Laser-cut balsa & plywood construction.
Once piece wing (pre-joined, glassed, and pre-mounted)
and built- up two ? piece stabilizer.
beveled control surfaces.
Factory applied Oracover covering with vinyl graphics.
Pan / Cowl: Precision matched pre-painted fiberglass.
Pants: Pre-painted fiberglass.
Pre-formed and tinted.
Gear: Molded pre-painted composite. (Fixed to the fuselage)
Aileron Servos / Pull-Pull Rudder
Slots: Pre-slotted for ?easy-type? CA hinges
Time: Ready to fly in 10 ? 12 hours.
I won't be competing in FAI world-class competitions, I
can take advance of using some cost-effective parts. Typically,
the power level requirements for competitive F3A are an
incredible 230watts/lb to 250watts/lb! My setup will provide
about 160-170 watts/lb which will reduce the cost considerably
while still providing my Icepoint with an impressive power
level for maneuvers.
is my power system setup:
Advance PLUS 77-amp Opto ESC (modified)
SKYVOLTS 8s 3.2AH packs (two 4-cell packs in series)
Programmable Digital Servos (168oz/in)
16x10 or 17x10 e-prop
my initial Icepoint setup, I am trying to extend the operation
of the Jeti 77-amp Opto ESC by using a few suggestions from
our friend in Finland, Hannu Vuorinen. In order to push
the Jeti 77-amp Opto ESC to the limits, I attached an extra
0.1oz finned heatsink using JB Weld.
I removed the shrink wrap (which will help cool things already)
and sanded the surfaces of my Jeti heatsink and the finned
heatsink. The JB Weld is like a metallic epoxy that dries
super hard and is conductive to heat. While this procedure
voids the Jeti warranty, I have never needed to return any
of my dozens of Jeti ESCs. You can purchase light aluminum
heatsinks like this one at Radio Shack or surplus electronics
Icepoint has a large belly pan that air flows through for
the tuned pipe so I will use this to both hide and cool
the modified ESC to provide burst performance up to 2000
Icepoint arrives in one BIG 7' long box! Initially, I thought
there may have been shipping damage because the outside
box had several large holes in it. After I removed the outer
box, I opened the inner box and was surprised to see such
amazing quality in the packaging. The inner box was framed
with crate wood. The Icepoint fuselage and one-piece wing
were tightly wrapped in protective bubble-wrap and then
supported by custom foam ends.
Parts and Quality:
model is built strong yet light. I observed no defects in
either the construction or finish. The Icepoint construction
is highly integrated so there are few parts in the kit.
manual was carefully written and contains clear color photos.
The Icepoint building time is very short so it can be made
ready to fly in only 10 ? 12 hours
Icepoint is designed for a YS 1.40 with a tuned pipe in
such a way that only part of the engine resides in the main
start the assembly, I jumped to my favorite part of mounting
the motor. The Icepoint is designed for a YS 1.40 with a
tuned pipe in such a way that only part of the engine resides
in the main balsa area. This design, combined with sturdy
plywood formers, left a smaller than usual space available
for an outrunner. Another good choice for this model would
be an in-line geared motor like the Hacker B50 or C50 Acro.
Fortunately, my Actro 40-4 motor has a thinner profile than
the AXI 5330 motor and just fits inside perfectly!
started by removing the thin plywood brace across the bottom
and marked the position of the plywood mount for my Actro
mounted my Actro motor using the Actro Rubber Damper Shock
Mounts and some 4mm t-nuts for the plywood end.
used 4mm nuts with washers on the G-10 (circuit board) end
that comes mounted to the Actro motor.
ordered a 2-3/4" White CBA Spinner from Tower Hobbies
to match the nose. While I wait for my spinner to arrive,
I decided to get back on the manual assembly sequence and
start the rudder/tailwheel assembly. The tailwheel assembled
without issue and the rudder was attached to the vertical
stabilizer using the stock CA hinges.
rudder uses a pull-pull control system with steel cables.
My Hitec HS-5645MG servos provide 168oz/in torque on 6v
so i'll have plenty of power and accuracy for my rudder
elevator assembly is quite easy. I like the idea of hidden
control horns from a top view. The elevator was glued in
place using two drops of thin CA on each side of the hinges.
The seam between the elevator and the stabilizer was straight
Icepoint horns mounted easily by first drilling some pilot
holes for the screws and then gluing them in place with
either CA or white glue.
6v UBEC is wired in parallel with the battery connector.
The higher voltage makes the servos stronger and faster.
I add a second layer of shrink tubing around the Dean's
Ultra connectors to assist in unplugging them. Typically,
I run the output of the UBEC to a Tower Hobbies System 3000
On/Off Switch assembly since it is a "plug-n-play"
safety solution. The motor will remain disabled when no
voltage is fed to the Opto ESC control inputs.
Jeti Advance PLUS ESCs are extremely easy to program. You
first set the jumpers on the Programming Card for your preferences,
connect the ESC control cable to the Programming Card, and
power up the ESC. In about 1 second, the ESC beeps and it
is ready to go!
mounted the ESC directly in the air flow where the tuned
pipe would normally go. A few pieces of plywood were epoxied
in place to hold the ESC. An opening cut in the front of
the fiberglass bottom will force air through the tuned pipe
area cooling both the ESC and the motor.
my aileron linkage, I replaced the stock hardware with some
Hangar 9 3-1/2" Titanium Pro-Links and 4-40 HD Ball
Links. A Hangar 9 3-32 Swivel Clevis Horn was also used
along with the Hitec aluminum arm that came with the HS-5645MG
servo. The result is a tight and precise linkage that is
easily adjustable for fine tuning.
Titanium Pro-Links 4-40 x 3-1/2"
3-32 Swivel Clevis Horns
4-40 HD Ball Links
needed to cut some plywood blocks to secure the servo in
used the stock gear mains hardware but ran into a spacing
problem when following the assembly technique in the manual.
My guess is that the plywood bracing was thicker on my pant
set causing the wheel to rub.
easy solution was to cut away some of the plywood to allow
the nut hub to sink slightly into it. This freed up sufficient
space to allow the wheel to spin properly.
pants look great and the composite gear mains mounted easily
to the fuselage using the supplied t-nuts. After the gear
mains were mounted to the fuselage, I positioned the Icepoint
on the floor and aligned the pants before drilling the hole
for the second set screw. The second screw locks the pant
canopy required some cleaning to remove the sticky tape
residue before mounting. It mounted easily to the fuselage
using the supplied screws.
ran the receiver antenna wire into a plastic tube and then
inserted the tube into the fuselage.
mount the battery packs, I glued some Industrial Strength
Velcro pads onto the plywood area at the bottom of the plane
meant to house the fuel tank. The two 4-cell Kokam 3.2AH
packs fits perfectly in this area and will be easy to recharge
by simply removing the fiberglass bottom piece. The two
packs plug into a Kokam Series Connector Module to make
an 8s configuration that weighs about 1.5lbs.
motor, ESC, and battery packs will all be in the air flow
from the front opening in the fiberglass cover to the rear
opening meant for the tuned pipe.
installed some #4 T-nuts in the belly pan for a simple technique
to hold it in place. I used a dap of epoxy to help secure
the T-nuts. The #4 socket head screws can be tightened (or
removed) by finger or a 3mm hex wrench for easy battery
swapping in the field.
elevator "Y" linkage is assembled from a carbon
tube and metal rods. I drilled a hole through the carbon
tube and then inserted the end of the metal linkage rod
which was bent at a 90 degree angle. The two rods were first
wrapped by thread and then glued with CA and kicker. I added
some heatshrink tubing around the area for additional support.
help feed the "Y" linkage assembly through the
Icepoint fuselage I first ran some of the Sullivan yellow
inner nyrod from the rear of the plane into the open wing
saddle area. The nyrod was then screwed onto the metal rod
ends of the "Y" linkage after first opening up
the center holes with a drill.
"Y" linkage was then pulled through the plane
out the slots in the rear. Note that by following the pictures
in the manual, the "Y" assembly is too long by
about 5". This can be easily solved by first measuring
the length needed and cutting the carbon center tube shorter
by about 5".
my case, I will simply cut the metal rod shorter by the
elevator servo, bend a right angle into the end and use
a snap link to secure the linkage to the elevator servo