Contributed by: Greg Covey | Published: May 2006 | Views: 130710 | Email this Article
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Senior Telemaster ARF E-Conversion

Review
by: Greg Covey
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Flying
Photos: Papa Jeff Ring
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Video
Pilot: Lynn Bowerman
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Senior
Telemaster ARF
Distributed exclusively by:
Hobby-Lobby
5614 Franklin Pike Cr.
Brentwood, TN 37027
615.373.1444
www.hobby-lobby.com
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Sturdy
all-wood design
Great ARF value
Superb Flying Performance
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Poor
elevator linkage
Weak stock wheels
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Senior
Telemaster Electrified
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The
new Senior Telemaster ARF from Hobby Lobby
is one big value!
It
comes right out of the box pre-built and covered
for less than you could build it yourself.
The
ARF design is so complete that even all the control surfaces are
already attached. I'll have plenty of fun converting this plane
to clean and quiet electric power using my own setup design.
Specifications:
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Wingspan: 94"
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Length: 64"
- Wingarea:
1330 sq. in.
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Flying Stab area 320 sq. in.
- Flying
weight: 10.5lbs
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4 channels; Aileron (2 servos), Elevator, Rudder and Throttle
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My
plan is to use the AXI 4130/16 on a 6s BalancePro HD Lithium
pack for a safe conversion to clean and quiet electric power.
Since weight is not an issue on the Senior Telemaster ARF
(other than needing some for proper balance) using NiMH cells
is also a good solution for a lower cost.
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AXI 4130/16 motor
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Jeti 70-amp Opto Advance PLUS ESC
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BalancePro HD 2p6s 6400mAh pack
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APC 15x8 e-prop
The
advantage of this 38oz pack (although expensive) is that each
cell can be balanced on every charge and monitored during discharge
for a true safety cutoff that keeps the pack lasting over 500
cycles. Although the pack can be charged at a 3C charge rate,
the BalancePro HD 6s Charger only goes to 10 amps so the actual
charge rate is about 1.5C. This 6400mAh pack will provide for
safe 30 minutes flight times.
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The
main hatch allows easy access to plenty of space.
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The
stock motor mount is meant for a glow engine.
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All
the decals are already applied to the Telemaster ARF.
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My
AXI 4130/16 motor mounting started by installing the Radial
Mount Set. The basic front design of the Sr. Telemaster allows
for a dozen different ways to mount the motor. I choose to create
an extended firewall from two 1/4" thick pieces of 3" square
birch plywood.
The
one piece had been "pre-enjoyed" and had some extra holes in
it. It holds the motor mount using #8-32 hardware and T-nuts.
The other piece that does not hold the motor, gets cut in half.
I drilled some 1/4" holes on either side at 1-1/2" from the
firewall and cut slots to the holes using a craft saw.
The
motor is first screwed to the main 3" square block so that you
can detect alignment issues when gluing it in place. I attached
one side using three servo screws and epoxy into pre-drilled
holes.
The
two-sided assembly is then slid into place on the frame and
glued in with epoxy while watching the alignment. A slight downthrust
is built into the frame and should be followed.
The
last step is to screw and glue the third side in place. The
result is a rock solid mount for the AXI 4130 motor.
ESC
Mounting:
The
ESC power input was wired to the Dean's Ultra connector in parallel
with a 6v UBEC (Universal BEC). The 6v UBEC will provide a stronger
and quicker response on my FMA DS300BB digital servos. The UBEC
also eliminates the need for a separate receiver battery.
I
drilled three 3/8" holes close together to create a slot in
the firewall for feeding the motor wires into the fuselage.
According to other RCU member's findings, the battery pack will
reside close to the CG so the entire compartment behind the
firewall is available for other components.
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Note
that the manual is meant for a different version of the ARF
than what is sold by Hobby Lobby. Many steps are already finished
on the Hobby Lobby ARF, like the control surfaces all being
attached. Others steps must be modified due to the high degree
of pre-assembly, like the horizontal stabilizer mounting.
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Gear
Mains:
The
gear mains and wheels installed easily without any issues.
You simply cut away the film covering in the two channels
and pre-drill the eight holes for the screws.
The first step is to cut the small section of tail away so
that the bulky airfoil stabilizer can be slid into position
from the rear. Note that the fuselage is on its side because
you can see the airfoil opening.
Flying
Stabilizer:
The
tail on the Senior Telemaster appears to be built for a version
of the ARF that didn't already have the control surfaces attached.
This doesn't create too much of a problem as long as you are
willing to do some custom cutting and think ahead so that things
go together properly.
I
also needed to cut some other tail areas to help the stabilizer
position move forward. I find it easiest to position the stabilizer
where I want it and then trace the section of covering to be
cut away with a felt tip marker.
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You
can see that the rudder will not fit without some slight modifications.
I cut away the tail channel at the very end for the rudder to
fit and also decided to mount the tailwheel assembly at this
point.
Rudder:
A 1" deep hole is needed in the rudder for the tailwheel bar.
It was easiest to attach the tailwheel assembly to the fuselage
bottom first using two screws and then epoxy the rudder in place
by sliding onto the bar as it entered the fuselage channel.
Remember to sand off the black paint on the section of bar that
goes into the rudder for a better glue hold.
Since
my tail end and horizontal flying stab did not perfectly mate
in the rear, I cut a narrow vertical channel for the tailwheel
bar to run in on its way to the rudder.
After
the epoxy dried, I ran a bead of thick white glue along the seams
as they had some gaps to be filled. This looks better and adds
strength to the joint. My trusty Hobbico Builder's Triangle kept
the two stabs at a right angle.
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Not
much room for dinner while building this plane on the kitchen
table so I was forced to clean up.
Trim
Piece:
I
finished up the tail assembly by attaching the trim piece to
the rudder and fuselage using thick white glue. Since the trim
piece has no structural significance, the white glue dries clear
and looks better than epoxy.
I
also ran a bead of glue along every joint.
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I
was a bit disappointed in the cheap tailwheel supplied with
the kit for a plane of this size. That being said, you really
get plenty of plane for the cost of this ARF.
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I
replaced the stock tailwheel with a much firmer Dubro 1-1/4"
diameter tailwheel. The Dubra tailwheel was slightly larger
then the stock tailwheel and it fit on the axle without
drilling.
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I
sealed the bare balsa on the rudder bottom with thick white
glue.
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Servos and Linkages:
My
servos are the FMA Direct Premiere
Digital Adjustable Servos and my receiver is the M5
v2 for glitch-free performance. Built on the time-proven
M5 design, the new M5 v2 has improved resolution to support
digital and other super-sensitive servos. It also has an improved
failsafe technique as well as improved digital filtering.
The M5 v2 is dual-conversion, narrow-band to provide full
range and performance. The receiver can be used in aircraft
ranging from park flyers to IMAA-legal aircraft and helicopters.
The
tiny 0.3oz M5 v2 is held in place with double-sided servo
tape and a ty-wrap. The antenna wire is routed inside a black
plastic tube and then placed down inside the fuselage all
the way to the tail.
Note
how far back the servo tray ended up and how short the metal
rod sections are as the dowel rod assemblies appeared to be
built to the wrong length.
Although
the rudder linkage installed fairly well, the split elevator
linkage was not great. Aside from the wrong length "Y" rod
assembly, the linkage could sway from side to side and the
long metal rods were rather soft.
I
decided to bend the metal rods out and back towards the elevator
since they were excessively long and it alleviated most of
the binding against the slots in the fuselage. This may be
a mistake since the metal in the rods is quite soft and allows
you to defect the elevators easily by hand. I may revisit
this assembly if I have problems in flight.
To
help keep the wooden dowel from shifting inside the fuselage,
I created a custom balsa guide and glued in from an opening
I cut into the fuselage bottom. The opening will also act
as an air exit for cooling the ESC and battery. The control
surfaces seemed to swing well and I used minimal throw settings
to increase the resolution and strength through the mechanical
linkages.
The
aileron linkage installed without issue. Note that instead
of using "Z" bends at the servo arm, I used my own snap keepers.
I also added rudder fuel hose "keepers" to all the clevises.
Again, near minimal throw was selected for the aileron mechanical
linkages.
The
manual recommends an aileron differential setup if you have
a computer radio. After some flight testing, I didn't really
see any need for aileron differential.
Wing
Assembly:
My
next step was to assemble the wing. Again, the manual instructions
are poor. I needed to cut a slot in the wing chord end to
route the aileron servo wires to the bottom. The wing halves
are joined by two large spruce spares that provide great strength.
My assumption is that you want to keep the wings split when
not in use due to the large 95" span. The manual has no recommendations
or final assembly instructions in this area.
Switch,
Spinner, and Pack Position:
I
mounted the On/Off switch and spinner without issue. The switch
was my favorite S3K On/Off Switch Harness from Tower Hobbies.
The spinner is supplied with the ARF and fits without any
drilling on the 4130 Radial Mount Set using an APC 15x8 e-prop.
I
positioned my BalancePro HD 2p6s 6400mAh pack near the CG
as shown an tested the balance to be about 1/2" forward of
the recommended 6" back from the LE.
The
big 6s2p BalancePro HD 6400mAh pack easily fits in the main
cabin of the Senior Telemaster ARF. It firmly slides into position
surrounded by foam and is then held in place with a block of
white EPP foam that wedges snuggly into place.
All
the connections are made from the front hatch area so the wing
can be kept on for arming and recharging.
Strut
Mounting:
I
could not get the spare covering in the kit to work properly.
There seemed to be no backing to peel off and no glue to hold
it onto the wooden strut so I spray painted my struts black
with Tamiya acrlyic.
For
the wing end, I used Dubro hinges with the metal pins so the
strut would stay permanently connected and be able to swing.
I slotted the strut, then glued and pinned the hinge in place.
It is held to the wing with 6 screws.
For
the fuselage end, I wanted a quick disconnect without any tools
needed in the field. I choose a 1/4" clevis pin and hitch pin
clip from Home Depot.
I
made a diagram of my metal bracket to be screwed into the bottom
of the fuselage where the thick hardwood block is for the gear
mains. The cut off clevis pin will connect the strut to the
metal bracket using the pin clip.
After
securing the bracket to the fuselage bottom using 3 screws into
the hardwood block, I drilled 1/4" holes through the bracket
and strut ends. The clevis pin was shortened using a Dremel
tool and I took up the length slack with a thick 1/4" washer.
The
wings feel strong now and the struts connect or disconnect easily
without any tools.
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My
Senior Telemaster was ready to fly at around 10lbs using the
6s2p BalancePro HD 6400mAh pack.
The
power system draws 50amps for about 1000 watts of power. The
resulting 100w/lb provides strong take-offs with aerobatic
capability.
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When
I maidened my Senior Telemaster, it flew as expected...like
a dream. As with any Telemaster, they just love to fly and can
be a bit lofty when landing. On the rolls, we used plenty of
down elevator when inverted. The AXI 4130 provides awesome power
and the BalancePro HD 6s2p 6400mAh pack provides long 30 minute
flights.
The
winds were 10-15mph during the video and the plane could easily
have been another pound or two heavier to help keep it stable.

CLICK
HERE (9.5meg)
Summary
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The
Senior Telemaster ARF is a great value. It would cost you more
to build it from a kit. Although the manual was unclear in several
areas, it was easy to make the changes needed for a successful
assembly. A large plane like the Senior Telemaster is both fun
to build and fly. The big size and color make it easy to see in
the air and the split wing makes it easier to transport.
The
plane design and size make it relatively immune to additional
weight so less expensive NiMH packs can be used as an alternative
power source or you can add a payload for even more fun. The AXI
4130 outrunner motor provided a spirited 100w/lb power level for
strong take-offs and aerobatic maneuvers. Hobby Lobby recommends
using struts for performing loops or rolls and their AXI 4120
motor recommendation also works well.
The
Senior Telemaster is easy to fly but requires intermediate piloting
skills to land as it becomes a bit lofty. Modifications are easily
done to suit your own preference. I only changed the stock tailwheel
and modified the wing mount to eliminate the need for using 16
rubber bands.
I
rate this model very highly for the great value it offers and
its ability to accept many different power systems and flying
weights. After all, it's a Telemaster - and nothing flies like
a Telemaster!
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Hobby Lobby
5614 Franklin Pike Cr.
Brentwood, TN 37027
615.373.1444
www.hobby-lobby.com

FMA
Direct
5716A Industry Lane
Frederick, MD 21704
Website: www.fmadirect.com
Sales: 800.343.2934 or 301.668.7614
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The comments, observations and conclusions made in this review are solely with respect to the particular item the editor reviewed and may not apply generally to similar products by the manufacturer. We cannot be responsible for any manufacturer defects in workmanship or other deficiencies in products like the one featured in the review. |
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