RCU Review: Great Planes U-Can-Do 3D - 60


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    Contributed by: Marc Vigod | Published: October 2002 | Views: 200161 | email icon Email this Article | PDFpdf icon
    Great Planes
    U-CAN-DO-3D ARF
    Review by Marc Vigod (RCadmin)
    Specifications:

    Intro

    One of the latest rages in RC is the funfly 3D type of plane. These planes are capable of doing all sorts of extreme maneuvers such as walls, harriers, knife edge loops, knife edge spins, waterfalls and of course hovering to mention just a few.

    Great Planes latest addition to this very exciting area of RC is the U-CAN-DO-3D. While some may think this to be an unusual name it in fact tells all about what this plane is about in those 4 little words.

    The U-CAN-DO-3D is capable of performing these extreme types of 3D flying and it also makes it rather easy to do for the less experienced pilots. The fuselage has a generous profile and the tail moments are generous. Couple this with a thick airfoil, lots of wing area, low wing loading and huge control surfaces and you have one outstanding 3D fun fly plane!

    I received my U-CAN-DO and was very excited to get started on the assembly. This is an ARF model so only the final assembly is required such as hinging, radio & motor installation. All the structure of the model comes prebuilt and covered in Top Flite Monokote with a sharp looking red, white and blue on the top while the bottom of the wing has red & white checkerboards.

    Ok...it's time to get started with the assembly process and then off to the field to fly the U-CAN-DO-3D!


    Hits
    Misses
    • Fast easy assembly
    • Excellent instruction manual
    • Attractive trim scheme & color
    • Bolt on rear stabilizer
    • Extensive quality hardware package
    • Fiberglass Cowl & wheel pants
    • Awesome 3D aerobatics
    • Slow speed flying characteristics
    • Right Thrust was not built into firewall
    • Aileron pushrods (see text)

    Kit Features
    Required Items
    • Fully covered wing, fuselage, tail
    • Fuel tank, tubing, clunk
    • Spinner
    • Motor mount & bolts
    • Pushrods
    • Pre painted fiberglass cowl
    • Pre painted wheel pants
    • Canopy
    • Decals
    • Steerable tail wheel
    • Wing bolts, control horns, clevises.
    • Other assorted hardware
    • 4 channel radio with 6 servos
    • 2-stroke .61-.91 cu in (10-15cc) or 4-stroke .70-.91 cu in (11.5-15 cc)
    • Servo Wire Extensions
    • Fuel Tubing
    • CA glue, epoxy, loctite thread lock
    • Propeller
    • Standard building tools


    Assembly of the U-CAN-DO-3D

    LEFT: The parts complete as they come out of the box!

    RIGHT: Read the entire A+ instruction manual by clicking image

    As with any kit or ARF the first step is to unpack everything carefully. In the above image to the left you can see all the pieces included along with accessories exactly as they come out of the box. The fuselage, wing, tail feathers & control surfaces are all prebuilt and covered. The fiberglass cowl and wheel pants are pre painted. The instruction manual provided is extremely well done. Step by step pictures through each phase of assembly are provided with clear written instructions. The instruction manual was a "hit" in my opinion. Click here to read the manual.


    WING ASSEMBLY

    The U-CAN-DO's wings come prejoined so it's not necessary to even join the wings! So what's left to finish up the wing you ask? Not very much so let's get started. First step is to glue in the provided wing dowels. I cut the covering to reveal the predrilled holes in the leading edge of the wing and used some Titebond wood glue to glue in both dowels

    Wing dowels on center leading edge of wing (click images for full size)

    LEFT: CA Hinges used for both ailerons

    RIGHT: Servo installation

    The manual is so good it not only tells you to CA the hinges but gives you the proper technique and details for doing so. To those who are unfamiliar with CA hinges this is very helpful. Included in the kit is one CA hinge strip which is 2"x9" and you must cut out eight 3/4" x 1" [19 x 25mm] hinges from the strip. This is easily done with an exacto or razor blade. Once the strips were cut the I followed the directions outlined in the instruction manual to glue all the hinges in place.

    The next step is to mount the aileron servos, pushrods and control horns. I cut the covering away from the precut hole in the wing where the servos will be placed. In the photo above to the right you can see the cutout waiting for the aileron servo. String is threaded through the wing so you can easily tie onto the servo wire and pull through to the center. Note the heat shrink tubing over the servo extension.

    CARBON FIBER PUSHROD DETAIL

    Next I installed the control horns and pushrods. Provided with the kit are metal 2-56 pushrods & plastic clevis's. With the large ailerons and fairly long length of the run from servo output arm to control horn I decided to use some carbon fiber pushrods with titanium ends. For the connectors I chose Dubro's Heavy Duty Clevis with keepers. I had always heard about carbon fiber pushrods but never actually used them so this was a good chance for me to test them out and write about them for other readers who might not have tried them yet.

    The carbon fiber pushrods & titanium ends are extremely light, strong and rigid and readily available from Art's Hobby which is where I obtained mine from. This pushrod setup would guarantee there would be no bending or play possible during high stress maneuvers. The 2-56 might be sufficient but I felt more comfortable with this setup or one could simply use 4-40 rods if not comfortable with the 2-56.

    LEFT: Carbon Fiber Rod & Titanium End ready for assembly

    RIGHT: Aileron servo installation with CF pushrod

    Assembly of the CF (carbon fiber) rods is simple. Just cut to length and then glue the fitting which has "barbs" on one end and threads on the other into the CF rod. The fit is perfect. The barbed end goes into the rod with either JB Weld or 30 minute epoxy. Once dry install the clevis of your choice. The completed setup is shown in the picture above and to the right. It's easy, fast and very strong!

    To complete the assembly of the wing I glued the belly pan on with some 5 minute epoxy. First I bolted the wing onto the fuselage and then lined up the belly pan with some glue on the bottom of it. Once the glue had set I used some masking tape on each side of the bellypan between the wing and the fuse so I could lay down a filet of 5 minute epoxy to both seal & strengthen the bond. After smoothing the filet with the end of a popsicle stick I quickly removed the tape before the epoxy began to set.

    Belly Pan gets glued to the bottom of wing with 5 minute epoxy.

    That completes the assembly of the wing so we are onto the fuselage!


    FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY

    Assembly of the fuselage on the U-CAN-DO-3D begins with the tail feathers. First I cut the covering to release the stab hold down block

    LEFT: Covering cut away for fin and stab

    RIGHT: Fin with covering removed ready to glue

    LEFT: Stabilizer bolted in place (note holes which have 2 socket head bolts inside)

    RIGHT: Tailwheel glued in rear of fuse

    I stripped away the covering from the rudder as needed using a soldering iron so I would not score the wood which will weaken it. I then applied epoxy to the fin in and glued it into the slot. Before the glue was set I checked to be sure the surfaces were properly aligned. Once I was satisfied with the alignment I cleaned off the excess epoxy with some alcohol. The horizontal stab is then bolted on with the supplied hex screws. Control surfaces are attached using CA hinges. Finally the tail wheel is glued into the rear of the fuselage and the tail wheel & retaining collar installed.


    Wheel pants

    The wheel pants come pre-painted and are constructed of a solid fiberglass material. The assembly is straightforward and results in a strong assembly.

    First I laminated the 2 pieces of plywood with some Great Planes thin CA glue to create one thicker piece which has the large hole on one side. I then cut a 1/2" hole in the wheel pant to accommodate the shaft and glued the laminated piece of wood into the wheel pant so the holes lined up. I then drilled 2 holes into the wheel pant and through the aluminum landing gear to accommodate the small sheet metal screws which keep the pants from rotating and secure it to the gear itself. I then assembled the entire pants assembly on both sides to the aluminum landing gear and bolted the entire assembly to the fuselage with the supplied screws.




    MOUNTING THE ENGINE

    Mounting the engine is next. For power in the U-CAN-DO-3D I chose the strong and reliable O.S. FS-91 II Surpass

    O.S. FS-91 II Surpass

    Measure 5 7/8" from firewall

    I first mounted the supplied Great Planes motor mount to the firewall loosely per the instructions. Then I fit the motor into the mount adjusting the spreader bars to fit the motor. I then clamped the motor onto the mount and measured exactly 5 7/8" to the back of the spinner back plate.

    Great Planes Dead Center Hole Locator tool

    Mark holes for engine bolts

    Using the Great Planes Dead Center Hole Locator tool I marked the mount for drilling. I drilled the holes and decided to use my own 8-32 socket head bolts and lock nuts to secure the motor to the mount. Supplied with the kit were 8-32 bolts but I didn't have a tap handy at the time but either method would work fine.

    OS FS-91 II Surpass Closer Look
    O.S. FS-91 II Surpass

    Four Stroke power for the U-CAN-DO-3D

    The OS 91 four stroke motor is a ringed piston motor which puts out 1.6bhp while weighing in at only 23 oz with muffler. It's practical rpm range is 2,000 to 12,000 rpm. Full specifications are below:

    • Bore: 27.7mm (1.09")
    • Stroke: 24.8mm (.976")
    • Displacement: 14.95cc (0.912 cubic inch)
    • Power Output: 1.6 BHP at 11,000 rpm
    • Practical RPM Range: 2,000 - 12,000 rpm
    • Crankshaft Thread Size: 5/16" x 24
    • Weight: w/o muffler- 21.3 oz (603g) with muffler- 23.0 oz (655g)

    The manufacturer recommends this motor be run on fuel containing 5% to 15% nitromethane and oil content at a minimum of 18%. I chose to use Wildcat Fuel with 15% nitro and 18% synthetic oil as I've found it runs extremely well in all my motors and especially the 4 strokes. The synthetic oil helps to keep the 4 stroke cleaner while castor can gum them up over time.

    One of the advantages of the 4 stroke motors are fuel economy. With the supplied fuel tank in the U-CAN-DO-3D flight times with this motor should be in the 10-18 minute range depending more on throttle usage for the longer time quoted. Other advantages are that they are quieter, have more torque and can swing a larger prop. Of course they also have a cool sound.

    Props recommended by the mfg. for the OS 91FS are:
    Stunt planes: 11X11-12, 12X10-12, 13X9
    Scale models: 13.5X8, 14X7, 15X6, 16X6, (12X8 & 12.5X7-3 blade)

    Per the recommendation in the manual I used a 15x6 prop to get "matched" performance from the motor/plane combo.


    This version II of the OS 91 sports more power than its former model and comes with a full 2 year warranty from OS.

    Performance on mine was excellent. It ran right out of the box and started on the 3rd flip by hand! Plenty of power and I have still not fully broken this motor in. It starts right up without the need for an electric starter & I found it very user friendly to setup & adjust. It makes a great combination with the U-CAN-DO-3D or any other plane which requires a powerful & reliable .91 size four stroke.

    Download the manual in PDF format - Click here

    LEFT: View before adding right thrust

    RIGHT: View after washers added for 2 degrees right thrust

    The instruction manual notes that the center line is offset to the left side to accommodate for right thrust. There should also be 2 degrees of right thrust built into the firewall but on my model the thrust line was dead center and the firewall mounted square. To fix this I put 2 washers behind the motor mount on the left side and shifted visually the motor mount to allow the motor to exit through the center of the cowl. The pictures above show this in detail.

    REMOTE GLOW IGNITER & GREAT PLANES FUELER CLOSER LOOK

    I am giving a bit more detail in this review as I tried several items that I had not used before. These are all the little items or gadgets that make things either easier to set the plane up or to use when at the field. The 2 items I'll discuss here in this section are the Great Planes Easy Fueler Filler Valve & the Kavan Remote Glow Plug Igniter.

    GREAT PLANES EASY FUELER FILLER VALVE

    The first item, the GP Easy Fueler Filler Valve, is something I needed due to the enclosed cowl. This simple little device makes it ever so easy to fuel and defuel your plane on the field. It consists of the fueler, washer, nut and filler nipple. Using one of the Great Planes Handy Mounts designed for the filler I mounted the valve to the mount & the mount to the firewall with some epoxy. Note: fuelproof the handy mount before gluing to firewall or installing filler valve. To finish I attached one line to the carb and the other to the fuel line to going to the tank.

    LEFT: Great Planes Easy Fueler Filler Valve

    RIGHT: Filler valve & igniter installed

    To use the filler you attach the supplied special filler device to your fuel line from your supply and insert it into the valve. Simple, elegant and easy.


    KAVAN REMOTE GLOW PLUG IGNITER

    LEFT: Remote glow igniter fastened to inside of cowl

    RIGHT: Parts layout for Kavan remote glow plug igniter

    Pictured above is the Kavan Deluxe Remote Glow Plug Igniter. This allows you to simply attach your glow igniter to the connector on the outside of the cowl which is very convenient, easy to use and sharp looking. Without a remote igniter a larger hole would need to be cut in the cowl and attaching the igniter is difficult on inverted motors.

    Remote igniter on motor. Note boot on glow plug and ground

    Installation is simple. Attach the remote assembly to the cowl using the supplied screw. Attach the remote igniter to the inside of the aluminum housing of the remote assembly with the black wire under the bolt for the ground. The red wire goes into the center of the remote igniter. On the other side the black spark plug jacket goes over the glow plug and the other side of the black wire gets grounded under an engine mounting bolt. 2 connectors are supplied to make the assembly removable if you prefer. I cut the extra length of wire and soldered the connectors to the wire and this way the cowl can be completely removed away from the model.

    The finished product! Clean looking & easy to use!

    Final items to finish up the fuselage include assembling the fuel tank, cutting the cowl for the motor, installing hardwood blocks for the cowl, mounting the canopy & installing the radio. Let's finish her up and get to the field!

    The fuel tank is assembled per the instructions and then installed inside the forward part of the fuselage behind the motor. A balsa block is glued behind it to hold it in place. I then glued the hardwood blocks for mounting the cowl onto the firewall. Once the glue cured I test fit the cowl and drilled holes for the cowl mounting screws.

    I then used some cardboard as a template taped to the fuselage to determine where to cut the holes in the cowl as seen in the image below to the left. The cowl was cutout for the muffler, remote igniter, fuel filler, needle valve and in the front for the air intake for cooling the motor using a Dremel Rotary Drum Sander. I then installed a Hobbico Voltwatch on the canopy deck which is a great safety device to keep an eye on your voltage. After the Voltwatch was mounted I installed the canopy using the supplied sheet metal screws and to seal it to the fuse some black electrical tape.

    Template used to mark hole locations in cowl Voltwatch installed under canopy Air inlet cut into the cowl for cooling motor


    RADIO INSTALLATION

    I chose the Futaba 9CAP system for the U-CAN-DO-3D specifically. The radio includes a PCM rx and 4 standard S3001 servos. I opted for coreless Futaba S9001 servos for the ailerons as they had a bit more torque & speed over standards and the Futaba S9151 digital servo for the rudder. The S9151 has very high torque, speed, excellent centering and precision & with a large rudder I wanted to have the added benefits of the digital. In addition I wanted to take advantage of some of the advanced mixing the 9C's are capable of such as flaperon mixing slaved to the elevators, ailevators (elevators that act as ailerons) and flaps.

    I glued the supplied throttle servo tray in the fuse as per the instructions. The I installed the throttle pushrod using the supplied hardware. The throttle servo was then mounted in the tray in line with the pushrod to minimize strain on the servo. A standard Futaba S3001 was used for this application.

    Throttle servo installation

    The battery I chose was a Hydrimax 1650mah nickel metal hydride due to it's light weight and extra capacity. With 6 servos (one of them digital which draws more current) I wanted plenty of reserve power and the Hydrimax fits the bill perfectly. The battery was wrapped in foam and strapped to the rear most part of the fuselage as I had done a preliminary balance check on the Great Planes CG Machine so I knew it needed to go far back.

    Battery strapped to rear most part of fuse
    Futaba 9CAP Closer Look

    The Futaba 9CAP system consists of the Futaba 9C Transmitter, a FP-R149DP Micro RX (Dual Conversion), four S3001 servos, switch, nicads & charger.

    The system is capable of transmitting in both PCM and PPM & features 8 model memory. By adding the CAMpac model memory you can increase the model memory to 14 models. It features a memory backup chip which allows the radio to keep its settings when the battery is removed for cycling. It has programming for airplanes, heli's and gliders. This radio can also be setup for triple rates.

    Most notable on this system when looking at it is the programming dial. I wasn't too sure about this feature until I actually tried it. Once I tried it I found it surprisingly simple to use and wonder why every radio that has programming doesn't use this. It's much simpler and faster than the buttons.

    The programming menus are clear and straightforward. It is easy to program both the simple parameters such as end points, reversing and sub-trims as well as advanced features like dual rates, expo, ailevator mixing, flaperons & programmable mixes.

    The transmitter itself has a very good feel to it and the sticks are user adjustable. The LCD screen is large and very easy to read.

    Some of the advanced features are:

    • Flaperon/flap trim (2 wing servos, ch's 1&6, can move as flaps)
    • Aileron Differential (2 wing servos, ch'2 1&7, no flap movement)
    • AIL2 provides the option to use a 5-ch servo with either.
    • Elevon (flying wing, 2 servos, operate together as ail & elev)
    • Ailevator (2 elevator servos, chs 2&8, can move as ailerons)
    • V-tail (2 angled tail surfaces, 2 servos, move as elev & rud)
    • Snap Roll function with up to 4 separate snaps selectable in flight

    Programmable mixes on the 9C in airplane mode include elevator-to-flap, Airbrake/Crow, throttle-needle Throttle Delay & 5 programmable linear mixes (2 for heli).

    The 9C has many more powerful features for airplanes, gliders and heli's. Too many to list in this "closer look". For more information on the Futaba 9C system check out the Futaba Website at:

    http://www.futaba-rc.com

    Extensions were added to all the rudder & elevator servos with shrink wrap applied to the connectors for security. They were then installed into the precut slots at the rear of the fuselage. As I did for the aileron I also used the carbon fiber pushrods with titanium ends for the rudder instead of the supplied 2-56 rods. This rod is stiff and light making it perfect for the longer run from the rudder servo to the control horn. I used all the supplied 2-56 rods & hardware for the elevators.

    LEFT: Rudder and elevator servos. CF rod on rudder.

    RIGHT: 2nd Elevator servo

    Finally I connected all the servo leads to the receiver and then wrapped the receiver in some foam and mounted it using plenty of foam directly in front of the battery. I bolted on the wing again & put the U-CAN-DO on the Great Planes CG Machine with the CG set to 4 7/8 per the manual. It was still slightly nose heavy so I removed one of the elevator servos and put in 3/4 ounce stick on lead weights inside the fuse and it balanced perfectly.

    Checking balance on the Great Planes CG Machine

    POSING TIME
    Completed U-CAN-DO-3D Ready For Flight
    FRONT VIEW

    FRONT QUARTER
    SIDE VIEW OF THE
    U-CAN-DO-3D
    REAR QUARTER OF THE
    U-CAN-DO-3D
    REAR VIEW OF THE
    U-CAN-DO-3D

    Radio Setup, Flight Testing and Evaluation
    Radio Setup

    With all the servos installed it was time to setup the radio. First all the end points are set for maximum allowable travel to take advantage of the full resolution of the radio. Next I activated mixes since I used direct runs from both the ailerons & elevators to the receiver instead of a Y connector.

    I activated flaperons so the ailerons could be plugged into separate channels for the advanced mixing functions. I then used the programmable mixes to slave one elevator to the master elevator. This is how I achieved having switchable ailevators. I used a mix to slave the elevators to the ailerons when the switch was activated. If you use the radios ailevator feature than ailevators are not switchable but always on.

    I also set up the ailerons to act as flaps using the left hand slider (on a switch to activate) and also on a switch slaved to the elevator so the flaperons would work in conjunction with the elevators for tight loops. Programming this in the 9C turns out to be a relatively easy task.

    Finally I setup all the control surfaces high & low rates per the instruction manual.


    Finally we move onto the best part of the U-CAN-DO-3D, the FLYING! I was very excited to get the plane out for it's maiden flight. The day came and the weather was cooperating so I packed up the plane and my camera and headed to the field.

    MAIDEN FLIGHT

    The OS 91FS II was brand new but it started right up on the 3rd flip by hand. I ran the motor for a few minutes on the ground on the rich side and decided to do the rest of the breaking in right in the air. I taxied out and pointed her into the wind. Took one deep breath and gave her full throttle. The plane quickly picked up speed and was airborne in no time and required virtually no rudder input to keep it heading straight. (Note: video of takeoff at bottom of flight review section)

    I made a procedure turn to the right and headed straight back to check the trim. The plane required absolutely no trim changes! This is only the 2nd time in my RC career that this has been the case. I flew around the field varying the throttle and taking it easy on the 1st flight to be nice to the brand new motor. After about 10 minutes I decided to come into land. I lined her up to the runway and brought her in for a beautiful landing. The plane will slow down to a crawl for landing and floats so well it almost refuses to come back to earth! Slow speed stability is phenomenal.

    WRING IT OUT FLIGHTS. TIME FOR 3D!

    After the maiden I inspected the aircraft and all the linkages as I always do with new aircraft. All looked ok so I fueled her up for flights number 2,3 and 4 of the day. These flights weren't as tame as the maiden!

    I still had the motor running well on the rich side but decided to see what the U-CAN-DO-3D could do. First I went for a hover. A short bit of background though on my hovering capability. Prior to this day I had only been able to hover 2 of my planes for 5-10 seconds at best until they fell out or I lost orientation. The UCD is sold as a plane where us "normal" pilots can push the 3D envelope. Well it's not just marketing jargon. I had the plane hovering for 25-40 seconds with about 1/3 the effort it took me on my other planes. The OS motor hovered the plane at a little over half throttle even at the rich setting. The plane is very stable in the hover and easy to correct when it tries to fall out. Very amazing. Also, it will not rocket out of the hover but will pull out of it well with the OS FS-90. I plan to test 2 other props and lean the motor for peak rpm after break-in to see how much faster I can get pull out from a hover as this motor is still very new & being run rich.

    Next I tried some tight loops with the flaperons mixed into the elevator. Loops both inside and outside were extremely tight as in the nose chasing the tail. There was no tendency for the plane to snap out of it. Video footage of this is at the bottom of this section.

    I tested the ailevator mix next but could not see a difference when they were activated. I'm not sure what maneuvers where ailevators would come into play but would be curious to find out still.

    I then tested some high rate rolls which are extremely fast. Slow speed flight is just awesome. I activated the flaps and put them down and pointed her in the wind at 1/8th throttle or a little under and this plane basically stood motionless in the air for as long as I wanted it to at just a slight nose up attitude. Video footage of this is at the bottom of this section.

    Inverted flight required only a touch of down elevator. I tried to stall the U-CAN-DO-3D but found it practically impossible to do so. I held the nose up and chopped the throttle but the plane just keeps flying. If you can get it to stall the recovery is so fast it's hard to tell you stalled. A lot of confidence is inspired as this plane has so many good tendencies and very few bad ones.

    One tendency the aircraft did exhibit though that some will want to be aware of or program out with their radio is the coupling on the rudder. In knife edge the plane was tucking toward the belly so I had to compensate for the coupling. This plane will do knife edge loops quite easily as well as high alpha knife edge fly by's but you will have to compensate for some roll & pitch coupling either manually or by mixing it out.

    I was able to perform, using high rates, some wild lomcevaks and also spins. I was not able to get it to flat spin in my first 6 test flights but may have to push the CG back a little. I've heard of others who have done knife edge spins even with the U-CAN-DO3D!

    All the words in the world don't do the UCD as much justice as seeing some video so for our website viewers I have shot some digital video of the U-CAN-DO-3D going through some of it's paces. You can click any of the icons below to view the videos. They are all in RealPlayer Format. If you do not have the player on your computer you can download it free at www.real.com

    GREAT PLANES U-CAN-DO-3D VIDEOS
    RealPlayer Format
    (Click "Real" Logo in the top left corner below to download realplayer free if needed)

    3D Montage!
    Takeoff
    Hover
    Hover
    Loop
    Knife Edge
    Landing

    Also, an excellent video of RCU member "Mecam" doing the hover
    with the U-CAN-DO can be seen by clicking this link
    (Windows Media Player Format - 7.2MB)

    FINAL WORDS

    Great Planes has a smash hit with the U-CAN-DO-3D. This plane seems to garner attention both at the field from onlookers as well as in the RCU forums. At the time of this review the U-CAN-DO-3D thread is the #2 most viewed & replied to topic since RCU opened it's doors.

    All these accolades are well deserved. The quality of the kit along with the outstanding 3D performance where even non expert pilots are made to look like expert pilots makes the U-CAN-DO-3D a big winner. Slow speed tendencies are outstanding and inspire confidence. The U-CAN-DO is going to be a tough act to follow.

    If you like aerobatic, 3D & fun fly planes get a hold of one of these planes right now and find out what the excitement is really all about. As their ad says "The name says it all".

    REVIEW RATINGS

    Kit Quality

    (1=Not so good, 5 = Excellent)

    Packaging Quality:

    1 2 3 4 5

    Construction Quality: 1 2 3 4 5
    Hardware Quality: 1 2 3 4 5
    Quality of Manual: 1 2 3 4 5
    Ease of Assembly: 1 2 3 4 5
    Completeness of Kit: 1 2 3 4 5
    Covering Quality 1 2 3 4 5
    Flight Characteristics
    Take-Off: 1 2 3 4 5
    Landing: 1 2 3 4 5
    Basic Aerobatics (loops, rolls, etc.): 1 2 3 4 5
    Advanced Aerobatics (snap roll, spins, etc.): 1 2 3 4 5
    Stall Characteristics: 1 2 3 4 5

    FIRST UPDATE REPORT 12/19/02

    Since the original review I've had more opportunity to fly the U-CAN-DO-3D. The flying characteristics and fun factor continue to get very high marks in my book. I however did not get enough good weather yet here in the north to test the plane out with a more rearward CG around 6" back. Field reports say that this will increase the planes ability to perform some of the more advanced 3D maneuvers and cut down on some of the rudder coupling. I will try this in the spring and report on it.

    After numerous flights following the original review the aircraft has held up well without any issues. A few spots of covering wrinkled on the fuselage but that is common it seems with most of my aircraft sitting in my cold basement during the winter. An iron tightens it back up quite easily.

    I also put on an APC 15x6 prop onto the OS 90FS II motor after it was fully broken in. The prop, plane, motor combo seems to work very well and I'm going to stick with it. I could not find a 2 1/4" spinner to accomodate the large APC prop so I turned to Tru-Turn to see if a custom cut spinner could be made. Fortunately the answer was yes! For those who are propping this plane with larger motors and props the Tru-Turn spinner was about the only thing I could find to fit a prop this large while being a small diameter cone. Since Tru-Turn is known for quality aluminum spinners I was ecstatic they could custom cut a spinner for my prop.

    Tru-Turn Spinner to the rescue!

    Until the next update...


    Manufacturer & Distributor Information

    Great Planes Model Distributors
    P.O. Box 9021
    Champaign, IL 61826-9021 USA
    Phone: 217-398-3630 Fax: 217-398-0008
    Website: www.greatplanes.com
    email: productsupport@greatplanes.com
    U-CAN-DO-3D, GP Easy Fuel Filler Valve, Handy Mounts, Fuel Filter, Epoxy, CA, GP CG Machine

    Futaba Corporation of America
    Distributed Exclusively in the U.S.A., Canada and Mexico by:
    Great Planes Model Distributors
    P.O. Box 9021; Champaign, IL 61826-9021
    Website: www.futaba-rc.com
    Product: Futaba 9CAP system, digital & coreless servos

    Hobbico, Inc.
    Distributed Exclusively in the U.S.A., Canada and Mexico by:
    Great Planes Model Distributors
    P.O. Box 9021; Champaign, IL 61826-9021
    Website: www.hobbico.com
    Product: Hydrimax NiMh Battery

    OS Engines
    Distributed Exclusively in the U.S.A., Canada and Mexico by:
    Great Planes Model Distributors
    P.O. Box 9021; Champaign, IL 61826-9021
    Website: www.osengines.com
    Product: OS FS-91 II Glow Engine

    Art's Hobby, L.L.C.
    PO BOX 871564, Canton, MI 48187
    Phone: 734-455-1927 Fax: 413-618-8961
    Website: www.arts-hobby.com
    Products: Carbon Fiber Pushrods & Titanium Ends

    Hobby Lobby International
    5614 Franklin Pike Circle
    Brentwood, N.J. 37027
    USA
    Tel: 615-373-1444
    Email: sales@hobby-lobby.com
    Web Site: www.hobby-lobby.com
    Product: Kavan Remote Glow Plug Igniter

    Dubro, Inc.
    480 Bonner Road, Wauconda, IL 60084
    Phone: 800-848-9411
    Website: www.dubro.com
    Products: Heavy Duty Clevis w/keepers

    Tru-Turn (Romco Mfg., Inc.)
    100 West 1st Street
    Deer Park, Texas, 77536

    Phone: 281-479-9600
    Website: www.tru-turn.com
    email: questions@tru-turn.com

    Comments on RCU Review: Great Planes U-Can-Do 3D - 60

    Posted by: PJ2008 on 03/01/2008
    Excellent article by Mark Vigod. I would like to add a few more hits/misses: Hits: lightweight airframe,firewall and interiors are well protected by epoxycoat, good lazer cut precision and pre-assembly (the wing and wingbolts fit perfectly) misses: landing gear holes should be predrilled. landing gear design should be simplified for easier installation. i find this part relatively most troublesome. canopy should be precut.and firewall studs for the cowling should be pre-mounted. I find the graphic design doing injustice to the overall flight performance. no-class. overall an excellent 5 star plane.
    Posted by: laughingseahorse on 08/22/2009
    does this plane come with a motor and servos?
    Posted by: laughingseahorse on 08/22/2009
    does this plane come with a motor and servos?
    Posted by: marcv on 08/22/2009
    You must supply motor and servos
    Posted by: ES CONTROL on 02/02/2010

    Posted by: ES CONTROL on 02/02/2010

    Posted by: ES CONTROL on 02/02/2010
    Great Plans- has fixed the fire wall problem. and added some reinforcement to landing gear mount. I still added screws and glue
    Posted by: mansvoice-RCU on 12/18/2010
    Really!!?..I just bought one, and the landing gear and firewall as well as the former behind the servo mounts needed to be completely rebuilt in order to be airworthy...What a piece of crap..Great Planes should recall them all
    Page: 1
    The comments, observations and conclusions made in this review are solely with respect to the particular item the editor reviewed and may not apply generally to similar products by the manufacturer. We cannot be responsible for any manufacturer defects in workmanship or other deficiencies in products like the one featured in the review.

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