Kit
Parts:
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Plenty
of parts are contained in the kit for the true scale enthusiast
to assemble
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Don't
be intimidated by all the parts that come in the kit. The foam
parts require very little sanding and glue together well with
either epoxy or tacky white glue. The custom plastic molded parts
must be cut out and lightly sanded before use. The instruction
manual is excellent and the provided decal sheet allows for a
number of various scale schemes to be followed.
Components
Used:
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The
GWS "Dream Starter" radio system and power system
provide true plug-n-play
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Hobby
Lobby supplies a complete plug-n-play system for the AT-6. By
using the recommended GWS "Dream Starter" radio system
and GWS IPS power system, you are well on your way to a successful
project. The 2-cell, Kokam 1200mAH pack plugs right into the GWS
electronic speed control (ESC) and provides over 45 minute flights!
Safe
charging of your Kokam Lithium packs is insured by using the dedicated
2-cell FMA202 Automatic Lithium Charger from FMA. The FTM001AP
Accessory Pack provides additional items needed to help complete
the kit like epoxy, solder, and a connector for the battery charger.
As
always, play it safe, so be sure to charge your Kokam Lithium
pack on a non-flammable surface and never leave it unattended
while charging.
Wing
Assembly:
The
wing halves are lightly sanded and then reinforced along the leading
edge with a wooden dowel. When the two wing halves are glued together,
an aluminum tube is used to connect the dowels for added strength.
Any flat surface can be used to automatically set the correct
amount of dihedral when gluing the wing halves together. This
eliminates the guesswork.
Aileron
Assembly:
After
the ailerons are cut out and taped to the wings, special hinges
are made from styrene tubing and sheet. The supplied thread is
routed from the servo arm to the top and bottom sides of the aileron
hinges via an opening in the wing.
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Aileron
Hookup Detail
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A
single thread is routed from the servo
arm to both ailerons
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The
resultant aileron control line and hinging provides a very
light and accurate swing. In fact, the throws were excessive
on my ailerons during flight and I reduced them by using the
center holes on each side of the servo arm. |
Elevator
Assembly:
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The
horizontal and vertical stabilizers are cut from a foam sheet
that is pre-marked. The elevator halves are then cut off and
joined with a piece of wooden dowel. |
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I
aligned my elevator halves and joiner by using the stabilizer
as a guide during the gluing process. A ruler kept the other
side from moving out. I used Aleene's Tacky Glue for most
of my foam parts. It initially holds the parts together well
and sets fast.
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The
elevator is attached to the stabilizer with a few pieces of
clear tape. |
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The
elevator rod is created from two pieces of wire and a stick.
The finished assembly is very strong yet light. I CA'ed the
wires in place and then covered the ends with shrink wrap
tubing. |
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Instead
of using the supplied tie wrap end for a control horn, I used
a Dubro (#848) micro horn. Either technique will work fine. |
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The
elevator servo placement is shown here. After first centering
the servo electronically, I then attached to rod to the servo
arm and stuck the servo to the fuselage inside wall with servo
tape while watching the elevator for perfect centering.
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Canopy
and Fuselage Painting:
I
painted the fuselage and cowl to match my Hangar 9 AT-6 scheme.
l debated whether or not the stock yellow foam was close enough
for me and decided not to paint it. If you decide to paint your
fuselage, don't worry about the extra weight. This AT-6 flies
plenty slow!
It
has been fun building so far. The little AT-6 is plenty cute already!
Motor Mounting:
The
GWS DX-A motor mounting scheme was very innovative! I mistakenly
made a 3-layer plank from the spare foam instead of the plastic
sheeting but it works just as well. I merely needed to cut my
foam opening a bit.
The
gearbox is glued to the plank and then soft-mounted in the custom
cutout foam piece by pressing it into the foam fuselage. The process
was very easy and worked great! It should make for easy repairs,
if needed.
After
the cowl is press-fit into the fuselage nose, it is easy to set
a little bit of right and down thrust, if desired, and it will
still pop free if you crash it on the gym floor, or on the ground
outside.
Cowl
Ring and Mounting:
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A
rubber band is used to create an even circle on the cowl
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I
painted the red ring on my cowl to match the color scheme of my
Hangar 9 AT-6. To make a nice circle, I decided to use a rubber
band and hold it in place with masking tape.
For
my canopy, I decided to mask off the windows and spray paint it
dark blue to match the fuselage. After the paint dried, I carefully
peeled off the masking tape. Alternatively, you can also cover
the window frame area with Pactra Trim Tape.
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To
mount my cowl, I used a few pieces of double-sided Scotch
tape. The cowl just pressed into place and held securely. |
Battery
Access:
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The
ESC battery connector is routed
through a hole cut in the wing
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A
battery tray (which I spray painted)
was then taped into position
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The
2-cell Kokam 340SCH pack is a perfect match for the AT-6 design
and the power system for indoor flying. For outdoor flying, the
2-cell Kokam 1200HC pack provides over 45 minute flights!
Finishing
the Model:
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Optional
gear mains are added that remove easily for flying over
grass
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I
modified a set of Wattage (01962) Micro Removable Mains gear by
replacing the stock white plastic wheels with a pair of old foam
ones from my Kyosho Ferias. It gave a closer scale look to my
AT-6. You can also use a pair of Dubro Ultra-Lite 1-1/2"
wheels (#150MW) for a similar look.
Although
the plane should fly fine with the gear attached, I plan to remove
them for my maiden voyage. The metal wire simply pulls out from
the plastic base with a squeeze from a pair of pliers.
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I
decided to deviate a bit from my scale plan and try the (FS305)
3-blade prop from Hobby Lobby. I mounted it with the supplied
bushing and then used a red prop hub from an old free-flight
rubber-powered model. |
A
Wattage steerable tailwheel assembly was added to the rudder
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I
wanted a steerable tailwheel on my AT-6 so I used the Wattage
(01953) Micro Tail Wheel Assembly. It installed easily after
drilling a hole into the foam rudder and slicing the fuselage
bottom flat. I used 5-minute epoxy and a thin balsa spacer.
Not
shown are the air intake and exhaust header that I will
paint and glue to my fuselage after a few test flights are
completed.
For
the proper balance point, turn the plane upside down and
measure approximately 2-¼" from the leading
edge of the wing, measured from the point just outside of
the landing gear bulge.
The
aileron and elevator throws are approximately ½"
up and ½" down.
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