Kit
Contents:
The
parts came very well packed and anchored down where needed. The
model is almost finished and has many time saving features like
pre-installed hinges that only need CA, and uncovered surfaces
that need to be glued like the stabilizers.
|
|
Individual
Weight of Parts:
Wing half w/ aileron = 4.3oz
Fuselage = 4.7oz
H-stab w/elevator = 1.3oz
V-stab w/rudder = 0.6oz
Gear and short control rods = 1.2oz
Canopy (already pre-drilled) = 0.5oz
|
|
I don't
usually weigh the individual parts but I was impressed enough to
do so after picking them up for the first time.
Power System:
|
|
|
|
The
Jeti "Advance" ESC comes with mating plugs for
the motor.
The UBEC and ESC are wired together before connecting the
AXI motor.
|
One
of the nice things about electric power systems is that 350 watts
is 350 watts, so as long as you have a reasonable prop size,
the solution you choose will work fine. I plan to use an AXI 4120/14
motor from Hobby Lobby with an APC 14x7 e-prop. The manual shows
the use of a folding prop, so perhaps a Graupner CAM, or CFK folding
prop is a good choice as well.
For
battery power, I'll use two of the new Kokam 2AH (15C) 2-cell
packs in series for a 4s1p combination that provides a 30amp continuous
current delivery capability weighing only 12oz. Alternatively,
two 7-cell CP1700 NiCd, or 1950FAUP NiMH packs, wired in series
would work, but would weigh closer to 22oz.
To power my Fun World EP I'm using an AXI 4120/14 brushless outrunner
motor, a Jeti 70-amp Advance ESC (although the 40-amp version
will work also), and the new KFS003 UBEC with 6v output from Kool
Flight Systems via Hobby Lobby.
The
6v output UBEC is like using a 5-cell receiver pack to speed up
your servo response and make them stronger. A great advantage
for 3D flying! The UBEC weighs only about 1/3 of the 5-cell receiver
battery pack and eliminates the need to keep a second battery
charged since it gets its power right from the main flight pack.
If the receiver does not have enough channel connectors to plug
in the UBEC output cable, you can connect it in parallel with
any channel using a "Y" adapter cable.
Wing Assembly:
|
|
|
Short
control rods provide great strength and add little weight. |
|
The
aileron servos are mounted first. World Models provides
a string with a piece of hardwood attached to each end to
draw the servo lead through the bay into the center side.
I used Hitec HS-85 Mighty Micro servos from
Hobby Lobby. They have ball-bearings and optional metal
gears for added strength. The powerful 49oz./in. torque
is similar to a standard size servo but the smaller micro-size
case weighs only half the weight at 0.8oz. They fit perfectly
into the servo bays.
The short control rods provide great strength and add very
little weight. The World Models ARF kit provides pre-bent
and threaded rods for all the control surfaces. Even the
rubber keepers are supplied.
|
Tail
Assembly:
|
|
|
|
I
chose to assemble the elevator first on a flat surface
before installing it into the tail.
|
The
elevators and metal joiner rod are normally assembled on the fuselage
after first gluing in the horizontal stabilizer.
I chose to assemble it on a flat bench first, then glue the
completed assembly into the fuselage. This insures a properly
aligned elevator and makes it easier to glue the metal joiner
in place. It does, however, require cutting out a small section
of the tail to insert the completed assembly. I easily cut out
the small section of tail with a sharp X-acto knife.
|
|
|
|
The
steerable tail wheel mounts easily and is included in the
kit.
|
The
tail wheel mounted easily after first drilling a hole and cutting
a channel for the metal rod into the rudder. After drilling pilot
holes for the two screws, I applied some white glue to the threads
before installing them.
|
|
|
|
Huge
control surfaces with a wide throw range are great for 3D
flying!
|
The
finished tail had thin seams and wide swings on very large control
surfaces. I had a good feeling about the potential for 3D performance.
Both rudder and elevator HS-85MG servos are mounted in the tail
to use short control rods for tight, responsive throws.
Gear
Mains:
|
|
|
|
The
stock main gear is light yet strong.
|
The
main landing gear is designed to be strong and light. It assembled
easily by drilling pilot holes for the six screws to hold the
three straps. Plastic washers and metal collars are included in
the kit to hold the wheels in place.
Mounting
the AXI:
|
|
|
|
|
The
AXI Radial Mount Set was used with the stock plywood formers.
|
To
mount my AXI 4120 motor, I used PM41002 Radial Mount Set and the
stock Fun World EP plywood formers. I did have to supply some
T-nuts and 2" screws to attach the mount to the plywood firewall.
I initially placed the radial mount plate onto one of the plywood
formers and outlined the outer mounting holes and inner larger
hole with a black felt-tip pen. The second, identical size, former
was then glued to the first former with CA for added strength.
The T-nuts were then mounted before gluing the former in the fuselage
with 5-minute epoxy. I used a Dremel tool to widen the inner hole
to match the black pen line.
|
|
|
|
|
I
used the discarded plywood pieces to strengthen the fuselage.
|
The
firewall former, which is pre-cut to a perfect shape by the manufacturer,
is then glued in place using 5-minute epoxy. I used the discarded
plywood pieces, that originally held the aileron servo tunnel
strings in place, to strengthen the fuselage in four places. The
AXI 4120 motor has incredible power, so care should be taken to
support the fuselage properly.
|
|
|
|
The
AXI 4120 fit perfectly. The power of this 350+ watt motor
will make this plane rock!
|
Wing
Mounting:
|
|
|
|
|
The
removable wing is held securely by a metal rod.
|
The
wing is mounted using a metal support rod that is secured on one
end by a machine screw and the other end by a metal screw. It
can be disassembled by removing the machine screw. One end of
the metal rod has a tapped hole to receive the machine screw through
the wing support wood.
My
wing was built wrong and the guiding hole for the machine screw
was not in the correct spot. I simply drilled a new hole with
my Dremel tool. This is common on early versions sent out for
review.
The
rear of the wing is held by wooden dowels that stick through
a sleeve pre-built into the fuselage. There was a slight wobble
when the wing was fully installed so I drilled holes into the
dowels and secured each of them with a toothpick. With the
added rear wing support, I could pick up my plane and shake it
now without any wobble. This is needed for the abuse it will take
in 3D flying.
Flight
Pack:
The
power for my AXI setup comes from the new lightweight 15C 2AH
Kokam cells. I'll use two 2-cell packs in series for a 4s configuration
that can deliver 30 amps continuous at a capacity of 2000 mAh. I
can also get peak burst current up to 40 amps when needed.
The two packs are easily connected in series using the Kokam Series
Connector Module cut down from 5 plugs to 2 plugs. The series
connector joins the 2-cell packs together as a single 4-cell pack.
Finishing
the ARF Model:
My
Fun World EP uses an FMA M5 receiver for a full-strength,
double-conversion, rock-solid signal that weighs only 0.3oz. To
hide the antenna inside, and keep it from flopping around in 3D
maneuvers, I ran the wire inside a tube and mounted it inside
the fuselage. The extra wire length is coiled around the supplied
plastic bobbin.
The photos above show my component layout for the M5 receiver,
antenna tube, 6v UBEC, and ESC. The plywood tray is in the stock
position and will hold my two 2-cell Lithium packs. The ESC Dean's
Ultra plug routes through the center plywood opening.
The
canopy is mounted stock. It had pre-drilled holes in the plastic
for the supplied screws and rubber grommets. For good luck (or
superstition) I usually test fly my new plane before adding a
pilot.
I love the plug-n-play aspect of using a Tower Hobbies System
3000 Switch Harness whenever I use a UBEC to replace the receiver
battery. The On/Off switch plugs inline between the UBEC 6v output
and the receiver battery connector. The added safety of keeping
the motor and servos disabled after plugging the flight pack into
the ESC is a great convenience. When the 5v is removed from the
receiver in a system that uses an Opto-isolated ESC, there is
no signal going to the throttle channel so the ESC keeps the motor
disabled. The Opto-isolated ESC needs power from the receiver
side to run before enabling the motor. This is a key difference
from a normal ESC.
That
being said, it should never be used as a complete safety system.
Whenever the battery is connected to the ESC, always treat the
power system as enabled by keeping the prop clear of all objects.
|
|
The
layout of my FunWorld EP components followed the manual
design.
|
|
My
component layout followed the suggestions in the manual. Although
my motor extended out beyond the example in the manual, my lighter
Lithium packs would help offset most of the difference. I ended
up adding a quarter coin to each side of the aft end of the
fuselage.
The two quarters weigh about 0.6oz. I also moved the two battery
packs aft an inch until the rear pack touched the M5 receiver.
|
Email this Article
| PDF
