RCU Review: AquaCraft V24

More On This Product

  • Discussions on this Product
  • Show user ratings
  • Check for Retailers
    Contributed by: Eric Hege | Published: June 2006 | Views: 138363 | email icon Email this Article | PDFpdf icon
    AquaCraft V24 One Design RTR Boat


    Distributed Exclusively By
    Great Planes Model Distributors
    P.O. Box 9021
    Champaign, IL 61826-9021 USA

    Phone: (800) 637-7660

    Website: www.aquacraftmodels.com

    See the Aquacraft V24 in action!
    Resolution:  Low  Medium  High

    Assembly Ease

    Uses Unleaded Gasoline
    Easy To Operate
    Plenty of Power
    Easy Cockpit Access
    Looks Fantastic on the Water

    Steering Coupler Works Loose

    Summer is just around the corner, and along with the warm weather many of us spend time at a local lake or pond. If you're a hardcore RC enthusiast like me, you often find that at the lakefront there's not a lot of room to run your favorite cars and trucks. So what's one to do? Why, simply grab a boat and hit the water of course!

    When choosing a waterfront craft, there are a lot of choices out there. However, if you're looking to garner some attention there's no question that bigger is definitely better. This makes the Aquacraft V24 One Design one of the best choices available. On top of its nearly five-foot length, the largely sized engine runs on standard pump gas with oil mixed into it. So it's much cheaper to operate than a nitro-powered vehicle as well.

    Between its impressive styling and its gas-powered engine, the boat has certainly got the goods to make it a favorite among the masses. The streamlined blue and white hull just begs to be powered through the water, and the throaty exhaust note commands the attention of everyone around. Let's get ready to take this craft out on the lake, so that you too can get hooked on what the V24 One Design has to offer!

    Model Name: AquaCraft V24 Gas Vee Boat RTR
    Part Number: AQUB40**
    Price: $700.00 (Approx. Street Price)
    Type: Gull Wing Gas Boat
    Overall Length: 58.0" (1473mm)
    Hull Length: 54.0" (1372mm)
    Beam (Width): 18.0" (457mm)
    Height: 14.5" (368mm)
    Weight: 15.6 lbs. (7.1kg)
    Hull Material: Fiberglass
    Prop: Two-Blade Stainless Steel 2.5" (65mm)
    Engine: Fuji BT-24 1.5 ci (23.9cc)
    Radio: Futaba 2PEKA FM 75MHz Pistol-Grip Radio

    Additionally Required Items
    8 AA Batteries (For Radio)
    4 AA Batteries or Receiver Pack (For Receiver)
    Unleaded Gas
    Two-Cycle Oil
    Adjustible Wrench or Nut Drivers
    Phillips Head Screwdriver
    Hex Wrenches and Stand

    The Aquacraft V24 comes with all of the necessary documentation to get you up and running. The Owner's Manual covers the basics such as engine break-in, fuel mixtures, and general operating and maintenance procedures. So it will certainly be something you'll want to keep handy. Towards the back, you'll find an exploded diagram that covers the motor assembly should you need to service it. Te Futaba FM radio has its own manual as well, and Aquacraft includes a set of stickers so you can decorate the boat in a manner that suits you.

    Inside the box, Aquacraft also includes some basic tools to help you get started in the form of L-shaped hex wrenches. While more seasoned veterans will probably have a set of hex drivers, the hex wrenches cover the needs of a beginner. To assist you in starting and working on the Aquacraft V24, the manufacturer also provides you with a wooden boat stand as well. You'll just need to assemble it, which only takes a few seconds.

    The Futaba 2PEKA 75MHz FM radio will easily provide all the functions that most owners need. The FM signal gives you control that is much more reliable than a basic AM radio would provide. On the front you'll find basic analog trim knobs, while near the top of the grip a dial controls the dual-rate setting. This allows you to tone down the amount of rudder travel to avoid over steering the boat. The radio only provides you with two operating channels; however the receiver can handle three servos in the event you want to use a third servo to control the prop angle. You'll just need to supply the additional servo and a compatible 3-channel radio. We'll cover the propeller angle more a little later.

    Left Side
    Right Side
    Bottom View

    The Aquacraft V24 One Design is a very sleek-looking watercraft, and the color scheme looks very well when it's out on the water. It uses a gull wing design, and has side fins that help maintain stability during turns. The cockpit cover matches the hull's streamlined design and flows back to the fin on the rear of the boat to help promote high speed stability.

    The bottom of the boat matches the upper side in its well thought out design. The rear of the boats sports all of the hardware though. This is where you'll find the coolant pickup, propeller, and rudder assemblies. We'll see all of these items in detail as we continue exploring the components of the V24 One Design.

    Tuned Pipe

    The underside of the Aquacraft V24 differs from many of the smooth-bottomed boats I have experienced. Aquacraft utilizes a series of channels to help deflect the water along the bottom as the boat zips across the surface at high speeds. These channels increase the stability of the V24 dramatically, making it very easy to pilot around your favorite lake. They also reduce surface drag, by minimizing how much water actually touches the bottom of the boat.

    The rudder is machined from aluminum and anodized in a visually appealing shade of blue. It arrives detached from the boat, preventing the steering assembly from being damaged while it's in the box. A pair of screws and nuts secures the rudder to the rest of the assembly at the back of the craft, so installing the rudder is very easy to do. Then after you finish running your Aquacraft V24, you'll find it removes just as easily in the event you wish to store it in the box.

    The rudder is definitely a precision piece of equipment, thanks to its well thought out design characteristics. Its size is the first thing most will notice, as a boat this large requires a very serious rudder to keep it pointed in the correct direction. However, a smaller detail that's just as important can be overlooked. That is the fact that the rudder also is used as a coolant pickup as well, thanks to the pickup that's machined into its face.

    To hold the tuned pipe assembly on the boat, above the rudder, Aquacraft also provides a stainless steel pipe bracket as well. Once installed, the pipe bracket keeps the end of the tuned pipe secure while still allowing it some flex to account for the motor's vibrations as its running. The tuned pipe is made from spun aluminum, and will need to be installed before you run the watercraft for the first time. Aquacraft has made it easy though, as they have also supplied you with a silicone exhaust coupler and zip ties. So you can easily connect the header and the pipe together with nothing extra needed at all.

    Cockpit Cover
    Release Button
    Air Intake

    The Aquacraft V24's cockpit cover matches the streamlined look of the rest of the boat. It's made from fiberglass, just like the rest of the watercraft is, and features a very simply latching mechanism that makes installation and removal easy. On top of that, you don't have to worry about loosing cockpit screws, like you may with other boats. You simply push the button in to lock it, and push in and twist to open the cover.

    At the front of the cockpit cover a single rod, blended into the fiberglass, holds it down as the boat skims across the surface of the lake at high speeds. Along the sides of the cover you'll find a couple of air intakes that allow fresh air to flow into the engine compartment so the gasoline-powered engine can breathe.

    Ventilation Hole
    Kill Switch
    Antenna Mount

    At the back of the craft a rather large opening allows the tuned pipe to exit the inside of the hull, while also allowing heat from inside the boat to easily escape. This aids the water-cooling system in its efforts to keep the boat operating within a safe temperature range. This opening is far enough above the water line that you don't have to worry about water running in the boat.

    Along the left-hand side of the boat, you'll find a toggle switch. This switch allows you to easily kill the V24's motor so you can lift it out of the water safely. This is an excellent call on the part of Aquacraft, as shutting the boat's engine off before lifting it from the water is a much safer course of action than removing the boat with the engine running and prop spinning.

    While antenna placement is critical for any RC vehicle, with a boat it is especially important. This is primarily because you will often end up running the boat out farther away from you than what you might think you will. In most cases, this tends to be much farther than any land-based vehicle. With this in mind, Aquacraft has equipped the V24 One Design with an aluminum receiver tube mount. This mount firmly holds the antenna once you push the tube into it, keeping it secure and upright.

    Propeller Angle
    Cable Housing

    A boat's propeller is one of the more vital components of the craft. It is the item that provides the forward motion, pushing the boat along the water at high rates of speed. In the case of the Aquacraft V24, the prop is constructed from stainless steel and held securely in place by a stainless steel nut. Its large 65mm size allows it to move plenty of water when propelling the boat forward. A large ¼ inch thick drive cable spins the prop, and forms its driveline.

    The Aquacraft V24 features a unique Adjustable Surface Drive system that allows you to tailor the performance and handling of the watercraft to suit your tastes. This assembly allows you to easily alter the propeller angle, giving you a boat that is either focused more on speed or smoother less-sensitive turning. Out of the box, this is a manual adjustment. However with the use of a radio with a third channel, and an extra servo, you can control the propeller angle while the boat is racing around in the water.

    At the point where the propeller cable enters the V24's hull, you find it is well sealed. The propeller shaft resides in an anodized aluminum housing, and where it meets the boat you'll find the assembly sealed with a nylon bushing and stainless steel adapter. This makes sure that the water stays outside the boat where it belongs.

    Cable Adapter
    Top Of Coolant Pickup
    Bottom Of Coolant Pickup

    I mentioned the drive cable a few moments ago. While the far end of the cable can be found at the boat's propeller. The other end is connected to the V24's engine. The drive cable is a ¼ inch thick, which should provide plenty of strength for transferring the powerful gasoline motor's motion to the prop. An adapter nut assembly secures the cable to the engine's flywheel.

    While the rudder also serves as one of the coolant pickup lines, it's not the only source for the cooling system. There are also two other pickups as well, placed at the rear of the boat on the left and right sides. Anodized aluminum brackets form the main foundation for these pickups, while stainless steel brackets hold the pickup in contact with the water. The brackets for the pickups are adjustable, so you can further optimize the handling characteristics of the Aquacraft V24.

    The pickups stick down through the stainless steel bracket as an angled brass tube. This creates a flow of water through the coolant lines as the boat flies across the lake's surface. The faster the boat goes, the quicker the coolant passes through the line that cools the engine and exhaust system.

    Rudder Assembly
    Rudder Linkage
    Fuel Tank

    While I covered the rudder earlier, I didn't specifically cover the rudder assembly and steering mechanism. As with the rudder, you'll find the core components are aluminum that has been anodized in blue. The arm that pivots the rudder uses brass bushings at its pivot points. Heavy-duty duty stainless steel hardware secures the parts together, while the linkage that connects the servo to the rudder assembly is stainless steel and uses a heavy-duty rod end. A silicone boot prevents water from entering the boat via the hole that the linkage uses at the rear of the boat.

    The fuel tank for the Aquacraft V24 One Design is massively sized, giving the craft the ability to stay out on the lake for up to 40 minutes without refueling. It has a 23 oz. capacity, making it a perfect match for the large motor that powers the boat. The neck for the tank extends up from the tank, making it extremely easy to refuel once the cockpit lid has been removed.

    Gas-Powered Engine
    Carburetor and Primer
    Adjustment Needles

    The engine for the Aquacraft V24 One Design isn't a glow engine that requires nitro fuel. Instead, the Fuji BT-24 1.5 cubic inch motor uses standard gasoline, which means that it's cheaper to operate in the long run than a nitro-based motor. The motor is still a two-cycle unit, and therefore it does still require oil mixed in its fuel however.

    The Fuji motor uses a spark plug similar to what you'll find in a standard car, although the spark is provided by a magneto mounted on the rear of the motor instead of a distributor. The engine's carburetor features a plastic bubble that makes priming the fuel system easy. It also allows you to easily see when the system is primed as well.

    The motor's adjustment needles and idle screws are easily found at the front of the carburetor. So adjusting the tune of the motor is not difficult when it's necessary. To make adjustments even easier, the high and low speed needles are marked to indicate which function they control.

    Coolant Lines
    Water-Cooled Head
    Coolant Exit Holes

    Since air won't flow across the motor once the cockpit cover is installed, another method of cooling must be utilized. As is typical with many water-based vehicles, water is used as a coolant. Earlier we saw the coolant pickups and, now that we're looking closer at the motor, one can see the areas that are cooled by the lines. One line specifically cools the engine's head, while a second line cools the motor block and header area. A third line handles keeping the header cool at the area where it connects to the tuned pipe.

    As the boat moves across the surface of the lake, the water is constantly flowing through the lines. This means that as well as having an intake, the water must also have an exit point. This can be found on the left-hand side of the boat in the form of openings in the hull. As the coolant flows, and the boat is moving, you can see the water exiting these holes. This allows you to easily check to see that the cooling system is working correctly as you're piloting the boat across the lake.

    Recoil Starter
    Radio Box Cover
    Inside the Radio Box

    To start a massive motor like the one in the Aquacraft V24, one needs a hefty-sized pullstart. So with that in mind, the Fuji Imvac powerplant uses a large heavy-duty pullstart mounted to the front of the engine. It's easily pulled and, if the motor is properly tuned and primed, the engine should fire easily.

    The Aquacraft V24 is designed to prevent water from entering the boat as evidenced by the various seals and plugs used throughout the boat. However you are operating in a water-based environment and it is entirely possible that some moisture may find its way inside the boat. With this in mind, Aquacraft made sure that the electronics were appropriately protected.

    The radio box takes up the rearmost section of the craft, and used two aluminum bars to hold the clear lid in place. Once you prep the boat for action, the tuned pipe will pass over the lid, making access a little tougher. However, I could still access anything I needed to in the box without removing the pipe. The same can also be said for removal and reinstallation of the box's lid. Foam padding helps to seal the electronics box, and prevent any moisture from finding its way into it.

    Inside the box, you'll find two servos that handle the steering and throttle of the Aquacraft V24. Both servos are made by Futaba, matching the radio gear of the boat. The steering servo is a S3305 high torque metal gear servo that boasts 124 oz-in of torque at 6 volts. This gives it plenty of muscle to handle turning the boat at higher rates of speed. A standard Futaba S3003 controls the action of the vehicle's carburetor. It only has 44 oz-in of torque, but operating the throttle is nowhere nearly as tough of a job as the rudder. So the S3003 servo should easily be up to the task.

    You'll also find a third servo mount in the electronics box as well. If you'll remember that I mentioned the adjustable prop angle earlier. This is where you will install a servo to control the angle if you want to utilize a three-channel radio.

    FM Receiver
    External Power Switch
    Power Switch

    When you're running a boat like the Aquacraft V24 around a lake you want a good clean signal to avoid any possible glitches or radio signal issues. So Aquacraft equips the V24 with a FM Futaba receiver to compliment the FM pistol-grip radio. This receiver does provide three operating channels, giving you the capability of adding the third servo to control the watercraft's prop angle.

    As a final note regarding the electronics box, Aquacraft made it super easy to switch the onboard electronics on and off. Knowing that it would be a pain to have to remove the clear box cover each time the electronics needed to be switched on and off, Aquacraft provides a lever that passes through the box. This allows you to switch the onboard electronics on and off without ever having to remove the cover.

    Assemble Stand

    Before doing anything else with the Aquacraft V24, I would recommend assembling the wooden work stand. This way, you'll have something to hold the boat in place while you walk through the initial preparations steps. The assembly is straightforward. The small sections are the side, and the taller sections are the front and rear. Simply slide the piece together lining up the grooves.

    Aquacraft has already installed the antenna wire inside the plastic tube, making that one less step you'll need to take. However, you'll still need to slide the tube into the aluminum mount placed on the left-hand side of the boat. It's a tight fit, and I found it helpful to grip the tube with a pair of needle nose pliers to get it slid into place.

    The next thing you'll need to accomplish is applying the decals. You get a large assortment of them and you can use a many, or as few, as you wish. Some of the larger decals can be somewhat tough to drop into place. I recommend using some warm water with a little dishwashing soap in it. Wet the sticky side of the decal and then drop it into place. Once the decal is on the boat, you can slide it around if needed. Then, squeeze out any air bubbles with a cloth. Once the soapy water dries, the decal will stick just as good as if it were installed dry. Without the soap and water mix you'd have to try and peel it back up if the decal wasn't straight, often the result would be a torn or stretched decal.

    Receiver Pack
    Close Box
    Install Pipe

    The next few steps will probably be handled lakeside, just before you launch the boat into the water. The first of these items to be tackled is the power for the onboard electronics. I skipped the use of 4 AA batteries, opting to use a 5-cell receiver pack instead. A receiver pack will save money in the long run as it's rechargeable, and it provides more consistent power for the servos and receiver to draw upon. Make sure the power switch is in the off position, so you don't discharge the battery prematurely. Once you're ready to start the boat, the external switch lever will allow you to easily switch the electronics on.

    Once the batteries or receiver pack is installed, replace the clear cover and secure it using the aluminum brackets and wing nut hardware. Snug the wing nuts down, but don't over tighten them. If you run them too tight, you run the risk of damaging the electronics box or the lid.

    Once the lid to the electronics box has been installed, you'll need to install the tuned pipe. Slide the silicone coupler onto the pipe and secure it with a zip tie. Then slide the pipe and coupler onto the header from the engine. Once it's in place, secure it with a zip tie as well.

    Pipe Hanger
    Install Rudder
    Radio Batteries

    The rearward end of the pipe sticks out of the hole in the rear of the boat. You'll want to secure this end of the aluminum pipe with the stainless steel pipe hanger. Slide the bracket over the end of the pipe, and then use the supplied nut to hold the lower end of the hanger in place. The rubber bushing at the lower end will still allow the pipe to flex, absorbing the motor's vibrations.

    The last major item you'll need to address is the rudder. It uses two screws with nuts to secure it to the steering assembly found on the boat. From a standpoint of simplicity, it would have been a little easier for Aquacraft to simply use the same hardware for both screws. However, they didn't. So make sure to keep the smaller screw and nut in the lower hole.

    Last of all; install a set of good AA batteries in the Futaba FM radio. I would recommend the use of brand new AA cells, as this will optimize your range and provide you with the longest lifespan possible. Now you're ready to hit the water!

    The Aquacraft V24 is a massive watercraft. Each time I took it to a local lake, I attracted a large audience of onlookers. Most of then time they simply stood in the background and watched as the V24 made its way across the lake. However they were a few that had some questions as well. In the end, it would take me several trips to get the boat fully broke in, and get some good run time with it. I was hampered by several thunderstorms that interrupted several of my afternoons, and the weather overall was often too wet to take the cameras out.

    It's not that the break-in process was that hard, but rather that the storms would move in so quickly each time. The break-in procedure for the Aquacraft V24 required an oil/fuel mix of 25:1 (4%). You need to run this mixture for about an hour, which equates to around two tanks of fuel. So that's exactly what I did over the first few trips to the lake. A few thunderstorms and trips to the lake, later and the Aquacraft V24 was fully broken in. I then switched to an oil/fuel mix of 40:1, which is 2.5%.

    With the Aquacraft V24 broken in, and the fuel mixture at a more suitable level for performance, I leaned the mixture out slightly. As the boat took to the water again, I kept a close eye on the holes at which the coolant would exit. With the boat running harder, it was even more important to ensure that the lake water was still flowing through the cooling lines. The new fuel mixture, and needle settings, was making a nice difference on the craft's overall performance though. It was running much faster than before when I had been breaking the motor in, in fact during break-in it was downright sluggish. So don't let the lack of power during the first couple of tanks concern you. Once you change the oil ratio, and tune the motor, the V24 can move across the lake very quickly!

    The Aquacraft V24 has a fairly loud exhaust note, thanks to the spun aluminum pipe and the large gasoline-powered motor. It sounds much louder when it's fired up on shore, but once on the lake and moving it's not nearly as bad as you might initially think. The exhaust note sounds excellent overall, providing a nice throaty rumble as the boat roars by. Even at low speeds, the tone of the exhaust let's one know that the boat has one powerful engine sitting inside its hull!

    I started making some lazy laps around the lake, getting used to the handling the V24 provided at higher speeds. It seemed very stable, provided you didn't try to make too sharp of a turn. If you attempted to push the boat a little too hard it would lean, and then it seemed as if the boat's propeller would loose some of the water covering it. This would cause a loss in forward momentum. I used the dual-rate setting on the radio to keep the rudder's travel to a point where this wouldn't happen. Once I did, the Aquacraft V24 could make turn with no visible loss in speed with the propeller properly submerged in the water.

    Launching the boat is best accomplished by two people, although in a pinch one person could do it by themselves. The large size of the V24, combined with the smooth hull of the craft really requires two hands for a successful launch. This keeps you away from the spinning prop, and eliminates the chances of you prematurely dropping the boat.

    Once out on the lake and dialed in the boat became a ton of fun. I found myself pushing it out farther and farther from shore, and the Futaba FM radio did an excellent job of keeping it under control. I raced the boat to the pier and then cutting back out to the wide open expanse of the lake watching it run at speed and throwing a plume of water in its wake. The combination of the wake, and the colors on the V24 made for some of the best pictures I think I've ever taken on the lake of a boat to date. Piloting it, and knowing you could put it anywhere on the lake you wanted, was even more fun!

    It was during one of the early runs that I had a minor mishap with the steering linkage. I had just rounded a turn, and tried to straighten the V24 back up. The boat straightened back up part of the way, but not fully. On top of that I couldn't get it to change directions to the other way at all. So I passed the radio over to someone else, while I jumped into my kayak and headed out to it. Once I arrived, I pulled close to the path of where it was circling, reached over and toggled the kill switch to the off position. The engine promptly shut down. That kill switch came in real handy for this situation!

    I opened up the cockpit to quickly examine the situation and discovered that the rudder linkage had worked its way loose from the servo horn. I then readied myself to head to shore. In the event that you don't have a boat available to retrieve the V24, should something like this occur, the manual suggests using a fishing line and a tennis ball. The slick surface of the Aquacraft V24 doesn't provide you with much to hook on to using this method, but I would imagine this could be done. You will want to be mindful of the opening in the back of the watercraft though, as pulling it backwards can cause water to enter the hull. If that would happen the hull can fill with water and sink about halfway into the lake with its top third sticking out of the lake. It won't fully sink due to the air trapped in the front, but it will require you to dry out the electronics and purge the motor of any moisture.

    Once I had returned to shore, I opened up the electronics box to further examine the throttle linkage. The coupler that connected the rod to the horn had opened up and slipped off. To prevent this from happening again, I unthreaded the adapter. Then I cut off a small section of the coolant line and slide that section onto the linkage rod. Then once I had installed the coupler back into place on the rod, and servo horn, I slid the small section of tubing up onto the coupler. The tubing would keep the coupler tight, preventing it from expanding and loosing its grip as it had done before. This tip was actually mentioned by an onlooker at the lake who uses this sort of linkage adapter often with his planes. So with his suggestion, I was soon ready to hit the water once again!

    Once back on the lake, I experienced no other issues with the linkage, or the boat itself. It performed flawlessly from that point on. After I ran through another tank, I brought the V24 back in for some more fuel. While it was in, I adjusted the propeller to give it more of a positive angle. This allows the bow of the boat to rise up out of the water more, increasing speeds. The handling became much more sensitive once this change was made, but nothing that I couldn't become used to. The increased speeds made the boat much more fun to operate as it zipped across the lake even faster than before.

    Later on, I would take to the lake in my kayak again looking for some close-up video and camera shots. I can say without a doubt that the Aquacraft V24 throws off a serious amount of spray behind it, as I got wet on more than a couple of occasions. Watching the V24 power by when you on the water is even more impressive than watching it from the pier. The wake it left behind surprised me as well, as the One Design would rock my kayak back and forth as it passed by at full speed. This large-sized gasoline powered monster was easily as fast as any 1/10 scale boat I've encountered and provided just as much excitement, if not more!

    I really liked the overall features of the Aquacraft V24. The cooling system, with its three intakes, worked very well at keeping the engine temperatures at an appropriate level. The super-sized rudder easily pointed the craft in the direction I wished it to go. I also found the cockpit lid was much easier to work with since I didn't have to fumble with oversized thumbscrews. However, one of the best items onboard the V24 One Design was simply the FM radio and receiver. Knowing that the boat was controlled by a more reliable FM signal gave me plenty of confidence to run the boat out at a much greater distance from shore than I had with other AM-equipped boats.

    As the day drew to a close I took quick notice of how much fuel I had burned through. It had approached the gallon mark. With all the grumbling about the price of unleaded gasoline these days, the cost seemed pale in comparison to what the afternoon would have cost if I had been using nitro. A single gallon of nitro would have been around $20-25, while I had only spent about $2.70 for a gallon of gasoline. Even after factoring in another dollar for some two-stoke oil, the Aquacraft V24 was still shining brightly as an impressive value in the long run!

    See the Aquacraft V24 in action!
    Resolution:  Low  Medium  High

    The Aquacraft V24 One Design has certainly been a hit with me. The size is perfect for drawing some attention out on the lake, and the fact that it uses traditional pump gas instead of nitro makes it very affordable in the long run. It can move across the surface of the lake very quickly, throwing a ton of water in its wake. Even boating veteran's will love the fact that it comes set up to allow an optional third servo control the propeller angle, giving you the ability to alter the boat's behavior on the fly.

    There simply isn't anything bad to point out on the Aquacraft V24, as this is one of the most well-round watercraft I've ever come across. It's easy and cheap to operate, and built very well. Outside of the minor mishap with the steering linkage, all of my time spent with the boat was without a flaw. It's an excellent job on the part of Aquacraft, and stands as a testament to how well thought out RC boats should be made!

    Distributed Exclusively By
    Great Planes Model Distributors
    P.O. Box 9021
    Champaign, IL 61826-9021 USA
    Phone: (800) 637-7660
    Website: www.aquacraftmodels.com
    Additional Products used: Hand Crank Fuel Pump

    Super Tech
    Distributed Exclusively By
    7000 Marina Blvd.
    Brisbane, CA 94005 USA
    Phone: (800) 966-6546
    Website: www.walmart.com
    Products used: Two-Cycle Engine Oil

    Venom Racing
    10312 N. Taryne St.
    Hayden, ID 83835 USA
    Phone: (800) 705-0620
    Fax: (800) 705-6021
    Website: www.venom-racing.com
    Products used: 5-Cell 1200 NiMH MAh Receiver Pack

    Comments on RCU Review: AquaCraft V24

    Posted by: JCAustralia on 10/14/2008

    Posted by: JCAustralia on 10/14/2008
    Review seems to be very different to what owners of the V24 have to say in the Gas Boat forums..... Strange..... Its always good to ask more than one owner before buying.....
    Posted by: Chris Reid on 08/15/2012

    Page: 1
    The comments, observations and conclusions made in this review are solely with respect to the particular item the editor reviewed and may not apply generally to similar products by the manufacturer. We cannot be responsible for any manufacturer defects in workmanship or other deficiencies in products like the one featured in the review.

    MOTIV“M-Code” Brushless RC MotoOk, enough about Paul because this article is about the MOTIV line of “M-Code” line of motors. The “M-Code” motors come in ma...12/06/2015
    TrinityD4 1SIn late June, 2014, Trinity released the D4 motor to replace the D3.5. Since that time, the D4 has powered cars to 8 ROAR Nat...12/06/2015
    Matt LemayAirbrushing – Take Your Painting ToI’ve decided to create a series of articles dedicated to helping the average hobbyist get into, or at least consider whether ...12/06/2015
    Tamiya Amarok Custom LiftAs an official vehicle of the 2014 Sochi Olympics, Volkswagen built specialized polar edition custom lifted Amarok vehicles u...11/24/2015
    RCGF21cc Twin Cylinder Gasoline EngineRCGF, a Chinese manufacturer of gasoline engines, designs and manufactures engines specifically for 'the RC aircraft market. ...11/23/2015
    RCGF120cc Twin Cylinder Gasoline EngineRCGF, a Chinese manufacturer of gasoline engines, designs and manufactures engines specifically for the RC aircraft market. T...11/23/2015
    Tower HobbiesJ-3 CubWith its distinctive looks, it is probably safe to say that the J-3 Cub is one of the most recognized and known airplanes in ...11/23/2015
    TraxxasSlash VXL Brushless with OBAIn June, I tested and wrote about the Traxxas Slash w/ OBA and how much I enjoyed what the Slash offers. It's been a goto veh...11/23/2015
    Seagull ModelsSteen Super Skybolt 15cc ARFSeagull Models introduced this biplane early on in 2015, and SIG mfg. had a pre-production sample at the Toledo Expo. That pr...11/20/2015
    RCGF10cc Gasoline EngineRCGF, a Chinese manufacturer of gasoline engines, designs and manufactures engines specifically for 'the RC aircraft market. ...11/17/2015
    RCGF20cc Gasoline EngineRCGF, a Chinese manufacturer of gasoline engines, designs and manufactures engines specifically for 'the RC aircraft market. ...11/15/2015
    The World Models30% PT-17 Stearman ARF (U.S. ARMY) Some may call me lucky. I would agree! One of the reasons that the PT-17 is so close to my heart is that I have a personal co...10/03/2015
    RCTECGUsing VRC yet? Why not? After all,You may remember we ran an article not that long ago asking about the value of simulators; you can read that here. Well, as i...10/03/2015
    RCTECHReliving the excitement of your firCan you remember the moment you got your first RC car? I can remember, as a ten year old boy, walking into my first real hobb...09/28/2015
    This Is Only Asking For Problems.Or Is It?How many times has this happened to you? You just finished building your new pride and joy and you are now installing your el...09/28/2015

      Return to Magazine Homepage

    RCUniverse is a service of Internet Brands, Inc. Copyright © 2001-2018.
    Terms of Service | Privacy Policy

    Search | Marketplace | Event Central | Local Clubs | Magazine | Product Ratings | New Products | Discussion Forums

    Photo Gallery | Instructor Search | Field|Track|Marina Search | RCU Youtube Channel | | RCU Twitter!

    Member Locator | Advertisers | Hobby Vendor Resources | Rate Manufacturers | Sign In/Sign Up

    Products Videos WattFlyer.com RC Classifieds

    RCU2 | | 0 | 1 | 06:29:00 PM EST | NC