RCU Review: Extreme Flight Yak EF - 74 with 46cc Brillelli Engines

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    Contributed by: Jake Ruddy | Published: July 2007 | Views: 37125 | email icon Email this Article | PDFpdf icon
    EF Yak 74" and Brillelli 46cc Combo

    Review by: Jake Ruddy

    Extreme Flight Radio Control
    3600 North Pkwy. Suite 101
    Cumming, GA 30040
    Phone: (770) 887-1794

    Brillelli Engines
    34638 Plum Hill Lane
    Avon, MN 56310
    Phone: (320) 249-7420
    product used: Brillelli 46

    EF Video Dialup
    CLICK HERE to Watch

    EF Video Broadband
    CLICK HERE to Watch

    Ease of Assembly
    Aerobatic ability
    3D Ability
    Covering Quality

    Overall Weight
    CF Wing Tube
    CF Stab Tube
     Removal Stabs
    Pre Installed Canopy


    Extreme Flight RC and Brillelli Engines have teamed up to offer a combo with outstanding pricing and outstanding performance. When it comes to buying a package deal including a gas can and lots of accessories, it's pretty hard to come up with what I would call a complete package.

    Looks like EF and Brillelli have found a way!

    I didn't get to fully build this kit as it was started by AeroBob and then shipped to me. You will notice I have borrowed some pictures from Mike East's review of this plane with the YS 1.60. I have rounded out the review with his pictures to help relay my points. Thanks Mike!



    Kit Name: Extreme Flight Yak 74"
    Price: $399.99 retail price (Brillelli Combo $795 shipped)
    Wingspan: 74 "
    Wing Area: 1120 sq. in.
    Flying Weight as tested: 12.5 Pounds
    Motor: Brillelli 46cc
    Radio equipment: Hitec 645MG x4, Hitec 5645MG x 1, JR 126 Sport

    • Square
    • Hobby Knife
    • Ruler
    • Small Phillips screwdriver
    • CA
    • 30-minute epoxy
    • Gorilla Glue
    • Targon
    • Clear Tape




    Neatly Packed

    When the day comes that your boxes are finally delivered you will see that Chris has taken a great deal of care to ensure your plane arrives. I don't have pics of unpacking the engine... but I can tell you Scott takes great care that your engine is packed properly as well.

    It is clear from the get go that this is a complete package that means business.

    You will quickly notice as you start to unpack your plane that there is lots of quality gear here!

    CF wing tube
    CF Stab tube
    nice hardware package
    robart hinges
    removable stabs
    snap on canopy ( no need for screws it's a spring loaded latch!)

    Complete Contents



    Control Horns
    Removing Ultracoat
    Test Fitting

    The plane comes with some very nice lightweight phenolic control horns. These are not only fairly easy to install, but they give you a strong, lightweight, control horn that looks and performs great! Your ball link goes in the middle for excellent control.

    All of the slots for the horns are pre cut which makes install easy to do as well as makes sure your alignment is properly done to ensure proper performance.

    The biggest thing here is that you want to make sure you remove the covering so that the horn can be glued directly to the surface for maximum strength. Although the slots are pre-cut you want to make sure that your pivot point (where the ball link bolt holes are located) is on the center of the hinge line. You will also want to compare the elevators to each other to make sure they are as close to identical as possible, this will help make sure your elevator throws will be as easy as possible to match. If your horns don't match it will make it will make control throws extremely hard to match.

    Once you have tested to make sure they align you can use 30 min epoxy to glue in the horns... make sure you double check them after you install them with the glue.

    Rudder Hinge Line


    Next will be hinging your surfaces. This won't be too hard to do because the plane includes robart hinges and is pre drilled.

    Personally I am a fan of gorilla glue for hinging. I used to use Epoxy, but Gorilla Glue gives you that added expanding effect for an extra piece of mind.

    There are many techniques you can read about when hinging a surface, one I learned last year and works for me well consists of the following.

    1. Make sure all hinge holes are clear of any loose materials in the holes - I usually just take a blade and clean them out.
    2. Apply a small piece of blue painters tape about 1-2" long covering the hinge hole on the surface
    3. Take an exacto blade and cut a circle uncovering the hole where the hinge point will go
    4. Lightly tape your exacto blade and cut the painters tape in half centered over the hinge hole so that you can easily remove the tape later in 2 smaller pieces
    5. Heat up some vaseline and dip the hinge in it or use a drop of oil so that glue can't stick to the metal pivot point
    6. Take a tooth pick and grab as much Gorilla Glue as you can on the tooth pic and then put it in the hinge hole covering the entire contact surface of the hole
    7. Place hinge in (make sure it's straight!)
    8. Repeat for every hinge of the surface
    9. Every 15 mins or so you will notice some glue expanding out of the hinge hole.. just wipe it clean - after an hr it will stop

    Now wait 2 hrs and then repeat the steps attaching the surface to the plane ie. Al to the wing

    After 2 hrs or so you will be able to peel off the painters tape ( might need to use that exacto blade again) and you will have a hinged wing.

    Lubricating Hinge Point
    Checking Throws
    Sealing Gaps
    Sealed Gaps

    When doing your hinges you want to keep the hinge gap as small as possible. In order to get full 3D throws sometimes you need to leave a small gap to allow for full deflection.

    It is EXTREMELY important for you to seal that gap. If you do not you are opening the door to possible flutter which can destroy a wing and / or plane in a matter of seconds.

    To do this I use the same hinge tape you use on foamies. It sticks very well, is almost clear, and it doesn't make any noise like when you use covering like ultracoat. That snapping noise from covering always got to me

    I just lay the wing or el. down and tape from the bottom.

    1. Extend the surface deflection to full
    2. Start with the tape at one end of the surface and stick it to only one surface
    3, Slowly move to the end of the wing or el. with the tape trying to make sure it is only sticking to one side
    4. Cut the tape to length and fold it in half towards you so that you can get the tape right down in the gap
    5. Slowly work the tape across the entire gap making sure you have secured it properly on both surfaces
    6. Trim any excess

    Fuse Assembly

    Turtle Deck

    Well let's look at the fuse and canopy - all of this is pretty straight forward... Gotta love the spring loaded Canopy release I will take a second here to mention... MAKE SURE you run a bead of canopy glue along the inside of the canopy. A couple have come loose and this is just an extra but of time to make sure you enjoy your plane to the fullest.

    The fuse is built nice and light, all laser cut and the covering is awesome! Not a wrinkle in sight and all the lines match up nicely.

    It doesn't take long to realize just how nice this plane is.


    Spring Loaded
    Side Of Fuse

    Time to attach the stabs.

    Very important here in any plane, but especially because this is a gas plane and will have more vibration make sure you use loctite on the stab screws.. Blue is fine


    Make Sure They Are Tight

    Landing Gear
    Attach Lite Ply Support
    Attach Landing Gear
    Check Wheels
    Attach Wheel Pants
    Final Product

    Alright well I didn't put my wheel pants on.. our field a little bit bumpy and unless it's 30% or larger I generally skip the wheel pants.

    Many of you appreciate a completed model so I will share some pics of Mike East's install. The wheel pants are pretty straight forward, much like most models. They have a piece of ply which you must attach (use epoxy) to give added support for the wheel pant. There are several ways to attach the wheel pant but one of the most secure ways is to use 2/56 or 4/40 blind nuts .. I even use some blue loctite.. If they come loose they get destroyed in a hurry.

    The landing gear uses 4 bolts to mount to the fuse through some aluminum angle bracket for added strength. Remember.. with plastic lock nuts you DO NOT want to use locite.. it weakens the nylon.

    Also a small note to make would be to make sure you grind a flat spot for the wheel collars. If you have ever had to do a one wheel landing once or twice you will appreciate the extra 30 secs of grinding to avoid this happening to you. Recently I started using PSP axles because they are super light and have a nice e-clip so that you just snap it on and forget it. Although at $20.99 a pair you have to decide if it's worth it to you or not.

     Tail Wheel
    Find Holes

    The tail wheel is made of carbon fiber and is very light. It's a simple design and looks effective. Personally I have mixed opinions of whether or not the metal on metal design with cause any RF interference. I replaced the brass piece with a black zip tie that was bent over and glued in to guide the tail wheel.It's just a simple, yet effective precaution.

     Fuel Tank
    Zip Tie Clunk Lines
    Zip Tie! :)

    Next is the fuel tank mounting.... before we get into putting it into the plane I wanted to touch base on a couple things.

    Many people don't realize that over time your fuel tubing will swell a bit and not fit as tight as it did in the beginning. This is often the cause of an unexpected deadstick... whether it be a line to the engine or more likely your clunk coming off. It is very important to spend the extra time to secure things properly... meet your new best friend, the zip tie.

    You will notice that I zip tie every single line on the tank all the way through the fuel T, the filler line, vent line, and on the engine. A dead stick can be.. well deadly if it happens at the wrong time. I went to home depot last summer and bought 1000 of the small 4" ties and 500 12" ties.. for the $40 or $60 I spent I won't have to worry about being in final install mode at 2am and not have a tie to secure things. Some times this leads to taking a chance because you really want to fly that modle the next day... NOT WORTH IT.

    You will notice I choose to mount the tank in the stock location. You can easily modify the mounting and put it on the CG under the wing tube. I just decided to keep it simple and stock this time around.

    Engine Mounting

    Brillelli has been making noise for the last couple years in the engine world. In the last year the word of Scott's customer service has really spread and they are going so quickly they are having problems keeping up with production. Needless to say you may have to weight a bit longer to get your engine, but as the saying goes, "Good things come to those who wait".

    You would be very hard pressed to find something bad said about Brillelli anywhere on RCU. They build a great product. take care of their customers, and are priced very aggressively.

    Key Features

    • Light and Powerful
    • Easy Operation and Mounting
    • Electronic Ignition


    • Type: 2 Stroke Gas
    • Displacement: 46cc
    • Cylinders: Single
    • Total Weight: 56oz RTF with muffler, EI, and Rails
    • Prop Range: 21 x8. 21 x 10, 20 x 10, 22 x 8
    • Benchmark Prop : Xoar 22 x 8 @ 6500rpm
    • Muffler Type: Side dump (Pitts available)

    Engine mounting... well aerobob had already done this work for me so all I had to do was mount it.

    However, I will let you know how I would have done it.

    First you will want the cowl blocks in place, and have test mounted your cowl once.

    1. Epoxy plywood blocks in place
    2. Drill the mounting holes for the cowl
    3. Make sure you harden the holes with CA
    4. If you have bonded washers then use those to mount the cowl (wont come loose with vibration)
    5. Measure the distance from the firewall to where you want the spinner backplate

    Mount engine to al. rails with the matching distance so spinner backplate will be where you want it.

    Mark your thrust lines

    Now we can mount the engine.
    1. Grab a ladder and put the fuse upright with the rudder at the floor.
    2. Then Taped the fuse to ladder so it would stand straight up by itself.
    3. Set the engine on the firewall ( probably wont sit properly)
    4. Put on the cowl so we can center the engine.
    5. Try and tape or trace where the engine rails are going to go and where you need to drill
    6. Drill holes after you have removed the cowl and engine.

    Now just mount the cowl and engine to see if you are centered where you want it.

    One thing to note here... make sure when mounting your engine you use fender washers in the back of the firewall and locwashers to make sure your engine stays mounted securely. You should check the tightness often.

    Radio Install

    Iron Covering On Openings
    Harden With CA
    Keep Geomatory Straight
    Make Sure Connecting Rods Are Tight
    Arm should be 90 Degrees
    Make Sure Wires Are Tight

    Radio install is pretty straight forward on this plane. I tried to highlite some key points in the pictures. One thing that is not pictured is the fact that I zip tie every extension together. You should (if you don't already) secure every extension or connection point. This is a quick way to ensure longer life out of your aircraft. Nothing worse then a battery coming unplugged or an el. servo stop working because you didn't secure everything properly.

    Before you fly double check that everything is secure, if you used metal gear servos be sure you used loctite. Also you should have loctited all your bolts on your engine!

    Let's go flying!

    EF Video Dialup
    CLICK HERE to Watch

    EF Video Broadband
    CLICK HERE to Watch


    Strike a pose

    This is a lot of bang for the buck. Building this combo stock will bring you in at 12-12.5 pounds and with a wing area of 1120 sq. in. it flies light. The complete combo can be found at http://www.brillelli.com/brillelli_013.htm

    The plane tracks well and requires very little mixing to fly effortless 4 point rolls and slow rolls. All precision style flying is performed very well on this plane and considering it is only 74" you would be surprised at how comfortable you will feel with this plane. It feels like you are flying a much larger plane.

    3D wise this plane performs well. I found harriers to be a little bit rocky but not uncontrollable. Rolling harriers were nice (especially with a 21 x 8 prop). Waterfalls and KE Spins were amazing, even slightly nose heavy it really winds up and comes down fast. Pretty awesome to see.

    Overall I wouldn't hesitate to recommend this combo to anyone, in fact I have already recommended it to at least 4 people and had 3 people want to buy mine after seeing it fly.

    Great job EF and Brillelli!

    Extreme Flight Radio Control
    3600 North Pkwy. Suite 101
    Cumming, GA 30040
    Phone: (770) 887-1794
    Web site: www.extremeflightrc.com

    Brillelli Engines
    34638 Plum Hill Lane
    Avon, MN 56310
    Phone: (320) 249-7420
    Web Site: www.brillelli.com
    product used: Brillelli 46

    Comments on RCU Review: Extreme Flight Yak EF - 74 with 46cc Brillelli Engines

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    The comments, observations and conclusions made in this review are solely with respect to the particular item the editor reviewed and may not apply generally to similar products by the manufacturer. We cannot be responsible for any manufacturer defects in workmanship or other deficiencies in products like the one featured in the review.

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