ARF comes very well packaged with all the main sections protected
and sealed in plastic. An included 20 page manual has detailed
step-by-step instructions each accompanied by a clear photo of
the area being assembled.
pre-built main structures are covered in high-quality film. Scale-shaped
landing gear with an airfoiled center section, and lightweight
scale wheels are included.
additional support components needed to finish the Fokker DR-1
are the Great Planes ElectriFly GPMP0823 Lithium Polymer 11.1V
1250mAh 3-Cells In Series Battery Pack, ElectriFly Rimfire 28-30-950
Brushless motor, GPMM3122 Motor to Speed Control Connectors, and
GPMQ4959 3mm Prop Adapter.
micro servos are needed like the Futaba S3114 Micro High Torque
Servo which is ideal for small electric planes and helis.
ElectriFly Silver Series 25A Brushless Speed Control is a perfect
match for the 150w RimFire motor. It comes with a pre-installed
receiver connector, battery connector, and motor connectors.
assembly begins by mounting the ailerons on the upper wing using
the pre-cut hinge material and thin CA. Two pre-cut dowels are
then mounted into the lower wing and held by a small amount
of medium or thin CA.
the DR-1 comes with a pilot figure that can be glued together
and then painted, I decided to take a shortcut and use the FSK101
Pilot "Slim" from Hobby Lobby that comes ready to use.
I simply cut away some of the lower torso and tied the scarf material
from the DR-1 kit around the pilot's neck. The scarf was then
secured with a few drops of thin CA on the knot area.
horizontal stabilizer was glued to the fuselage using medium CA
after first cutting away the covering on the bottom section. The
elevator and rudder were attached similar to the ailerons using
the hinge material and thin CA. I had no alignment problems or
warping of the control surfaces.
motor mounting instructions were a bit unclear as they did not
tell you to remove the metal mounting bracket that comes with
the RimFire motor and replace it with the longer plywood bracket
from the kit. Note: the RimFire motors also come with two
rubber o-rings, which are discarded or not needed when the other end is used to mount the prop. For
the DR-1, we'll be using a prop adapter.
also needed to use slightly longer 3mm screws as the plywood mount
was much thicker. Once the mount was attached to the motor, it
was a simple procedure to follow the manual instructions for mounting
the assembly to the firewall. The three t-nuts come pre-installed.
control horns for the rudder and elevator were CA'ed into the
pre-cut slots. The pre-bent control rods were then inserted from
the aft end of the fuselage and secured to the control horn holes
with the supplied caps. I used the control rod position of least
resistance for determining the direction of entry into the horns.
servos were centered electronically with a live radio system and
then mounted into the bay. The Futaba S3114 servos don't come
with and mounting screws so you need to supply them. The quick
links for the servo arms are supplied in the DR-1 kit. Everything
seemed to fit fine. Using the third hold from the center provided
excellent control surface throw so I set the dual rates to 70%
on both the elevator and rudder.
was set to 50% (or -50% on my Futaba 9C radio) for the elevator.
I don't use exponential on the rudder.
of the things I really like about the power system for the DR-1
is that it is plug and play. No soldering required. The GP Silver
Series ESC comes with motor and battery connectors. The battery
connectors mate directly to the ElectriFly 3-cell 1250mAh LiPo
pack but the motor connectors need the GPMM3122 bullet adapters
to mate with the RimFire brushless motor. Note that I used the
35-amp ESC since Tower Hobbies was out of stock on the 25-amp
ESC. Either one will work work fine.
recommended ElectriFly GPMP0823
1250mAh 3-cell LiPo pack has a separate CHARGE connector for safety.
The charge connector uses built-in "SafeCharge" circuitry
that prevents individual cells from overcharging. If any cell
reaches 4.20V, the SafeCharge circuit automatically stops the
Charge process entirely. While this is entirely safe and greatly
reduces the possibility of fires when charging, it is not as optimal
as balancing the three cells in the pack. If the pack gets stressed
over time and usage, balancing the cells helps to increase safety
and longevity. At $14 less cost, the Great Planes GPMP0713
1250mAh 15C Balance BP1250 3-cell LiPo pack makes an excellent
ESC mounts against the inside of the fuselage wall using the supplied
"hook and loop" pieces. Note that the battery and receiver
wires are closest the top of the fuselage. The long motor wires
are then folded and tucked away from the spinning motor. The rectangular
opening just behind the cowl area is where the battery will be
the motor spins the wrong way, simply swap any two of the motor
to ESC wires. On a Futaba radio system, use reverse on channel
3. When you first plug in the battery pack, you'll hear a single
beep. Move the throttle to full and wait for the second beep.
Move the throttle back to off and the motor is now armed...ready
for flight. Be sure to test this without a prop connected.
the aileron servo wires required some thought. After looking at
the small wing rib openings and reading the technique in the manual,
I decided to deviated from the instructions. I did, however, follow
the instructions for mounting the servos to the plastic covers
after first centering the servo arms with a live receiver and
I tied a second string to one end and then pulled it through to
the middle opening. Next, I tied a separate string to each end
of my Y-adapter harness and routed it into the center hole...one
end at a time. This almost worked but I still needed to cut an
opening near the strut mount to help guide the connector around
it and though the small rib openings. I can either tape the opening
back into place or use some of the supplied extra covering meant
to hide the aileron wires during the final assembly.
that this part of the assembly takes plenty of patience. It helped
me to hold the wing up to a bright light and twist the Y-harness
cable at the center hole to orient the connector until it passed
through the small rib openings. A combination of twisting the
wire, tugging on the string from the other end, and shaking the
wing seemed to work best.
finished up the aileron servo installation by mounting the trays
using 4 supplied screws in the pre-drilled holes. The linkage
was made from two pre-bent rods that were joined together by shrink
tubing and CA.
wing assembly went smoothly and quickly. All the pieces seemed
to fit well and the instructions were easy to follow. The 4 types
of strut mounts are all labeled and a diagram in the manual shows
the proper placement for each wing.
first mounting the center wing using dowel rods and screws, a
plastic (ABS) fairing is glued into place to maintain the fuselage
shape. The bottom wing is mounted next using the same dowel rod
and screw technique. For the top wing, two metal cabanes are mounted
first using the front pinholes and rear strut mounts in the fuselage.
last step is to additionally secure the wings with 4 wooden struts.
I found it easiest to simply drip some Zap thin CA into the strut
mounts after they had the struts in place.