RCU Review: Sig Rascal 40 ARF

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    Contributed by: Ken Isaac | Published: August 2007 | Views: 81749 | email icon Email this Article | PDFpdf icon

    Review by: Ken Isaac (RCKen) | Email me

    SIG Manufacturing Co., Inc.
    P.O. Box 520
    401-7 South Front Street
    Montezuma, IA 50171-0520

    • "Classic" lines of the plane are eye catching
    • High quality of included hardware
    • Quick assembly time
    • Factory installed aileron and elevator hinges
    • Gentle flying
    • Tailwheel assembly
    • Mounting point for floats pre-installed

    • Landing Gear block tore out on grass.
    • Engine installation can be a bit difficult in cowl/engine compartment (see text)
    • Top and bottom of wings are identical in appearance
    • Very little clearance on engine mounts for mounting bolts
    • Foam wheels wear out quickly on asphalt runways

    Earlier this year I was asked if I would like to review the Sig Rascal 40 ARF with an Aviastar .46 engine. Now I?ll be the first to admit that I really didn?t know much about this plane. I knew that Sig Rascal kits have been around for quite a long time and that the owners of these planes are very loyal to the Rascals, but for the life of me I didn?t know why. So when I was given the opportunity to review one in an ARF form I thought it would be a good way to find out what appealed to the owners of a Rascal.

    Based on the original best selling SIG Rascal kit, the Rascal Forty ARF has been up-sized to a full six-foot wingspan with ailerons. The airframe has been beautifully built and professionally covered in a unique trim scheme in your choice of transparent red or transparent blue, with white AeroKote®. The kit offers a wealth of features including a 2-piece wing system, pre-aligned and pre-painted fiberglass wheel pants, a beautiful SIG spinner, and high quality hardware. Even the windshield has been factory-installed.

    Included with the Rascal was an Aviastar .46 2-stroke engine. I will confess that I had never heard of this line of engines before. After receiving it I did a little research and discovered that Sig has been carrying this line of engines for a couple of years. This engine was sent along with the Rascal because Sig is trying to get the word out about the line of engines they carry. During my time in this hobby I?ve been able to try a large sampling of engines on the market so I definitely wasn?t afraid of trying out a new one. Take a few minutes to check it out below.

    Ok, let?s dig in and take a good look at what this plane and engine have to offer?.

    Sig Rascal 40 ARF

    Sig Rascal 40 ARF (Combo package includes engine)
    Price, ARF alone: $199.99
    Price, Combo including engine: $249.99

    Wingspan: 72-1/2" (1842 mm)
    Wing area: 728 in² 47 dm²
    Semi-Symmetrical Elliptical High-Wing.
    Fuselage Length:
    51-3/4" (1315 mm)
    Weight per Mfg: 5 - 5.5 lbs (2270 - 2500 g)
    Engine Required: .40-.46 in³ (6.5 - 7.5 cm³) 2-Stroke Glow
    .40-.53 in³ (6.5 - 9.0 cm³) 4-Stroke Glow
    Radio Required:
    4 Channel, 5 Servos
    Skill level: Beginner to Intermediate Modeler/Fliers

    Actual Flying Weight: 5 lbs, 10 oz.
    Engine Used: Aviastar .46 2-stroke glow engine
    Radio Used: Airtronics Quasar 6 Channel Radio, Airtronics 92765 receiver, Airtronics 94102 standard servos (5)
    Channels Used: 4 total - Ailerons (2 ea.), throttle, rudder, and elevator
    Prop Used: Master Airscrew 11x6
    Center of Gravity: 3.34" (85 mm) Back from the wing's leading edge.
    Control Throws:
    Ailerons: Up & Down 3/4" (18mm)
    Elevator: Up & Down 3/4" (18mm)
    Rudder: Right & Left 1" (26mm)

    Items Required to Complete:

    • channel radio

    • (5) Standard servos

    • (2) 24" [300mm] Servo extension

    • (1) Y-harness

    Tools Required to Complete (per manufacturers guidelines):

    • Selection of glues (thin & thick CA, 5 minute epoxy)

    • Clear dope for fuel-proofing engine cutouts

    • Threadlock compound, such as FTE Z-42 Thread locker

    • Screwdriver assortment

    • Pliers - Needle nose & flat nose

    • Diagonal Wire Cutters

    • Small Allen wrench assortment

    • Pin vise for small diameter drill bits

    • Hobby Knife with #11 blades

    • Scissors

    • Heat covering iron

    • Trim sealing iron

    • Masking tape

    • Paper towels

    • Small power drill with selection of bits

    • Dremel®tool with selection of sanding and grinding bits

    • Soldering iron and solder may also be required.

    Unpacking The Box

    Sig Rascal 40 - First Look Sig Rascal 40 - First Look Sig Rascal 40 - First Look

    The Sig Rascal arrives in a glossy printed box that has plenty of documentation to let you know what you are getting inside. After wandering around in a couple of hobby shops I will make one note if you are buying one: make sure you know what color the plane is. The Rascal is available in a red trim scheme (this is the one I reviewed) and a blue trim scheme, but the picture on the box will show the red scheme no matter what is inside of the box. The end panel of the box will indicate which one is inside. Opening the box reveals all of the major structures individually packaged in plastic bags, the instructions, a decal sheet, and a smaller cardboard box. Opening the smaller cardboard box you will find all of the smaller parts of the plane. Once again they are individually packaged inside plastic bags and sorted by sub-assembly.

    Sig Rascal 40 - First Look Sig Rascal 40 - First Look Sig Rascal 40 - First Look

    As the box was unpacked it was very easy to see that everything was well protected as there was no damage to anything inside of the box. Removing all of the major assemblies leaves the fuselage located in the bottom of the box. There are two cardboard spacers (one is also the box containing the smaller sub-assemblies) that hold it in place and protect it during shipping. With the major components unpacked you will have two wing panels, the horizontal stabilizer, the vertical stabilizer, rudder, and the fuselage. One thing I noticed right away was that the ailerons and elevators are already hinged and secured in place. This is a really nice change from other ARF's that have you secure and hinge these control surfaces. Unpacking the smaller box gives you all of the smaller parts. With most planes that I assemble I place all of the smaller hardware in a closed container so that I have it all in one place when I need it. On the Rascal that wasn't necessary as all of the hardware is placed in bags divided by what assembly it is for. You can leave everything in the bags until you are ready for it.

    Sig Rascal 40 - First Look Sig Rascal 40 - First Look Sig Rascal 40 - First Look

    As I started unpacking the parts and removing them from the plastic bags one thing started to stand out: the quality! I?ve always admired anybody who built a plane and covered it in transparent covering because they were letting the world see their building abilities in the woodwork under the covering. With this in mind Sig can definitely strut their stuff. The woodwork underneath the transparent covering is outstanding. Extra touches such as pre-installed tri-stock bracing on the vertical stabilizer are very nice.

    Sig Rascal 40 - First Look Sig Rascal 40 - First Look Sig Rascal 40 - First Look

    The quality in the covering continued to show through as I unpacked the wing. There are a lot of nice touches in the plane, like a pre-installed pull string in the wing for the aileron servo wire extensions. There has obviously been a lot of thought put into the design, engineering, manufacturing, and packing of this plane. A few other things that stood out as nice quality were the plastic aileron servo covering, the all metal tailwheel assembly, and the included spinner.

    The Manual

    Sig Rascal 40 - The Manual Sig Rascal 40 - The Manual

    The instruction manual for the Rascal ARF is a very well written and informative document. Thumbing through the instructions it's easy to see that SIG put a lot of effort into writing this manual. The manual includes detailed lists of the materials and tools you will need to complete the plane as well as a parts inventory so that you can make sure that you have everything you are supposed to have.

    Sig Rascal 40 - The Manual Sig Rascal 40 - The Manual

    Each step is thoroughly explained as well as being very well documented with plenty of pictures to let you see what needs to be done in each step. For steps that give you options of how to assemble you are provided with a good explanation of each option so that you can make a well informed decision as to how you should proceed. In this day and age of instruction manuals consisting of just pictures it's a nice breath of fresh air to see such a well written instruction manual. This makes it a resource to help you successfully assemble and fly this plane.

    Removing Wrinkles From Covering

    With almost any ARF these days you?re going to find wrinkles in the covering as you remove the parts from the box. There is almost no way for manufacturers to avoid this happening. Differences in climates between where the parts were built and assembled and your location will cause wrinkles to appear in the covering. Because of this there will be wrinkles that need to be removed prior to assembly of the plane. If possible unpack the parts of the plane (including removing them from the sealed bags) and let them sit for a few days before you start working on them. This will allow the wood, glues, and covering of the parts to adjust to the temperature and humidity levels where you live. This will aid in shrinking the covering as there should be little change in the parts later on.

    Sig Rascal 40 - Removing Wrinkles Sig Rascal 40 - Removing Wrinkles Sig Rascal 40 - Removing Wrinkles

    The Sig Rascal 40 is covered in Sig AeroKoteâ. This was the first plane that I have seen with this brand of covering, so I was a little apprehensive about tightening the covering. This was because I had no idea what the characteristics of the covering were, or the proper temperatures to use to shrink and tighten the covering. A quick trip to the Sig Website and I was able to get the temperature settings to use with Sig AeroKoteâ, which I have listed below. With this I set my irons to applicable settings and went to work at removing the wrinkles from the covering.

    Sig AeroKoteâ Temperature Ranges

    Adhesive Activates 200° F (93° C)
    Shrink Begins 210° F (99° C)
    Maximum Shrinkage 250° F (121° C)

    Experience with ARF?s has taught me to not just dive in and start re-shrinking the covering. Sometimes this can lead to the covering pulling away from the edges of the part, or covering panels pulling apart at seam lines. In order to prevent this I start by using my covering iron to seal down all of the edges of the covering on all parts of the plane. This can take some time to accomplish, but trust me that it?s well worth the time spent doing it. After I sealed all of the edges of the covering I used a trim iron to go around all the seams where the covering panels met, especially where the transparent and white AeroKoteâ met. I took some extra time here, as I didn?t want these two pieces of covering to pull apart.

    Sig Rascal 40 - Removing Wrinkles Sig Rascal 40 - Removing Wrinkles Sig Rascal 40 - Removing Wrinkles

    With the edges all sealed I then used a heat gun to shrink the covering and pull the wrinkles out. As I heated the covering with the heat gun I liked how the covering responded. The covering shrank at a very predictable rate and it was very easy to shrink out all of the wrinkles from the covering. After the covering was tight and all of the wrinkles were removed I used a covering iron with a Hot Sock on it to adhere the covering to the wood below. The Hot Sock allowed me to put a little pressure on the covering to help adhere it to the wood below without marring the finish of the covering.

    With the covering tight and all the wrinkles removed it's time to move on and start putting this bird together.

    The Wing Halves

    The Rascal has a two piece wing design where the wing halves do not need to be glue together. The wing dihedral is set with an aluminum dihedral brace that also helps to secure the wing halves together. The dihedral brace is inserted in a pocket in each wing half located on the spars. There is also a metal alignment pin that is inserted in each wing half at the rear of the wing halves. When I did a test fit I was very pleasantly surprised to see that the wing halves fit perfectly together and required no adjustments or trimming to get them to fit. The plane is designed so the wings simply slip together on the dihedral brace and the rear alignment pin. Once the two halves are slipped together the wing will be mounted on the wing saddle of the fuselage with two dowel rods at the leading edge of the wing that insert into holes in the forward fuselage former. The wing is then secured in place by wing mounting bolts at the rear of the wing. This is a very simple, yet very functional, design that will allow the Rascal to be transported in smaller vehicles. Yet this design gives great strength in the wing to allow it to perform in the air.

    The instructions for the Rascal do give the pilot a choice of gluing the dihedral brace and alignment pin in place in one wing half, or leaving it separate and assembling them on the plane when you are ready to fly. The biggest reason why this would be done is to secure the dihedral brace and alignment pin to a wing half so that it will not get lost in storage or transportation of the plane. I decided to go ahead and do this in order to demonstrate how this would be done.

    Sig Rascal 40 - Joining the Wing Halves Sig Rascal 40 - Joining the Wing Halves Sig Rascal 40 - Joining the Wing Halves

    Aileron Installation

    Sig Rascal 40 - Aileron Installation Sig Rascal 40 - Aileron Installation Sig Rascal 40 - Aileron Installation

    The Rascal utilizes two servos to operate the ailerons, with one on each wing. The kit provides hatch covers for the ailerons and each aileron servo will be mounted directly to this cover. To start off, place the servo on the cover so that the servo control arm is centered in the fairing portion of the cover. I found it easier to use a clamp to hold the servo in place so that I could mark its location. For each servo mount there are two wood blocks provided. Place a block on the servo that is clamped to the servo cover and mark where to drill the mounting holes. Remove the blocks and drill the mounting holes in each block. Use the servo mounting screws to tap threads in each hole by screwing them into the hole. Then use thin CA to harden the threads in each hole.

    Sig Rascal 40 - Aileron Installation Sig Rascal 40 - Aileron Installation Sig Rascal 40 - Aileron Installation

    Next, glue the blocks to the servo hatch cover. These need to be glued in place with epoxy. Before gluing them in place use a bit of sandpaper to rough up the plastic to give the epoxy a better surface to grip to. Apply epoxy to each block and place them on the servo hatch cover and clamp in place. Set them aside until the epoxy sets. I have completely stopped using standard screws for mounting servos in any plane I fly. Instead I prefer to use Socket Head screws from www.microfasteners.com. I love using these because they simply do not strip out like screws can do. I highly recommend that you use them for your mounting hardware. Once the epoxy has set on the servo mounts you can mount your servos. Place each servo on the mounting blocks and secure in place.

    Sig Rascal 40 - Aileron Installation Sig Rascal 40 - Aileron Installation Sig Rascal 40 - Aileron Installation

    The mounting holes in each servo hatch cover are predrilled. Place the servo hatch in place over the opening in the wing and mark the location of the mounting holes. Use a 1/16? drill bit to drill pilot holes at each marked location. Use the supplied screws to tap out each hole and then use thin CA to harden the threads in each hole. Make sure you give the CA ample time to dry before installing the screws or you may never get them out! The wing comes with a pull string already in place. Use this to pull your servo extension wire through the wing panel. Before securing the servo hatch in place plug your servo into the receiver and apply power to it. By doing this you will put the servo into its neutral centered position. With the servo centered install the control horn and the servo pushrod on the control horn. Now install the servo hatch in place using the supplied 4 sheet metal screws.

    Sig Rascal 40 - Aileron Installation Sig Rascal 40 - Aileron Installation Sig Rascal 40 - Aileron Installation

    Use the included control horn to mark the location for the control horn mounting holes. Now drill out each mounting hole. Verify that each hole is properly drilled so that you can mount the control horn and, when satisfied, harden each hole with the CA. Once the CA has dried install each control horn with the supplied screws. Center the aileron on the wing and install the pushrod to the control horn. Use the clevis to make adjustments in order to mount the pushrod so that the aileron stays centered. With the pushrod attached to the control horn slide the silicon fuel line keeper in place over the clevis.

    Assembling the Fuel Tank

    Sig Rascal 40 - Fuel Tank Setup Sig Rascal 40 - Fuel Tank Setup Sig Rascal 40 - Fuel Tank Setup

    A 260cc (8.8 oz) fuel tank is included with the Rascal. There are no surprises with the fuel tank as the setup is the same as most of the fuel tanks on the market today. Included with the tank are the clunk, internal fuel line, rubber stopper, aluminum fuel tubing, and the metal back plates for the stopper. The fuel tank can be set up as either a 2-line or 3-line setup, and enough materials are included to set up either option. I decided to set up the Rascal using the Du-bro fueling valve and a 2-line setup for the fuel tank. To set up the stopper I first assembled the rubber stopper, the two metal back plates, and the screw used to tighten the stopper. The stopper comes with two holes already opened up, so if you are going to set up a 3-line fuel system you will need to open up the third hole in the stopper using the tip of a hobby knife. The fuel pickup line is simply a straight piece of tubing through the stopper. The tubing can be cut to length by rolling back and forth under a hobby knife, which will cut the tubing without crushing it. The vent line for the tank needs to be bent upwards so that it touches the top of the fuel tank when inserted inside of the tank. For vent lines I will use a grinding wheel on my Dremel to angle the vent line a little bit.

    Sig Rascal 40 - Fuel Tank Setup Sig Rascal 40 - Fuel Tank Setup Sig Rascal 40 - Fuel Tank Setup

    The pickup line is constructed using the provided clunk and fuel tubing. The length of the pickup line needs to be long enough so that the clunk comes within approximately 1/8? from the back of the fuel tank. This will allow the clunk to freely move to all parts of the tank as the plane is inverted. When I assemble a fuel tank I insert a small piece of the aluminum tubing into the middle of the fuel pickup line. Doing this will add a little stiffness to the fuel line which will prevent it from bending forward and getting stuck in the front of the fuel tank.

    The completed stopper assembly is then inserted into the fuel tank and the screw for the stopper is then tightened. Tighten the screw just enough to snug the stopper into the tank, but do not over tighten the screw as this can split the tank. A good rule of thumb here is to tighten the screw until you cannot turn the stopper assembly. I like to use a Sharpie marker to label the lines on the fuel tank to prevent confusion later on. . Also included with the Rascal is a mounting bracket for mounting a Dubro Fueling Valve.

    Mounting the Engine and Fuel Tank

    I have to be honest that I found mounting the engine the hardest part of assembling this plane. To be fair to Sig I will say that I had a bit of a brain cramp as I installed the engine and probably made it a bit more difficult for myself than it should have been. I found it difficult to get the engine mounted with the carburetor on the engine, but I didn?t modify the engine compartment at all. If I had simply cut the opening a bit wider I would not have had any problems. I guess hindsight is indeed 20/20 vision. I would highly recommend that, if needed, you cut the engine opening a bit wider to facilitate your engine install. I do hope that everybody out there can benefit from my mistake. So let?s take a look at installing the engine and fuel tank on this plane.

    Sig Rascal 40 - Mounting the Engine and Fuel Tank Sig Rascal 40 - Mounting the Engine and Fuel Tank Sig Rascal 40 - Mounting the Engine and Fuel Tank

    The Rascal has a little bit of a different engine mount than a lot of ARF?s out there these days. The engine mount consists of two metal bars that bolt directly to the wood frame of the plane, and then the engine will bolt to the metal bars. I labeled each bar so that I didn?t confuse them as I was drilling out the mounting holes. The easiest way to prepare the mounts for drilling is to put the engine on them so that they can be marked for drilling. Use a small amount of thin CA to temporarily ?glue? the engine to the mount. But before this is done it will need to be determined where to position the engine on the mount. Install the spinner backplate on the engine output shaft to position it. I used a little bit of scrap 1/16? balsa to set the gap between the spinner and the fuselage. Put a couple of small drops of thin CA on the bottom of the mounting lugs of the engine and then position it on the mounts, using the balsa to set the position of the engine.

    Sig Rascal 40 - Mounting the Engine and Fuel Tank Sig Rascal 40 - Mounting the Engine and Fuel Tank Sig Rascal 40 - Mounting the Engine and Fuel Tank

    Once the CA has dried remove the bolts holding the metal bars in place and remove them along with the engine. Now mark the position of the engine mounting holes on the bar, and then snap the bars off the engine. Use a 9/64? drill bit to drill the mounting holes into the metal bars. Now you can use the supplied bolts and locknuts to secure the engine to the mounting bars. Before mounting the engine into the fuselage it?s a good time to go ahead and mount the fuel tank. Use the foam to pad the sides, top and bottom of the fuel compartment before inserting the fuel tank. The fuel tank is inserted from inside the fuselage into the fuel tank compartment. When doing this make sure to orient the tank so that the top of the tank is at the top of the fuselage. The kit contains a piece of balsa used to secure the tank into the fuselage. Place a piece of foam between the tank and the balsa block. A small drop of medium CA will secure this block in place to secure the tank, but can easily be broken out if the tank needs to come back out. When placing the tank make sure that the neck of the tank inserts firmly into the hole in the fuselage before securing it in place.

    Sig Rascal 40 - Mounting the Engine and Fuel Tank Sig Rascal 40 - Mounting the Engine and Fuel Tank Sig Rascal 40 - Mounting the Engine and Fuel Tank

    Before installing the engine it?s also a good time to mount the remote fueling valve if one is going to be installed. Simply secure the valve into the previously installed mounting bracket. When I set up a plane I prefer to use two different color fuel lines so that I always know which line is which: pink line for fuel pickup/delivery and blue for vent/pressure. Next the fuel lines are installed and placed in the engine compartment. The fuel pickup line will go from the tank to the remote fueling valve, and then the line will run from the valve and be attached to the carburetor when the engine is installed. The vent line is attached to the tank and will be connected to the muffler pressure tap when the engine is installed as well.

    Sig Rascal 40 - Mounting the Engine and Fuel Tank Sig Rascal 40 - Mounting the Engine and Fuel Tank Sig Rascal 40 - Mounting the Engine and Fuel Tank

    The fuselage of the Rascal needs to have openings cut into it in order for the muffler and needle valve to exit the engine compartment. With the design of the Rascal fuselage the easiest way to cut these holes is to install the engine in the fuselage. Before doing this place tape over the exhaust port and carburetor opening to prevent any wood or debris from entering these ports as the fuselage is cut. The engine is then mounted back into the fuselage. With the engine in place use a small drill bit to drill through the fuselage at each end of the exhaust port of the engine. This will give a general idea of where the fuselage needs to be opened up. Using the muffler as a guide, mark an outline of where the hole will need to be cut. Start off by drilling a starter hole into the center of the marked area. Then use a Dremel tool to slowly carve out the hole in the fuselage.

    Sig Rascal 40 - Mounting the Engine and Fuel Tank Sig Rascal 40 - Mounting the Engine and Fuel Tank Sig Rascal 40 - Mounting the Engine and Fuel Tank

    Continue carving away and opening the hole until it is wide enough to be able to mount the muffler to the engine. Make sure to open the hole up enough to be able to get the vent line from the fuel tank through. Once the opening is completely opened up the edges need to be sealed to prevent fuel and exhaust residue from soaking into the wood. Mix a small amount of epoxy and use a disposable brush to ?paint? the wood of the opening. As a side note, the Racal has the wood of the engine compartment sealed at the factory and will not need to be done by the modeler when assembling the plane. The hole for the needle valve is drilled and opened in the same manner as the hole for the muffler. Once the engine compartment has been completely prepared the engine can be taken out, the tape removed and the engine permanently installed into the fuselage. When installing the engine place blue threadlock on the mounting bolts and then use them to secure the engine in place.

    Sig Rascal 40 - Mounting the Engine and Fuel Tank Sig Rascal 40 - Mounting the Engine and Fuel Tank Sig Rascal 40 - Mounting the Engine and Fuel Tank

    With the engine mounted in place the fuel and vent lines can now be connected. Next the muffler and needle valve can be installed.

    Sig Rascal 40 - Mounting the Engine and Fuel Tank Sig Rascal 40 - Mounting the Engine and Fuel Tank Sig Rascal 40 - Mounting the Engine and Fuel Tank

    Finally the prop and spinner need to be installed. I chose a Master Airscrew 11x6 prop for the Rascal as I felt it would give the best all around performance for a plane of this type. First install the spinner backplate, then the propeller, the thrust washer and finally the prop nut. Place the prop so that it hits the compression of the engine when it is at approximately the 2-o'clock position. This will make it easier to flip start the engine if an electric starter isn?t used. When tightening the prop bolt use a box end wrench in order to fully tighten the bolt on the plane. Many people will try to use the 4-way wrenches used to remove glow plugs, and will not fully tighten the bolt securing the prop. This leads to the prop being thrown if the engine backfires. Lastly, install the spinner on the plane and tighten the two screws to secure it.

    Fuselage and Tail Group Assembly

    Sig Rascal 40 - Fuselage and Tail Group Sig Rascal 40 - Fuselage and Tail Group Sig Rascal 40 - Fuselage and Tail Group

    Assembling the tail group is pretty straightforward with no surprises. The assembly begins by mounting the horizontal stabilizer. The horizontal stabilizer for the Rascal comes out of the box with the elevator already hinged. Take a few seconds here to verify that the elevator is indeed firmly attached to the horizontal stabilizer. Before attaching the stabilizer verify that it will mount properly. I clamped the stabilizer in place on the fuselage and then set the plane on a level surface. With the wing attached, stand behind the fuselage and look straight down the fuselage from the rear of the plane. The horizontal stabilizer should be parallel with the wing of the plane. If the stabilizer isn?t parallel to the wing sand the mount on the fuselage until it will sit parallel.

    Next we need to check that the stabilizer is square to the fuselage. To do this the stabilizer needs to be checked from a fixed point on the fuselage. I chose a point on the fuselage just forward of the wing. Measure and mark the center of the fuselage at this point. From this point the distance to each side of the horizontal stabilizer will be measured, making sure that you measure to the same point on both sides of the stabilizer. Adjust the stabilizer until the distance is the same on both sides. A quick note here. Try to avoid using items like string to measure this distance. This is because string will stretch and it will be difficult to get an accurate measurement. I use a dressmaker?s tape measure for checking this measurement.

    When you are satisfied with the position of the stabilizer turn the fuselage over and mark the position on the stabilizer using a Sharpie marker. I prefer to use Sharpie type markers here because they will clean up easily with a paper towel and a little bit of rubbing alcohol.

    Sig Rascal 40 - Fuselage and Tail Group Sig Rascal 40 - Fuselage and Tail Group Sig Rascal 40 - Fuselage and Tail Group

    With the position marked we now need to remove the stabilizer in order to epoxy it to the fuselage. Sig has done a great job with this ARF and that is evident in the fact that the covering has already been removed in the area we need to epoxy. Mix up a batch of 30-minute epoxy and apply it to the mount on the fuselage. Position the stabilizer on the fuselage and clamp it in place. Use a paper towel with alcohol on it to clean up any epoxy that squeezes out as you clamp it in position. Use 30-minute epoxy for this in order to have enough time to turn the fuselage back over and recheck your alignment before the epoxy sets.

    Sig Rascal 40 - Fuselage and Tail Group Sig Rascal 40 - Fuselage and Tail Group Sig Rascal 40 - Fuselage and Tail Group

    With the horizontal stabilizer in place the vertical stabilizer will be mounted next. Place the stabilizer in place on the plane and trace out the edges of the forward edge of the stabilizer using a Sharpie marker. The covering in the area will need to be removed prior to gluing the stabilizer in place. To attach the vertical stabilizer mix up a small amount of 30-minute epoxy and apply it to the bottom of the stabilizer. Place the stabilizer on the fuselage and secure it in place with masking tape. Use a square to check that the stabilizer is at a 90° angle to the horizontal stabilizer and adjust it as needed to get it square.

    Sig Rascal 40 - Fuselage and Tail Group Sig Rascal 40 - Fuselage and Tail Group Sig Rascal 40 - Fuselage and Tail Group

    While the epoxy is setting on the stabilizer, work on the rudder can begin. The first thing that needs to be done is to mount the steering arms for the tailwheel. Position the arms on the rudder and mark the position of the mounting holes using a marker. Drill out the holes with a 1/16? drill bit and use the supplied mounting screws to cut threads in the holes. Remove the screws and use thin CA to harden the threads. When the CA has dried the steering arm can be mounted on the rudder.

    Sig Rascal 40 - Fuselage and Tail Group Sig Rascal 40 - Fuselage and Tail Group Sig Rascal 40 - Fuselage and Tail Group

    The rudder is the only control surface that does not come attached from the factory. The rudder mounts with standard CA hinges. To do this first mark the centerline of each hinge and insert straight pins in each hinge on this center mark. Then insert the hinges into the rudder. Next mount the rudder into the vertical stabilizer. Remove the pins and position the rudder as close to the stabilizer as possible. Turn the fuselage on its side and deflect the rudder as far as possible. With the rudder deflected apply 4-5 drops of thin CA to each hinge. Hold the rudder for a few seconds after application to give it time to set before proceeding. Now turn the fuselage over and repeat these steps on the other side. After the CA has set on the other side flex the rudder back and forth a few times to ensure proper movement.

    Sig Rascal 40 - Fuselage and Tail Group Sig Rascal 40 - Fuselage and Tail Group Sig Rascal 40 - Fuselage and Tail Group

    The last part of the tail group is to attach the tailwheel assembly. Position the assembly according to the measurements provided in the instructions and mark the mounting holes. Use a 1/16? bit to drill the holes and cut the threads with the supplied screws. Use thin CA to harden the threads and mount the tailwheel assembly when the CA has completely dried. The springs for the tailwheel steering will not be installed until after the radio equipment is installed in the plane.

    Installing the Landing Gear

    The landing gear hardware included with the Rascal is very nice quality gear. The wheel pants are made from a lightweight fiberglass and expertly finished in high gloss paint. If there is a weak point to the landing gear it would be the foam wheels provided. I would have liked to see rubber wheels provided as I fly off of an asphalt runway which can be rough on foam wheels. But those who fly off of grass or aren?t as rough on landing gear as I am will find the foam wheels very adequate.

    Sig Rascal 40 - Landing Gear Sig Rascal 40 - Landing Gear Sig Rascal 40 - Landing Gear

    To assemble the landing gear start by inserting an axle bolt though the wheel and tightening a lock nut on the other side. This is tightened down to the point that the wheel can still spin freely on the axle but doesn?t ?wobble?. This is then inserted into the mounting hole in the landing gear. Then another lock nut is placed on the bolt and tightened down to secure the landing gear in place.

    Sig Rascal 40 - Landing Gear Sig Rascal 40 - Landing Gear Sig Rascal 40 - Landing Gear

    The landing gear is pre-drilled with the mounting holes for the wheel pants to mount to. Also, the wheel pants are already drilled with the mounting holes and blind nuts installed inside the wheel pant. The wheel pant is slid over the wheel onto the axle. Then line up the mounting holes in the wheel pant with the holes in the landing gear. The wheel pant is then secured in place with two bolts and lock washers. Make sure to check for proper wheel rotation once the wheel pant is secured. The other wheel pant is then installed using this same procedure.

    Sig Rascal 40 - Landing Gear Sig Rascal 40 - Landing Gear Sig Rascal 40 - Landing Gear

    The landing gear mounting block is pre-drilled and has blind nuts installed to mount the landing gear to the fuselage. The landing gear will be mounted with 2 M4 x 20mm (3/4?) bolts and split ring lock washers. Put a small amount of blue thread lock on the bolt before inserting and tightening it. The installed landing gear with wheel pants really adds to the classic lines of the Rascal

    Radio Installation

    Sig Rascal 40 - Radio Installation Sig Rascal 40 - Radio Installation Sig Rascal 40 - Radio Installation

    Installing the radio equipment in the Rascal is very easy to do. The two aileron servos are already installed in the wings, so now the remaining servos need to be installed in the fuselage. The servo mounting tray is already installed inside of the fuselage, so all that needs to be done is to drill the mounting holes and mount the servos. First place a servo into each of the holes in the mounting tray and mark the location for each servo mounting screw. Remove the servos and drill each mount hole with a 1/16? drill bit. Then use the servo mounting screws (I used the Socket Head Screws from www.microfasteners.com mentioned above) and thread them into each hole to cut threads in the wood. Remove the screws and use thin CA to harden the threads and allow time for the CA to dry completely. Now the three servos can be mounted in the servo tray. Make sure to pay attention to the orientation of the output shaft of the servo and where the control arms will be.

    Sig Rascal 40 - Radio Installation Sig Rascal 40 - Radio Installation Sig Rascal 40 - Radio Installation

    On the Rascal I chose to mount the switch on the right-hand side of the fuselage because the placement of the engine has exhaust residue on the left side of the plane. I used a Dubro remote mount for mounting the switch in the fuselage side. The remote mount provides a template for cutting the holes to mount the switch, so it?s a pretty easy task to cut the hole and mount the switch into the side of the fuselage. For mounting the receiver I decided to place it just forward of the servo mounting plate. In order to secure it inside of the fuselage I cut two small blocks of basswood and screwed an eyehook into each block. I then glued those to the floor of the fuselage on each side of where the receiver would be mounted. With the receiver in place I used rubber bands stretched between each eyehook to secure the receiver in place. I drilled a small hole in the bottom of the fuselage to run the antenna out of the fuselage. I use a servo control arm on the antenna wire as a strain relieve inside of the fuselage in order to keep pressure off of the receiver if anything snags the antenna wire. I ran the wire back to the tailwheel mount where I used a small spring and another servo arm to secure the antenna wire. The spring will keep the wire tight and out of the way on the bottom of the fuselage.

    The last thing I did was to use a couple of self-adhesive wire management tie-downs to secure the aileron Y-harness to the bottom of the wing and bring it to the back of the wing. The reason I did this was a bit silly, but I didn't want to see the wire hanging down inside of the cockpit when the plane was assembled. This way the wire drops down back behind the cockpit windows and can't be seen from outside of the plane. I connected the Y-harness to the receiver with a 6" servo extension wire.

    I did not mount the battery at this time because I wanted to be able to adjust the CG of the plane when I balanced it.

    Pushrod Installation

    Sig Rascal 40 - Pushrod Installation Sig Rascal 40 - Pushrod Installation Sig Rascal 40 - Pushrod Installation

    The pushrods for the rudder, throttle and elevator are constructed from the included nylon tubing. To assemble them it is required to thread the metal control links into the nylon. The instructions call for inserting the control link into the chuck of a drill, and then using the slow speed of the drill to thread the link into the tubing. While doing this, extra care needs to be taken to not damage the threads of the link. The link needs to be threaded approximately ¼? into the tube. The instructions next call for threading the clevis onto the link, but I decided to add a little bit here. Most pushrods have threaded clevises on one end and the pushrod is secured at the servo end so that it is not able to turn. But the Rascal?s setup has a threaded clevis at each end of the pushrod. This can lead to the pushrod turning from vibrations when the plane it running. In order to stop this I added a stop nut at each end of the pushrod, threaded onto the link and it will be tightened against the clevis once the control throws are set. This will keep everything tight and prevent it from turning. Once this end of the pushrod is completed the pushrod is inserted into the pushrod tube.

    Sig Rascal 40 - Pushrod Installation Sig Rascal 40 - Pushrod Installation Sig Rascal 40 - Pushrod Installation

    The control horn is mounted next. Connect the clevis to the control horn and hold it in place on the rudder, lining the holes of the horn with the hinge line of the rudder. Use a marker to mark each hole in the control horn. A 1/16? drill is used to drill the mounting holes for the control horn. Mount the control horn by placing the screws through the control horn, the rudder and screwing them into the backplate of the control horn. Connect the pushrod clevis to the control horn.

    Sig Rascal 40 - Pushrod Installation Sig Rascal 40 - Pushrod Installation Sig Rascal 40 - Pushrod Installation

    Next use two craft sticks (popsicle sticks) and two clamps to center the rudder and hold it there while marking the length of the pushrod. Thread a clevis onto a metal control link so that 3-4 threads extend into the clevis. Center the servo control arm on the servo and mark the pushrod so that the control link will thread in approximately ¼?. Remove the pushrod from the plane and cut to length on the mark. Now thread in the control link using a drill in the same manner as the other end of the pushrod. Reinsert the pushrod leaving the rudder still centered. Now thread the clevis back onto the control link and adjust so that it will mount into the servo control arm.

    With the rudder pushrod completed the elevator and throttle pushrods are constructed in the same manner. With the pushrods installed the control throws can be set. The control surface throws for the Rascal are set as follows:

    Ailerons: 3/4" up, 3/4" down
    Elevators: 3/4" up, 3/4" down
    Rudder: 1" left, 1" right

    Installing Steering Springs

    Sig Rascal 40 - Pushrod Installation Sig Rascal 40 - Pushrod Installation Sig Rascal 40 - Pushrod Installation

    The tail wheel on the Rascal is steered by the rudder through springs attached to the rudder by the previously installed steering arms and the tailwheel control arms. I like planes that have spring steering on the tailwheel as this will absorb any shock on the tailwheel and not transfer it to the rudder. With the rudder, rudder servo, pushrods and tailwheel assembly installed the springs can now be installed. Make sure that both the rudder and tailwheel are centered and insert each spring into the steering arms on the rudder. Make sure that both springs stay even as they are installed. At the rudder twist the spring wire back over on itself and then wrap it around itself a couple of times to secure it. This is then done in the same manner on the tailwheel steering arm. Next the other spring is done in the same manner, making sure to keep it even with the first spring as it is secured.

    Any excess spring wire can now be snipped off, although you may want to leave a little bit of excess wire until after you have flown the plane. This would make it easier to unwrap the wire in case you need to adjust the tension of the wire to increase or decrease the sensitivity of the steering.

    Installing the Windows

    Sig Rascal 40 - Pushrod Installation Sig Rascal 40 - Pushrod Installation Sig Rascal 40 - Pushrod Installation

    The Rascal has the front windshield pre-installed when it arrives, but the side windows will need to be installed during the assembly of the plane. To install the side windows they will need to be cut out and trimmed, leaving approximately 3/8? of material around the window. I use Formula 560 Canopy Glue to attach the side windows to the inside of the fuselage. Place a bead of glue around the window in the ?lip? of material that we left after it was cut. Place the window in the fuselage and secure in place (I prefer to use blue painter?s tape for things like this) to allow the glue to dry. After taping the window in place use a paper towel to wipe away any glue that may have squeezed out when it was put in place. After the glue is dry remove the tape.

    Installing Graphics

    Sig Rascal 40 - Pushrod Installation Sig Rascal 40 - Pushrod Installation Sig Rascal 40 - Pushrod Installation

    The graphic decals that are included with the Rascal are self-adhesive and can be applied directly to the plane. Even with this I recommend that the graphics be applied to the plane using Windex. Using Windex will allow the graphic to be put in place and properly positioned with ease. Without Windex there is no way to adjust the position of the graphic once it is set on the surface of the plane. This is a very easy procedure to do and has outstanding results. Start off by checking the position of where you want the graphic on the plane. Once you are satisfied with where it will be placed spray Windex on this area. Remove the backing paper from the graphic and then set it in place on the plane. Position the graphic where you want it to be and work the Windex out from under the graphic. This can be done with a squeegee, an old credit card or piece of stiff cardboard. When you have as much liquid as possible out from underneath the graphic, lightly use a paper towel to dry the graphic off. Now allow the graphic to dry overnight without being disturbed . After it is dry the graphic will be firmly secured in place.

    Balancing the Rascal

    Sig Rascal 40 - Balancing the Rascal Sig Rascal 40 - Balancing the Rascal Sig Rascal 40 - Balancing the Rascal

    To balance the Rascal the CG should be located 3-3/8? back from the leading edge of the wing, but can be as far back as 3-7/8? if the pilot desires. I used a Great Plane CG machine to balance the Rascal at the recommended CG point. I had not installed the battery in the plane prior to balancing so that I could use it to shift weight in the plane if needed to adjust the CG to the recommended location. Initially the plane balanced slightly nose heavy without the battery. I placed the battery behind the CG to bring the plane in to level balance on the CG machine. When I was satisfied with the balance I installed the battery underneath the servo tray in the fuselage. Rechecking balance showed the CG to be right on the mark as recommended in the instructions.


    • Displacement: .46 in3 ( 7.53 cm3 )

    • Bore: .886 in ( 22.5 mm )

    • Stroke: .756 in ( 19.2 mm )

    • Practical: RPM 1,900 to 16,000

    • Weight Ex. Muffler: 13.4 oz ( 378 g )

    • Power: 1.66 hp at 16 000 rpm

    • Shaft Size: M 7x1

    • Muffler included


    • true ABC construction

    • dual ball bearing

    • schnuerle porting

    • one piece balanced hardened chrome steel crankshaft

    • aviation grade aluminum alloy throughout


    • Standard Airplane

    • All Purpose

    • Sport

    • Recreation

    Aviastar .46 2-Stroke Glow Engine

    Sig Rascal 40 - The EngineModern design combined with state of the art computer-driven machinery and superior metallurgy to create the finest 2 stroke model airplane engines.

    For instance, the connecting rods use the same aluminum alloy as found in some full size aircraft engines. Crankshafts are one piece hardened Cr steel. A specially developed "KK" bronze alloy is used for the conrod bushing which allows it to withstand high RPMs. Cylinders are made of a special heat treated Cr steel alloy to insure a hard and true cylinder that will not distort at high temperatures. Piston rings are made of the same steel alloy as found in some racing motorcycles. The .46 in3 is true ABC construction. This engine contains high quality dual ball bearings.

    Sig Rascal 40 - The Engine
    Of course, the carburetors are of a twin needle design for the best balance between power and fuel consumption. O-rings are used at all critical points to eliminate any possible air leakage. There's no lapse of power throughout the transition, making this a popular choice for aerobatic flying.

    Sig recommends 10% Nitromethane Champion Glow Engine Fuel with castor blend. Power ratings listed were obtained with FAI fuel (0% nitro) on a hot summer day with 85% relative humidity.

    Sig Rascal 40 - The Engine Sig Rascal 40 - The Engine

    Normally when we do reviews we will get the chance to pick the engines that we want to use for that review. In this case Sig requested that we use the Aviastar .46 for reviewing the Rascal. Sig is the North American distributor for the Aviastar engines and wanted to help get the word out about them. I?ll be honest in the fact that I had not heard about these engines before I did this review, but I was definitely open to taking a look at it.

    Opening up the box for the Aviastar revealed that the engine is well packaged against shipping damage. Unpacking the box will give you the engine, the muffler, the carburetor, the mounting bolts for the muffler and the Allen wrenches needed to assemble the engine. I was a little disappointed that the engine did not ship with a glow plug. I used an OS A3 plug in this engine and is seems to be a great fit for it.

    I chose to break the engine in while mounted on the plane. In hindsight I will admit that this may not have been the best decision as I blew out 2 glow plugs during the break-in runs. I attribute this to the fact that the engine was inverted for the break-in. I would highly recommend that for this plane/engine combination the engine be broken-in on a test stand and not in the plane itself. I followed the procedure in the manual for breaking in the engine. I ran a total of 3 tanks of fuel through the plane for the break in. I used a Master Airscrew 11x6 propeller for both the break-in and for flying the plane. It seemed to be a good fit for both. On the third tank of fuel during the break-in I pulled out the tachometer to see what the engine was running at. While the engine was still running rich enough for a little smoke in exhaust the engine would tach 13,400 rpm at full throttle. This was definitely a good sign for future performance.

    Once at the field I was pretty excited to see what this engine was going to do. During my time at the field I never needed my electric starter to get this engine running. Opening the throttle and covering the exhaust outlet while flipping over the engine primed in 2-3 flips of the prop. Once primed the engine started right up using a stick with no problems at all. After taxiing out to the field I pointed the Rascal down the runway and added in throttle. The tail of the Rascal lifted up at about 1/3 throttle and the plane lifted off the runway at ½ throttle. Now when I say it lifted off I don?t mean that it struggled into the air. I mean that it lifted off with authority and had plenty of power to get it off the ground. During the first flight I was able to fly most of the flight at about ½ throttle and it was not lacking for power. When it came time to open up the engine it had plenty of power to haul the Rascal around the sky and through maneuvers.

    These days it has become cliché to say that an engine is a ?powerhouse?, and I don?t want to sound like the rest out there. So I will just say that this engine definitely is not lacking for power. I was very pleased with the way it performed on this plane and I am glad that I found this brand of engines. They are definitely worth a look. Great power, reliability, and a reasonable price should make a lot of pilots very happy. I definitely recommend that pilots check out this line of engines.

    Sig Rascal 40 - Photo Shoot Sig Rascal 40 - Photo Shoot Sig Rascal 40 - Photo Shoot
    Sig Rascal 40 - Photo Shoot Sig Rascal 40 - Photo Shoot Sig Rascal 40 - Photo Shoot
    Sig Rascal 40 - Photo Shoot Sig Rascal 40 - Photo Shoot Sig Rascal 40 - Photo Shoot

    Sig Rascal 40 - Flight Report Sig Rascal 40 - Flight Report Sig Rascal 40 - Flight Report
    Sig Rascal 40 - Flight Report Sig Rascal 40 - Flight Report Sig Rascal 40 - Flight Report

    With one of the wettest years in Oklahoma ever, finding a day to fly the Rascal became a real challenge. It seemed that every time I tried to coordinate flying with my video guy mother nature stepped in and dumped rain on us. We finally bit the bullet and went out on a day that was less than perfect because of overcast skies. But the radar showed that the rain wasn?t near us and the wind was almost non-existent so we gave it a try. In fact, when I got to the field the wind was just a slight breeze and straight down the runway. I had already run 3 tanks of fuel through the engine when I was breaking it in at home so I was pretty sure that the engine tuning was pretty close when I arrived at the field.

    After arriving at the field I unloaded and set everything up. I had some time before my video guy showed up, so I decided to take the Rascal up and trim her out so I would be all set up when we were ready to shoot video. I started her up and taxied out to the runway. After a quick check of the controls I added in throttle and started off down the runway. As I picked up the speed the plane started swerving back and forth on the runway, so instead of trying to force a bad takeoff with an un-trimmed plane I decided that the better part of valor would be to cut the throttle and let it run off into the grass. I chopped the throttle and let the plane taxi into the grass next to the runway. When the wheels rolled off of the asphalt into the grass the landing gear collapsed underneath the plane. I must admit that I was truly disappointed that this happened as the rest of the Rascal?s construction had been top notch. To see the landing gear so easily damaged really was a let down. Back in the pits I took a look at the damage and it was immediately apparent what happened. The landing gear block only had one small spot of epoxy holding it in, which pulled loose as soon as the landing gear touched the grass. Please see below for a further discussion of what happened. I didn?t want to lose the day since it was so difficult getting out to the field to fly, so I made some quick field repairs on the plane so that we could continue on with flying, shooting stills, and shooting video of the Rascal.

    With the repairs completed I fired the Rascal back up and taxied out to the runway. A quick check of the controls and I applied the power. The first thing I noticed was that the Aviastar engine really pulled the plane up to speed quickly. At about 1/3 throttle the tail lifted up and at ½ throttle the place lifted off the ground. At this throttle setting I had plenty of power to pull the plane up and bank into the pattern at our field. Leveling out the Rascal I checked to see what she needed in trim adjustments. The only adjustments I needed to make were 1 click of up elevator and 2 clicks of left aileron. The Rascal was now able to fly ?hands free? at ½ throttle across the field so it was time to see what she could do.

    Up to now I had been flying at about half throttle, so the first thing I wanted to see was what it would do at full throttle. Opening up was an eye opener as this plane would really step out and ?move?. The Aviastar 46 and 11x7 prop really got the Rascal going quite well. I was really surprised that she would fly that fast as the shape of the Rascal can be a bit misleading, but it was a nice surprise to see indeed. Next I wanted to see what she was capable of so I started to do some basic aerobatics. First up was the roll. The first roll I made dropped from a level line more than I expected. On the next roll attempt I added in some up elevator on the second half of the roll and it corrected the dropping of the plane in the maneuver. On hindsight I could have added in some more aileron throw and made the roll quicker too, but the standard control throws are quite enough. Next up was a loop. I pulled up into a large loop and the Rascal tracked straight as an arrow through the entire loop. Seeing a plane do such large straight loops really is a thing of beauty, and the Rascal does them quite well. I took her up to a couple of mistakes altitude to see how a stall looked. I chopped the power and waited for the stall, which was a straight dropping of the nose when it stalled. Definitely very docile handling characteristics when it stalls. So with the basics down I wanted to play a little bit with it. With the long fuselage and relatively small rudder I didn?t expect much out of a stall turn, but once again this plane surprised me. Pulling vertical I lowered the throttle and added in rudder and was rewarded with the Rascal turning around and tracking into the down leg of a stall turn. After seeing some rudder authority in a stall turn I decided to see just how much there actually was. Lining up down the field I rolled into a Knife Edge flight and added in rudder. WOW!! Not only did the Rascal hold a Knife Edge it actually started climbing in the maneuver. With the playing done it was time to bring her home, so I entered into the landing pattern. Turning on the final leg of the pattern and lining up with the runway I added in a little throttle to adjust to the runway. The Rascal tracked like it was on a wire as it came in for the landing. With the wings level it touched down on the mains and rolled out nicely.

    All in all it was a very enjoyable flight, and I will be the first to admit that I was really surprised with the way she flew. I guess that goes to show you that you can?t always judge a book by its cover!!

    Sig Rascal 40 - Flight Report
    Sig Rascal 40 - Flight Report
    Sig Rascal 40 - Flight Report
    Sig Rascal 40 - Flight Report
    Sig Rascal 40 - Flight Report
    Sig Rascal 40 - Flight Report
    Sig Rascal 40 - Flight Report
    Sig Rascal 40 - Flight Report
    Sig Rascal 40 - Flight Report Sig Rascal 40 - Flight Report Sig Rascal 40 - Flight Report
    Sig Rascal 40 - Flight Report Sig Rascal 40 - Flight Report Sig Rascal 40 - Flight Report

    Landing Gear Repair

    Sig Rascal 40 - Landing Gear Repair Sig Rascal 40 - Landing Gear Repair Sig Rascal 40 - Landing Gear Repair

    NOTE: As you view these pictures please ignore the small holes and thread marks in the wood. As part of the repairs I did at the field I placed some small screws to hold the landing gear in place so that we could finish shooting video. The screw holes in no way contributed to the LG block pulling.

    As you can see in the pictures here, the landing gear mounting block pulled out of the fuselage cleanly. Looking at the block itself you can see that only a small amount of wood pulled out with the block. This shows that there was only one spot where epoxy was placed when the mounting block was installed in the plane. As you can see in the pictures there was no epoxy on the side of the block at all .

    Sig Rascal 40 - Landing Gear Repair Sig Rascal 40 - Landing Gear Repair Sig Rascal 40 - Landing Gear Repair

    Since the block pulled out so cleanly the block was a very tight fit back into the fuselage. Since all of the bracing in the fuselage was still intact I didn?t think that I needed to reinforce the block any as I made this repair. I used 30-minute epoxy to glue the block back into the fuselage. Once the epoxy had cured I repaired the covering by putting a new piece of covering over the area that pulled loose. With the repairs complete and the landing gear mounted back in place I gave the gear some pretty good tugs to see how secure the gear where. I was able to pick the entire fuselage up by the gear and rock it back and forth with no signs of the block coming back out again.

    Sig Rascal 40 - Landing Gear Repair

    Considering the quality of the build on the rest of the plane I have to think that this was an isolated incident in the plane that I received. Although that shouldn?t stop any user from double-checking their plane while assembling it. I would recommend giving the gear a pretty good pull with your hands to see if it is tight. You could also use thin CA and wick some into the tri-stock used to brace the landing gear inside of the fuselage. This would help secure the gear in place for your plane.

    Sig Rascal 40
    Flight Video
    Small File (6.6 MB)

    Sig Rascal 40
    Flight Video
    Large File (17.5 MB)

    Overall I would have to say that I was very pleasantly surprised with the Rascal. When I first looked at the Rascal the high-wing design gave the impression of a ?trainer like? plane so my expectations were along those lines. The Rascal is definitely capable of a lot more than just basic flight. It can turn loose and perform aerobatic maneuvers with ease. Yet when needed it can slow down and give slow and easy flight. It?s really the best of both worlds, making it a great value. After spending some time assembling and flying the Rascal I have a lot of respect for this unassuming plane.

    The Aviastar 46 engine is quite a find. It starts easily and is very simple to tune properly for a great running engine. I am a bit ashamed to admit that I had never heard of these engines before doing this review, but after my time flying the .46 I can say that I will have at least a couple Aviastar engines in my stable from now on. It?s a great performing powerhouse that will do a great job on the nose of any bird in your fleet.

    The construction of the Rascal is very high quality. I say this even with the problem I had with the landing gear block pulling out. When taking into consideration the quality of the rest of the plane I have to believe that this was an isolated incident and not a problem with all Rascals on the market. If a pilot takes a few minutes to do the precautions I have mentioned in my flight report they should have no problems at all with the landing gear block if it is loose on their model.

    I would say that Sig has a real winning combination with the Rascal and the Aviastar engine. Together they will give any pilot, from beginner to expert, a great flying combination that will surely bring a smile to their face. I want to close with a small confession. The more time I spent with the Rascal the more the looks really grew on me. It has a look that is both familiar and different at the same time. It's quite a plane indeed.

    Sig Rascal 40 ARF

    SIG Manufacturing Co., Inc.
    P.O. Box 520
    401-7 South Front Street
    Montezuma, IA 50171-0520
    Phone: 1-800-247-5008
    Website: http://www.sigmfg.com

    Airtronics Inc.
    1185 Stanford Court
    Anaheim, CA 92805
    Phone: (714)978-1895
    Website: http://www.airtronics.net/
    Product: Airtronics
    Quasar 6 Channel Radio

    Master Airscrew Propellers
    Windsor Propeller Co., Inc.
    P.O. Box 250
    Rancho Cordova, CA 95741-0250
    Website: http://www.masterairscrew.com/

    Product used: Sport 11x6 propeller

    Zap Adhesives
    Frank Tiano Enterprises
    3607 Ventura Drive E.
    Lakeland, Florida 33811
    Phone: (863)607-6611
    Website: http://www.franktiano.com
    Products Used: Thin & Thick CA, 5-minute epoxy, Z-42 Thread Locker

    Micro Fasteners
    24 Cokesbury Rd Suite 2
    Lebanon, NJ 08833
    Phone: (800) 892-6917 or (908) 236-8120
    Fax: (908) 236-8721
    Website: http://www.microfasteners.com

    DU-BRO Products, Inc
    P.O. Box 815
    480 Bonner Rd.
    Wauconda, IL 60084
    Toll-Free: 1-800-848-9411
    Website: http://www.dubro.com
    Product used: Switch & Charging jack mount.

    Comments on RCU Review: Sig Rascal 40 ARF

    Posted by: SigMan on 09/04/2011
    wow, i wish sig wouldnt have went out of busniss.
    Page: 1
    The comments, observations and conclusions made in this review are solely with respect to the particular item the editor reviewed and may not apply generally to similar products by the manufacturer. We cannot be responsible for any manufacturer defects in workmanship or other deficiencies in products like the one featured in the review.

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