Mini quake
#1

Thread Starter

Guys I know there's an offical Mini Quack thread but it 50 pages and 1200 posts long. I'm very experienced with brushless set ups for 1/10 scale cars and trucks but i've never done a mini brushless. I just won a Mini Quake Se off ebay. It looks to be brand new. i want to do a brushless set up but and I've been thinking of of going with the mamba system but i've heard that the small MM motors might not be the best option for that quake. Can someone point me in the right direction? Here's a second question. I've seeen 540 motor conversions for the qauke as well. Would the truck live if I put something like a mm4600 or a traxxas V system in it?
#2
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also me
im looking for a brushless system for my mini quake and im not sure which one will work the best
and my Mini Quack rtr not SE
and everything stock


do i have to change the stock gear and Differential to handle brushless
i need help
im looking for a brushless system for my mini quake and im not sure which one will work the best
and my Mini Quack rtr not SE
and everything stock
do i have to change the stock gear and Differential to handle brushless
i need help
#4

Thread Starter

I was thinking the same thing about the ball diffs. I've never really cared for them in any of my cars. But I couldn't pass up and SE that had only been run one complete with esc and controller for $50
#6
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I suggest you go with the Permax 400/4d. They are very powerful motors. You would need a 3.2 spur gear set ($10 on tower hobbies), and the Mamba 25A esc works well with them.
#7

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ORIGINAL: dacaur
actualy the gear diffs will handle the power of brushless as good or better than the ball diffs, and they are way less maintenance
actualy the gear diffs will handle the power of brushless as good or better than the ball diffs, and they are way less maintenance
People buy brushless to just have brushless. I don't get it. The MQ when setup right with a brushed VR3 hauls. Mine pops wheelies and goes plenty fast for a 1/18 scale with decent run times. What is the purpose of putting in a brushless setup and lipos to make a MQ go 40MPH and shred the drivetrain? Not to mention paying 3x what the cost of the MQ was in the first place.
Just enjoy it and have fun with it as it was intended. If you want to go fast then go brushless in a 1/10 scale that has a much better drivetrain and more stability at higher speeds or get a nitro car.
#8

Thread Starter

Outrageousmagic - do you have first hand experience with the 400/4d? I'm looking for something that doesn't studder or cog to badly as I will sometimes use this indoors to run around and over stuff in the house.
#9

if you go BL you will def need ball difs. the grear difs will hold up for only so long
i run a GH4700 with Mamba23 ESC and 8 cell IB1400 pack.
No cogging, and she is fast as hell
i run a GH4700 with Mamba23 ESC and 8 cell IB1400 pack.
No cogging, and she is fast as hell
#10
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ORIGINAL: Dale Gribble
I have to disagree with you 100%. I have toasted way too many gear diffs in my day (spiders in particular), and I am still on my original two ball diffs. Not to mention the ball diffs come with the aluminum outdrives. The stock plastic outdrives are 100% non-functional. That is with the stock engine/ESC.
People buy brushless to just have brushless. I don't get it. The MQ when setup right with a brushed VR3 hauls. Mine pops wheelies and goes plenty fast for a 1/18 scale with decent run times. What is the purpose of putting in a brushless setup and lipos to make a MQ go 40MPH and shred the drivetrain? Not to mention paying 3x what the cost of the MQ was in the first place.
Just enjoy it and have fun with it as it was intended. If you want to go fast then go brushless in a 1/10 scale that has a much better drivetrain and more stability at higher speeds or get a nitro car.
ORIGINAL: dacaur
actualy the gear diffs will handle the power of brushless as good or better than the ball diffs, and they are way less maintenance
actualy the gear diffs will handle the power of brushless as good or better than the ball diffs, and they are way less maintenance
People buy brushless to just have brushless. I don't get it. The MQ when setup right with a brushed VR3 hauls. Mine pops wheelies and goes plenty fast for a 1/18 scale with decent run times. What is the purpose of putting in a brushless setup and lipos to make a MQ go 40MPH and shred the drivetrain? Not to mention paying 3x what the cost of the MQ was in the first place.
Just enjoy it and have fun with it as it was intended. If you want to go fast then go brushless in a 1/10 scale that has a much better drivetrain and more stability at higher speeds or get a nitro car.
#11

Thread Starter

Thanks guys i'm going with the GH4700. I did some research on that motor and it sounds like alot of people are running them in their quakes and are very happy. I just looked at the the truck on traxxas's site and it said the truck comes with a 6cell battery. Do these little trucks use the normal size sub C cells? I can't believe they do but it would be nice. a 380 sized brushless would run forever on a 2S 5000. but more likely they run require smaller packs. Sticking with my lipo's i'm thinking of going with this 2S 2100. Anyone know if it'll fit?
http://www.maxamps.com/proddetail.ph...74-Pack&cat=12
http://www.maxamps.com/proddetail.ph...74-Pack&cat=12
#12
Senior Member

permax 400 4d with 3.2mm shaft and mamba25 or quark 33 pro car
thats what i would get
what i have in my detta st and somepeople recomend in a mq
ammo 28-35 5100 and mamba 25 with castler link
thats what i would get
what i have in my detta st and somepeople recomend in a mq
ammo 28-35 5100 and mamba 25 with castler link
#13

thes trucks run on 2/3 a i think
oh yeah and the GH4700 has the same size shaft as stock, so u dont have to go searching for Pinions or mod the spur gear
oh yeah and the GH4700 has the same size shaft as stock, so u dont have to go searching for Pinions or mod the spur gear
#14

I'm with Dale on this one. Ball diffs for brushless.
I'm not crazy about high powered motors in the MQ. I've tried the permax 400/4d in mine, and promptlytook it out. way too much for this truck. I am using a "cool red" 3600 in mine now... much more controlable.
I'm not crazy about high powered motors in the MQ. I've tried the permax 400/4d in mine, and promptlytook it out. way too much for this truck. I am using a "cool red" 3600 in mine now... much more controlable.
#15

ORIGINAL: john01374
Thanks guys i'm going with the GH4700. I did some research on that motor and it sounds like alot of people are running them in their quakes and are very happy. I just looked at the the truck on traxxas's site and it said the truck comes with a 6cell battery. Do these little trucks use the normal size sub C cells? I can't believe they do but it would be nice. a 380 sized brushless would run forever on a 2S 5000. but more likely they run require smaller packs. Sticking with my lipo's i'm thinking of going with this 2S 2100. Anyone know if it'll fit?
http://www.maxamps.com/proddetail.ph...74-Pack&cat=12
Thanks guys i'm going with the GH4700. I did some research on that motor and it sounds like alot of people are running them in their quakes and are very happy. I just looked at the the truck on traxxas's site and it said the truck comes with a 6cell battery. Do these little trucks use the normal size sub C cells? I can't believe they do but it would be nice. a 380 sized brushless would run forever on a 2S 5000. but more likely they run require smaller packs. Sticking with my lipo's i'm thinking of going with this 2S 2100. Anyone know if it'll fit?
http://www.maxamps.com/proddetail.ph...74-Pack&cat=12
#16

Thread Starter

Well guys I got my min quake yesterday and looks good but turns out it is not the SE (does have SE body and wheels but that's about it) as advertised but it did come complete with all the RTR radio equiptment etc. The looks and run ok but I do have one problem. The radio range is only about 20 ft out doors and much less in doors. I've already done all the normal checks. New batteries in TX, rerouted all the wires etc. I even went so far as to shorten all the wires so they are only as long as necessary to plug in and nothing wraps around the center brace any longer. I've heard that the ESC is the problem but that doesn't really make sense to me. It seems like a receiver issue but I don't want to throw parts at it.
#17

had my first real breakage with my MQ the other day.... I was at a skate park and ran off the edge to jump out the other side, but hit a stair with the front wheel on the way down, broke the knuckle and upper suspension arm.... had free replacements within 5 days... gotta love it!