RCU Magazine Review - Great Planes U-Can-Do 3D ARF - 46

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    Contributed by: Marc Vigod

    Great Planes
    Model Distributors

    P.O. Box 9021
    Champaign, IL 61826-9021
    Phone: 217-398-3630
    Fax: 217-398-0008

    Window Media Player

    Ease of Assembly:
    Completeness of Kit:
    Covering Quality:
    Basic Flight:
    Advanced Flight:
    Stall Characteristicst:

    • Fast easy assembly
    • Excellent instruction manual
    • Attractive trim scheme & color
    • Extensive quality hardware package
    • Fiberglass Cowl & wheel pants
    • Capable 3D aerobatic performer
    • Slow speed flying characteristics
    • Just plain fun!

    • Not as stable in gusty conditions

    • Fully covered wing, fuselage, tail
    • Fuel tank, tubing, clunk
    • Spinner
    • Motor mount & bolts
    • Pushrods
    • Pre painted fiberglass cowl
    • Pre painted wheel pants
    • Canopy
    • Decals
    • Steerable tail wheel
    • Wing bolts, control horns, clevises.
    • Other assorted hardware

    Great Planes has certainly made its mark on the "3D" world for the average flyer with their famous .60-size "U-CAN-DO-3D" model. Now, hot off the heels of this, one of the most successful model aircraft ever made, is its little brother, the 'U-CAN-DO-3D 46".

    This scaled down version of the UCANDO is designed around the popular .32-.51 c. i. (5-8.5cc) 2-stroke or .52-.70 c.i. (8.5-11.5cc) 4-stroke engines. It also requires a minimum 6 standard servos and a 4-channel radio. Since the UCD 46 is smaller, the overall final price tag will also be lower with the use of the very popular and relatively inexpensive 46-size displacement engines. The plane is priced to sell at a street price of $149.99.

    Construction is of built up balsa and ply and it is covered in 4 colors of MonoKote. The cowl & wheel pants are painted fiberglass and the landing gear is made of aluminum. Great Planes outstanding hardware is provided and includes a glass motor mount, pushrods, engine bolts, wheels, fuel tank, control horns, pushrods, clevises and a spinner.

    At a glance you can see that the tail is a bit different when compared to its big brother. The stab is placed up higher and the rudder is shaped a bit different. I believe this was done to minimize some of the coupling tendencies that the larger UCD has shown in certain maneuvers. Great Planes has retained the covering pattern but changed the colors. I personally like the colors on the smaller UCD.

    Last year I wrote a very detailed review of the .60 UCD in our very own RCU Magazine. In that review, I covered in great detail the entire construction process. In this review, I will use details of that review and will make changes or comments where there are differences. Overall, the construction and assembly of both planes are virtually identical, so a complete rewrite of the UCD 46 from scratch would be unwarranted. I also reused a few images where applicable. The manual shows a lot of detail including many pictures. They are a perfect build guide as they should be. I have included a link below to view the assembly manual for this model.

    I have also included plenty of video in this review. There's a "First Look" video of the plane out of the box and also a "video weigh in" of all parts. At the end in the flight performance section, I have 4 videos showing the UCD 46 in action. So without further delay let's get this party started!

    Windows Media Player Format
    Video one shows the parts as they come out of the box.
    Video two shows each part being weighed.

    Parts out of the box
    Component weigh in

    Price: $149.99
    56.75 in. (1400mm)
    Wing area: 904 sq. in. (58.3 dm2)
    Length: 58.5 in. (1485mm)
    Flying Weight as tested: Total: 6 lbs. 5 oz. (dry)
    Fuse is 4lbs 14 oz
    Wing is 1lb 7 oz.
    Wing loading: 16.1 oz./sq. ft.
    Wing Loading as tested: 16.1 oz./sq. ft.
    Airfoil: symmetrical
    Skill level:

    Radio Used:
    Futaba 9C Transmitter
    Futaba R148DP PCM Rx
    (5) Hobbico CS-65 Servos for elevator, rudder, ailerons

    (1) Futaba S3010 servo for throttle
    Channels Used:
    5 total - elevator*, aileron*, rudder, throttle (*mixes were used on elevator & aileron - see text)

    Battery Used:
    1 Cermark 6V 1600 Mah Nickel Metal Hydride
    Motor Used: O.S. FS-70 II Surpass
    Prop Used: APC 14x4
    Spinner Used: Tru-Turn

    Required to Complete:

    • 4-channel radio with 6 servos
    • .32-.51 c.i. (5-8.5cc) 2-stroke or .52-.70 c.i. (8.5-11.5cc) 4-stroke engine
    • Servo Wire Extensions
    • Fuel Tubing
    • CA glue, epoxy, loctite thread lock
    • Propeller
    • Standard building tools

    LEFT: The parts complete as they come out of the box!

    RIGHT: Read the entire A+ instruction manual by clicking image

    As with any ARF or kit, the first step is to carefully unpack everything . In the above image to the left you can see all the pieces included and the accessories exactly as they come out of the box. The fuselage, wing, tail feathers & control surfaces are all built and covered. The fiberglass cowl and wheel pants are painted to match the MonoKote. The instruction manual is extremely well done. Step by step pictures show each phase of assembly and the written instructions are very clear. The instruction manual was a "hit" in my opinion on both the UCD 46 and the .60-size UCD. Click here to read the manual.


    The U-CAN-DO wing comes in one piece, so it's not necessary to join them! So what's left to finish up the wing you ask? Not very much so let's get started. The first step is to glue in the provided wing dowel. I cut the covering to reveal the drilled hole in the leading edge of the wing and used some Titebond wood glue to secure the dowel.

    Wing dowel on center leading edge of wing (click images for full size)

    LEFT: CA Hinges used for the ailerons

    RIGHT: Aileron Servo installation (Hobbico CS-65's)

    The manual is so good that it not only tells you to CA the hinges but gives you the proper technique and details for doing so. For those who are unfamiliar with CA hinges, this is very helpful. Included in the kit is a large CA hinge strip which is 2x9 inches that you need need to cut into 3/4x1 inch [19 x 25mm] hinges from the strip. This is easily done with an Exacto or sharp razor blade. Once the strips are cut to size, the I followed the directions in the instruction manual to glue the aileron hinges in place.

    The next step is to install the aileron servos, pushrods and control horns. I cut the covering away from the servo openings in the wing where the servos will be placed. I used Hobbico CS-65 servos which are high torque and dual ball bearings. At 6 volts they put out 92 oz./in. of torque at a speed of .13 seconds. Perfect for this sort of plane. String is threaded through the wing so you can easily tie onto the servo wires and pull them through to the wing's center section. Note the heat shrink tubing over the servo extension.

    I used the provided 2-56 metal pushrods and clevises to hook up the servos to the control horns. I did substitute the control horns on the ailerons with Du-Bro horns. I find them easy to use since only one hole has to be drilled to install them. Typical control horns are often difficult to get the screws to line up, especially on tapered control surfaces.

    To complete the wing assembly, I glued the belly pan on with some 5-minute epoxy. First I bolted the wing onto the fuselage and then lined up the belly pan with some glue on the bottom of it. When the glue had set, I used some masking tape on each side of the belly pan between the wing and the fuse so I could lay down a filet of 5-minute epoxy to seal & strengthen the bond. After smoothing the filet with the end of a Popsicle stick I quickly removed the tape before the epoxy began to set.

    The belly pan is glued to the bottom of wing with 5-minute epoxy.

    That completes the assembly of the wing so we are onto the fuselage!


    Assembly of the fuselage on the U-CAN-DO-3D 46 differs in the tail from its big brother. This plane is more typical of ARF's in tail assembly. First, I fit the horizontal stab into the fuse after cutting away the covering. Using a piece of Kevlar string and a pin stuck in the center of the fuse at the nose I aligned the stab. Once aligned I marked its position and then removed it and cut the covering off the stab with a hot soldering iron. I also trial fit the vertical fin, marked it and removed the covering where marked. I then used 30-minute epoxy to secure both of them in place ensuring that they were aligned while the glue cured.

    CA hinges are used to hinge the elevators and the same process as the ailerons is used . The rudder is also hinged with CA hinges but the tail wheel must first be fitted to the rudder and then glued to the fuse with epoxy at the same time the hinges are installed.

    LEFT: Stabilizer in place. I used a Du-Bro antenna hook to secure the antenna wire.

    RIGHT: Tail wheel glued in rear of fuse.


    The wheel pants are painted and constructed of sturdy fiberglass. Their construction is straightforward and result in a strong assembly.

    First I laminated 2 pieces of plywood with some Great Planes thin CA glue to make a thicker piece which has a large hole on one side. I then cut a 1/2 inch hole in the wheel pant to accommodate the shaft and glued the laminated piece of wood into the wheel pant with the holes lined up. I then drilled 2 holes into the wheel pant and through the aluminum landing gear to for the small sheet metal screws that secures the pants it to the gear legs and keeps them from rotating. I then assembled the wheel pants on both sides of the aluminum landing gear and bolted the assembly to the fuselage with the supplied screws.


    Mounting the engine is next. For power in the U-CAN-DO-3D 46 I chose the O.S. FS-70 II Surpass

    I first mounted the supplied Great Planes engine mount to the firewall loosely per the instructions. Then I fit the engine into the mount adjusting the spreader bars to fit the engine. I then clamped the engine onto the mount and measured exactly 5 inches to the back of the spinner back plate.

    Great Planes Dead Center Hole Locator tool

    Mark holes for engine bolts

    Using the Great Planes Dead Center Hole Locator tool I marked the mount for drilling. I drilled the holes and used the supplied hardware to mount the motor. I tapped the mount after having drilled the holes and bolted the motor on securely.

    OS FS-70 II Surpass Closer Look
    O.S. FS-70 II Surpass

    4-Stroke power for the U-CAN-DO-3D 46

    The O.S. .70 4-stroke engine uses a ringed piston and puts out 1.6bhp while weighing in at only 23 oz. with muffler. It's practical rpm range is 2,000 to 12,000rpm. Full specifications are below:

    • Bore: 27.7mm (1.02")
    • Stroke: 26mm (.976")
    • Displacement: 11.5cc (0.702 cubic inch)
    • Power Output: 1.1 BHP at 11,000rpm
    • Practical RPM Range: 2,000 - 12,000rpm
    • Weight: w/o muffler- 20.3 oz. (603g)

    O.S. recommends the engine be run on fuel containing 5% to 15% nitromethane with a oil content of at least 18%. I chose to use Wildcat Fuel with 15% nitro and 18% synthetic oil as I've found it runs extremely well in all my engines, especially the 4-strokes. The synthetic oil helps to keep the engine cleaner, castor oil can gum them up over time.

    One of the advantages of 4-stroke engines is fuel economy. With the supplied fuel tank in the U-CAN-DO-3D, flight times with this engine should be in the 10-18 minute range (depending on throttle usage) for the longer time quoted. Other advantages is that they are quieter, have more torque and can swing a larger prop. These are all good things for the 3D flyer!

    Props recommended by O.S. for the 70FS II are 11x8-9, 12x7-8 and a 12.5x6. But I used an APC 14x4 to get more thrust from the engine. I was getting about 9000rpm with this prop which was right where I wanted it.

    The engine performs excellent in the UCD 46. It was easy to start and to tune. It was a bit rich out of the factory on the low end and required about 1.5 to 2 turns on the low end to get it running perfect and a smooth transition from low to high throttle. This is the 2nd O.S. 70FS II that I have owned and both are powerful and user friendly. Typical O.S. quality.

    The carb is now positioned on the centerline for increased mounting flexibility. The tube on the side connects the fuel intake to a 90° outlet on the crankcase vent that allows for routing of the exhaust back into the engine - keeping the fuselage and inside of the cowl cleaner.

    On my larger UCANDO the thrust lines on the firewall were marked incorrectly and there was no right thrust built in. On the UCANDO 46 the thrust lines and right thrust were perfect so no changes were needed as on the other plane. The image below shows the correct offset on the UCD 46 firewall.

    I'm giving a bit more detail in this review as I tried several items that I had not used before. These are the little items or gadgets that make things easier to set the plane up or to use when at the field. The 2 items I'll discuss here in this section are the Great Planes Easy Fueler Filler Valve & the Kavan Remote Glow Plug Igniter.


    The first item, the GP Easy Fueler Filler Valve, is something I needed because of the enclosed cowl. This simple little device makes it ever so easy to fuel and defuel your plane at the field. It consists of the fueler, a washer, a nut and a filler nipple. Using one of the Great Planes Handy Mounts designed for the filler, I mounted the valve to the mount & the mount to the firewall with some epoxy. Note: fuelproof the mount before gluing it to the firewall or installing filler valve. To finish, I attached the fuel line to the carb and the other line to going to the tank.

    LEFT: Great Planes Easy Fueler Filler Valve

    RIGHT: Filler valve & igniter installed

    To use the filler you attach the supplied special filler device to your fuel line from your supply and insert it into the valve. Simple, elegant and easy.


    LEFT: Remote glow igniter fastened to inside of cowl

    RIGHT: Parts layout for Kavan remote glow plug igniter

    Pictured above is the Kavan Deluxe Remote Glow Plug Igniter. This handy device allows you to simply attach your glow igniter to the connector mounted on the outside of the cowl. It's convenient, easy to use and sharp looking. Without a remote igniter, you'd have to cut a larger hole in the cowl and attaching the igniter is usually difficult on inverted engines.

    Remote igniter on motor. Note boot on glow plug and ground

    Installation is simple. Attach the remote assembly to the cowl using the supplied screw. Attach the remote igniter to the inside of the aluminum housing of the remote assembly with the black wire under the bolt for the ground. The red wire goes into the center of the remote igniter. On the other side the black spark plug jacket goes over the glow plug and the other side of the black wire is grounded under an engine mounting bolt. Two connectors are supplied to make the assembly removable if you prefer. I cut the extra length of wire and soldered the connectors to the wire and this way the cowl can be easily removed from the model.

    The finished product! Clean looking & easy to use! Dressed up with a Tru-Turn Aluminum Spinner
    Air exit cutouts on bottom of fuse. Note slot cut for muffler bolt access.


    Final items to finish up the fuselage include assembling the fuel tank, cutting the cowl for the engine, installing hardwood blocks for the cowl, mounting the canopy & installing the radio. Let's finish her up and get to the field!

    I assembled the fuel tank per the instructions and then installed it inside the forward part of the fuselage behind the engine. An addendum states that the fuel tank possibly would not fit and you might need to Dremel out a bit to give it clearance. This turned out to be the case and after a minute with the Dremel the tank was in place.

    A balsa block is glued behind it to hold it in place. I then glued the hardwood blocks for mounting the cowl onto the firewall. Once the glue cured, I test fit the cowl and drilled holes for the mounting screws.

    I then taped some cardboard to the fuselage to determine where to cut the holes in the cowl as seen in the image below to the left. I cut the cowl for the muffler, the remote igniter, fuel filler, needle valve and the air intake in the front for cooling the engine. I used a Dremel Rotary Drum Sander. I then installed a Hobbico Voltwatch on the canopy deck, this is a great safety device to keep an eye on your battery's voltage. I used the 4.8V version which is not correct for the 6V I ended up using but the decision to go with 6V pack came later. Regardless it still lets me know when the pack is in dire straits! After I installed the Voltwatch, I secured the canopy using the supplied sheet metal screws and sealed it to the fuse with some black electrical tape.

    I used an APC 14x4 prop on the O.S. 70FS and topped off the package by using a 2 inch diameter Ultimate Wide Blade aluminum spinner by Tru-Turn. For those who might want to use this same combo, the part no. for the spinner is TT-2052-B-W and the adapter kit for the O.S. 70FS is TT-0522-A.

    Template used to mark hole locations in cowl

    Voltwatch installed under canopy

    Air inlet cut into the cowl for cooling motor

    I chose the Futaba 9CAP system for the U-CAN-DO-3D specifically. For receiver I used a R148DP PCM 8 channel receiver. All control surfaces used Hobbico CS-65 Command Servos.

    I glued the supplied throttle servo tray in the fuse as per the instructions. Then I installed the throttle pushrod using the supplied hardware. I then installed the throttle servo in the tray in line with the pushrod to minimize strain on the servo. I used a Futaba S3010 servo for this application because they are very fast at 6 volts (.16 sec) and I wanted great throttle response.

    Throttle servo installation

    The battery I used was a Cermark 1650mAh NiMH becauseof its light weight and extra capacity. With 6 servos I wanted plenty of reserve power. I wrapped The battery in foam and mounted it under the fuel tank. I had done a preliminary balance check on the Great Planes CG Machine so I knew it should go forward to end up with the CG at around 5 inches. GP recommends a CG of 4.5 to 6 inches on this model, so I was safe at 5 inches for a starting point.

    Finally I used a Cermark heavy duty on-off switch. This is the first time I have used one of these switches. It's very simple to install and use since its charge jack is actually built in to the switch. The switch is built so well that it can be used in 40% aircraft with digital servos, so I knew it would serve this "petite" UCD 46 well.

    Futaba 9CAP Closer Look

    The Futaba 9CAP system consists of the transmitter, a FP-R149DP Micro RX (Dual Conversion), four S3001 servos, switch harness, Nicads & a charger.

    The system is capable of transmitting in both PCM and PPM & features 8 model memory. By adding the CAMpac module, you can increase the model memory to 14 models. It features a memory backup chip that allows the radio to keep its settings when the battery is removed for cycling. It has programming for airplanes, heli's and gliders. This radio can also be setup for triple rates.

    Most notable on this system when looking at it, is the programming dial. I wasn't too sure about this feature until I actually tried it. Once I used it, I found it surprisingly simple and wondered why other computer radios doesn't use this. It's much simpler and faster than pushing buttons.

    The 9C's programming menus are clear and straightforward. It is easy to program both simple parameters such as end points, reversing and sub-trims as well as advanced features like dual rates, expo, ailevator mixing, flaperons & programmable mixes.

    The transmitter has a very good feel to it and the stick's lengths are adjustable. The LCD screen is large and very easy to read.

    Some of the advanced features are:

    • Flaperon/flap trim (2 wing servos, ch's 1&6, can move as flaps)
    • Aileron Differential (2 wing servos, ch's 1&7, no flap movement)
    • AIL2 provides the option to use a 5-ch servo with either.
    • Elevon (flying wing, 2 servos, operate together as ail & elev)
    • Ailevator (2 elevator servos, ch's 2&8, can move as ailerons)
    • V-tail (2 angled tail surfaces, 2 servos, move as elev & rud)
    • Snap Roll function with up to 4 separate snaps selectable in flight

    Programmable mixes in airplane mode include elevator-to-flap, Airbrake/Crow, throttle-needle Throttle Delay & 5 programmable linear mixes (2 for heli).

    The 9C has many more powerful features for airplanes, gliders and heli's. There's just too many to list in this "closer look". For more information on the Futaba 9C system check out the Futaba Website at:


    I added extensions to the rudder & elevator servos and I applied shrink wrap to the connectors for security. The servos are now installed into the precut slots at the rear of the fuselage. As I did for the ailerons, I used the supplied 2-56 pushrods & hardware for the elevators and rudder as well as Hobbico CS-65 high torque servos for both elevator halves and the rudder.
    Finally I connected all the servo leads to the receiver and then wrapped the receiver in some foam using rubber bands to secure it. I bolted on the wing again & put the U-CAN-DO 46 on the Great Planes CG Machine with the CG set to 5 inches which was within the acceptable range of 4.5 to 6 inches based on the manual addendum.

    Front View of U-CAN-DO 46

    Front Quarterof U-CAN-DO 46

    Side View
    of U-CAN-DO 46

    Rear Quarterof U-CAN-DO 46

    Rear Viewof U-CAN-DO 46

    Radio Setup

    With all the servos installed it was time to setup the radio. First all the end points are set for maximum allowable travel to take advantage of the full resolution of the radio. Next I activated mixes since I used direct runs from both the ailerons & elevators to the receiver instead of a Y connector.

    I activated flaperons so the ailerons could be plugged into separate channels for the advanced mixing functions. I then used the programmable mixes to slave one elevator to the master elevator. This is how I achieved having switchable ailevators. I used a mix to slave the elevators to the ailerons when a switch is activated. If you use the 9C's' ailevator feature then the ailevators are not switchable, they're always on.

    I also set up the ailerons to act as flaps using the left hand slider (on a switch to activate) and also on a switch slaved to the elevator so the flaperons would work in conjunction with the elevators for tight loops. Programming this in the 9C turns out to be a relatively easy task.

    Finally I setup all the control surfaces high & low rates per the instruction manual. (note: this was the identical setup to the .60-size UCD. I simply copied the program from one model to the other and then fine tuned the end points. The 9C made setting up the UCD 46 go from an hour to under 5 minutes with the use of the copy model feature.)

    Just like its big brother, I was excited to get to the most enjoyable part for me, THE FLYING! The weather was nice but a bit breezy. Ten to 25mph winds were blowing but I decided to proceed.


    The maiden flight went quite well. I did not have the usual preflight jitters that often comes with new aircraft. Perhaps it was the familiar outline of the big UCD that I have grown very comfortable with. I lined up the plane into the wind and advanced the throttle. After a short rollout she gracefully lifted into the air. A couple clicks of up elevator were all that was needed to keep the plane tracking straight.

    I made a few laps around the field just to get the feel of the plane and then started right into the usual fun fly maneuvers. Loops could be large or very small. On high rates with flaperons you can get the nose to chase the tail. The roll rate on full deflection (45 degrees) is very fast.

    Knife edge maneuvers showed some roll and pitch coupling on my UCD. I believe it is the CG though as I have flown a friends UCD 46 which had an O.S. 50SX up front and his had very little coupling. On mine it was rolling out in the opposite direction of the rudder and pulling toward the canopy.

    Hovering was very difficult in the wind, I could not hold a good hover. Overall I learned that this plane flies FAR better in calm conditions then it does in the wind. Subsequent flight tests on days where the wind was 0 to 5mph made it apparent that the plane is much more stable in the calm. Hovering is easier, most maneuvers are easier and landings are much less eventful.

    Landings are simple as UCD will float right in. Just feed in some up elevator and you can set the plane down right where you want it with very little airspeed. The thick wing makes stalling very hard to do.


    After the first few flights on the maiden day I had the chance to fly the plane several more times to get used to it before shooting the video. Weather conditions were much calmer on the other test days and the lack of wind makes the UCD 46 shine big time.

    I held the nose up until is stalled and brought the plane into a spin. Applying opposite rudder I was able to get it into an upright flat spin. Not perfectly flat, but almost. See the video clips for this maneuver.

    I then did some rolls on high rate, they were extremely fast. Slow speed flight is just awesome. I activated the flaps and put them down and pointed her in the wind at 1/8th throttle or a little under and the plane basically stood motionless in the air for as long as I wanted it to at just a slight nose up attitude. Video footage of this is at the bottom of this section.

    Inverted flight required only a touch of down elevator. I tried to stall the model but found it practically impossible to do so. I held the nose up and chopped the throttle, but the plane just keeps flying. If you can get it to stall the recovery is so fast it's hard to tell you stalled it. A lot of confidence is inspired as this plane has so many good tendencies and very few bad ones, just like the big brother.

    The plane will do super tight inside and outside loops and sharp 4-point rolls. You can snap it and then come out of it and go right into a hover (see video). Stall turns are a piece of cake and look great. I also did a "segmented" stall turn where you abruptly jar the rudder in stages through the maneuver. Looks very cool and you can see this in the video.

    I could not get it to do a blender just yet but I plan on moving the CG back as far as 5.5 to 6 inches and see if that helps.

    On the last flight when we were shooting the video I pushed the envelope. The plane was up for about 20 minutes and I was coming in for a landing. I wanted to do a roll at about 10 feet off the deck with low airspeed and then land. Well, the motor ran out of fuel (no surprise after 20 minutes) and died as soon as the plane was on its back and very low to the ground. It had very little airspeed as well. I applied full aileron and full up elevator. This whole process took just 2 seconds. The plane landed perfectly flat on the ground and no damage other than a bent landing gear which I straightened out by hand. You can see this in the video and even a slow motion version (video #4).

    I have heard some accounts in the forums where pilots were adding wires or braces to the tail or extra support to the landing mount. I will state that I flew this plane as hard as most anyone would trying the most violent snaps and 3D maneuvers (like the blender). The wing and tail held up without a hitch on this plane and the VERY brutal landing was a good test for the durability of this plane. This is not to say that select modelers did not have issues with the stab or wing but after hearing a few accounts of trouble I risked my UCD 46 by pushing it to the limit to see if I could break it, in the end I couldn't.

    All the words in the world don't do the UCD as much justice as seeing some video, so for our website viewers I have shot some digital video of the U-CAN-DO-3D going through some of its paces. You can click any of the icons below to view the videos.

    Windows Media Player Format

    Video #1
    Video #2
    Video #3
    Video #4

    WILD 3D - Rolling Harriers, Blenders & Torque Rolls

    Video #5
    This video was taken by a local up-and-coming 3D pilot, Rich Poe,
    who added this plane to his arsenal just a few weeks ago.
    We were so impressed with this 3D demo of the UCD that we
    decided to share his video with you.
    -RCU Editing Staff

    In summary, I have the unique privilege of having flown two .60-size UCD's, mine with an O.S. 90FS and the other with a Saito 100. I have also flown two UCD 46's, one had an O.S. 50SX and mine the O.S. 70FS. I can compare both planes with 2 power plants each. All were capable of hovering on these engines. The .60-size UCD with the Saito 100 had the best pullout power in the hover. All flew very similar and doing 3D aerobatics is relatively easy. They are all very forgiving aircraft and let you get away with things that would end the lives of most other models. Witness my hairy landing video for one example.

    The UCD's have what I like to call a very high "fun factor". They are relaxing to fly and forgiving. Plus you can be as wild or as tame as you like. There is little that they cannot do and at a cost of $149.99 for the U-CAN-DO-3D 46 the price to fun ratio is enormous. Furthermore I can put it assembled in one piece into my vehicle which decreases the setup time at the field.

    The U-CAN-DO 60 and its smaller brother the U-CAN-DO .46 are among the most talked about in our forums. If you have questions about these planes or this review simply visit our forums on RC Universe and an enormous amount of information on them is available!

    P.O. Box 9021
    Champaign, IL 61826-9021 USA
    Phone: 217-398-3630
    Fax: 217-398-0008
    Website: www.greatplanes.com
    email: productsupport@greatplanes.com
    U-CAN-DO-3D, GP Easy Fuel Filler Valve, Handy Mounts, Fuel Filter, Epoxy, CA, GP CG Machine

    Futaba Corporation of America

    Distributed Exclusively in the U.S.A., Canada and Mexico by:
    Great Planes Model Distributors
    P.O. Box 9021; Champaign, IL 61826-9021
    Website: www.futaba-rc.com
    Product: Futaba 9CAP tx

    Hobbico, Inc.

    Distributed Exclusively in the U.S.A., Canada and Mexico by:
    Great Planes Model Distributors
    P.O. Box 9021; Champaign, IL 61826-9021
    Website: www.hobbico.com
    Product: Command Servos

    OS Engines
    Distributed Exclusively in the U.S.A., Canada and Mexico by:
    Great Planes Model Distributors
    P.O. Box 9021; Champaign, IL 61826-9021
    Website: www.osengines.com
    Product: OS FS-70 II Glow Engine

    9830 Bell Ranch Drive
    Santa Fe Springs, CA 90670
    Phone: 1-800-704-6229
    Website: www.cermark.com
    Products: NiMh Battery Pack, HD Switch

    Hobby Lobby International

    5614 Franklin Pike Circle
    Brentwood, N.J. 37027
    Tel: 615-373-1444
    Email: sales@hobby-lobby.com
    Web Site: www.hobby-lobby.com
    Product: Kavan Remote Glow Plug Igniter

    Dubro, Inc.
    480 Bonner Road, Wauconda, IL 60084
    Phone: 800-848-9411
    Website: www.dubro.com
    Products: Control Horns, Antenna Keeper

    Tru-Turn (Romco Mfg., Inc.)
    100 West 1st Street
    Deer Park, Texas, 77536
    Phone: 281-479-9600
    Website: www.tru-turn.com
    email: questions@tru-turn.com
    Products: Aluminum Spinner

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