fugadude

So far it seems to me that one of the most performance critical elements of RC18's are the differentials. This is especially true when running brushless, but I can imagine it impacts performance to a very noticable degree regardless of what kind of rig you run. This to me is the most frustrating part of the car. I can dial everything else in fairly easily, but these differentials are giving me a total headache.

Types of Differentials:

Aluminum Ball GPM/w Associated Gear/Balls
Aluminum Ball GPM/w Associated Gear/Carbide Balls
MIP Super Differentials
Standard Associated Differentials

Great Tips I've Recieved So Far:

Be sure to use grease to hold balls in place when assembling differentials. Not doing so will mean you'll be scouring the floor for hours looking for those stupid little balls of which Team Associated only provides you exactly enough to get the job done (cheaptards!).

Not So Great, But Good Tips I've Recieved So Far

Do not overtighten your differential, I don't know what the hell this means, but it's a good tip I'm sure.

Anyone care to lay down the law on differenitals?

Mdubz

When you put it back together, don't tighten it all the way and leave it. Tighten it all the way and un-tighten it a little. Another tip, use some loctite on the diff screw so it doesn't come loose.

pbmax

I'm running aluminum 3racing ball diffs front and back, nice and tight, with pretty good results so far - at least 6 full 2200mah 2s lipo packs or so. Gotta use sleeves on the outdrives to keep them from deforming, of course.

I did run mip superdiffs, but the @#$(%$^ screws were too long and I had to cut screws or file down dogbones / cvds. Additionally, they wouldn't stay tight no matter what I did. Spendy and a very poor design... no more MIP for me.

I say don't UNDER-tighten, especially if you're bashing. If you do, you'll smoke them with brushless in no time flat. A tighter ball diff will last much longer than a looser ball diffs.

radarwill

This diff setup was not engineered to handle the brushless power. Your only hope for longevity is maintenance. Every third hard run you should take them both out, clean and lubricate. Top fuel dragsters go bumper to bumper every run cause they push everything to the max; your 18 is being pushed to it's max. Good luck.

pbmax

Haha, too true [8D]

mikemcnair

MIP superdiffs and MIP CVD's, and no worries on mine withe the mamba 8000.

also, tightes the dif screw all the way down, and back it off one quarter of a turn. :thumbup:

case2173

brushless? USE SHIMS!!! you want a good mesh with no play.

Dusklurk

a good tip for anyone really put a nice white towel down on your work bench befor you work on anything the balls from your diff will never hit the floor again

pbmax

Yeah, but what fun is that? I'd miss my quality time with my face on the carpet and bright LED flashlight shining everywhere looking for that tiny flash of steel.

MicroMotorSport

make the front diff tight, and the rear diff looser, so that the wheels spin in opposite driections easier than the fronts. this will prevent your car form spinning out in the turns and will also prevent wheelies/flip overs. you could also try the MIP one way/ solid axle for the 18r on the front rather than a ball diff.

Mz

hmmm, to you detta guys- since the detta diffs seem to be so good, is there anyway to mod them to fir in the rc18?

silverj

I have the mamba 8000, and a three cell lipo, and I have my diffs (stock) 1/4 turn out from tight, and two extra shims front and back! I never have problems with them and they have survived jumping, crashing, full speed and so on. I do agree however they need to be dissassembled and inspected-lubed frequently!!!!

nik77356

i want gear diffs!!! that may be because i mostly race 1/8 scale but still im tired of dealing with ball diffs!!

MicroMotorSport

try the m18 stock gear diffs. supposedly they fit with some shimming.

nik77356

o i sure hope so. i cant stand ball diffs