RCU Review: Extreme Flight Extra 300 - 50CC


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    Contributed by: Jake Ruddy | Published: April 2008 | Views: 55783 | email icon Email this Article | PDFpdf icon
    Extrem Flight 50cc Extra300

    Review by: Jake Ruddy


    Extreme Flight

    3600 North Pkwy Suite 101
    Atlanta/Cumming. GA 30040
    Phone: (770) 887-1794
    www.extremeflightrc.com



    Acrobatic Low Bandwidth Video
    CLICK HERE to Watch


    Acrobatic High Bandwidth Video
    CLICK HERE to Watch


    3D Low Bandwidth Video
    CLICK HERE to Watch


    3D High Bandwidth Video
    CLICK HERE to Watch


    Complete Hardware Pack
    Well Built
    Wing, Canopy, Stab Bags
    Light weight Pilot and Dash

    Overall Looks


    Whether you are an IMACer, 3Der, or Sunday Flyer, this plane just shines.

    I was lucky enough to get my hands on the Prototype of this plane for 3 mins last October and it left me begging for more stick time. So when Chris asked if I would do a full review on this plane I really didn't have to think twice.

    Extreme Flight took the market by storm a few years ago with their 68" Yak and then things got pretty quiet for awhile until last year when their all new 88" Yak came out. The Yak flew great with a 50-60cc engine but was the size of many 33%ers.

    This new Extra is no different, it's large, has huge control surfaces, and a ton of wing area making it an all around performer.

    Let's get to it!




    Kit Name: 50cc Extra 300
    Price: $649.95 retail price
    Wingspan: 88.25in
    Overall Length : 86 in (rudder to spinner tip)
    Wing Area: 1450 sq in
    Tested Weight : Pounds
    Motor Size :  50cc - 60cc
    Radio: 8 Channels
    Servos: 2 x aileron servos (min 180 in./oz. Torque,
    Digital, Metal geared), 1 x rudder servo (min 180 in./oz. Torque,
    Digital, Metal geared), 2 x elevator servos (min 180 in./oz. Torque,
    Digital, Metal geared), 1 x throttle servo (Fast / Reliable), 1 x choke servo (Fast / Reliable) optional

    As Tested:

    Brillelli 366GT (60cc)
    KS 1060 Pipe
    5 x Hitec 5955TG
    A123 2300 Receiver pack
    1 cell 1500 Lipo for ignition
    JR 9030 2.4 GHZ + R921
    Smart-Fly PowerExpander Sport Plus
    Dave Brown 4" Extra Spinner

     

    • Allen wrenches US and Metric
    • Dremel cutting disc and sanding drum tool
    • Electric drill and selection of bits
    • Hobby heat gun
    • Hobby iron and covering sock
    • Monocoat Trim Solvent
    • Masking tape
    • Modeling knife
    • Needle nose pliers or crimping tool
    • Paper towels
    • Pen, pencil or felt tipped marker
    • Phillips screwdriver
    • Rubbing alcohol
    • Ruler and tape measure
    • Scissors
    • Wire Cutters
    • 15-30 Minute epoxy
    • Blue Loctite
    • Epoxy mixing cups, mixing sticks, brushes
    • CA kicker (optional)
    • Thin and Medium CA

    3 Boxes
    Cowl box
    Cowl box
    Cowl, wheel pants, access.
    Wing box
    Wings
    Fuse box
    Unpacking
    Pilot, dash, and floor
    Stabs
    Fuse pic
    Fuse pic


    The boxes arrive in good shape on the outside so I really wasn't worried too much about any damage. Usually ARFs of this size are double boxed which generally prevents any damage.

    The Extra arrived in 3 separate boxes, 1 for the wings, 1 for the cowl, and one for the fuse and everything else. The cardboard was very thick and made sure nothing was going to get damaged.

    Inside of the outer boxes was a wood skeleton that made sure there was no way anything was going to get damaged. The cowl box had a protective layering completely around it and was nice also nicely wrapped in padding.

    The packing job overall is very well thought out and you get the feeling of quality right away.

    Prepare
    Sane and clean
    Paint

    This plane comes with an off yellow composite control horns. I decided to spend a little extra time time prep and paint the horns to match the plane. A very unnecessary process, but I was happy with the final product.

    I first sanded all of the horns and plates, then I used some rubbing alcohol to clean them off and make sure there was no dust left on them.

    I then found some paint that was close and gave them several coats over the course of a few hours. Once both sides were finished I decided to add a little bit of clear coat to help protect them.

    The final product was a pretty close match to the silver strip on this color scheme.

    Elevator Assembly

    Remove covering over slots
    Remove covering over slots
    r Test fit control horn
    Coat with 30 min epoxy
    Install control horn
    Complete

    The control horns are pretty easy to install, the longest part is when the epoxy is drying.

    First you need to remove the covering that covers the slots where the control horn will attach. You can trace the square mounting plate so that no wood will be exposed and you will have maximum bonding surface.

    Then you need to trial fit the control horn to make sure everything fits and lines up. Everything was fine on this model so I moved to mixing up some 30 min epoxy. The instructions suggest you use some milled fiberglass, you can pick some up at any hobby shop or just finely cut some spare cloth you have. I used a toothpick to make sure I coated the entire bonding surface.

    Install the control horn, wipe away any excess epoxy with some rubbing alcohol and let dry for 30 mins.

     

    * Note - Before installing the horns you should sand the part that goes inside the slots and use some rubbing alcohol on them to make sure they are clean. You can't tell in my pics but I did rough them up again before they went in.

     

    Elevator Servos

    Quick iron
    Remove covering
    Thin CA mount
    5min Epoxy + rubbing alcohol
    Exhaust proof
    Router servo lead
    Mount servo
    Mount servo
    Mount servo
    Attach 1.5" Arm
    Complete

    Elevator servos are mounted in the stab which allows you to easily keep the stabs removable should you choose.

    Give the stab a quick once over with the iron to make sure all the covering is securely attached. You can then take a #11 blade or a soldering iron and remove the covering for the elevator servo arm. Once you have it opened up you should take some thin CA and go over the servo mounting plate and the anti-rotation pin.

    Since some exhaust residue will ended up on the exposed wood and slowly cause it to become weak it is a good idea to fuel proof the exposed wood. The easiest way to do this is to take a little 5min epoxy and add a drop or 2 of rubbing alcohol. Take a small brush and brush the mixture over all of the exposed wood.

    Now you can route your servo lead and use 4 screws to hold the servo in place. I pre drilled these with a 1/16" bit and then thin CA's the holes to make sure the servo was securely mounted.

    You can now take the supplied titanium linkage, as well as the ball joins and trial fit everything real quick. After you have hinged, you can finalize this setup. You will have to screw the ball links all the way in so that you can use the top control arm holes to maximize resolution (don't worry can still have 50+ degree throws).


    Hinging Elevators

    Gather tools needed
    Painters tape
    Oil hinges
    Gorilla glue
    One side done
    Completed

    This plane uses standard robart style hinges on all surfaces.

    You have a couple options as far as glue and way of installing them, I will share the way I do it and you can choose to use that method or one you are more comfortable with.

    First I trial fit everything and clean all of the hinge holes. If there is some loose wood in the hinge holes you will not get a strong bond, so take a knife and clean them out.

    Next I like to cover the hinge holes with blue painters tape to prevent any glue from sticking to the surface. Once you have them all covered I take a #11 blade and slide the tape in half so it is easier to remove later. Finally I remove the tape covering the hinge hole.

    I then put a very tiny drop of 3-in-1 oil directly on the hinge point itself to prevent any glue sticking to it. I choose to use oil because it is quick and simple, if you use this method make sure you don't get any on the hinge itself.

    I then use Gorilla Glue and a toothpick with just enough Gorilla Glue to coat the entire hinge point hole. Usually this is as much Gorilla Glue on 1 toothpick and you can hold without it dripping off. On occasion I will add a tad more for good measure.

    Then insert the hinge so it is centered and move it back and forth so it is aligned properly and moves freely.

    After this I put painters tape on the other side and repeat this process joining the surfaces. You want them pretty close to each other but leave a small gap so you can get full deflection.

    After the hinging is done it is important to remove the foaming Gorilla Glue every 10-15 minutes for the for 40 mins. After that point almost nothing will expand out of the holes. You can leave it sit for at least 2 hrs before you do anything.

    It takes overnight for the Gorilla Glue to be at it's strongest but after 2 hrs you can remove the painters tape if you like.

    Wing Assembly

    Install control horns
    Control horns complete
    Tools needed
    Painters tape
    Clean holes
    Oil hinge point
    Gorilla glue
    One side complete
    Completed
    Gather tools
    Cut servo hole
    Completed
    Gorilla glue
    One side complete
    Mount servo
    Hardware
    One side complete
    Completed

     

    Before you hinge the ailerons you are going to have to follow the same steps above to install the control horn. All surfaces follow the same steps for the control horn and the hinging.

    Once you have the control horn attached you can mount the servo. The servo will need a 12: extension attached and secured before mounting the servo. Pre drill your servo mount holes with a 1/16" drill bit and harden with thin CA. After the CA has cured mount the servo and electronically center the servo. You will want the arm 90 degrees to the servo.

    You can now cover all of the hinge point holes on both the wing and aileron with painters tape. Be sure to remember to cut the tape in half. This allows for easier removal and makes hinging that much easier.

    After you have cleaned out all of the holes you can take some oil and put it on the hinge point itself. Then get some Gorilla Glue and cover the surface of the hinge points. Insert your hinges, clean up every 10 mins and let cure.

    Within about 2 hrs you can generally remove the painters tape.

    After everything has cured you can use the supplied ball links and hardware to connect the linkage to the servo and aileron. Make sure you servo is electronically centered, the arm is 90 to the servo, and the aileron is at neutral.

    You can use a programmer (Hitec) or sub trim if you cant quite get the arm 90 degrees, try and do it most mechanical though.

    Rudder Assembly

    Prep
    Control horns complete
    Prep
    Painters tape
    Painters tape
    Oil hinges
    Gorilla glue
    One side complete
    Completed
    Iron
    Remove covering
    Coveirng removed
    Harden servo mounting holes
    Mount servo
    Pull/pull hardware
    Attach ball link
    Crimp and CA
    One end complete
    Crimp and CA
    Completed

    The rudder has control horns much like every other surface, except it has one on each side. These control horns mount in the exact same way as the other surfaces.

    After the control horn is mounted you can get out your blue painters tape again and hinge the surface using the same techniques as above.

    After the Gorilla Glue has fully cured you can install your pull/pull system. All the hardware is supplied and you just need to assemble it. First make sure the covering is tight with an iron and then remove the covering with a blade or a soldering iron.

    Do one side at a time, you should loop through the pivot point, come back through the brass tube, and then do an extra loop back through the brass tube so the wire can't come off. I then crimp the brass tube and use some thin CA in ensure it is not coming loose at all.

    Repeat this process on the remaining 3 ends to complete your pull/pull system. Rememeber to make sure your servo is electronically centered and the end result should be a tight pull/pull system with no slack in the center and at both full deflections.

     

    * Note - Remember after a few flights the pull/pull cable will stretch, it will need to be tightened from time to time.

    Tail wheel Setup

    Line up tail wheel
    Harden pre drill holes
    Mount tail wheel

    The tail wheel has several options. Extreme Flight supplies the tail wheel assembly, but you need to supply the wheel.

    In my case I had a Pete Model tail wheel assembly already here and decided I would use that.

    I lined up the assembly so it was straight and then pre drilled some holes for the tail wheel bracket screws. I hardened them with some medium CA and before they fully cured, screwed in the mounting screws.

    Then I later attached a tiller bar to the bottom of the rudder and set up my springs. The springs don't have to be too tight, but they do have to effectively turn the tail wheel when rudder is applied. Best to do a couple tests before you trim the spring ends that are wrapped around the tail wheel and assembly.

    Main Gear / Cuffs / Wheel Pants

    Mounting plate cover
    Remove cover
    Mark gear plate holes
    Gear mounting plate marked
    Prepare plate cover
    Drill
    Trail fit
    Tighten gear
    Tighten gear
    Wheel cuffs
    Split rubber tubing
    CA
    Cuffs completed
    Cuffs completed
    Mark cuff mounting point
    Silicone marked line
    Tape and let dry overnight
    Axles
    Drill landing gear
    Axle mounting hole
    Axle mounted
    Drill landing gear
    Axle mounting hole
    Axle mounted
    Cut out axle
    Drill mounting holes
    Install blind nuts

    The main gear goes in pretty smoothly, the gear itself is pre drilled.

    Remove the landing gear plate to expose where the landing gear will mount to. Make sure you measure and center your gear on the gear plate.

    After you are happy with the positioning you can then take the drill and drill out the mounting holes. You will be drilling through wood and then through the aluminum angle brackets.

    Once you have all 4 done use the supplied 4mm bolts, lock nuts, and washer to attach the gear to the fuse. You should note that the gear covering plate will be attached at the same time. The 4mm bolts go through it, through the gear, into the fuse and are attached on the other side of the aluminum brackets with the lock nuts.

    After you have the gear on you can start making your landing gear fairings I used a clamp and clamped the black neoprene tubing to my table and then used a blade to slice the length of tubing to split it in half. You can then use some thin CA and glue the tubing to the top of the fairings. This will prevent them from wearing through the fuse covering.

    Once you have the fairings complete you need to use some clear silicone to mount them to the gear. The process is simple, just slide them in place, mark the end, pull them down and apply silicone to the line you marked. After that slide them in place and use some blue painters tape around the bottom of the fairing to hold it in place while it dries over night.

    The wheel pants require that you mount the wood square support to the wheel pant and then dremel out the side of the paint/wood so you can mount the wheel pant.

    The big step here is to sand the inside of the pant so when you use 30 min epoxy and a clamp the wood support with get a strong bond to the wheel pant.

    After the epoxy is dry, mount your wheels with axles of your choice, prop up your plane so it is level on the canopy deck. Hold your wheel pants to the gear and mark where the axle is when the wheel pant is parallel to the ground.

    Dremel out the wheel pant, drill the 4-40 holes, CA the blind nuts in place, and mount the wheel pant to the gear.

    * Note - use some blue loctite on the wheel pants, but do not use it on the lock nuts for the landing gear.

    Engine Installation

    Brillelli 366GT + KS1060
    Engine template
    USe punch to mark holes
    Drill holes
    Loctite
    Standoffs mounted
    Fender washers
    Seal Pipe area
    Cut out pipe tunnel
    Pipe tunnel cut out
    Test fit
    Test fit
    Fuel proof pipe tunnel
    Trial fit
    Trail fit
    Trial fit
    Mounted
    Mount ignition

     

    To mount the engine is pretty easy, Extreme Flight has already marked your thrust lines for you. All you need to do is match up your engine's thrust lines and center the engine.

    On Brillelli's site there is a template you can download and print. I happened to have the old engine back plate so I used that template and slight modified it for my use.

    Once the template is correct you simply tape it to the firewall. You need to make sure all thrust lines are lined up properly. When you are happy with the alignment take your drill and drill out the mounting holes.

    You will need standoffs that make the engine prop hub 6.25" from the firewall.

    In case I am using the Brillelli 366GT with a KS Pipe. You want to use an iron to make sure the covering is tight and then use a soldering iron to cut out the pipe tunnel covering.

    After you are happy with the covering that is removed you can trial fit things to see how they line up and test fit your pipe support. When all of this is done it is very important to fuel proof the entire tunnel and epoxy the pipe support into place.

    I needed to trim a corner off of the firewall brackets to make everything fit. Since I was going to fuel proof and strengthen the firewall this was not a big deal.

    It will take a couple attempts to get the flex header and pipe alignment just right, make sure the pipe does not touch the fuse and that you leave a little room for flexing.

    Lastly, mount your ignition unit.

     

    * Note - Make sure you use lots of blue loctite on the engine mounting bolts to ensure any vibration will not shake the engine loose.

    Cowl Mounting

    Mark holes
    Mark holes
    Drill
    Harden mounting tabs
    Epoxy blind nuts
    Mount cowl
    Complete
    Complete

    Mounting the cowl is pretty easy and doesn't take too long. The hardest part is actually cutting out the cowl so it fits over your engine and has enough cooling.

    The best way to get an idea of what you need to remove in order for the cowl to install over the engine is to get a piece of paper or cardboard, mark the center on the paper and the fuse, tape the piece of paper to the fuse lining up your center lines, and pull the paper out under the engine so you can trace the cylinder head and muffler.

    Once you have it traced on paper you can transfer that to the cowl and cut out your cowl. I recommend cutting the cowl holes a bit smaller than you measured, you can always make them larger later but can't make them smaller.

    After you have your cowl cut slide it over the engine and onto the fuse. Make sure you have everything in place and you are happy with the fit. Then take 4 pieces of painters tape and run the tape from the cowl mounting points back onto the fuse. Now take a sharpie or pen and mark on the tape where the holes should go.

    After all four are done you simply slide on the cowl, peel back the tape so the cowl is aligned the way you would like, and reattach the tape to the cowl and drill the holes on the tape.

    When your holes are drilled you can remove the cowl and install the blind nuts with some epoxy onto the cowl mounting tabs. Don't forget to harden the mounting tabs with some thin CA.

    Fuel System

    Supplied tank m
    Setup clunk
    Wire tie everything
    Trial fit
    Fuel "T"
    Vent line with "Trap"
    Vent line
    Vent line secured
    Fuel dot

    The fuel system is the same as any other gas setup. Extreme Flight provides a 16oz tank, I soon learned it wasn't enough for me and went up to a 24oz tank. I generally like to fly at least 20 mins, maybe 23 per flight.

    I prefer using a 2 line system with a fuel "T" inline with the carburetor line running out to a fuel dot. A 3 line system will work just as well, it's all personal choice.

    The big thing I always recommend is making a "trap" for the vent line. You want to look back the vent line so when you tilt the plane on it's nose you won't loose all of your gas.

    Throttle Servo

    Servo mount
    30 min epoxy in place
    Mounted
    Throttle linkage
    Linkage test
    Complete
    Complete
    30 min epoxy engine box top

    I used a DS 821 throttle servo that came with my 9303. I don't often buy smaller glow planes and this servo will work perfect for a throttle servo. I also went for a manual choke option. I happened to have a throttle servo mount left over from another plane, but you can built one pretty easy with 2 sides and 2 triangle pieces.

    On the Brillelli 366GT the throttle arm is close to the standoffs, if you come up on a angle a little bit you can easily clear the standoffs with your linkage. The trick is to mount the servo low inside the fuse.

    The 366GT comes standard with a CNC 'd throttle arm that is pre tapped for a 2-56 ball snap.

    After you have completely finished everything inside the front of the engine box you need to 30 min epoxy the lid in place. This step is NOT optional and adds a great deal of strength to the engine box.

    Canopy / Pilot / Dash

    Everything needed
    Cut plastic front
    Pre drill dash
    Assembly dash
    Pilot
    Pre drill visor
    Complete
    Pre drill pilot head
    Medium CA screws
    Completed
    Canopy floor
    Foam safe CA floor
    Mount dash
    Mount pilot
    Completed

    The dash and pilot for this plane are very nice looking, light, and complete with a canopy floor.

    First use some sharp sissors and cut out the plastic dash front. Pre drill the clear plastic front to make final assembly easier. You can now screw the dash together. I added a small piece of hardwood under the dash so after I glued it in place I could add a couple small screws from below to make sure it wasn't moving anywhere.

    The pilot requires that the helmet visor be cut out first. Once it was cut I pre drilled some holes where it would mount the helmet. I then pre drilled the pilot helmet and used some medium CA on the screws to make sure it didn't come loose down the road.

    Then you need to install the canopy floor, this is made of depron so you will want to use either epoxy or foam safe CA, I opt'd for CA. Install the floor and make sure you get a good strong bond on the entire floor since the pilot and dash will be mounted to it. The rear enclosure depron for the canopy goes in the inside of the canopy. I made a mistake and put it on the outside so the canopy wouldnt seat properly. Once I realized what I had done it was too late and I ruined the piece of depron.

    After your floor is in you can mount the pilot and dash in place. On the dash I used a piece of hardware to give it a larger mounting area. Both the dash and pilot I used foam safe CA to mount and I used several screws from the bottom to make sure they would stay in place.

    Final Touches

    Ignition cut off

    ght

    Smart-Fly faafe pin switch
    Smart-Fly fail-safe pin switch
    Smart-Fly fail-safe pin switch

    PowerExpander Sport Plus

     

    The PowerExpander Sport Plus is designed specifically for 5-cell NiCd/NiMH or 2-cell A123 battery packs.  It uses standard R/C plugs to connect the battery packs to the unit.  For this reason, it is recommended for planes with 40cc to 85cc gas engines.  It also has a built in BatShare, Ignition Cutoff and can be used with an optional failsafe switch.  For detailed information please see the user manual links above the picture.

     

     

    For 40cc to 85cc aircraft only

    • Uses 5-cell NiCd/NiMH or 2-cell A123 battery packs.
    • Buit-in BatShare for battery input protection
    • Filtered and regulated 5.0V power to receiver
    • Receivers can be end-loading or top-loading
    • Eight servo channels
    • LED indicators for servo and receiver power
    • Full RF filtering of all signals in and out of unit
    • Fully buffered signal line for each servo
    • Long servo lead line matching
    • Integrated Ignition Cutoff
    • Operates with optional Failsafe-switch
    • Light weight, 1.9 oz (54g)
    • Compact design, 2.6? x 3.5?

     

    Visit Smart-Fly's web site: www.smart-fly.com

     

      PowerExpander User Guide
      PowerExpander Sport Plus Cutoff User Guide
     

     

    As for batteries I choose an A123 pack with dual 20 gauge leads tied into the Smart-Fly unit for main power and a 1 cell 1550 Max Amps Lipo for the ignition. I mounted the Lipo over the fuel tank wrapped in foam and setup to be floating above the tank. It is velcroed in place to the vent "trap" so it doesn't see much vibration or abuse. It is also easy to remove to recharge. The A123 is mounted in the middle.

    * Note - If you choose to use a 1 cell lipo for an ignition MAKE SURE you remove it from the plane to charge, it's a small extra step for safety

    Finally we are at the last step, install the radio equipment, Smart-Fly sport plus, ignition kill, and fail-safe switch. All of this goes smoothly and depends on your desired CG. I was able to keep everything in stock locations.

    The CG for this plane is 6" from the lead edge of the wing as a starting point. I was about 6.5" and really liked it at that point.

     

    Throws:

    Low Rate

    • Ailerons - 20 degrees with 30-40% Expo
    • Elevator - 8-10 degrees with 18-20% Expo
    • Rudder - 20 degrees with 50% Expo

    High Rate

    • Ailerons - All you can get - about 55% with 65-70% Expo
    • Elevator - All you can get - about 50% with 60-65% Expo
    • Rudder - All you can get - about 55% with 80% Expo

    Photo Shoot


    I have less than a handful of flights on this plane so far. I really need to get the engine fine tuned and get the pipe setup so it's not so peaky. You can see during harriers and hovering breathing on the throttle really effects the plane.

    This aside the plane lets you feel very comfortable very quickly. I generally like to trim out a plane for a flight and then get to it. This Extra was trimmed within a few clicks and begging for some attention right away.

    First it tracks very well, almost makes straight lines easy. The rudder has some good authority so you can just breath on the stick to correct your lines.

    Point rolls, KE, and Hammer heads are very easy to execute and coupling is very minimal. The rudder has excellent authority which makes your Hammer heads very controllable.

    Slow rolls, rolling circles, and snaps continue to be nicely controllable. Snaps stop right when you release the sticks. If you over snap its your own fault.

    3D wise this Extra will shine with the rest of them. The ailerons are very effective and it really likes to Rolling Harrier. You can slow them right down and still feel in control.

    Hovering is uneventful, it will sit up just right once you get it locked in.

    Lastly, you have harriers, spins, and tumbles in general. This plane will take whatever you throw at it. Both Upright and Inverted Harriers are rock solid. You feel in control all of the time.

    I haven't done many tumbles with this Extra yet, but from what I have seen it handles them well. Flat spins work nicely because the rudder is so effective.

    Overall this is a great plane, whether you are after an IMAC plane or 3Der this plane will please you on all levels. This is definitely a hit!



    Acrobatic Low Bandwidth Video
    CLICK HERE to Watch


    Acrobatic High Bandwidth Video
    CLICK HERE to Watch


    3D Low Bandwidth Video
    CLICK HERE to Watch


    3D High Bandwidth Video
    CLICK HERE to Watch

    Strike a pose











    Firstly, I would like to thank Chris at Extreme Flight for sending me this plane for review. I had some experience with it prior to the review so I was excited to get my hands on one setup the way I like to see what it could do.

    Extreme Flight raised the bar with their over sized 50cc Yak last summer, but I think they have raised it a hair higher with this Extra. I love the way it flies, tracks, 3Ds, and just feels locked in all the time.

    I have a small amount of experience with the Yak as well, but I have to say this Extra needs to be experienced. I have been an Extra fan for awhile, but that aside I think this new Extra beats the Yak by a hair. I just love it.

     


    Extreme Flight

    3600 North Pkwy Suite 101
    Atlanta/Cumming. GA 30040
    Phone: (770) 887-1794
    www.extremeflightrc.com


    Brillelli Model Aircraft Engines

    34638 Plum Hill Lane
    Avon, MN 56310
    Phone: (320) 249-7420
    www.brillelli.com


    Hitec RCD

    12115 Paine St.
    Poway, CA 92064
    Phone: 858-748-6948
    Web site: www.hitecrcd.com



    Pete Model

    1872 Roland-Marcoux
    Saint-Hubert, Québec
    Canada, J3Z 1E3
    Phone: (450) 443-8677
    www.petemodel.com

    ZAP and Pacer Adhesives
    Distributed by Frank Tiano Ent.
    3607 Ventura Drive E.
    Lakeland, Florida 33811
    Phone 863-607-6611
    Web site: http://www.franktiano.com

     

    Graphics By:
    Bad Brad Graphics

    1558 Sylmar Road.
    Cedarburg, WI 53012
    Phone 262-377-3944
    Web site: http://www.badbradgraphics.com


    Comments on RCU Review: Extreme Flight Extra 300 - 50CC

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    The comments, observations and conclusions made in this review are solely with respect to the particular item the editor reviewed and may not apply generally to similar products by the manufacturer. We cannot be responsible for any manufacturer defects in workmanship or other deficiencies in products like the one featured in the review.

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