Review by: Marc Vigod
Window Media Player
U-CAN-DO-3D 46 VIDEOS
trim scheme & color
quality hardware package
Cowl & wheel pants
3D aerobatic performer
speed flying characteristics
as stable in gusty conditions
covered wing, fuselage, tail
tank, tubing, clunk
mount & bolts
painted fiberglass cowl
painted wheel pants
bolts, control horns, clevises.
Planes has certainly made its mark on the "3D" world
for the average flyer with their famous .60-size "U-CAN-DO-3D" model. Now, hot
off the heels of this, one of the most successful model aircraft
ever made, is its little brother, the
scaled down version of the UCANDO is designed
around the popular .32-.51 c. i. (5-8.5cc) 2-stroke
or .52-.70 c.i. (8.5-11.5cc) 4-stroke
engines. It also requires a minimum 6 standard servos and a 4-channel radio.
Since the UCD 46 is smaller, the overall final price tag
will also be lower with the use of the very popular
and relatively inexpensive 46-size displacement
The plane is priced to sell at a street price
is of built up balsa and ply and it is covered in 4
colors of MonoKote. The cowl & wheel pants are painted
fiberglass and the landing gear is made of aluminum. Great Planes outstanding
hardware is provided and includes a glass motor mount,
pushrods, engine bolts, wheels, fuel tank, control horns,
pushrods, clevises and a spinner.
a glance you can see that the tail is a bit different
when compared to its big brother. The
stab is placed up higher and the rudder is shaped a
bit different. I believe this was done to minimize some
of the coupling tendencies that the larger UCD has shown
in certain maneuvers. Great Planes has retained the covering
pattern but changed the colors. I personally like the
colors on the smaller UCD.
year I wrote a very detailed review of the .60 UCD in our very own RCU
Magazine. In that review, I covered in great detail
the entire construction process. In this review,
I will use details of that review and will make changes or
comments where there are differences. Overall, the
construction and assembly of both planes are virtually identical,
so a complete rewrite of the UCD 46 from scratch
would be unwarranted. I also reused a few
images where applicable. The manual shows a lot of
detail including many pictures. They are a perfect build
guide as they should be. I have included a link below
to view the assembly manual for this model.
have also included plenty of video in this review.
There's a "First Look" video of the plane out of the box and also
a "video weigh in" of all parts. At the end in the flight
performance section, I have 4 videos showing the UCD
46 in action. So without further delay let's get this
PLANES U-CAN-DO-3D VIDEO "FIRST LOOK"
Media Player Format
Video one shows
the parts as they come out of the box.
Video two shows each part being weighed.
Wingspan: 56.75 in. (1400mm)
Wing area: 904 sq. in.
Length: 58.5 in. (1485mm)
Flying Weight as tested: Total: 6 lbs.
5 oz. (dry)
Fuse is 4lbs 14 oz
Wing is 1lb 7 oz.
Wing loading: 16.1 oz./sq.
Wing Loading as tested: 16.1 oz./sq. ft.
Skill level: Intermediate-Advanced
Radio Used: Futaba
R148DP PCM Rx
CS-65 Servos for elevator, rudder, ailerons
S3010 servo for throttle
Channels Used: 5
total - elevator*, aileron*, rudder, throttle (*mixes
were used on elevator & aileron - see text)
Battery Used: 1 Cermark
6V 1600 Mah Nickel Metal Hydride
Motor Used: O.S.
FS-70 II Surpass
Prop Used: APC
Spinner Used: Tru-Turn
Required to Complete:
- 4-channel radio with 6 servos
c.i. (5-8.5cc) 2-stroke or .52-.70 c.i. (8.5-11.5cc) 4-stroke
glue, epoxy, loctite thread lock
The parts complete as they come out of the box!
Read the entire A+ instruction manual by clicking
As with any ARF or kit, the first step is to carefully unpack everything
. In the above image to the left you can see
all the pieces included and the accessories exactly
as they come out of the box. The fuselage, wing, tail
feathers & control surfaces are all built and covered.
The fiberglass cowl and wheel pants are painted to match
the MonoKote. The
instruction manual is extremely well done. Step
by step pictures show each phase of assembly and the written
instructions are very clear. The instruction manual
was a "hit" in my opinion on both the UCD 46 and the
.60-size UCD. Click
here to read the manual.
U-CAN-DO wing comes in one piece, so it's not necessary
to join them! So what's left to finish
up the wing you ask? Not very much so let's get
started. The first step is to glue in the provided
wing dowel. I cut the covering to reveal the
drilled hole in the leading edge of the wing and used
some Titebond wood glue to secure the dowel.
dowel on center leading edge of wing (click
images for full size)
CA Hinges used for the ailerons
Aileron Servo installation (Hobbico CS-65's)
manual is so good that it not only tells you to CA the hinges
but gives you the proper technique and details for doing
so. For those who are unfamiliar with CA hinges, this
is very helpful. Included in the kit is a large CA hinge
strip which is 2x9 inches that you need need to cut
into 3/4x1 inch [19 x 25mm] hinges from the strip. This is easily
done with an Exacto or sharp razor blade. Once the strips
are cut to size, the I followed the directions in the
instruction manual to glue the aileron hinges in place.
next step is to install the aileron servos, pushrods and
control horns. I cut the covering away from the servo
openings in the wing where the servos will be placed. I
CS-65 servos which are high torque and dual ball
bearings. At 6 volts they put out 92 oz./in. of torque
at a speed of .13 seconds. Perfect for this sort of
plane. String is threaded through the wing so you can
easily tie onto the servo wires and pull them through to the
wing's center section. Note the heat shrink tubing
over the servo extension.
used the provided 2-56 metal pushrods and clevises to hook
up the servos to the control horns. I did substitute the
control horns on the ailerons with Du-Bro
horns. I find them easy to use since only one hole
has to be drilled to install them. Typical control horns
are often difficult to get the screws to line up, especially
on tapered control surfaces.
complete the wing assembly, I glued the belly
pan on with some 5-minute epoxy. First I bolted the
wing onto the fuselage and then lined up the belly pan
with some glue on the bottom of it. When the glue had
set, I used some masking tape on each side of the
between the wing and the fuse so I could lay down a
filet of 5-minute epoxy to seal & strengthen the
bond. After smoothing the filet with the end of a Popsicle
stick I quickly removed the tape before the epoxy began
belly pan is glued to the bottom of wing with 5-minute
That completes the assembly of the wing so we are onto
of the fuselage on the U-CAN-DO-3D 46 differs in the
tail from its big brother. This plane is more typical
of ARF's in tail assembly. First, I fit the horizontal
stab into the fuse after cutting away the covering.
Using a piece of Kevlar string and a pin stuck in
the center of the fuse at the nose I aligned the
stab. Once aligned I marked its position and then
removed it and cut the covering off the stab with a
iron. I also trial fit the vertical fin, marked it
and removed the covering where marked. I then used
30-minute epoxy to secure both of them in place ensuring
that they were aligned while the glue cured.
CA hinges are used to hinge the elevators and the
same process as the ailerons is used . The rudder is also
hinged with CA hinges
but the tail wheel must first be fitted to the rudder
and then glued to the fuse with epoxy at the same time the
hinges are installed.
Stabilizer in place. I used a Du-Bro
antenna hook to secure the antenna wire.
Tail wheel glued in rear of fuse.
wheel pants are painted and constructed of
Their construction is straightforward and
result in a strong assembly.
I laminated 2 pieces of plywood
with some Great
Planes thin CA glue to make a
thicker piece which has a large hole
on one side. I then cut a 1/2 inch hole
in the wheel pant to accommodate the
shaft and glued the laminated piece
of wood into the wheel pant with the holes
lined up. I then drilled 2 holes into
the wheel pant and through the aluminum
landing gear to for the small
sheet metal screws that secures the pants it to the gear
legs and keeps them from rotating. I then assembled the
wheel pants on both sides of the
aluminum landing gear and bolted the assembly to the fuselage with
the supplied screws.
the engine is next. For power in the U-CAN-DO-3D 46
I chose the O.S.
FS-70 II Surpass
first mounted the supplied Great
Planes engine mount to the firewall loosely
per the instructions. Then I fit the engine into
the mount adjusting the spreader bars to fit
the engine. I then clamped the engine onto the
mount and measured exactly 5 inches to the back
of the spinner back plate.
Planes Dead Center Hole Locator tool I marked
the mount for drilling. I drilled the holes
and used the supplied hardware to mount the
motor. I tapped the mount after having drilled
the holes and bolted the motor on securely.
FS-70 II Surpass Closer Look
O.S. .70 4-stroke engine uses a ringed
piston and puts out 1.6bhp
while weighing in at only 23 oz.
with muffler. It's practical rpm
range is 2,000 to 12,000rpm.
Full specifications are below:
11.5cc (0.702 cubic inch)
Output: 1.1 BHP at 11,000rpm
RPM Range: 2,000 - 12,000rpm
w/o muffler- 20.3 oz. (603g)
the engine be run on fuel containing 5% to
15% nitromethane with a oil content
of at least 18%. I chose to
Fuel with 15% nitro and 18%
synthetic oil as I've found it
runs extremely well in all my
engines, especially the 4-strokes.
The synthetic oil helps to keep
the engine cleaner, castor oil can gum them up over time.
of the advantages of 4-stroke
engines is fuel economy. With
the supplied fuel tank in the
U-CAN-DO-3D, flight times with
this engine should be in the 10-18
minute range (depending on
throttle usage) for the longer
time quoted. Other advantages is
that they are quieter, have
more torque and can swing a larger
prop. These are all good things
for the 3D flyer!
recommended by O.S. for the 70FS II are 11x8-9,
12x7-8 and a 12.5x6. But I used an APC 14x4
to get more thrust from the
I was getting about 9000rpm with
this prop which was right where
I wanted it.
engine performs excellent in the
UCD 46. It was easy to start and
to tune. It was a bit rich out
of the factory on the low end
and required about 1.5 to 2 turns
on the low end to get it running
perfect and a smooth transition
from low to high throttle. This
is the 2nd O.S. 70FS II that I have owned
and both are powerful and user
friendly. Typical O.S. quality.
carb is now positioned on the
centerline for increased mounting
flexibility. The tube on the side
connects the fuel intake to a
90° outlet on the crankcase vent
that allows for routing of the
exhaust back into the engine -
keeping the fuselage and inside
of the cowl cleaner.
my larger UCANDO the thrust lines on the firewall
were marked incorrectly and there was no right thrust
built in. On the UCANDO 46 the thrust lines and
right thrust were perfect so no changes were needed as on the other plane. The
image below shows the correct offset on the UCD 46
GLOW IGNITER & GREAT PLANES FUELER CLOSER LOOK
|I'm giving a bit more detail in this review as I tried
several items that I had not used before. These are
the little items or gadgets that make things easier
to set the plane up or to use when at the field. The 2
items I'll discuss here in this section are the Great
Planes Easy Fueler Filler Valve & the Kavan
Remote Glow Plug Igniter.
PLANES EASY FUELER FILLER VALVE
first item, the GP Easy Fueler Filler Valve, is something
I needed because of the enclosed cowl. This simple little
device makes it ever so easy to fuel and defuel your
plane at the field. It consists of the fueler, a washer,
a nut and a filler nipple. Using one of the Great
Planes Handy Mounts designed for the filler, I
mounted the valve to the mount & the mount to the
firewall with some epoxy. Note:
fuelproof the mount before gluing it to the firewall
or installing filler valve. To finish, I attached
the fuel line to the carb and the other line
to going to the tank.
Great Planes Easy Fueler Filler Valve
Filler valve & igniter installed
use the filler you attach the supplied special filler
device to your fuel line from your supply and insert it
into the valve. Simple, elegant and easy.
KAVAN REMOTE GLOW PLUG
Remote glow igniter fastened to inside of cowl
Parts layout for Kavan remote glow plug igniter
above is the Kavan
Deluxe Remote Glow Plug Igniter. This handy
device allows you
to simply attach your glow igniter to the connector
mounted on the outside of the cowl. It's convenient,
easy to use and sharp looking. Without a remote igniter,
you'd have to cut a larger hole in the cowl and
attaching the igniter is usually difficult on inverted
igniter on motor. Note boot on glow plug and
is simple. Attach the remote assembly to the cowl
using the supplied screw. Attach the remote igniter
to the inside of the aluminum housing of the remote
assembly with the black wire under the bolt for the
ground. The red wire goes into the center of the remote
igniter. On the other side the black spark plug jacket
goes over the glow plug and the other side of the
black wire is grounded under an engine mounting
bolt. Two connectors are supplied to make the assembly
removable if you prefer. I cut the extra length of
wire and soldered the connectors to the wire and this
way the cowl can be easily removed from the
finished product! Clean looking & easy to use!
Dressed up with a Tru-Turn
exit cutouts on bottom of fuse. Note slot cut
for muffler bolt access.
items to finish up the fuselage include assembling the
fuel tank, cutting the cowl for the engine, installing
hardwood blocks for the cowl, mounting the canopy &
installing the radio. Let's finish her up and get to
fuel tank per the instructions and then installed it inside the forward part of the fuselage behind the
An addendum states that the fuel tank possibly would
not fit and you might need to Dremel out a bit
to give it clearance. This turned out to be the case and
after a minute with the Dremel the tank was in place.
balsa block is glued behind it to hold it in place. I
then glued the hardwood blocks for mounting the cowl onto
the firewall. Once the glue cured, I test fit the cowl
and drilled holes for the mounting screws.
then taped some cardboard to the fuselage to determine where to cut the holes in the cowl as seen
in the image below to the left. I cut the cowl for
the muffler, the remote igniter, fuel filler, needle valve
and the air intake in the front for cooling the engine.
I used a Dremel Rotary Drum Sander. I then installed a
Voltwatch on the canopy deck, this is a great safety
device to keep an eye on your battery's voltage. I used the 4.8V version which is not
correct for the 6V I ended up using but the decision to
go with 6V pack came later. Regardless it still lets me
know when the pack is in dire straits! After I installed
the Voltwatch, I
secured the canopy using the supplied
sheet metal screws and sealed it to the fuse with some black
I used an APC 14x4 prop
on the O.S. 70FS and topped off the package by using a 2
Ultimate Wide Blade aluminum spinner by Tru-Turn.
For those who might want to use this same combo, the part
no. for the spinner is TT-2052-B-W and the adapter kit for
the O.S. 70FS is TT-0522-A.
Template used to mark hole locations
installed under canopy
Air inlet cut into the cowl for cooling
chose the Futaba
9CAP system for the U-CAN-DO-3D specifically.
For receiver I used a R148DP PCM 8 channel receiver.
All control surfaces used Hobbico
CS-65 Command Servos.
glued the supplied throttle servo tray in the
fuse as per the instructions. Then I installed
the throttle pushrod using the supplied hardware.
I then installed the throttle servo in the tray
in line with the pushrod to minimize strain on
the servo. I used a Futaba S3010 servo for this application
because they are very fast at 6 volts (.16 sec)
and I wanted great throttle response.
battery I used was a Cermark
1650mAh NiMH becauseof its light
weight and extra capacity. With 6 servos I wanted
plenty of reserve power. I wrapped The battery in foam and mounted
it under the fuel tank. I had
done a preliminary balance check on the Great
Planes CG Machine so I knew it should go forward
to end up with the CG at around 5 inches. GP recommends
a CG of 4.5
to 6 inches on this model, so I was safe at 5
inches for a
I used a Cermark
heavy duty on-off switch. This is the first time
I have used one of these switches.
It's very simple to install and use since its
charge jack is actually built in to the switch.
The switch is built so well that it can be used in 40%
aircraft with digital servos, so I knew it would
serve this "petite" UCD 46 well.
9CAP Closer Look
Futaba 9CAP system consists of the transmitter, a FP-R149DP
Micro RX (Dual Conversion), four S3001
servos, switch harness, Nicads & a charger.
system is capable of transmitting
in both PCM and PPM & features 8 model
memory. By adding the CAMpac module,
you can increase the model
memory to 14 models. It features a
memory backup chip that allows the
radio to keep its settings when the
battery is removed for cycling. It
has programming for airplanes, heli's
and gliders. This radio can also be
setup for triple rates.
notable on this system when looking
at it, is the programming dial. I wasn't
too sure about this feature until
I actually tried it. Once I used it,
I found it surprisingly simple and wondered why
other computer radios doesn't use this.
It's much simpler and faster than
9C's programming menus are clear and straightforward.
It is easy to program both simple
parameters such as end points, reversing
and sub-trims as well as advanced
features like dual rates, expo, ailevator
mixing, flaperons & programmable mixes.
transmitter has a very good
feel to it and the stick's lengths are
adjustable. The LCD screen is large
and very easy to read.
of the advanced features are:
trim (2 wing servos, ch's 1&6, can
move as flaps)
Differential (2 wing servos, ch's
1&7, no flap movement)
provides the option to use a 5-ch
servo with either.
(flying wing, 2 servos, operate
together as ail & elev)
(2 elevator servos, ch's 2&8, can
move as ailerons)
(2 angled tail surfaces, 2 servos,
move as elev & rud)
Roll function with up to 4 separate
snaps selectable in flight
mixes in airplane mode include
elevator-to-flap, Airbrake/Crow, throttle-needle
Throttle Delay & 5 programmable linear
mixes (2 for heli).
9C has many more powerful features
for airplanes, gliders and heli's.
There's just too many to list in this "closer look".
For more information on the Futaba
9C system check out the Futaba
added extensions to the rudder & elevator servos
and I applied shrink wrap to the connectors for security.
The servos are now installed into the precut slots at
the rear of the fuselage. As I did for the ailerons,
I used the supplied 2-56 pushrods & hardware
for the elevators and rudder as well as Hobbico
CS-65 high torque servos for both
elevator halves and the rudder.
I connected all the servo leads to the receiver
and then wrapped the receiver in some foam using
rubber bands to secure it. I bolted on the wing
again & put the U-CAN-DO 46 on the Great
Planes CG Machine with the CG set to 5 inches which
was within the acceptable range of 4.5 to 6 inches based
on the manual
View of U-CAN-DO 46
Side Viewof U-CAN-DO
Rear Quarterof U-CAN-DO
all the servos installed it was time to setup the
radio. First all the end points are set for maximum
allowable travel to take advantage of the full resolution
of the radio. Next I activated mixes since I used
direct runs from both the ailerons & elevators to
the receiver instead of a Y connector.
activated flaperons so the ailerons could be plugged
into separate channels for the advanced mixing functions.
I then used the programmable mixes to slave one
elevator to the master elevator. This is how I achieved
having switchable ailevators. I used a mix to slave
the elevators to the ailerons when a switch is activated. If you use the
9C's' ailevator feature then the ailevators are not switchable,
they're always on.
also set up the ailerons to act as flaps using the
left hand slider (on a switch to activate) and also
on a switch slaved to the elevator so the flaperons
would work in conjunction with the elevators for
tight loops. Programming this in the 9C turns out
to be a relatively easy task.
I setup all the control surfaces high & low rates
per the instruction manual. (note:
this was the identical setup to the .60-size UCD. I simply copied the program from one model
to the other and then fine tuned the end points. The 9C made
setting up the UCD 46 go from an hour to under 5 minutes
with the use of the copy model feature.)
like its big brother, I was excited to
get to the most enjoyable part for me, THE FLYING! The
weather was nice but a bit breezy. Ten to 25mph
winds were blowing but I decided to proceed.
maiden flight went quite well. I did not have the usual
preflight jitters that often comes with new aircraft.
Perhaps it was the familiar outline of the big UCD that
I have grown very comfortable with. I lined up the plane
into the wind and advanced the throttle. After a short rollout
she gracefully lifted into the air. A couple clicks
of up elevator were all that was needed to keep the plane tracking
made a few laps around the field just to get the
feel of the plane and then started right into the usual
fun fly maneuvers. Loops could be large
or very small. On high rates with flaperons you can
get the nose to chase the tail. The roll rate on full deflection
(45 degrees) is very fast.
edge maneuvers showed some roll and pitch coupling on my UCD.
I believe it is the CG though as I have flown a friends
UCD 46 which had an O.S. 50SX up front and his had very little
coupling. On mine it was rolling out in the opposite
direction of the rudder and pulling toward the canopy.
was very difficult in the wind, I could not hold a good
hover. Overall I learned that this plane flies FAR better
in calm conditions then it does in the wind.
Subsequent flight tests on days where the
wind was 0 to 5mph made it apparent that the plane
is much more stable in the calm. Hovering is easier,
most maneuvers are easier and landings are much less
are simple as UCD will float right in. Just feed in
some up elevator and you can set the plane down right where
you want it with very little airspeed. The thick wing
makes stalling very hard to do.
TO PUSH THE ENVELOPE!
the first few flights on the maiden day I had the chance
to fly the plane several more times to get used
to it before shooting the video. Weather conditions were
much calmer on the other test days and the lack of wind
makes the UCD 46 shine big time.
I held the nose up until is stalled and brought the plane
into a spin. Applying opposite rudder I was able to get
it into an upright flat spin. Not perfectly flat, but almost.
See the video clips for this maneuver.
I then did some rolls on high rate, they were extremely
fast. Slow speed flight is just awesome. I activated the
flaps and put them down and pointed her in the wind at
1/8th throttle or a little under and the plane basically
stood motionless in the air for as long as I wanted it
to at just a slight nose up attitude. Video
footage of this is at the bottom of this section.
Inverted flight required only a touch of down elevator.
I tried to stall the model but found it practically
impossible to do so. I held the nose up and chopped the
throttle, but the plane just keeps flying. If you can get
it to stall the recovery is so fast it's hard to tell
you stalled it. A lot of confidence is inspired as this plane
has so many good tendencies and very few bad ones, just
like the big brother.
The plane will do super tight inside and outside loops
and sharp 4-point rolls. You can snap it and then come out of it
and go right into a hover (see video). Stall turns are
a piece of cake and look great. I also did a "segmented"
stall turn where you abruptly jar the rudder in stages
through the maneuver. Looks very cool and you can see
this in the video.
I could not get it to do a blender just yet but I plan
on moving the CG back as far as 5.5 to 6 inches and see if
On the last flight when we were shooting the video I
pushed the envelope. The plane was up for about 20 minutes and I was coming in for a landing. I wanted to
do a roll at about 10 feet off the deck with low airspeed
and then land. Well, the motor ran out of fuel (no
surprise after 20 minutes) and died as soon as the plane
was on its back and very low to the ground. It had very
little airspeed as well. I applied full aileron and full up elevator. This whole process took just
2 seconds. The plane landed perfectly flat on the ground
and no damage other than a bent landing gear which I straightened
out by hand. You can see this in the
video and even a slow motion version (video #4).
I have heard some accounts in the forums where pilots were adding wires or braces to the tail or extra support
to the landing mount. I will state that I flew this plane
as hard as most anyone would trying the most violent snaps
and 3D maneuvers (like the blender). The wing and tail held
up without a hitch on this plane and the VERY brutal landing
was a good test for the durability of this plane. This
is not to say that select modelers did not have issues
with the stab or wing but after hearing a few accounts
of trouble I risked my UCD 46 by pushing it to the limit
to see if I could break it, in the end I couldn't.
the words in the world don't do the UCD as much justice
as seeing some video, so for our website viewers I have
shot some digital video of the U-CAN-DO-3D going through
some of its paces. You can click any of the icons below
to view the videos.
PLANES U-CAN-DO-3D 46 VIDEOS
Windows Media Player Format
3D - Rolling Harriers, Blenders & Torque Rolls
This video was taken by a local up-and-coming 3D
pilot, Rich Poe,
who added this plane to his arsenal just a few
We were so impressed with this 3D demo of the UCD
decided to share his video with you.
-RCU Editing Staff
summary, I have the unique privilege of having flown
two .60-size UCD's, mine with an O.S. 90FS and the other
with a Saito 100. I have also flown two UCD 46's, one
had an O.S. 50SX and mine the O.S. 70FS. I can compare both
planes with 2 power plants each. All were capable of
hovering on these engines. The .60-size UCD with the Saito
100 had the best pullout power in the hover. All flew
very similar and doing 3D aerobatics is relatively
easy. They are all very forgiving aircraft and let you
get away with things that would end the lives of most
other models. Witness my hairy landing video for one
UCD's have what I like to call a very high "fun factor".
They are relaxing to fly and forgiving. Plus you can be
as wild or as tame as you like. There is little that
they cannot do and at a cost of $149.99 for the U-CAN-DO-3D
46 the price to fun ratio is enormous. Furthermore
I can put it assembled in one piece into my vehicle
which decreases the setup time at the field.
U-CAN-DO 60 and its smaller brother the U-CAN-DO .46 are among the most talked about in our forums.
If you have questions about these planes or this review
simply visit our forums on RC Universe and an enormous
amount of information on them is available!
P.O. Box 9021
Champaign, IL 61826-9021 USA
GP Easy Fuel Filler Valve, Handy Mounts, Fuel Filter, Epoxy,
CA, GP CG Machine
Futaba Corporation of America
Distributed Exclusively in the U.S.A., Canada and Mexico
Great Planes Model Distributors
P.O. Box 9021; Champaign, IL 61826-9021
Distributed Exclusively in the U.S.A., Canada and Mexico
Great Planes Model Distributors
P.O. Box 9021; Champaign, IL 61826-9021
Distributed Exclusively in the U.S.A., Canada and Mexico
Great Planes Model Distributors
P.O. Box 9021; Champaign, IL 61826-9021
FS-70 II Glow Engine
9830 Bell Ranch Drive
Santa Fe Springs, CA 90670
Battery Pack, HD Switch
Hobby Lobby International
5614 Franklin Pike Circle
Brentwood, N.J. 37027
Web Site: www.hobby-lobby.com
Remote Glow Plug Igniter
480 Bonner Road, Wauconda, IL 60084
Products: Control Horns, Antenna Keeper
Tru-Turn (Romco Mfg., Inc.)
100 West 1st Street
Deer Park, Texas, 77536
Products: Aluminum Spinner