Kit
Contents:
Before
removing the parts from the box, I immediately noticed that each
piece was wrapped in plastic and carefully placed in custom-sized
areas. A tri-lingual manual with photos and several decal sheets
were also supplied in their own plastic wrapping.
The pre-built Graupner ARF model has amazing quality! The fiberglass
cowl is pre-painted in three colors. The light yet strong built
up balsa and ply wings has the ailerons pre-installed and each
hinge is pinned for strength. The covering is quality heat shrink
film with each color a separate piece (not preprinted film). The
fuselage is conventional wood construction with the motor mount
and pushrods pre-installed. The landing gear hardware and the
wing mounting hardware are pre-installed, and the entire fuselage
is already covered. The pilot and canopy are also pre-installed.

My
ship had a Patty Wagstaff pilot figurehead
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The fuselage is built light
yet strong
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Pushrods pre-installed including clevis and keeper.
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The
landing gear hardware is pre-installed and designed to take
a real hit
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The
fiberglass cowl is pre-painted in three colors. It fits
perfectly onto the fuselage nose!
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All
the control surfaces are pre-installed
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The
wing mounting hardware
and motor mount are also
pre-installed.
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Each
hinge is pinned for strength.
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Power System:

To
keep my Extra 300S light, I used Hitec parts from
Hobby Lobby
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Hitec's
Electron 6 receiver
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The Ultimate Battery Eliminator Circuit replaces the receiver
battery
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Since
there was little work left to complete the ARF model, the key
design choices for my conversion would be to select light radio
components and in the power system design itself.
Required
for completion are a 4-Channel radio, 4 standard-size servos (2-Aileron,
1-Elevator, 1-Rudder). Note that for my electric conversion, the
throttle servo was replaced with a Jeti Advance 70amp Opto Electronic
Speed Control (ESC). The "Opto" version provides maximum
isolation between the noisy driver outputs to the motor and the
input lines that connect to the sensitive receiver.
An
AXI 4120 External Rotor Brushless Motor
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Aluminum
Motor Mount easily replace the stock .60-size glow engine
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The
ESC and UBEC inputs are wired together to connect to the
flight pack
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Here
is a list of my components that I selected for the conversion:
-
4
of the HS-85MG Hitec HS-85 "Mighty Micro"
Plus Metal Gear Servos
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Hitec
"Electron" 6 Ch. Micro FM Receiver
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AXI
4120/14 External Rotor Brushless Motor
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PM41001
Aluminum Motor Mount for AXI 41 Series Brushless Motors
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Jeti
"Advance" 70 Amp Opto Brushless Controller,
6-16 Cells
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Ultimate
BEC (UBEC)
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APC
15x10 e-Prop
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Graupner
(GR605360) Prop Shaft Adapter for 6mm Motor
- Shaft
or MP Jet (4706) Prop Adapter
The
UBEC input is wired in parallel with the ESC battery connector.
Since the ESC is an "Opto" isolated type, it needs
power into the plug from the receiver which it gets from
the UBEC device output. Simply plug the ESC into the throttle
channel and the UBEC into any free channel. If no free channel
exists, then a "Y" adapter is needed for the throttle
channel.
Non-Opto
ESCs usually need the on-board BEC disabled which requires
disconnecting the red "+" wire from the receiver
connector. Opto-isolated ESCs have no on-board BEC and require
power from the receiver via an Rx. battery or UBEC.
The
UBEC is a state of the art switching regulator designed
to convert an input voltage from 5.5v to 35v DC into a regulated
output voltage of 5v to power your receiver and servos.
The UBEC can deliver a continuous current of 3amps and a
peak short term output up to 5amps. This is meant to handle
power for up to 8 servos.
A
typical 4-cell receiver battery pack weighs 3.2oz so I saved
2.2oz along with the added convienience of not having to
worry about re-charging another battery pack.
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Mounting
the AXI Motor:
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Only
two new holes are needed to mount
the AXI power system
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I
used the stock T-nuts and then supplied four M4 screws to
mount the motor
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Mounting
the AXI motor onto the Extra 300S firewall was an easy task. First,
I removed the stock glow mount bars. Using the PM41001 Aluminum
Motor Mount, I only needed to move two of the four pre-intalled
T-nuts. This required drilling two new holes in the firewall as
shown in the photo.
I
removed the unused throttle linkage and screwed the motor mount
onto the firewall T-nuts using the four stock screws. I then applied
some blue Locktite to the threads behind the firewall.
The AXI motor doesn't come with any mounting hardware so you need
to supply four M4 metric screws and washers. My screws were about
3/4" long but 1/2" long would still be plenty.

I
added a little Locktite to the screw threads to keep the
motor securely fastened.
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The
resultant mount was
rock-solid!
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I
had pre-measured the distance needed from the firewall
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The
cowl fit perfectly.
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I
used an MP Jet MJ4706 collet prop adapter for 6mm shafts
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an
APC 15x8 e-prop and the stock red spinner supplied
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Wing
and Tail Assembly:
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I
added a plywood block to mount the smaller, lighter HS-85MG
servos
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The
aileron servos and linkage installed with ease. To compensate
for my smaller HS-85MG servos, I added a plywood block on one
side of the servo and glued it to the existing post.
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All
linkage "keepers" are
supplied with the kit
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All
the parts were supplied including snap keepers and ring keepers.
Great attention to detail is a trademark of Graupner models.
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The
tail assembly was simple and quick
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The
tailwheel has a built-in loop in the metal rod for shock
absorption
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The
tail assembly was fairly simple and I saw no problems. First you
need to mark the area and then cut away the covering so the glued
surfaces make a stronger bond. After gluing the horizontal stabilizer
with epoxy, then glued the vertical stabilizer and measured for
correct incidences. My wing, tail, and motor mount assembly were
finished in only a few hours.
The steerable tailwheel mounted easily and has a loop in the metal
rod for shock absorption. I found an extra aluminum plate in the
tailwheel bag that already had holes drilled into it so I used
that one instead of the aluminum strip that came in the tail brace
bag.

Graupner
supplies all the hardware pre-sorted for easy and quicker
assembly
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The
stock wheel pants were left unchanged
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Leave
it to Graupner to find a way to make things even easier through
good organization. I had noticed when mounting my aileron control
horns that all the supplied hardware was already organized by
attaching parts to their respective screws or threading. Even
the set screws were already installed into the quick links. The
photo here shows how the hardware comes in the bag.
This
may be my first glow-to-electric conversion where I used the stock
wheel pant mounting scheme and hardware. Needless to say, I was
pleasantly surprised.
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My
Extra wheel pants had a great finished look and they were
mounted very solid to the gear mains.
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Linkages:
Graupner
changed the design of the elevator linkage since their initial
release of the Extra 300S last year. My first model used a metal
joiner to connect the wing halves together. The new models use
separate control rods which require two servos instead of one.
Ideally, I wish they had added a fourth control rod for a pull-pull
setup on the rudder.

The
original design was changed by Graupner for a second elevator
servo
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All
three servos are installed per the manual
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After
I realized that my mechanical setup on the two elevator servos
would not allow for a "Y" adapter cable, I utilized
the power of my Futaba Super-8 transmitter by plugging the second
elevator servo into channel 6 and programmed a mixer to follow
channel 2.
Alternatively,
you can reverse one of the servo arms or even use a single servo
by running both control rods to the same side of the servo arm.
Finishing
Up:
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The
antenna wire is routed
through the fuselage
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I
try to route my receiver antenna wire through an existing hole
or exit in the fuselage whenever possible. On my Extra 300S, I
used the existing elevator control rod slot in the fuselage for
my antenna exit hole. I have a long piece of stiff copper wire
that I first run through the control rod slot into the fuselage
and then solder the end to the receiver antenna wire. The copper
wire is then pulled back out the slot and cut away from the antenna
wire.
To
mount the cowl, I cut slots in the bottom for the gear mains to
slide through. After positioning the cowl next to the firewall,
I marked the spots for the cut. I found that after first tracing
my markings with a sharp razor knife, I could easily cut away
the slots with sizzors.
I
also added a large opening onto the bottom of the cowl to act
as both an air exit for motor cooling and as an access point to
connect the battery for flight or disconnect it for charging.
The
fiberglass cowl was a perfect fit, but I didn't see any screws
supplied in the kit so I mounted the cowl using 6 small SIG (SIGSH711)
sheet metal screws.
You
can see the battery cable access is simple and very convenient.
The 15x8 prop and supplied spinner fit perfectly for a great scale
look!
Battery
Options:
Here
are some options for battery power on the Graupner Extra 300S:
- 16-cells
CP2400 NiCd (yellow packs) = 34.7oz
- 16-cells
CP1700 NiCd (black packs) = 27.0oz
- 4s3p
Kokam 1500HD pack (4.5AH, not shown) = 16oz
- 4s2p
Kokam (20C) 4AH pack (red packs) = 22.0oz
As
shown, all these packs fit perfectly in the Extra 300S. The packs
vary in weight and cost. The NiCd packs can be moved aft, if needed
to fine tune the desired flying performance.
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