ME-262 (better known as the ME-262) was the worlds first operational
turbo jet fighter. It was commissioned during World War II and
first saw action in 1944 as a multi role aircraft for the Luftwaffe.
While the Me 262 had a negligible impact on the course of the
war, its design had a strong influence on postwar aircraft development.
has recreated the lines of this historic aircraft in the form
of an Electric Ducted Fan (EDF) model. The GWS-262 is comprised
of EPS foam with a plastic canopy and nosecone. The Full kit comes
with two EDF-64 fan units ready to install, plastic nosecone,
plastic canopy, landing gear and all of the necessary hardware
to complete the model minus electronics.
kit we are reviewing is bare frame white and will need to be painted.
There is an optional green painted kit available, however I wanted
to be able to choose my scheme. It adds a little bit of time,
but I feel it will be worth it in the end. My very first aircraft
was a GWS Beaver, so I am looking forward to see how the company
has progressed with it's R&D.
Span: 41.34" Overall Length: 33.6" Flying Weight: 24-27 oz (27.5 oz) Motor Size: GWS-2028/KV3900
EDF-64 ESC: GWS 25a speed controllers Wing Loading: 13.5 - 15.3
oz/sq.ft Center of Gravity: 3.1" (80mm) behind leading
edge of wing Servos: GWS PICO STD (4) Battery: 11.1V lipoly (3S Thunderpower 2100)
unpacking the contents, I could instantly see that GWS has come
a long way since I built my last GWS kit. The GWS-262 didn't have
the mold divots of the past and panel lines have even been added
for additional realism. A few smaller changes have been made to
increase the parts fit and builders effort, but they are quite
manual is better than past prints and include more step by step
photos and very clear instructions. I only found one gotcha that
is crucial to get ahead of to avoid a mistake. There is no text
on it and only one photo. Make sure if you are building this kit
do not miss this.
parts bags are well organized and can be separated in accordance
to the steps in the manual. This way the builder doesn't have
parts that he or she is sifting through to find what is needed
at that particular time. GWS provides contact cement in every
kit. I find that most often, this is the best glue to use. There
is a method to using this glue that is detailed below.
aircraft's wings come in two halves that must be joined together.
Prior to that however there are Carbon Fiber reinforcements that
are used to strengthen them. I am told that the original support
rods were fiberglass, however GWS has upgraded those to CF for
additional strength and weight savings. One of the nice things
in the design is how the parts that are to be joined are tabbed.
This makes assembly virtually foolproof.
usual GWS fashion the front wing is held on by a two pin plate
and the rear is secured with two bolts that pass through wing
and up into bolts glued into the fuselage. The fit is flawless
and everything lines up perfectly. It is only a matter of gluing
these support parts into their respective slots as indicated in
glue is basically a contact cement and works extremely well if
used properly. With this glue, the proper method is to apply it
to both surfaces to be joined. Temporarily joining the two halves
to distribute the glue properly and then pull them apart and allow
the glue to tack up. This usually only takes a couple of minutes
depending on the room conditions. After the elapsed time, simple
press the parts back together and allow it to setup the rest of
the way. When following this procedure, it is rare that the parts
have to be held together manually. The bond is usually immediate
and can support themselves. It is a good idea however, to tape
the halves together as a precaution as seen above with the fuse.
kit includes paper hinges that have been a staple in GWS kits
for years. They do not work well with CA, however used with the
supplied glue it will pull the foam out before the hinge lets
loose. I like to install one side first (usually the control surface)
allowing the glue to setup and then install the other side.
control horns are attached to the control surfaces. There are
molded recesses in the foam to place the horns. Here I prefer
to rough up the surface of the horn and use foam safe CA. It seems
to flow a bit better into the recess than the GWS glue. By all
means you can use the provided glue, however this is my preference.
those scissors out as the canopy and nosecone must be trimmed
to fit. The cut lines are vacuum formed into the plastic and very
easy to follow. It is a good idea to rough cut them out first
and then perform a final trim.
nosecone pieces need to be assembled and are a mix of plywood,
foam and plastic. The method of attachment is really ingenious
in that the nosecone assembly slides and twists onto a mating
plywood support using three screws. The nosecone is removed to
access the battery compartment. Really slick.
is a step I almost missed and I think should be better documented
in the manual. While the nosecone is a pretty tight fit onto the
three screws, there is a spring latch that has to be installed
prior to mating the nosecone pieces together. This provides a
lock mechanism once the nosecone is installed. Check the above
photo for a close up of this step.
gun ports are to be drilled out and are intended to provide cooling
to the battery. I have my doubts about this as the air must travel
90 degrees from the intake and then another 90 degrees into the
battery compartment. With the cooler weather, this may not present
a problem, however in the summer months of 100 degrees, extra
cooling may be necessary. This is something to be aware of.
my kit is bare white foam, it needs to be painted. A little forethought
has to be implemented prior to applying paint. Like painting the
cockpit floor and nacelle ducts if desired and then masking off
the canopy to highlight the frame. There are plenty of schemes
to be had on the web and google
will provide a plethora of results. This model was painted using
Tamiya spray paint in Violet Gray and Haze Gray. It is hard to
get too detailed with rattle cans, but they do the job well enough.
The panel lines are highlighted with a black fine tip sharpie
for added detail. And then decorated using the supplied decals.
power system I am using is that which GWS recommends. The included
fans are being outfitted with the 3900kv GWS inrunners and powered
by two GWS 25a speed controllers. Many questions have been asked
whether one controller can power both fans. While I have heard
success stories, I advise against it. One controller often can
not spin both motors consistently and is an avoidable headache.
the Speed Controllers can be programmed via stick inputs, GWS
has a programming card available to simplify the process. It
literally took seconds to program the controllers. Really the
only change was to tell them the battery is a lithium as the
default settings work well.
controllers were installed on the wing using double sided tape
and the wires managed using some of the left over plastic parts
in the kit and tye-wraps. Due to the cooling concern, this is
another area to be conscious of. If the battery is getting hot,
check the controllers as well. If there isn't enough airflow
to cool the battery, it is a safe bet, the speed controllers
aren't getting any either.
pico servos are installed in their respective slots and the
control rods are installed using a quick link at one side (servo
side) and a retaining clip and L bend at the control horn side.
The only place where extensions are needed is on the wings.
up the motors on a fully charged 3S 2100 pack showed 20 amps
and around 220 watts. Not quite 1:1, but plenty of juice to
pull the plane around. It slide around quite briskly on the
field is very nice and often kept short, however it is less than
ideal for smaller wheels to transverse on smoothly. Much less
an EDF that needs to flow smoothly in order to get on step and
airborne. So I opted to leave off the gear and land on the nacelles.
I had concerns with this, however had a conversation with another
262 owner who suggested that I do as he did and glass the underside
of the nacelles. So I did just that with lightweight fiberglass
cloth ( cut to 2" strips) and 30 minute epoxy thinned with
tried to rise off the grass but without success. The plane just
didn't have enough thrust to travel more than a few inches before
getting hung up in the grass. A fellow club member and friend
hand launched for me and the 262 was airborne. In the first circuit
around the field, I noticed it wanted to climb so a handful of
clicks of down elevator was added in for hands off flight.
throttle flight is all that is really needed to comfortably cruise
around. This model is not a speed demon on 3S, but it gets along
very well. Climb outs where easy at three quarters throttle and
what I found interesting is that there seems to be no difference
in speed between three quarter throttle and full throttle. However,
the fans do seem to resonate loudly at full throttle. I don't
know if it is an unbalanced fan or if it is just normal resonance.
was impressed at the gentleness of the way this plane fly's and
it's scale looks in the air. It drew many comments from the other
club members. Tight figure eights are easily accomplished and
there is no sign of tip stalling at slow speeds. Rolls are less
than axial, but accomplishable coordinating rudder. This is not
surprising as it is basically swinging those large nacelles around
and all that weight is concentrated there.
flew for about 8 minutes on the one 2100mah pack and setup for
a few approaches with most as power off approaches.The 262 has
a very forgiving glide path and didn't seem eager to come down
in a hurry. The 262 set down nice and easy and slide for about
7 feet before coming to a stop. I had several flights after the
initial and the glassed underside of the nacelles are holding
up fine. The batteries were barely warm in the 60 degree weather,
but again, it will need to be monitored in summer. And to my amazement,
the 2.1ah packs only took 1600 mah back in. That tells me that
I am not even pushing the system with throttle management. It
also opens up the possibility of going to a 4 cell setup. I plan
on testing that very soon.
has come along way in performance and design since my early experience
with their kits. The plane looks great both on the ground and
in the air. The flight characteristics are stable and while it
wont break any speed records, it is fast enough and comfortable
enough to fly in a baseball field and provide enjoyment for pilots
and spectators alike.
this plane for beginners? No. But if a pilot is comfortable with
full house controls and sets it up to the manuals specifications,
it will be no problem. GWS did a wonderful job with this plane
and if you are in the market for an EDF that provides solid performance
and the thrill of ducted fans, take a second look at the GWS-262.
Wing System U.S.A. Inc.
138 South Brent Circle, City of Industry, CA 91789-3050
The comments, observations and conclusions made in this review are solely with respect to the particular item the editor reviewed and may not apply generally to similar products by the manufacturer. We cannot be responsible for any manufacturer defects in workmanship or other deficiencies in products like the one featured in the review.