slide the extension through. I did tie the extension wires together with dental floss to keep them from seperating. I also used two servo extensions to get them all the way into the rx bay. You probably could have done it with one per servo but I didn't want anything getting tight on me. The wing servos were a breeze and the throttle servo was also a piece of cake (my screw driver fit in lightening holes in the wing rib).

    I put the battery and rx in the bay opposite the motor. I then put on my motor using a rubber band and found the right CG (5.5 inches). When it balanced out I surrounded the rx and battery with foam and put the hatch covers on. It was that easy.

    The fuse has a tube that runs straight to the back of the tail to allow for the servo extensions to be fed through. Once the extensions were all fed through, I installed the servos. They were installed into the precut slots at the rear of the fuselage. Since no rods or clear instructions were provided for the installation of the push rod, I improvised by using threaded 4-40 rod and ball links. I made up the right length ends and installed them after finding the right location for the control horns.

    Finally I connected all the servo leads to the receiver and then wrapped the receiver in some foam wrap mounted in front of the wing mount plate. The CG range is from 5.5" (140mm) from the leading edge of the wing to 6.75" (170mm). With everything installed my CG came out at 5.5" (165mm) from the leading edge of the wing.


    In your kit you will find some small rectangular pieces of wood with letters burned into them. They aren't mentioned anywhere in the instructions. These pieces are hard wood and are supposed to be CAed on the back side of each servo mount. The idea was to glue these on so when you screw your servos on you have something to bit into to. There are also some for the motor mount. Some people use them. Some don't. I used mine in the motor mount and in the tail.


    I always cover my pieces first before I put the plane together. This makes everythig much easier. I usually slide the wing in and make sure my measurements are close and then take an erasable marker and draw where the fusulage sits. Then I cut my film away from the wing and clean off the marker.

    Be sure to seal any exposed wood with a thin coating of epoxy to prevent engine oil from soaking in. I also use thin CA for this purpose. This is especially important around the engine compartment and servo openings in the tail.

    I went a little crazy with my covering scheme. I used trans blue Ultracote and checkerboard Monocote. I cut my gothic flames freehand and then used the backing from those flames to help me cut the yellow "tear away" borders. It was a lot of work but I love the way the plane looks. It is a definite hot rod!


    I put my motor in the rails and hold it on with a rubber band or two. Then I check the CG and get out the drill. I drilled the holes out using a 1/8” drill bit.

    Install 4-40 blind nuts on the left side of the fuselage. Apply thin CA on the inside of the holes to harden them up. Mount the engine using 4-40 socket head screws. You should use a couple of wedge plates or washers under the front of the engine to induce about 2 degrees of right thrust.

    Either a 4 or 6 oz. tank may be used and mounted on the side of the fuselage behind the engine or on the left side of the fuselage depending on your preference. The tank can even be mounted in the wing assuming your engine will draw fuel adequately but in wing tanks can leak. There is nothing worse than realizing your wing is full of fuel and the wood is bad! I just used eye hooks to mount the tank and Zip ties to hold it on. I have always used rubber bands but they age with time and break. I also put a piece of foam under the tank.

    I laid my plans over the fuse to find where the landing gear reinforcements were. Then I drilled two holes in the center of the landing gear (BE SURE TO NOT DRILL ON THE BEND!). The gear has held up well with no problems.

    For a tail wheel I went with the Sullivan unit. It is easy and really effective. Simply mount the tail wheel on the back of the fuse and insert the wire into the rudder and the hub of the tail wheel. THAT'S IT!

    I was really excited to get this thing in the air and see if it would live up to my expectations. To date this is one of best looking planes in my hangar. Now to see if see will be the best flying!


    The Thunder Tiger Pro from Hobby Lobby was brand new. My initial plan was to run a tank through and then go flying. Well the motor idled so well after a few mintues I just took off. The take off was smooth and uneventful. This plane felt really solid and tracked well. With two clicks of aileron and one click of elevator she was trimmed and flying like she was on rails. Most of my profiles do 3D great but straight and level isn't perfect. The OMP 540 really surprised me with how solid it was in the air. After the initial trim I brought her in for a landing. Once again the plane proved to be rock solid. My landing was very pretty and very confidence inspiring. So far so good!


    My next flight I tried some standard 3D. I like a plane that will roll with blinding speed. I went to my high rates and found the roll was not as fast as I expected. I knew the problem was my 90 degree throws in the ailerons. I landing and reset them to 60 degress and presto, the roll rate was blinding.

    I then proceeded to hover, flat spin, knife edge and more. I consider myself an entry level 3D pilot so I thought some better talent was needed to push the OMP to it's limits. I called on the services of Profile Brother Jess Rozman. Jess is highly respected as a flyer. The videos below tell the story. With only about 1 tank of gas through the TT Pro .46 Jess proceeded to wring this bird out. He begain by hovering it right on the deck. Then he did some torque rolls. Then he did some rolling harriers. The 540 did everything he asked. The videos will prove there really isn't anything you can't do with this 3D purebred. To top it off Jess took my brand new profile plane and hovered it over to the treeline. Here he proceeded to "trim the trees" for over 5 minutes. Talk about nerve wracking! After you see the video you will come to the same conclusion I did, THIS PLANE ROCKS! It will do whatever you ask of it.

    So whether you are new to 3D or a seasoned vet that likes to use his bird to trim the trees, the OMP GS540 will fit the bill. And she is a good looking plane to boot!

    OMP 540

    This is a bird any Profile Brother could appreciate!

    4224 Pennywood Drive
    Beavercreek, Ohio 45430
    (937) 429-3056
    website: www.ohiomodelplanes.com

    5614 Franklin Pike Cr
    Brentwood, TN 37027 USA
    Phone: 615-373-1444
    website: www.hobby-lobby.com

    Carbon Fiber Gear

    4560 Layhigh Road
    Hamilton, Ohio 45013
    Phone: (513) 738-1576

    12115 Paine St.
    Poway CA, 92064
    Phone: 858-748-6948 Fax: 858-748-1767
    Website: www.hitecrcd.com

    Comments on RCU Review: Ohio Model Products Edge 540 Profile - 46

    Posted by: SigMan on 11/11/2008
    if only it came as an ARF...:(
    Page: 1
    The comments, observations and conclusions made in this review are solely with respect to the particular item the editor reviewed and may not apply generally to similar products by the manufacturer. We cannot be responsible for any manufacturer defects in workmanship or other deficiencies in products like the one featured in the review.

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