RCU Review: Hangar 9 Funtana X 100 ARF

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    Contributed by: Jim Stanton | Published: March 2007 | Views: 62764 | email icon Email this Article | PDFpdf icon

    Review by:Jim Stanton & Anthony Cales   Video by: Bob Faria


    Hanger 9 Funtana 100X
    Distributed exclusively by:
    Horizon Hobby
    4105 Fieldstone Rd.
    CHAMPAIGN, IL 61822
    Support (877)504-0233
    Sales (800)338-4639

    Website: www.horizonhobby.com


    See the E-flite
    Tribute in action!

    High Res 19 MB

    Ease of Assembly
    Aerobatic ability


    Hanger 9 has done it again with this very nice FuntanaX 100 3D beauty. If this plane fly's as nice as it looks this will be a 3D plane all of you 3D'ers out there will want to get your hands on.  The colors on this plane are very bright and in a well thought out pattern you can see very easily it the sky.  Well enough talking about how nice she looks lets see how well this FuntanaX goes together.


    Kit Name: Hanger 9 FuntanaX 100
    Price: $219.99 retail price
    Wingspan: 69.5 "
    Wing Area:  1107.80 sq. in.
    Flying Weight as tested: 8.5lbs
    Length: 68.5"
    Radio equipment: JR XP-662, 5 Digital JR 9411 Servo's & 1 JR 537 Servo for throttle

    Engine: Saito 125
    Propellar: APC 16x4

    Additional Items required:

    • Square
    • Hobby Knife
    • Ruler
    • Small Phillips screwdriver
    • drill bits in verrious sizes
    • Pliers
    • Sewing string with wheel collar
    • Thin CA
    • 6 & 30-minute epoxy
    • Tape
    • T-Pins

    Servo installation

    The packaging was first rate.  Everything was wrapped in its own plastic bag and the Box had compartments in it so nothing could be knocked around .  The box had some dents that I am sure were provided by UPS but nothing was broken.  The first thing to do is install the servo's.  You will need to use a 12" servo extension on each servo in the wing.  There was no pull wire provided, but the installation was very simple.  You first tie a collar to a string to provide weight then you tie the other end of the string to the servo lead.  Drop the collar down the wing through the servo cut out in the wing and it will drop right through the wing with ease. Now you install the servo on the wing.

    Servo with weighted string
    Hinges Installed
    Aileron installed
    The next thing to do is install the CA hinges into the wings.  You will find that all of the slots for the hinges are already cut in the correct locations in each wing.  I always run an excato knife into each slot to make sure there is nothing to prevent the CA hinges from going in.  Always use a 1/16" drill bit to drill a small hole in the center of each hinge slot.  This makes it easier for the CA to flow. Place a T-pin at the half way point in each CA hinge. Now you can install the hinges into the aileron and make sure you use only a drop or two of CA on each one.  Also make sure the gap between the aileron and wing is only 1/64"  and that the aileron and wing tip are in alignment.
    Holes already drilled for control horns
    Metal Clevis & 4-40 rod 
    Servo, Rod & Control Horn

    When you start to install the control horns and servo's you will find the holes are already drilled for control horns and servo's.  This makes it very easy and speeds up the installation quite a bit. There is no guess work involved on where do I put the holes for these items.  The next thing to do is to put the control rods for the servo's together.  This is done by using the metal clevis and a 4-40 rod that is 2 7/8" long with nut. Put the nut onto the 4-40 rod and then thread the clevis onto it just so the rod starts to enter between the forks.  Lock the nut done onto the clevis.  Next thread a nylon ball end onto the 4-40 rob.  You will need two of these.  And don't forget to use locktite on the clevis and nut.

    The directions show using a metal control arm on each servo.  I opted to use Du-Bro heavy duty control arms on all on my servo's.  I found that they worked just a well.

    Tape Fuselage
    Test fit Wing Fillet

    Find one of the anti-rotation pins and test fit it into on of the wing panels.  The pin should extend 3/4" out from the wing once installed.  When you have the pin where you want it remove it and roughly sand  the tube.  Put a small amount of 6-minute epoxy on the wing tube and reinstall it into the wing.  While the epoxy is drying cut a piece of plastic packaging and tape it over the area where the wing fillet meets the fuselage.  This prevents gluing the wing to the fuselage by accident. When the epoxy has dried test fit the wing to the fuselage and find the correct wing fillet.  Test fit the wing fillet to the wing and fuselage.  When you have the wing fillet in the correct location remove it and use 6-minute epoxy and glue the wing fillet to the wing making sure you don't get any epoxy on the fuselage (This is why you used a piece of plastic packaging taped to the fuselage).

    Tail Installation
    Servo's mounted
    Carbon Fiber support rods
    Install both wings on the fuselage after all epoxy has had time to set.  Now install and center the Horizontal Stabilizer onto the fuselage.  Check and make sure the distance from both wing tips to the tips of the stabilizer are the same.  Now use a fine felt tip pen and draw a bead along the stabilizer where it meets the fuselage.  Remove the stabilizer and cut away the covering between the marks you made.  It is best to use a hot hobby knife for this so you won't cut into the wood. Mix a small amount of 30-minute epoxy and spread it on the stabilizer and then reinstall onto the fuselage.  Recheck and make sure everything is still in alignment. Locate the Vertical Fin and test fit it onto the fuselage making sure it is at a right angle to the horizontal stabilizer.  Once it is use the felt tip pin again and make another bead along the vertical Fin were it meets the fuselage.  Remove the Fin and cut away the covering.  Mix up another small amount of 30-minute epoxy and use it on the vertical fin and  reinstall the Fin onto the fuselage making sure to maintain the right angle to the horizontal stabilizer.  Put aside and let the epoxy setup. 

    To keep things simple you install the Elevators and Rudder the same why you installed the ailerons.  Except with the rudder you must install the tail wheel.  You do this by drilling a 1/8" hole 1 5/32" up from the bottom of the rudder. You than cut a small notch from there to the bottom of the rudder.  Test fit the tail wheel into the 1/8" hole and notch you just made in the rudder.  Now you well find a small notch in the fuselage where the tail wheel bearing will be glued into. Test fit the tail wheel into the fuselage. Put some oil or petroleum jelly on the tail wheel wire where the bearing is.  Mix a small amount of 6-minute epoxy and apply it to the tail wheel bearing and slot in the fuselage.  Set aside for the epoxy to dry.  Now install the elevators and rudder using thin CA on all of the hinges

    Now we'll mount the servo's into the fuselage.  You'll need three 18" servo extensions for this step.  You'll mount 2 Elevator servo's. One is mounted into the top cut out  on the left side and the other is mounted to the only cut out on the right side.  The servo's of the left side will use a 4-40x3 7/8" rod while the other will use a 4-40x5 1/2" rod.  These servo rod's are made up just like the rods you made for the ailerons. The rudder servo rod is made in the same manner, but the rod is a 4-40x5" rod.   Once you have all of the servo's installed and rods completed you can install the control horns.  Now is a good time to install the carbon fiber horizontal support rods.  You will find there are already holes in the stabilizer and fuselage.  Mix up some 30-minute epoxy and install the rods. 

    Landign Gear
    Wheels & Wheel Pants
    Mounting the Saito
    Motor stick
    Motor stick
    Motor installed

    Install the landing gear by using two 8-32 x 3/4" screws.  The blind nuts are already installed in the fuselage so you just screw the landing gear in.  Next install the axles to the landing gear using the hardware that came in the kit.  Use two 5/32" wheel collars for each wheel and make sure the set screw is positioned so it is looking downward on the axles.  This is so you can adjust the wheel collars once the wheel pants are installed.  Once you have the wheels installed on the axles get a wheel pant and position it on over the wheel.  Each wheel pant has a slot cut into it so it will slide over the wheel and onto the axle.  Use a felt tip pin and mark the wheel pant through the two holes in the landing gear for the 4-40 screws.  After you have done that drill two 5/32" holes in the collar through the light plywood in the wheel collar.  Install two 4-40 blinds nuts and secure the wheel pant to the landing gear.  Do this for the other side also.

    The engine mounts to the firewall using four 8-32 x 1" screws and four #8washers  The blind nuts are already installed into the firewall so it is very easy to install.  We used a new Saito 125 engine for this plane and it was a perfect fit.  The engine was mounted to the engine mount so the drive washer on the engine was 5 1/8" for the firewall.  We used four 8-32x1 1/4" screws with lock washer to secure the engine to the mount.  We than marked the location for the throttle push rod then removed the engine and drilled a 5/32" hole for the push rod tube.  We used Gorilla glue to secure the push rod tube to the firewall.  Now we installed the JR 527 servo for the throttle and inserted the push rod.  Installed a nylon clevis with a fuel line retainer ring so it won't come open in flight.  Reinstall the Saito 125.  Cut the throttle push rod to the proper length and put a Z bend in it.  Put the throttle arm rod over the z bend and installed the throttle arm back onto the Saito making sure it was positioned correctly.

    Next I cut the cowl to fit the Saito.  I used poster board strips for this.  I taped one end the the fuselage about 4" back from the firewall.  I then laid strips over the engine and marked where the head, needle valve and muffler where to exit the cowl.  I removed the engine and mounted the cowl to the fuselage.  I than overlaid the strip onto the cowl and marked the cowl where it was to be cut.  I than got out my Drimmel and cut the opening for the Head, needle valve and muffler.  This seems to work for me. 

    Next is the flight report from a very good 3D pilot.

    Flight Report

    H9 Funtana X 100 

     Pilot Comments

     When I was first approached about flying this airplane for review I asked, what kind of plane? When I was told a Funtana X I got really excited but didn?t know much about the plane or how it should handle. Having flown the Funtana 40 for some time I knew this plane had to be even better.

    Maiden Flight: After going over the pre flight we started the Saito 125 up. The Saito 125 ran flawless just like any other Satio I have ever owned. I taxied the Funtana X to the runway and started the take off roll. The 125 got the plane airborne in a very short distance and I started in on the trimming process. The plane is very true and was assembled very well as it needed only a slight amount of up trim and a slight amount of right aileron trim. The manuals suggested low rates seemed very docile that even a beginner low wing pilot could probably handle this bird. In fact I kind of thought the low rates seemed a little to low (for me) but that?s just pilot preference. I flew the plane around a minute making sure everything was ok then I turned on the high (3D) rates and started trying a few things. I wanted to see if my rates needed any adjusting from what they were originally set on. Everything seemed fine and I could tell the plane was ready to cut loose and be put through it?s paces. I landed the plane flawlessly while on low rates. The Funtana X glides pretty well and will float right down to the runway with ease. I do recommend being on low rates when landing or be very proficient with the high rates and have plenty of expo as the manual suggest.

    The Funtana X was refueled and flown a couple more times before shooting this video for the review. During this video flight you can see that the plane excels in 3D flight. Rolling harriers are very graceful and the plane performs them perfectly. I tried more 3D with it including torque rolls, upright harriers, high alpha knife and I tried to put it in a blender.

    One thing I notice while trying to flat spin the model is that the cg needed to be a little bit further back than the manual?s recommended measurement. Ok, now for the big question everyone is asking (What about the side force generators?)

    I flew the first few flights on the Funtana X without the side force generators to see how it would knife edge for later comparison. The plane would knife edge with little to no pitch and or roll coupling, in fact so little I opted to just fly through it with stick corrections. If I were to try and mix this roll/pitch coupling out it would be very little rudder to aileron and rudder to a little up elevator. A good bit of rudder input was required to maintain knife edge flight at the slower speed.  I then proceeded to bolt on the (very easy to install) side force generators for the video to see how it would perform. As you can see in the video with the generators on the Funtana X it will fly knife edge all day long with plenty of lift at slow speeds and a lot less rudder input than without them. The Funtana X is the first glow powered plane I have flown with these side force generators and it won?t be my last. There were certain 3D maneuvers that I did not perform in the video due to the Funtana needing a cg adjustment.

    The Funtana does really excel at high alpha flight just as H9 says. The upright harrier on this plane is performed with little to no wing rock. I would assume that the inverted harrier should be as stable if not more stable. The Funtana X is stable in a torque roll and looks very pretty might I add. H9 could not have picked any better colors in my opinion. The Saito 125 has plenty of power to pull out although in the video this motor is still very new and rich. The one thing that I didn?t get to test much of was the precision side of the Funtana X. I did try four point rolls and some basic axial rolls which all seemed very smooth and crisp. Based on the little bit of precision I flew I do believe the Funtana X could be a very precise flyer.

    I will tell you that if you want an all out 3D performer or even a great sport plane the Funtana X is for you. I really enjoyed getting to do this flight(s) for the video/review. I was very close to shedding a tear when I had to give the plane back to its owner knowing that I loved how great it flew!

    Compared to my other (Funtana 40) experience this Funtana X is much improved over the old one.

    Anthony Cales

    See the E-flite Tribute in action!

    High Res 19 MB

    Strike a pose







    Hanger 9 seems to have another winner on their hands. This high quality ARF files every bit as nice as it looks. The stability makes this plane a great plane for anyone into 3D flight or my want to just have a great flying sport plane.

    If you are a seasoned 3D pilot and wanting a plane that is easy to transport, but is a ball to fly this just my be your ticket.  This plane is not for you newbies out there that want to try 3D.  This is a serious 3D flyer and can be a great sport plane for those seasoned flyer's.  The only draw back I saw to this plane was she could not take to many hard landing without the land gear coming loose.  That is why I would only suggest this plane for those of you that love 3D and have some good many flight under your belt.

    Over all this is a wonderful plane and I would suggest it to any seasoned flyer.

    Manufacturer Info

    Hanger 9 , JR Radio's & Saito Engines
    Distributed exclusively by:

    Horizon Hobby

    4105 Fieldstone Rd.
    CHAMPAIGN, IL 61822
    Support Phone: (877)504-0233
    Sales Phone: (800)338-4639
    Website: www.horizonhobby.com
    email: support@horizonhobby.com

    Comments on RCU Review: Hangar 9 Funtana X 100 ARF

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    The comments, observations and conclusions made in this review are solely with respect to the particular item the editor reviewed and may not apply generally to similar products by the manufacturer. We cannot be responsible for any manufacturer defects in workmanship or other deficiencies in products like the one featured in the review.

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