RCU Review: RC Superstore Cap 232

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    Contributed by: Erick Royer | Published: October 2004 | Views: 25238 | email icon Email this Article | PDFpdf icon
    RCU Magazine Review - Extreme Aircraft CAP 232

    Review by: Erick Royer

    RC Superstore
    28996 800th Avenue
    Hollandale, MN 56045


    Click image above to see the
    CAP 232 in action!

    Ease of Assembly
    Aerobatic ability

    Ease of assembly
    Top notch quality
    Awesome motor mount with engine bolts
    Great aluminum horns included
    Great flying, slow landings

    Incomplete accessories

    "Snappy Cap" is the buzzword at the field when anyone talks about them. When I first heard and read about the new 73" CAP 232 from Extreme Aircraft I thought it would just be too good to be true. A CAP that doesn't have bad tendencies to snap. A CAP that can land power off and glide to a nice soft touchdown. Sounds like a bunch of hype to me, I thought. Well I was anxious to get this CAP built to find out for myself.

    The 33% that I have flown was quite a handful.
    CAP's are known for their wild and crazy aerobatics, straight lines and solid knife edges. Flying this 73" version I will be ready for anything. However with some of good things I have been reading about this particular CAP it's more then likely going to match my expectations ... we will see.

    ARF Name: CAP 232
    Price: $329.95
    Wingspan: 73"
    Length: 68"
    Flying Weight : 11.5 lbs.
    Engine: OS 1.60
    Muffler: Bisson Pitts
    Prop: Pro Zinger 18 x 6
    Transmitter: JR 8103
    Receiver: JR PCM
    Servos: Hitec HS 645 MG all the way around. Throttle Hitec HS 325.
    Battery: 1450 mah 6.0V NiMH
    Channels/Mixing Used: Ailerons split in channels 1 & 5
    Manufacturer: Extreme Aircraft

    Required to purchase:
    Pushrods, Clevises,
    Tailwheel assembly, Main wheels, Wheel axles, Pull-pull rig

    Came with 16 oz tank, however replaced with 24 oz for OS 1.60.

    Box contents
    Main area, very roomy

    Wing Assembly:

    The first step in the manual was hinging the ailerons. I pushed a pin through the supplied CA hinges at their mid-point, and then pushed the hinge into the aileron first. I then pushed the aileron into the wing starting at the outboard hinge working my way in. I made sure the outboard edge of the aileron was flush with the wing and then applied about 8 drops of CA to both sides of each hinge.

    I then moved on to the wing joiner. I test fit the joiner into both wing halves individually, and made sure the fit was snug, but not to tight as to cause problems when gluing. I then slid both wings halves together and test fit the joint where they meet. The seam was a perfect fit, and no sanding or adjustments were needed, so I proceeded to mix up some 5 minute epoxy and apply it to the pocket of the left wing half, and the all sides of the wing joiner. After I let that dry for about 30 minutes, I then mixed up some 30 minute epoxy and applied it to the joiner pocket in the right wing, the exposed wing joiner, and the two root ribs. I then slid the two wing halves together and lined the two halves up, and then wiped off the excess epoxy, and then taped the wing halves together.

    Pin all hinges
    The only scoring required
    V-stab slot

    The next step was installing the aileron servos. I started by attaching a 12” servo extension to each servo and securing it with some heat shrink tubing. Inside the servo opening was a string attached to a piece of balsa, which I pried loose and tied to the servo extension end. At the root end of the wing is the other end of the string – this proved to be quite the challenge to get out, but I eventually got it and pulled the servo leads through. The servos are mounted on their sides laying flat in the servo pockets by using the supplied plastic “L” brackets. After mounting the servos in the wing I mounted the supplied metal control per the instructions.

    Next step was to install the pre-covered wing hold down plate. This was not much of a problem and only required scoring the uncovered side in the center with a xacto knife and then lining it up with the center seam and the rear of the wing and gluing it using 5 minute epoxy.

    Easy to install, tight fit
    Hardwood spar
    Pre-strung wire guide

    Rear Stab Assembly:

    Next I moved onto the rear of the fuse for installing the horizontal stabilizer. I started by removing the covering over the opening and inserting the stabilizer into the fuselage. I centered the stabilizer by measuring the distance between the wing (mounted in the saddle) and the leading edge of the stabilizer. I checked to make sure that once it was centered it was also parallel to the wing, which it was and no adjustments were needed. I then marked around the stabilizer where it met the fuselage on both sides top and bottom.

    I then removed the stabilizer from the fuse and removed the covering about 1/8th of an inch inside the lines I had made. The instructions said to insert the stabilizer in the fuse and line it back up and then use CA glue to hold it in position. I deviated from this a little by using 15 minute epoxy, as I was a little worried that the CA would not hold or eventually work loose.

    Without spacers
    Without spacers
    Test fit

    I then test fit the vertical fin and checked it for square. Surprisingly again no adjustments were needed. I marked around the outer edge of the fin and then removed the covering from the fuselage about 1/8th of an inch inside the drawn line. I mixed up some 5 minute epoxy and glued the vertical fin in place and rechecked for square, and then set the fuselage aside to dry.

    Servo spacer
    Spacer installed
    Geometry could be better

    Elevator assembly:

    Moving right along I next was ready to install the elevators. I temporarily installed them with the supplied CA hinges, and aligned the outboard edge with the end of the stabilizer. I then installed the supplied metal control horn 1 ¼ inch from the inside edge of the elevator. This is pretty easy to do and really doesn't’t require even measuring. If you look closely under the covering you can see the hardwood block the control horn mounts to. After mounting the control horn I mounted the elevators permanently with the CA hinges using about 8 drops on both top and bottoms of each elevator.

    Rudder geometric's fine
    Electronics installed

    Rudder Assembly:

    Next was the rudder installation. I started by making a mark ¾” up from the bottom on both sides of the rudder. I then lined the supplied metal control horns up with the marks and made sure the hole was directly centered over the hinge line. I then marked the locations of the holes, and drilled completely through the rudder making sure to keep the drill straight. I then mounted the two control horns using 2/56 bolts and locknuts (these were not supplied). I then hinged the rudder using the supplied CA hinges and used CA again to attach them.

    Pull pull rudder
    Rear assembly
    Nice fit for OS 1.60

    Engine Mount:

    The engine mount supplied was the nicest one I have ever seen supplied with an ARF. I started off by mounting the engine mount to the predrilled holes with the blind nuts already installed. I clamped the engine to the mounts and trial fit the cowling to adjust the length of the output shaft of the O.S. 160 so the prop washer was about 1/8th of an inch outside the cowl. Once I had this, I marked and the drilled the holes through the engine mount and bolted the engine to it.

    Ready to fly

    Click image above to see the
    CAP 232 in action!

    Getting ready to fly this CAP hardly got me any sleep the night before. Not so much as getting ready, just being really excited the next day to fly it kept tossing and turning. Is it going to snap? Is it going to beat my expectations? Do I have all the throws correct? Ahhh don't you just love this hobby.

    Time to fly this bird. Setting it up was piece of cake. Just 2 main bolts, fill er' up with 15% and she's ready to go. You just got to love these OS 1.60 engines. Half a flip and it's cranking. It's a brand new motor with about 3 tanks through it on the bench. Dial in the idle trim and she's ready to go. I also added just a touch of higher then recommended throws for high rates. Always had low rates if I ran into trouble, so no worries.

    On the runway it looks real pretty. Very scale. I was not that nervous which was really strange. Anyhow I waited only about 5 seconds till I decided to hit it. Half throttle to track down. It tracked perfectly straight, I mean perfectly. Then full power. Tail went up and I decided for it's first liftoff for a nice scale takeoff instead of just gunning it.

    Got it up to trim it out. Only a click or two and she was straight and level in it's second flyby. Just ran the engine for a bit and as usual the OS sounded and ran like a fine swiss watch. Stayed in low rates and did a couple slow loops. Really nice tracked perfectly. Did some cuban 8's again, great tracking and stability at each turn. So far I'm happy.

    OK, enough of that. Let's jam in the high rates and see what it can do. Did and clean fly-by and jammed and outside snap roll ... oh crap ... we have a CAP. Tumbles like nothing I've ever seen in this size plane. Recovery from the snaps were not that easy, it broke hard. Quick change to low rates and it just recovered so nice. So now I decided to do the high rate test. Fly along straight and level and jam the elevator into a loop. Too much throw as it wanted to snap pretty hard.

    I kind of figured that as I was over the recommended throws for high rates. So now I figure lets see how hot this plane performs on low rates. Low rates are pretty low, 3/4" except for rudder.

    So I start hitting the basic 3D moves and to my surprise it could amazing aerobatics on low rates. I thought this was too good to be true. This plane could flatspin, waterfall and even hang on the prop on low rates. Blenders, same thing, the plane just likes low rates. Something I'm not too used to seeing.

    After few minutes of fun, dead stick. I was thinking cool, what better fun then an unpredicted dead stick on it's maiden. I shot the plane down real quick, get it as close to the ground as soon as possible. Got it into the wind and lined up for the runway. Getting ready for anything. Comes in, passes me and just keeps going, this plane does not want to land. Kept gliding real nice and finally settled at just over a walking pace. HOLY COW, never could I ever imagine it would land so slow. It beat my expectations and then some with landing. It was the big baby like I read. Landed no different and no faster then a Superstar trainer. Very impressed. Found out the muffler hose to the tank came off. On a well broken in engine, they usually keep going. On a brand new engine, usually needs that extra vacuum to keep it purring.

    Brought it in, filled it right back up. I lowered the high rates to manual specs. Took it back up and just had fun. It still wanted to break a little with high rates, but what fun it was. Just a real pretty plane in the air too. Almost the perfect scale plane. Not over exaggerated like most of the big Edge's and Extra's I've flown.


    Just kept going through the motions. Knife edges are really nice. Had very slight coupling, but held them rock solid straight across the sky. Flatspins are not so tight, seen better, but still real nice. Inverted flat spins tend to cross over at full throw, so you have to find the sweet spot. Once you find it, it will flatspin inverted with the best of them, which is common for inverted to do better. Blenders are wild of course and once you find that sweet spot for the flatspin, you going to have fun with them. Waterfalls could be tighter, but again, effortless and no rudder required. Overall couldn't be happier. The plane over came in real close to what I thought it would do based on the hype. You have to be careful on high rates, however the plane just does not need them. It will fly scale aerobatics and 3D on low rates just fine.

    Overall I'm very happy with my new CAP 232. The quality of the ARF is top notch. Building could not be more simple unless it came ready to fly like some of the trainers. However I was slightly disappointed by the fact it was incomplete. Most of the 25% ARF's and smaller that I have purchased have pretty much come with all included hardware. Even if half the time I have switched the hardware, it's still nice to see it in the box. I would have also liked to have seen a 2 piece wing. I'm starting to see 2 piece wings on even the .40 size planes now, seems that several companies are starting to catch on.

    On it's flight performance, the hype was about 95% accurate, it is a big baby and it does land at a crawl with no power required for touchdown. It's as stable if not more so then any other 70"-80" wing spanned aircraft I have ever flown. Wild and crazy on high rates, a gentle flyer on low.

    Overall I'd say it's well worth the money. If it ever goes in and joins some of my other planes in RC heaven, I would probably not hesitate to purchase another. Lines are real nice including the airfoiled tail section. Manufacturing of the plane is near perfect. I don't think I would really change anything on how it was manufactured. Again the only real miss is the incomplete hardware, however having to only spend about 6 hours total assembling it made up for the extra spent to get it finished.

    Good job Extreme Aircraft, you have a winner.

    noid was here

    RC Superstore
    28996 800th Avenue
    Hollandale, MN 56045


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    The comments, observations and conclusions made in this review are solely with respect to the particular item the editor reviewed and may not apply generally to similar products by the manufacturer. We cannot be responsible for any manufacturer defects in workmanship or other deficiencies in products like the one featured in the review.

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