JDRACING

Need any help or information on the RC18T then Post here!

Drew

e46mpower

Okay guys, maybe you guys can help me out. I have a Mamba X Competition Package on my RC18T. Up until yesterday, I was running the stock battery with the Mamba. It was great. Then I got a 7 cell, GP1100 pack and put it in. For the first three minutes, it was great, no problems and very fast. Then, a sound from the car is heard. The same sound as if the pinion gear and spur gear not having enough contact, as if they were slipping. I checked that and re-tightened the spur gear closer to the pinion gear. But still, the sound persists. Do you guys think there is a problem with the differeential/input gears or something else??? That grinding sound doesn't sound very good and must be bad for the car. Anybody know of any metal replacement spur, differential/input gears yet????

travis m

My Feedback: (3)

did you make i flat spot on the mamba shaft it could be the pinion slidding on the shaft if you have not notched it out

studysession

You do not need to make a flat spot to keep the pinion on. A lot of people just put a little dot of lock-tite on the shaft and a little dot on the set screw and it holds on fine. Me I just screw the set screw on with no lock tite and it holds with no worries.

JDRACING

Im not sure try this thread........
[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/MAMBA_Brushless_Motor_Thread%21/m_2032828/tm.htm]The Thread[/link]

RC RAC3R

My rc18t makes grinding noises[:'(] as well.. does anyone know if and where i can get a ball diff ?? thanks..

i also fried teh stock ESC somehow.. and the stock motor died.. atleast the track got some parts in, so i bought two stock motors.. and when to my LHS and got a intellispeed ESC and it works great..

travis m

My Feedback: (3)

i call associated about the diff clickingand they made a shim kit it is awesome it works great you can was 1 or 2 they come with 4 of them 2 for front and 2 for rear here is were the shims go

rc10gt4master

My Feedback: (3)

yup that will solve it just shim your diff... lol that sounds funny anyway its usually the rear but im sure shiming the front wouldnt hurt. anyone know where to get aluminum out drives yet?

"Crispy"

e46mpower

Wow, I didn't know about the diff shims. I'm not sure if any of the LHS will be carrying that shim kit. I did open up the diff and yup, my gears in the rear were stripped. I wish someone made metal gears that were readily avaiable for the RC18T. Or is there, and I am not aware of it... anyway, just for fun, I took the diff from the front because it was still good and put it in the rear, and left the front diffs out....converted it into a rear wheel drive, but not fun because it just goes in circles. I have to 1/4 throttle it in order to make it go straight...

travis m

My Feedback: (3)

call associated and they will help you out

kchamp

I too am having rear diff problems, instead of clicking mine won't even move when all four wheels are on the ground. It was running fine then all of a sudden the gears in the rear would not move. Anyone out their with a similar problem or can help me?

smitty4

My Feedback: (4)

What happened to me hearing clicking sounds was I lost a few shock caps and so I didnt have any shock pressure. So my shafts were clicking because they wouldnt stay in. I rubbed the knobs off of one completly, not knowing what was wrong..... CHECK YOUR SHOCKS

Rick Delten

I got a question, should a FT18T roll freely when not on the throttle?

Mine doesn't.

speedzy

My Feedback: (1)

I got a few questions and problems about my RC18T FT myself. I just finished building it yesterday and everything works fine, except that my accelaeration is real slow. It sounds almost like it has a slipper clutch, and it has hardly any power.

BigTruckDriver

Sounds like you might need to adjust you diff.,well both front and back.Tighten them up and then turn back 1/4 of a full turn.Is your motor winding up ,and has poor acceleration?ote]ORIGINAL: speedzy

I got a few questions and problems about my RC18T FT myself. I just finished building it yesterday and everything works fine, except that my accelaeration is real slow. It sounds almost like it has a slipper clutch, and it has hardly any power.
[/quote]

speedzy

My Feedback: (1)

I just tightened the diffs and now the truck works fine, thanks.

BeerSlave

anyone know if the mini inferno diffs will work/fit on the 18t?

cardriverx

If your 18t is clicking and its not the diffs, check the dogbone. What happened to me is the spring for the dogbone came out so the dogbone was slipping on the stub axle, causeing a clicking sound and wearing down the pin on the dogbone. just thought id let you gys know!

JuJuB

My Feedback: (1)

BeerSlave,
I don't think that the H8 diffs would work n da 18t plus y would u want to see? I think if they can b used in it then the diffs would b slightly larger and lead to other problems, but u can try it if u realy want to.

speedzy,
U mite want to try a different pinion gear/spur gear combo. Just by some different pion gears and spur gears and experiment.

Now here are my questions:
I'm going to be doing some on-road racing and am going to get Golden Horizon Mini-T shocks (cause they don't leak and they're really good) I was wondering what type of shock oil I should put in them, and also what kind of spring I need to put on them? I read in another thread that I should put gold Mini-t springs on them and 40wt oil.

Wats the very best diff oil/lube to use?

Wats a nots so expensive ESC that works great?

Wats sum good solder to use?

bigtrucklst

I have now burned up to XPS speed controllers. Could my minimax motor be causing this. Or could it be my batteries. I have the stock sport pack and a reedy mini max pack. The first esc burned up when I switched it on with the reedy motor and sport pack. The second burned while driving, reedy motor and reedy pack being used. I am new to electic so any help is appreciated.

JuJuB

My Feedback: (1)

bigtrucklst,
Something must hav shorted out cuz mod motors and the XPS can take up to 7 cells (8.4 volts). I don't know if this will work, but try some 16 gauge or 18 gauge wire and some Deans ultra conectors- get female ones on ur batteries and motor, male one on ur charger and ESC [ just if you wanted to know (if u need pics on how this would look just tell me)].

U also might want to try to find some other wires/ conectors that won't short out.

Big-Kid

JuJuB, the diff will not take any oil, it's not sealed(unless you are able to mod this). The black grease from AE is pretty good.

I like the Futaba MC230 I have in my M18. If my stocker goes kaput, then i'm switching to the MC230. I think retail might be in the $60 range, so Ebay will be a little less.

For on-road, you're going to want something a little stiffer, like the 40 oil or 50 or 60 wt.'s. Find some stiff springs and try them up front. Drop the ride height and think about some foams.

BigTruck, AE has been pretty good about replacement parts. You'll have to cover shipping, but they may send you a new ESC. Give them a call and see what they say. They may also have a few suggestions for you. Are the wires crossed? How hot has the motor and ESC gotten? Or how long were you runnung it before it went up in smoke?[8D]

JuJuB

My Feedback: (1)

I got a 1 more question:

How good is the K3 motor? I've heard that it's very nice.

Big-Kid

I hear the K3 is pretty good. A freind of mine just tested his out and he liked it with some Lipoly's. I haven't tried his out yet, so I can't compare it directly.

I do think the Rapotr is a bit faster, all though my opinion maybe a little biased[8D]

mike445

i have an rc18t and it broke and wasent working for awhile (at least a 2 years) and when i decided to fix it and all i needed where pins and dogbones it wasnt working like i remembered it to. when you pull the throdle you have to start out slow to get it to budge or somtimes "hop" a couple inches. im a begginer and im not sure whats wrong. i would think its somthing with the transmitter or receiver but i have no clue. any suggestions?? thanks.