Ease of assembly
Top notch quality
Awesome motor mount with engine bolts
Great aluminum horns included
Great flying, slow landings
"Snappy Cap" is the buzzword at the field
when anyone talks about them. When I first heard and read about the new 73"
CAP 232 from Extreme Aircraft I thought it would just be too
good to be true. A CAP that doesn't have bad tendencies to
snap. A CAP that can land power off and glide to a nice soft
touchdown. Sounds like a bunch of hype to me, I thought. Well
I was anxious to get this CAP built to find out for myself.
The 33% that I have flown was quite a handful.
CAP's are known for their wild and crazy aerobatics, straight
lines and solid knife edges. Flying this 73" version
I will be ready for anything. However with some of good things
I have been reading about this particular CAP it's more then
likely going to match my expectations ... we will see.
ARF Name: CAP 232 Price: $329.95 Wingspan: 73" Length: 68" Flying Weight : 11.5 lbs. Engine: OS 1.60 Muffler: Bisson Pitts Prop: Pro Zinger 18 x 6 Transmitter: JR 8103 Receiver: JR PCM Servos: Hitec HS 645 MG all the way around. Throttle
Hitec HS 325. Battery: 1450 mah 6.0V NiMH Channels/Mixing Used: Ailerons split in channels 1
& 5 Manufacturer: Extreme Aircraft
Required to purchase:
Pushrods, Clevises, Tailwheel assembly, Main wheels, Wheel axles, Pull-pull
Came with 16 oz tank, however replaced with 24 oz for OS 1.60.
area, very roomy
The first step in the manual was hinging
the ailerons. I pushed a pin through the supplied CA hinges
at their mid-point, and then pushed the hinge into the aileron
first. I then pushed the aileron into the wing starting at
the outboard hinge working my way in. I made sure the outboard
edge of the aileron was flush with the wing and then applied
about 8 drops of CA to both sides of each hinge.
then moved on to the wing joiner. I test fit the joiner into
both wing halves individually, and made sure the fit was snug,
but not to tight as to cause problems when gluing. I then
slid both wings halves together and test fit the joint where
they meet. The seam was a perfect fit, and no sanding or adjustments
were needed, so I proceeded to mix up some 5 minute epoxy
and apply it to the pocket of the left wing half, and the
all sides of the wing joiner. After I let that dry for about
30 minutes, I then mixed up some 30 minute epoxy and applied
it to the joiner pocket in the right wing, the exposed wing
joiner, and the two root ribs. I then slid the two wing halves
together and lined the two halves up, and then wiped off the
excess epoxy, and then taped the wing halves together.
Pin all hinges
only scoring required
next step was installing the aileron servos. I started by attaching
a 12” servo extension to each servo and securing it with
some heat shrink tubing. Inside the servo opening was a string
attached to a piece of balsa, which I pried loose and tied to
the servo extension end. At the root end of the wing is the
other end of the string – this proved to be quite the
challenge to get out, but I eventually got it and pulled the
servo leads through. The servos are mounted on their sides laying
flat in the servo pockets by using the supplied plastic “L”
brackets. After mounting the servos in the wing I mounted the
supplied metal control per the instructions.
step was to install the pre-covered wing hold down plate.
This was not much of a problem and only required scoring the
uncovered side in the center with a xacto knife and then lining
it up with the center seam and the rear of the wing and gluing
it using 5 minute epoxy.
Easy to install, tight fit
Pre-strung wire guide
Rear Stab Assembly:
I moved onto the rear of the fuse for installing the horizontal
stabilizer. I started by removing the covering over the opening
and inserting the stabilizer into the fuselage. I centered
the stabilizer by measuring the distance between the wing
(mounted in the saddle) and the leading edge of the stabilizer.
I checked to make sure that once it was centered it was also
parallel to the wing, which it was and no adjustments were
needed. I then marked around the stabilizer where it met the
fuselage on both sides top and bottom.
then removed the stabilizer from the fuse and removed the
covering about 1/8th of an inch inside the lines I had made.
The instructions said to insert the stabilizer in the fuse
and line it back up and then use CA glue to hold it in position.
I deviated from this a little by using 15 minute epoxy, as
I was a little worried that the CA would not hold or eventually
I then test fit the vertical fin and checked it for square.
Surprisingly again no adjustments were needed. I marked around
the outer edge of the fin and then removed the covering from
the fuselage about 1/8th of an inch inside the drawn line. I
mixed up some 5 minute epoxy and glued the vertical fin in place
and rechecked for square, and then set the fuselage aside to
Geometry could be better
right along I next was ready to install the elevators. I temporarily
installed them with the supplied CA hinges, and aligned the
outboard edge with the end of the stabilizer. I then installed
the supplied metal control horn 1 ¼ inch from the inside
edge of the elevator. This is pretty easy to do and really
doesn't’t require even measuring. If you look closely
under the covering you can see the hardwood block the control
horn mounts to. After mounting the control horn I mounted
the elevators permanently with the CA hinges using about 8
drops on both top and bottoms of each elevator.
Rudder geometric's fine
was the rudder installation. I started by making a mark ¾”
up from the bottom on both sides of the rudder. I then lined
the supplied metal control horns up with the marks and made
sure the hole was directly centered over the hinge line. I
then marked the locations of the holes, and drilled completely
through the rudder making sure to keep the drill straight.
I then mounted the two control horns using 2/56 bolts and
locknuts (these were not supplied). I then hinged the rudder
using the supplied CA hinges and used CA again to attach them.
Nice fit for OS 1.60
engine mount supplied was the nicest one I have ever seen
supplied with an ARF. I started off by mounting the engine
mount to the predrilled holes with the blind nuts already
installed. I clamped the engine to the mounts and trial fit
the cowling to adjust the length of the output shaft of the
O.S. 160 so the prop washer was about 1/8th of an inch outside
the cowl. Once I had this, I marked and the drilled the holes
through the engine mount and bolted the engine to it.
Click image above to see the
CAP 232 in action!
ready to fly this CAP hardly got me any sleep the
night before. Not so much as getting ready, just being
really excited the next day to fly it kept tossing
and turning. Is it going to snap? Is it going to beat
my expectations? Do I have all the throws correct?
Ahhh don't you just love this hobby.
Time to fly this bird. Setting it up was piece of
cake. Just 2 main bolts, fill er' up with 15% and
she's ready to go. You just got to love these OS 1.60
engines. Half a flip and it's cranking. It's a brand
new motor with about 3 tanks through it on the bench.
Dial in the idle trim and she's ready to go. I also
added just a touch of higher then recommended throws
for high rates. Always had low rates if I ran into
trouble, so no worries.
the runway it looks real pretty. Very scale. I was
not that nervous which was really strange. Anyhow
I waited only about 5 seconds till I decided to hit
it. Half throttle to track down. It tracked perfectly
straight, I mean perfectly. Then full power. Tail
went up and I decided for it's first liftoff for a
nice scale takeoff instead of just gunning it.
Got it up to trim it out. Only a click or two and
she was straight and level in it's second flyby. Just
ran the engine for a bit and as usual the OS sounded
and ran like a fine swiss watch. Stayed in low rates
and did a couple slow loops. Really nice tracked perfectly.
Did some cuban 8's again, great tracking and stability
at each turn. So far I'm happy.
OK, enough of that. Let's jam in the high rates and
see what it can do. Did and clean fly-by and jammed
and outside snap roll ... oh crap ... we have a CAP.
Tumbles like nothing I've ever seen in this size plane.
Recovery from the snaps were not that easy, it broke
hard. Quick change to low rates and it just recovered
so nice. So now I decided to do the high rate test.
Fly along straight and level and jam the elevator
into a loop. Too much throw as it wanted to snap pretty
I kind of figured that as I was over the recommended
throws for high rates. So now I figure lets see how
hot this plane performs on low rates. Low rates are
pretty low, 3/4" except for rudder.
So I start hitting the basic 3D moves and to my surprise
it could amazing aerobatics on low rates. I thought
this was too good to be true. This plane could flatspin,
waterfall and even hang on the prop on low rates.
Blenders, same thing, the plane just likes low rates.
Something I'm not too used to seeing.
After few minutes of fun, dead stick. I was thinking
cool, what better fun then an unpredicted dead stick
on it's maiden. I shot the plane down real quick,
get it as close to the ground as soon as possible.
Got it into the wind and lined up for the runway.
Getting ready for anything. Comes in, passes me and
just keeps going, this plane does not want to land.
Kept gliding real nice and finally settled at just
over a walking pace. HOLY COW, never could I ever
imagine it would land so slow. It beat my expectations
and then some with landing. It was the big baby like
I read. Landed no different and no faster then a Superstar
trainer. Very impressed. Found out the muffler hose
to the tank came off. On a well broken in engine,
they usually keep going. On a brand new engine, usually
needs that extra vacuum to keep it purring.
Brought it in, filled it right back up. I lowered
the high rates to manual specs. Took it back up and
just had fun. It still wanted to break a little with
high rates, but what fun it was. Just a real pretty
plane in the air too. Almost the perfect scale plane.
Not over exaggerated like most of the big Edge's and
Extra's I've flown.
kept going through the motions. Knife edges are really
nice. Had very slight coupling, but held them rock solid
straight across the sky. Flatspins are not so tight,
seen better, but still real nice. Inverted flat spins
tend to cross over at full throw, so you have to find
the sweet spot. Once you find it, it will flatspin inverted
with the best of them, which is common for inverted
to do better. Blenders are wild of course and once you
find that sweet spot for the flatspin, you going to
have fun with them. Waterfalls could be tighter, but
again, effortless and no rudder required. Overall couldn't
be happier. The plane over came in real close to what
I thought it would do based on the hype. You have to
be careful on high rates, however the plane just does
not need them. It will fly scale aerobatics and 3D on
low rates just fine.
I'm very happy with my new CAP 232. The quality of the ARF
is top notch. Building could not be more simple unless it
came ready to fly like some of the trainers. However I was
slightly disappointed by the fact it was incomplete. Most
of the 25% ARF's and smaller that I have purchased have pretty
much come with all included hardware. Even if half the time
I have switched the hardware, it's still nice to see it in
the box. I would have also liked to have seen a 2 piece wing.
I'm starting to see 2 piece wings on even the .40 size planes
now, seems that several companies are starting to catch on.
On it's flight performance, the hype was about 95% accurate,
it is a big baby and it does land at a crawl with no power
required for touchdown. It's as stable if not more so then
any other 70"-80" wing spanned aircraft I have ever
flown. Wild and crazy on high rates, a gentle flyer on low.
Overall I'd say it's well worth the money. If it ever goes
in and joins some of my other planes in RC heaven, I would
probably not hesitate to purchase another. Lines are real
nice including the airfoiled tail section. Manufacturing of
the plane is near perfect. I don't think I would really change
anything on how it was manufactured. Again the only real miss
is the incomplete hardware, however having to only spend about
6 hours total assembling it made up for the extra spent to
get it finished.
The comments, observations and conclusions made in this review are solely with respect to the particular item the editor reviewed and may not apply generally to similar products by the manufacturer. We cannot be responsible for any manufacturer defects in workmanship or other deficiencies in products like the one featured in the review.