If you're the type of person who wants to set yourself apart from the crowd of cookie-cutter monster trucks, you've likely found that setting yourself apart from everyone else isn't an easy task. While you can bolt on an aftermarket part here or there, in the end the truck still takes on the same form. To really stand out, you needed to fabricate some parts of your own. That is until now, thanks to Truck Stop Racing.

Truck Stop Racing is all about merging the RC Hobby with semi-trucks, and in doing so they have managed to develop some offerings that will surely turn some heads! The Nitro 6 is an Associated Monster GT conversion that turns the truck into a 6x6 powerhouse capable of tackling about anything you could throw at it.

Just how mean is this truck? Because it certainly manages to make other trucks cower in fear due to its sheer size. That's what we're here to find out, as I prepare to take the Nitro 6 out for a leisurely "Sunday afternoon" stroll. You'll want to be sure to check out both the pictures and video on this beast, as 6x6 vehicles simply don't come this way often!

The Truck Stop Racing Nitro 6 arrives as a RTR (Ready to Run) model, with the exception of the body. It's unpainted, giving you the ability to finish the body as you see fit. I normally have a gripe with models that are listed as RTR, but come with an unpainted body, as painting a body can prevent you from getting up and running in a hurry. This is what a RTR model is all about. However, in the case of the Nitro 6 I'll let it slide. I imagine anyone looking at purchasing up one of these will not mind having to paint their own body, as the unique nature of the truck speaks for itself! Having to paint your body is hardly a deal breaker with the Nitro 6 as it may be with other, more common, vehicle platforms that are offered by several manufacturers.

The semi-truck styled body that comes with the Nitro 6 is molded from lexan and, being clear, is open to your imagination in regards to what the final output will look like. It's plenty thick, and should easily withstand quite a bit of abuse before a replacement is needed. If you're worried about replacements though, don't. Truck Stop Racing sells the body as a separate part as well, should the need arise. My only real gripe here is the lack of included window masks and overspray film. While liquid masking is no stranger to me, included window masks would help those people who will choose to use a one color paintjob. An overspray film would also be nice, as a protective measure for the painting process.

Once you open the box, you'll find a ton of documentation on the vehicle. At least after you stop scratching your head at the fact the manuals covers the Associated Monster GT. The reasoning behind this is that the Nitro 6 is actually a modified Monster GT. Once you understand the base design of the truck, the inclusion of these manuals become much clearer. The included parts lists and manuals easily get you up to speed regarding the basics of the truck, and the radio's manual does the same for the electronics. I do think that Truck Stop Racing should throw in a sheet or two of their own though. An exploded view of the changes they have made would be nice, as well as a listing of their parts should you need to order a replacement.

There's also a few extra goody bags stashed in the box. One bag contains extra shock items such as preload spacers and piston heads. You can use these to alter the temperament of the shocks as you see fit. A second bag includes some basic tools to help you maintain the truck, while another bag provides you with some spare hex adapters and wheel mounting hardware. You'll also find some spare washers, and a starting wand to be used in a cordless drill. Obviously the drill isn't included, and should be supplied by you. We'll cover the starting system in more detail a little later however.

If you have had any experience with the Associated Monster GT, the front section of the chassis is going to look very familiar. While the stretched length, and extra pair of axles tips you off that the truck is a modified version of the truck, there are other clues as well. The beefy rollbar Truck Stop Racing add, pretty much negates the flimsy handle Team Associated provides. It also serves as the upper mounting point for the body as well. One interesting thing regarding this body mount is that it allows the body to pivot up, when the front clips have been removed, like the hood on a car. This makes accessing the pullstart easier if the need arises.

The rear of the truck is braced by a formed section of metal that ties the upper ends of the rear shock towers together. The upper brace connects directly to the trimmed down body posts for the shock towers, and provides the rigidity the truck needs to maintain its strength. An empty hole is provided in the center of the plate should you want to add something to fill the void for aesthetic purposes. A natural choice for this would be to mount a "spare tire" in this location.

When viewing the underside of the truck you really get a glimpse of the fact that Truck Stop Racing utilized as much of the Monster GT's original layout as possible. The stock skid plates still mount in their original position, and the aluminum brace under the front of the truck should look very familiar as well. This is due to the fact that Truck Stop Racing uses the stock chassis with their extended rear chassis, producing a two part frame that stretches the entire length of the vehicle.

The Nitro 6 utilizes a total of twelve shocks, throughout the truck, to control the action of the suspension. The shocks are arranged in sets of four at three places along the trucks length. Each of these shock towers are arranged the same, and use the same shock tower hardware, and mounting arrangement. The only difference is that the front shock tower is mounted on the Associated blue anodized bulkheads.

Since the body for the Nitro 6 makes a standard body mounting approach nearly useless, Truck Stop Racing had to develop a different solution. Their answer involved the upper roll bar post, we mentioned earlier, as well as two posts mounted on the front bumper. The front bumper uses a mounting brace similar to what you'll see on the upper mount. I mention this because this means the body will also pivot forward to allow you to access the chassis components as needed. A nice aluminum cover fits over the body posts, once the body has been installed, preventing the body from being torn off, and adding a realistic bumper look to the Nitro 6.

The front of the vehicle, on the main chassis, is where all the action occurs. The transmission is mounted at the center of the chassis, and we'll discuss it in more detail a little later. On the right side of the chassis, beside the transmission, you'll find the 150cc fuel tank. I specifically wanted to mention the fuel tank as it features a couple of items to make your driving experience more fun. The first of the options is the primer bulb positioned in the fuel line. This makes initializing the fuel system a piece of cake. Simply fill the tank, squeeze the bulb a few times, and you're good to go. The other noteworthy feature of this fuel system is the fact the tank is designed feed the motor with fuel, even if it's upside down. It does this with a pair of stone filter pickups in the tank, one at the top of the tank, and the other at the bottom. This way, even if the truck is upside down, the pickup is still covered in fuel.

Each segment of the suspension uses the same pivot ball approach. In fact, the actual suspension components are the same at each location of the truck as well. So this means that a spare set of suspension components can be used anywhere on the truck, making it easy to have a spare ready should the need arise. The suspension arm assemblies are secured to the bulkhead area of each wheel by a 4mm thick stainless steel screw pin.

The pivot ball approach works well for a truck of this nature, allowing easy and precise suspension adjustments. The shock towers do not offer any real adjustably in regards to the shocks angle, but the lower suspension arms provide two mounting points. They are designed to withstand rigorous abuse, which is good on a truck of this nature. The hub is held to the suspension arms by the pivot balls, and features a set of 6x12x4mm bearings to hold the axles and reduce friction. To keep the bearings properly positioned, a 6x9x3mm aluminum spacer fits between them.

A 4.5mm CVD-style axle transfers the power from the differential to the wheels. The axle stub measures 6mm as it passes through the bearings that house it. A 3mm pin holds the CVD joint together, while a 2.5mm pin slides into the axle stub to rest in the 14mm steel hex adapter used to spin the tires.

The aluminum backbone of the Nitro 6 stretches from the front of the truck to the rear as a well matched two piece assembly. This provides the very high level of rigidity needed for this part, and the truck in general. The Associated front brace is extruded aluminum. Behind that Truck Stop Racing uses a pair of angled aluminum. Recessed areas allow the motor to easily slide, facilitating adjustment of the spur gear and clutch bell. A separate 2mm rectangular plate ties the front sections of rear frame rails together. At the bottom of the vehicle, a long 2mm thick rectangular plate pulls double duty as a brace and a skid plate.

The lower plate also serves as the mounting location for the toe links. Since the suspension uses pivot-ball based carriers at each wheel, a link much be used to keep the tires pointed in the proper direction. This is the job of the steel toe links which are connected to the carriers at their outer end, and the lower brace/skid plate at their inner end. Their mounting point is a section of angled aluminum 2mm thick. Since the toe links are true turnbuckles, they also offer you the ability to alter the toe angle of the wheels as well.

The aluminum backbone of the Nitro 6 stretches from the front of the truck to the rear as a well matched two piece assembly. This provides the very high level of rigidity needed for this part, and the truck in general. The front brace is formed and machined from aluminum, and is box-shaped. Then uses a pair of angled sections on the rear half of the vehicle. Recessed areas allow the motor to easily slide and facilitate an adjustment of the spur gear and clutch bell. A separate 2mm rectangular plate ties the front sections of rear frame rails together, while a long 2mm thick rectangular plate pulls double duty as a brace and a skid plate.

The lower plate also serves as the mounting location for the toe links. Since the suspension uses pivot-ball based carriers at each wheel, a link much be used to keep the tires pointed in the proper direction. This is the job of the steel toe links which are connected to the carriers at their outer end, and the lower brace/skid plate at the inner end. Their mounting point is a section of angled aluminum 2mm thick. Since the toe links are true turnbuckles, they also offer you the ability to alter the toe angle of the wheels as well.

The extra long rear section of the truck is made possible by two long L-shaped aluminum sections that stretch to the rear of the truck. At the rear, they are tied together by the differential and lower skid plate. The L-shaped aluminum, with its 2mm thickness, resists bending and provides a nice solid frame for the latter half of the truck. Combined with the front stock Associated frame, the rear frame rails help to form a solid and rigid backbone for the entire length of the truck.

The Nitro 6 uses a bellcrank style steering linkage, that's positioned under the front skid plate. The front skid plate also serves as a brace for the linkage as well. Instead of using a built-in servo on the bellcrank assembly, the truck relies on a traditional servo saver mounted on the steering servo. The linkage pivots on bushings, and the skid plate has access holes to facilitate maintenance of the front driveshaft.

We examined the rollbar Truck Stop Racing added to the truck earlier, and it is a beefy alternative to the stock Associated Monster GT's bar. A rollbar of this magnitude needs some serious hardware holding it in place. So Truck Stop Racing uses a pair of oversized bolts and washers to screw into the rollbar from underside the vehicle. Even though the mounting point is the plastic section of the chassis, the solution imposed by Truck Stop Racing boasts plenty of strength.

The bulkhead areas of the truck utilize thick machined suspension arm mounts which are securely fastened onto the vehicle's frame rails. The shock tower mounts on top of the suspension arm mounts, while the differentials set inside the frame rails and are secured from above. When viewing the center axle/differential, from the underside, you can get a good glimpse of how the two sections of the chassis meet and converge on one another forming a solid frame for the Nitro 6.

While the front and rear driveshafts are standard fare from the Associated Monster GT, the rear driveshaft takes a different approach. It's a dogbone-style shaft, with a thickness of 8mm in the center, and 5mm where it narrows at each end. The driveshaft is fashioned from hardened steel, and is certainly capable of anything the big block .28 motor can dish out.

While the front and rear differentials take on a standard approach, the differential that handles the middle set of axles is rather unique looking, as 6x6 trucks are rather rare in the hobby. Truck Stop Racing needed a way to continue the drivetrain's power through this differential, and on to the rearmost axle. To address this, two pinions and associated case halves were used. This provided the Nitro 6 with a middle differential that turns the inner wheels, while still sending power to the rear differential and its wheels.

Despite the unique approach used by the middle differential, the unit is the same as the other differentials. The differential rides on bearings, as does the pinion gears. Hardened steel output yokes are fitted onto the differentials to transfer the power from the drivetrain to the wheels. Inside the differential a full six-gear setup sits inside the plastic cup. While the unit is filled with grease from the factory, it is sealed so that the differential oil of your choice can be used to tailor the transfer of power from wheel to wheel.

The Nitro 6 uses the transmission of the Associated Monster GT. This transmission uses a very familiar layout to many of the monster truck scene, although it uses a side-mounted spur gear. The transmission features two speeds, and reverse. The shifting point between first and second gear is adjustable, via the hole in the transmission housing. To prevent dirt from entering the transmission, a rubber plug covers the hole once adjustments have been made.

CVD-style driveshafts are used at the front and rear of the transmission, and send the power from the motor to the differentials. The driveshafts are fashioned from hardened steel, and boast a thickness of 5mm. The blue anodized ends that mate to the transmission feature large cutouts so the axle can pivot perpendicular to the output yoke on the transmission. This allows you to easily remove the transmission, and driveshafts, from the chassis as one complete assembly.

Braking action is handled by a 5mm thick fiber disk and stainless steel calipers with a thickness of 1.5mm each. The disk rides on a hex that is part of the front driveshaft. Hex hardware hold the calipers in place, while the transmission's reversing lever is located right next to the brake calipers.

If you peer inside the transmission, you're instantly greeted with a steel drivetrain, liberally coated with grease. This solid drivetrain should withstand plenty of abuse at the hands of an RC enthusiast, proving plenty of trouble-free operation. The gears ride on a full set of bearings, to provide smooth action with minimal drag. The side-mounted spur gear is sandwiched between two slipper pads, which provide an extra buffer of protection during rough landings. Jumping can account for tremendous amounts of driveline shock especially if the throttle is still applied, so this is a welcome feature of the transmission.

The transmission firmly mounts to the aluminum box frame of the vehicle, with a total of eight screws that secure it from the underside of the truck. The spur gear cover is firmly held down by a screw as well. The Monster GT's factory rollbar rests directly under the rollbar provided by Truck Stop Racing, and made the transmission area a little harder to access in places. I see no real reason to leave the smaller rollbar there, and would simply remove it to free up some chassis room.

The Nitro 6's .28 motor is mounted sideways at the rear of the chassis. The tuned pipe is fitted with a silicone deflector that dumps the exhaust residue towards the ground, providing a cleaner chassis. A single spring holds the header in place, as is typical with most big block motors. Up front, a three shoe carbon clutch transfers the motor's power to the clutch bell and drivetrain.

The starting system of the Nitro 6, is carried over from the Associated Monster GT as well. There's a good reason for this, as it offers you the best of both worlds. The output yoke provides you with an easy starting solution, once you equip your cordless drill with the supplied starter shaft. However, should you forget your drill, or the drill's battery die, you'll also find that the pullstart is handy to have as well. This provides you with an alternate starting method, instead of your day ending prematurely.

The Associated .28 motor uses true ABC construction for the piston and sleeve, which gives you a combination of excellent compression with a longer lifespan than the ABN motors that used to frequent the hobby. The motor's head is machined from aluminum, and then provided a blue anodized finish to round out its appearance. The aluminum carburetor is top-notch, providing you with three adjustment needles as well as an idle adjustment. A factory installed throttle return spring provides you with some cheap insurance in the event the onboard electronics lose power at some point.

Speaking of the onboard electronics, you'll find all of them at the very front of the chassis. Powering the steering is an Associated S2008MG servo that provides 111 oz-in. torque to the front wheels, with a transit time of .20 at 60°. The throttle servo is an Associated S1903, which can clamp down on the brakes with 41 oz-in. of torque. Its transit speed of .19 at 60° should provide good throttle response, for a stock setup, as well.

The radio box is sized large enough to hold the included AM receiver, as well as most standard-sized receivers you'll come across. Beside the receiver box is the battery box, which comes stock with an AA battery holder should you need it. I don't generally recommend using the AA battery holder for any length of time at all, so you'll be pleased to note that you can drop a 5-cell hump-style receiver pack in the box as a power source.

The Associated XP3 27MHz AM radio is provided along with the Nitro 6. It's a basic unit, but should get most backyard bashers by until they hunger for an upgrade. It features three operational channels, which the third being controlled by the blue button on the handle. This is the reverse channel, and functions like a toggle button. Press it once, and reverse is engaged. Press it again, and reverse is disengaged. The steering knob is angled, for a more comfortable feel. The radio also features a full range of servo reversing switches, battery indicators, and trim knobs.

Since the body for the Nitro 6 comes unpainted, one of the first things you'll need to do is splash some color on it. So to spruce it up, I opted to fall back to an American flag themed body that I've done on a few occasions. I first saw the idea in a copy of Radio Control Car Action several years ago, and it's still one of my favorites. I thought it would be a natural choice for a semi-truck styled vehicle like the Nitro 6.

To lay out the design I used a combination of liquid masking, and some stars I cut out of a blank Parma vinyl masking sheet. I then painted the body starting with the blue around the stars, and then worked my way through the stripes and then onto the rest of the body. Once finished I backed up the paint with a couple coats of clear lacquer to protect it.

I used my body hole reamer to place holes in the front of the body at the indicated position, and measured for the upper body post hole before making it. Then I cut the wheel wells to allow the tires ample clearance. I also cut the back of the body out, as indicated from the marker line on the body. I used some Shoe-Goo to attach the windshield cover to the body.

With the body painted, I could focus on other aspects of readying the truck. I needed an onboard power source, so I dug out my Venom 1200mAh hump pack and slapped it on a charger. The Nitro 6 uses a servo style plug for the battery connection, and my pack utilizes a standard two-prong battery connector. So I grabbed an adapter cable I had made for this purpose, avoiding the need to rewire the pack or the truck's harness.

One of the most important steps you need to undergo with the preparation, is to oil the air filter. Unlike many RTR vehicles, the filter for the Nitro 6 doesn't come pre-oiled. So don't make the mistake of forgetting this step. I applied several drops of filter oil all around the outside edges of the filter, and then kneaded the filter between my fingers to evenly disperse it throughout the foam element. Once squeezing the excess filter oil out I was left with a foam filter that was blue-colored, the same as my filter oil, and slightly tacky to the touch.

I also took this opportunity to install an in-line fuel filter as well. Even though the tank's dual pickup system utilizes stone filters, an in-line filter is still cheap insurance. This is especially true since a Dubro in-line filter, is only a couple of bucks. I grabbed a blue filter (part number 2306) and then cut the fuel line in two, placing the cut ends onto the filter.

The body for the Nitro 6 doesn't attach like most off-road trucks do. Instead the front bumper area is the primary mounting surface. The front of the body slides onto the body posts, and then the aluminum bumper plate slides onto the posts. Use two of the supplied body clips to hold the body and the bumper in place.

Once the front of the body is mounted, the upper body post slips right into place at the back of the cab. Another body clip holds the back of the body in place.

The last item of preparation involves the radio. I found the collapsible antenna with the included accessories, inserted it into the top of the radio, and then turned it clockwise to secure it. I then threw a set of AA batteries in the radio, to power it, and replaced the cover.

I'll start by saying that, before this review, I had several pre-conceived notions about certain areas of the truck. While it's not uncommon for me to form some opinions before I even drive a vehicle, it is usual for me to feel as if I had made a complete 180° by the time I was finished. The Truck Stop Racing Nitro 6 is that sort of exception. I'm guessing that the fact I had never run a vehicle of this sort before, allowed it to pull the wool over my eyes so it could surprise me. And surprise me it did, in a big way!

The first thought I had regarding the truck was that it would feel underpowered. With the additional set of axles, and the longer chassis adding some weight, I really thought the .28 motor would feel somewhat inadequate. I figured that one out as wrong, immediately after jumping into the break-in process. The break-in process started smooth, and the motor fired up easily thanks to my cordless drill and the supplied wand. Before turning the motor over, I used the primer bulb to get the fuel to the carburetor. This made the starting procedure flow smoothly and the motor roared to life within a few rotations of the starter wand.

For the break-in procedure, I heat cycled the motor. I ran through the requisite number of cycles, allowing the motor to cool between each one. I did find the need to adjust the idle a little higher during the break-in process to keep the motor running when the radio's trigger was in a neutral state. However, as the motor loosened up in the later stages of the break-in process, I would find myself reversing this adjustment. As I made laps around the backyard I quickly noticed that my initial thoughts regarding the vehicle feeling low on power were obviously going to be wrong. Even though I wasn't hammering the throttle, due to the break-in process, I could see that the truck was very responsive in regards to power. I simply couldn't wait to open it up!

The whole break-in procedure went flawlessly, and soon I was ready to head towards driving the truck in a fashion that I longed for. After a bit of fine tuning, I hammered the throttle and the Nitro 6 shot off in a storm of dirt and rocks. Watching all six tires grabbing at the ground was quite a sight, and one I won't forget any time soon. It had become very apparent that I was very wrong about how well the truck would run when coupled with its .28 cubic inch motor. This truck was mean!

Once I started running the truck harder, and pitching it into turns faster, I noticed I was wrong about another facet of the Nitro 6. I initially felt as if it would feel rather top heavy and prone to rolling over. However, again the truck proved me wrong. I kept cutting into corners harder and harder, watching the chassis lean. However, the truck simply stayed planted on the ground and slid through the turns without tipping over. In fact, there was only one time the entire afternoon I managed to flip the truck over, and it involved it being run across some rough ground that simply caught the tires. The truck was simply a lot more stable than it appeared, with the tall semi-truck body misleading one into thinking the truck wasn't very nimble.

From a handling and cornering standpoint the truck performed very well too. If you tried to take a controlled line through a turn and come out of a corner hard, the truck would exhibit a small pushing condition. However, it was much less severe than with most typical six-wheel drive vehicles I've experienced. The dual rear axle setup seems to make the rear want to bite a little harder, taming the push considerably. When entering the corner and trying to turn, while heavily in the throttle, the truck would get rather loose for the same reason. The dual axle setup in the rear threw a great deal of power to the rear of the truck, forcing you to stay on your toes. The same could be said for heavy braking while turning as well.

After entering a corner a few times, while braking and staying in the throttle, I found it real easy to use these characteristics to my advantage. I learned to pivot the rear of the truck around, setting the front end of the truck for a quick run back in the other direction. I imagine the stock tires played a large role in this, as their grip was somewhat limited. A grippier tire would obviously improve traction overall, and change the cornering characteristics considerably.

I took the truck across some wooden boards I used as barriers for my makeshift backyard track, just to watch the suspension work. Watching the 6x6 truck crawl over obstacles like that was a very cool sight to behold. I've seen some amazing suspension work from some pretty impressive trucks in my time, but a 6x6 vehicle such as this is in a completely different category altogether. It was like watching a caterpillar make its way over a stick on the ground, with the way the truck hugged against to different elevations.

After I had my fill with crawling over some obstacles in the backyard, I utilized the rougher area near the house where a driveway had been cut in. While the driveway was well groomed, the area beside it was pretty rough and presented a ditch-like area to run up. The Nitro 6 hit this area with authority and power no matter how I ran through it. Higher speeds launched it into the air, while slower speeds provided a nicely controlled crawl up the face. The truck powered through any small brushy areas that had grown up, and quickly showed it was master in this domain!

Out on the smoother surface of the gravel driveway, the motor's power showcased itself well. The tires simply didn't provide much grip at all, on the hard packed surface, and a fistful of throttle could easily induce the truck into a skid from a standstill. The dual rear axles gave the truck a very loose feel on this surface, but a softer set of tires would have tamed it down considerably. In fact, the truck would probably be unstoppable with different tires, as the 6x6 drivetrain worked very well with what it was given.

As a final test of the truck's abilities, I headed back to the yard and starting hitting some of the dirt jumps I have there. Again the truck shattered my previous feelings as to its abilities, with my initial thought being that it would be pretty nose heavy and a poor jumper. However, that couldn't have been further from the truth, as it flew extremely level needing very little in the way of corrections. Watching it land from a jump was just as amazing, as the six-wheeled suspension soaked up the landing like it was second nature. This kept the truck in perfect control as it hit the ground and sped away. I was surprised by how well it took to jumping, and even now I can still picture the six-wheeled beast flying through the air!

Towards the end of the day, I found my drill battery lacked the power it needed to turn the motor over. I couldn't blame anyone for myself for forgetting to charge it, but in the end it proved to be a good thing. Even though I liked how easy it was to access the drill starter mechanism with the body on, I really needed to give the pullstart option a try as well. The glow igniter fit easily through the opening in the back, but I did find that I needed to pivot the front of the body up to get a good pull range for the starter cord. However a few quick pulls had me up and running once more, and after a few seconds of securing the body I was tearing up the dirt once again!

The truck took several hard hits throughout the day, but only one did any damage at all. Towards the end of the day, while using my second receiver pack charge, the pack's power started to fade away. I could tell that the brakes didn't seem to be as strong, due to the low voltage of the pack not sending a full 6 volts of power to the servo. I knew that my runtime was limited at this point but pushed on anyway, wanting to finish the tank I fuel I was running. In the end the decision would bite me, as I hit a pile of wood head on due to the limited braking action I was receiving. The hit wasn't at full speed, but not too far from it. After shutting the truck down, I could see that one corner of the aluminum plate around the front bumper was slightly bent. Nothing major, and nothing that a pair of channel locks didn't quickly correct. I certainly can't complain at all, as I put this truck through some rough situations, and aside from that minor damage, it walked away unscathed.

In the end, how did the Nitro 6 fare? I don't even know where to begin. It exceeded all that I had originally thought about it, providing one dynamite truck in an over-sized package. There's absolutely nothing like taking this truck out and tearing up the dirt. It seemed perfectly at home with whatever I threw its way. I'm impressed with how easily the Associated GT platform lent itself to this application, but even more impressed with the job Truck Stop Racing has done in taking it to this level. The truck is as tough and rugged as the terrain you'll spend your time in.

There really isn't much to complain about at all with this truck. My biggest gripes involve the lack of window masks for those who may want an easy way to give their truck a single color paint job, and the lack of any instructions involving the modifications Truck Stop Racing has performed. The former is more minor of course, but a sheet detailing the TSR conversion process would come in very handy for many people. In addition, assigning part numbers for the truck would allow replacement items to be easily ordered if it ever became necessary.

I would have never guessed that the Nitro 6 could contain as much fun and durability as it does. However, it easily accomplishes that task, while providing you with a truck that is unique enough to make anyone give you a second glance. If you're someone who longs to be the standout person in the crowd, then the Truck Stop Racing Nitro 6 is the truck for you!

Truck Stop Racing
Box 400
Ririe, ID 83443 USA
Phone: (208) 589-7187
Website: www.truckstopracing.com

Parma International, Inc.
13927 Progress Parkway
North Royalton, OH 44133 USA
Phone: 440-237-8650
Fax: 440-237-6333
Website: www.parmapse.com
Products used: Faskolor Paints, Blank Masking Sheet