Metallover

I think there are too many posts by noobs that say: "What will break first on my Mini T?" or How do I make my RC18T faster?"
This thread is to describe the strengths and weaknesses of the popular minis out there in detail and to help people choose the right one. If you havent read Inverted's "So you want a mini..." I suggest you read that first. There is a lot of helpful information on there.

First will be the electric minis in alphabetical order by brand.
Then the nitro minis.
Then some battery and electric motor info.

This is a work in progress, so if there is anything you would like to add, pm me or post it and I will add it in. There will be a lot of links, and I am sure some will stop working in the future, so if you find a broken link; pm, post, or just do a google/thread search.

Electric

[link=http://www.teamassociated.com/]Associated[/link]
-RC18 series - [link=http://www.teamassociated.com/ae/18r/18r_home.htm]RC18R[/link], [link=http://www.teamassociated.com/ae/18b/18b_home.htm]RC18B[/link], [link=http://www.teamassociated.com/ae/18t/18t_home.htm]RC18T[/link], [link=http://www.teamassociated.com/ae/18mt/18mt_home.htm]RC18MT[/link]
AKA [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4947786/tm.htm]Propulse[/link], [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5074066/anchors_5076230/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#5076230]Mini Rodeo[/link]
1/18th, 4wd, $155-180 RTR, $130-150 Kit
Very popular, huge aftermarket support. Upgrades: Hitec hs65 servo + saver +metal c spring and a draglink is simple and helps with most slop. MIP diffs properly shimmed before they start slipping will protect your gears. CVD's in front will stop the dogbones front slipping out and causing the *clack* sound when turning under power. CVD's in the rear really arent as necessary, though i have twisted apart a stock dogbone. the biggest problem is losing them when something breaks which is why I use cvd's in the rear. MIP outdrives will last under brushless power, I melted the stock plastic. - The knockoffs have very bad electronics.

[link=http://www.cenracing.com/]CEN[/link]
-[link=http://www.cenracing.com/censports/me16mt.html]ME16MT[/link], [link=http://www.cenracing.com/censports/me16ry.html]ME16RY[/link], [link=http://www.cenracing.com/censports/me16tc.html]ME16TC[/link]
1/16th, 4wd, $130-170 RTR
Uses 540 motor and 1/10 scale battery with SC sized cells. Another one of the faster RTR minis. High torque with 540 sized motor and standard size steering servo. There is a popular nitro version too. Very durable.

[link=http://www.duratrax.com/]Duratrax[/link]
-[link=http://www.duratrax.com/cars/dtxd13-vendetta/dtxd13-index.html]Vendetta[/link]/[link=http://www.duratrax.com/cars/dtxd14-vendetta-st/dtxd14-index.html]Vendetta ST[/link]
AKA [link=http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-anderson-mb4kit-wmotor-p-16222.html?cPath=420_1179&sID=9d15903978911ebd9d5c80f3a1b18224]Anderson MB4 (kit)[/link], [link=http://www.lrp.cc/de/produkte/rc-cars/]Shark 18[/link],
1/18th, 4wd, $160 RTR, $100 kit
Great racing potential with standard size steering servo. Very fast (for a RTR) out of box. It's biggest weakness is the axles. Atomic should work, but you have a high powered brushless system you will want the Duratrax steel CVDs. If you have a brushless system, consider the Duratrax ball diffs. There are steel diff gears coming out for thetoyz mid August, or sooner if GPM gets theirs done, so keep your eyes open.

-[link=http://www.duratrax.com/cars/dtxd18-cliff_climber/index.html]Cliff Climber[/link]
1/18th, 4wd, $240 RTR, $140 Kit
The first 4wd and four wheel steer mini rock crawler. Made by duratrax, which is a great, American-based company which always seems to satisfy their customers.

-[link=http://www.duratrax.com/cars/dtxd11.html]Mini Quake[/link]/[link=http://www.duratrax.com/cars/dtxc0011-miniquakese/dtxc0011-index.html]Mini Quake SE (kit)[/link]
AKA [link=http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-anderson-mrx4pro-monster-truck-p-13302.html?cPath=420_1179#MRX-4/PRO) MRX4 Monster Truck Pro Kit&cPath=420_1179]Anderson MRX4[/link]
1/18th, 4wd, $160 RTR, $125-185 kit
Ball diffs, CVDs, and better electronics if you get the RTR. The mini quake SE kit has all of those. Most people recommend getting the Mini Quake SE if you can still find it. Metal outdrives might be needed.
"They are VERY VERY fun trucks. I have had an RC-18MT, Mini T, Mini LST and the Mini Quake , and this is the one I decided to keep based on quite a few factors."

[link=http://www.hpiracing.com/home/]HPI[/link]
-[link=http://www.hpiracing.com/kitinfo/638/]Micro RS4[/link], [link=http://www.hpiracing.com/kitinfo/619/]kit[/link], [link=http://www.hpiracing.com/kitinfo/636/]Drift[/link], [link=http://www.hpiracing.com/kitinfo/617/]Drift Kit[/link]
1/18th, 4wd, $160-300 RTR, $75-130 Kit
There is a 540 motor conversion out for it. This in one of the most popular 1/18th on road car. It is also one of the only belt driven. There is a drift version if you are into that.

[link=http://www.hotbodiesonline.com/index2.php]Hot Bodies[/link]
-[link=http://www.hotbodiesonline.com/kit.php?partNo=hb51500〈=en]Minizilla[/link]
1/18th, 4wd, $180-200 RTR
Slow out of box. Modeled after sister company HPI's Savage. Has a TVP type chassis. Battery in back for good wheelies, but that is about it. Discontinued.

[link=http://www.kyosho.com/eng/]Kyosho[/link]
[link=http://www.kyosho.com/eng/products/rc/series.html?series_group_id=100016]Mini Inferno Half8[/link]
1/16th, 4wd, $100-190 RTR
Heard the center diff is a weak spot. There is also a more popular nitro version.

[link=http://www.kyosho.com/eng/event/presently/shizuoka_hobby/car.html]Mini Z [/link]
1/24th, 2-4wd, ~$120-160
Great fun to race indoors. You can really get into it and buy tons of track equipment etc. Would be great to drive on a hardwood floor in the winter, or summer for that matter.

[link=http://www.kyosho.com/eng/products/rc/lineup.html?series_index_id=100158&series_group_id=100067&s1=&s2=&s3=&s4=&s5=&s6=&s7=&s8=]Dnano[/link], [link=http://www.redrc.net/2008/03/kyosho-dnano-fx-101-143rd-scale/]More info[/link], [link=http://www.dnano.jp/]Just for laughs[/link], [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_7048203/tm.htm]Thread[/link]
1/43rd, 2wd, [link=http://www.dnanoshop.com/]$240 + $155[/link]
Has an optional gyro for stability. These things are really cool, but pricey. Around half the size of a Mini Z.

[link=http://www.losi.com/]Losi[/link]
-[link=http://www.losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSB0230]Micro T[/link]- [link=http://www.losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSB0232]Micro Baja[/link], [link=http://www.losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSB0235]Micro Raminator[/link], [link=http://www.losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSB0233]Micro Desert Truck[/link]
1/36th, 2wd, $80-90 RTR
These cars are a lot of fun. To make it faster, I recommend the Losi lipo and Atomic BB motor. Speeds comparable to the 8750kv xcelorin brushless system. If you go brushless, keep in mind you need a new servo and receiver. First thing to break will undoubtedly be the steering links. I think Hotracing makes a fix for that. Thetoyz has a lot of Micro T parts.

-[link=http://www.losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSB0200]Mini T[/link]/[link=http://www.losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSB0203]Mini Baja[/link]
1/18th, 2wd, $100-150 RTR, $130 kit
Quite possibly the most poupular mini of all time. Gigantic aftermarket support. A very solid, time tested package. Mini Baja has better electronics with a faster motor and separate esc and rx, unlike the mini T. Mini Baja also comes with a battery. If you want the look of a mini T, but the performance of a Mini Baja, get the Mini Baja and a Mini T body.

-[link=http://www.losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSB0205]Mini Slider[/link]/[link=http://www.losi.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=LOSB0221]Mini Late Model[/link]
1/18th, 2wd, $180-190 RTR
Very popular for racing. There are lots of stock classes. Very similar to Mini T, but has an extended chassis that allows regular mini battery configurations, oil shocks, and different body and wheels. It has all same electronics as Mini Baja except for a Spektrum 2.4 ghz radio, which is better.

-[link=http://www.losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSB0215]Mini LST[/link] - [link=http://www.losi.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=LOSB0217]Mini-LST2[/link], [link=http://www.losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSB0219]1/18 Raminator[/link], [link=http://www.losi.com/Products/Features.aspx?ProdId=LOSB0220]1/18 Rammunition[/link], [link=http://www.losi.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=LOSB0218]Mini Monster Baja[/link]
1/18th, 4wd, $100-240 RTR
These are one of the faster RTR minis out, unless you get the single motored Raminator or Rammunition. Those two are more for the looks, then the Mini LST, LST2, then the Mini Monster Baja has the best out of the box performance. The greatest downfall to these cars are the drivetrain. The Mini LST2 and Mini Monster Baja come with stronger metal diffs, but not the all metal viscous diffs. Other weaknesses are the chrome mini-magneto wheels and, for some people, the steering servos.

-[link=http://www.losi.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=LOSB0222]Mini Rock Crawler[/link]
1/18th, 4wd, $240 RTR
Its a rock crawler. Four wheel steering capable and rock crawling designed chassis all around. Comes RTR with two wheel steering.

[link=http://www.sportwerksrc.com/]Sportwerks[/link]
[link=http://www.sportwerksrc.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=SWK1450]Recoil[/link], [link=http://www.sportwerksrc.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=SWK1455]Tailwhip[/link], [link=http://www.sportwerksrc.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=SWK1460]Recoil Pro (kit)[/link]
1/14th, 4wd, $160 RTR, $200 kit
I have the kit version, and I swear it is indestructable. Drivetrain and chassis. I have a Neu 1105/2y in it. Foam tires are needed for racing or even if you just have a brushless system. Popular for racing. Check if your lhs or track has a class for it.

[link=http://www.teamtrinity.com/]Trinity[/link]
-[link=http://www.teamtrinity.com/shop/item.asp?item=TRI90015]Now[/link]
1/16th, 4wd, $190-250 RTR
This is the result of a company trying to upgrade a vehicle their way before you buy it. Comes stock with a brushless system with a Mamba 25 esc, an aluminum chassis, sway bars, and a 1320mah 3 cell lipo. Could use a change from the stock Tamiya connectors to deans. Overall build quality isn't too great. There are a few small things people find wrong, but they may be isolated. No users manual.

[link=http://www.b2brchobby.com/rc-cars.htm]Wind Hobby[/link]
-[link=http://www.b2brchobby.com/TPEB-1605B.htm]Ferret[/link]
1/16th, 4wd, $???
Standard size servo. Not much parts support. There is a pretty big thread about it.

[link=http://www.teamxray.com]Xray[/link]
-[link=http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/products/proddesc.php?prod_id=686]M18[/link], [link=http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/products/proddesc.php?prod_id=1787]M18 w/ Power Pack[/link], [link=http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/products/proddesc.php?prod_id=1912]M18 Pro[/link], [link=http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/products/proddesc.php?prod_id=1409]M18T[/link], [link=http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/products/proddesc.php?prod_id=2514]M18T Pro[/link], [link=http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/products/proddesc.php?prod_id=1410]M18T RTR[/link], [link=http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/products/proddesc.php?prod_id=1501]M18MT[/link], [link=http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/products/proddesc.php?prod_id=1502]M18MT w/ power pack[/link]
1/18th, 4wd, $190-220 RTR, $115-215 Kit
Xray offers pro kit versions which I have heard are VERY durable and race worthy. Similar to RC18 series. Go for X-ray to get best performance and durability. There is also a nitro version of the all the types: car, truck, and monster truck. Kits with power pack need a radio to make them rtr.

[link=http://www.globalhobby.com/public/xtm.asp]XTM[/link]
-[link=http://www.globalhobby.com/public/xtm/products/CARAAF01.asp]Rage[/link]
1/18th, 4wd, $130 RTR
Very strong stock drivetrain. Quality electronics can handle 3s lipo stock. This is a great vehicle.

Nitro

[link=http://www.cenracing.com/]CEN[/link]
-[link=http://www.cenracing.com/area51/51_mini_g.html]MG16-MT[/link], [link=http://www.cenracing.com/area51/mg16ry.html]MG16-RY[/link], [link=http://www.cenracing.com/area51/mg16tc.html]MG16-TC[/link]
1/16th, 4wd, $190-200 RTR
2.5 (.15) engine give tons of power. It is a good truck, even better when you consider the price.

[link=http://www.kyosho.com/eng/]Kyosho[/link]
-[link=http://www.kyosho.com/eng/products/rc/series.html?series_group_id=100054]Half8 09[/link], [link=http://www.kyosho.com/eng/products/rc/series.html?series_group_id=100058]Half8 09 ST[/link]
1/16th, 4wd, $200-415 RTR
"Honestly, I have never heard of ANY weak spot... these are extremely high-quality vehicles." I have seen the rear hubs can break. It is a better deal to get the ST and buy a buggy body for it.

[link=http://www.sportwerksrc.com/]Sportwerks[/link]
-[link=http://www.sportwerksrc.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=SWK1400]Chaos[/link]
1/16th, 4wd, $80-120 RTR
Well, if you like really ugly bodies, this is the car for you. The diffs could use some help, and the screw on fuel tank cap could be changed. The steering could too. This a very inexpensive nitro mini. Comes with .5 engine.

[link=http://www.teamtrinity.com/]Trinity[/link]
-[link=http://www.teamtrinity.com/shop/item.asp?item=TRI90012]Next[/link]
1/16th, 4wd, $215-285 RTR
.95 cu. in. nitro engine. Probably has the same problems/features as the electric one.

[link=http://www.teamxray.com]Xray[/link]
-[link=http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/products/proddesc.php?prod_id=1610]NT18[/link], [link=http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/products/proddesc.php?prod_id=1665]NT18 w/ electric pack[/link], [link=http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/products/proddesc.php?prod_id=1667]NT18T[/link], [link=http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/products/proddesc.php?prod_id=1668]NT18T w/ Electric pack[/link], [link=http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/products/proddesc.php?prod_id=1891]NT18T RTR[/link], [link=http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/products/proddesc.php?prod_id=1892]NT18MT RTR[/link]
1/18th, 4wd, $210-$260
Kits with electric pack need radio and I think a starter box by what I understand.


Batteries

Don't go cheap on batteries! Batteries are what makes and electric mini, especially a brushless one. For NiMh, IB and EP cells are what you should be looking for. People have had good luck with Elite 1500 cells too. SMC makes some really nice NiMH batteries. NiMH stands for Nickel Metal-Hydrate and NiCd or NiCad stands for Nickel Cadnium. These cells hace higer charge and discharge ratings, but usually less capacity then NiMH. These are not usually used in minis. The usual cell size for minis is 2/3a if you are making custom packs.

LiPo, or Lithium Polymer, are much better performing and can have higher capacity for the size then NiMh. A good mini lipo should cost 30-50 dollars. The [link=http://pfmdistribution.com/secure/shop/listcats.asp]Apogee[/link] 1500mah batteries are one of the best brands. It is Lithium Magnesium and is said to be safer than lipo; can be charged at 2C. The best, imo, is the Flightpower Evolight V2 1600mah 2s. It has very high power and is the best, and sometimes only, choice for high end brushless systems. When choosing a LiPo battery, don't just get the one with the highest capacity. Like said above, don't go cheap on batteries.

The "C" rating stands for capacity. To find the max discharge with a lipo battery, multiply the C rating by the actual capacity divided by 1,000. I.E. a 1200mah 20c battery will have a 24 amp capacity because 1.2 x 20 = 24a. the equation would be 20C=24,000 24,000/1000=24a. I personally divide the capacity by 1000, then I multiply it by the C rating.

Don't go cheap on batteries, but also know when you could get a better deal. I think that some losi batteries are expensive, especially the NiMh ones. I have never tried them, but if they were that good there would be more people using them.

Motors

There is only one question: brushless or brushed. It all depends on your performance needs and racing class. Lots of racing classes only allow certain turn brushed motors. There are maintainable brushed motors out there, I know there is one made by Orion. I'm not too big on brushed motors or escs though. Brushless is my thing.

When buying a brushless esc, don't just get the cheapest. The Castle Creations Mamba Sidewinder and Micro Pro are pretty much identical, although the Micro pro has a case and heatsink. They both have the castle link, which is a major selling point. Another esc I reccomend is the Quark 33a. If you go with one of the motors I will list below, you may want to get something like the 1/10th scale CC Sidewinder. The 1/18th sidewinder, Micro Pro, or Quark may hold up, but if they get really hot I would recommend the Sidewinder or Even the mamba max if you already have one.

The [link=http://www.teamnovak.com/products/brushless/mongoose_micro/index.html?aid=449]Novak Mongoose[/link] is coming out soon. It should be pretty fast. Some other people and I noticed the watt rating, which is basically the motor's power, is pretty low. We'll have to see how they perform when they come out. These are sensored motors, which a virtually cog-free. Most of the newer sensorless motors don't cog much anyway. $150 for the combo.

If you want an amazing brushless motor for racing or for bashing, look into these. The following are all 28mm motors, which is a little bigger in diameter then the stock brushed motor. Most of these will get speeds higher than mamba sized motors on 3s while running 2s lipo. Measure before you get one. They will fit into most vehicles, although with some you may need to modify the motor mount or something like that. These three motors are the ones that may require a 1/10th esc and some high discharge capable lipos, like the flightpower.

-Ammo 28mm [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLWY1&P=7]3900kv[/link] and [link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLWY2&P=7]5100kv[/link]. $55

-[link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNGX1&P=7]Permax 400/4D[/link]. These are not made anymore, and very hard to find. Try to get a 3.2mm shaft if you have a choice. ~$60-80

-[link=http://www.castlecreations.com/products/neumotors/nm1100.html]Neu[/link] 1105 and 1107. These are the best brushless motors by far. I own two Neu motors, 1105/2y (5100kv) and 1107/1.5d (8500kv). They are super high torque motors. They will tear the gonads out of any stock drivetrain. They are vary hard on batteries. You can get Neu motors at castlecreations.com for $103-125

-[link=http://www.medusaproducts.com/motors/028-V2.htm]Medusa[/link] MR-028-032-4200V2. I don't know anyone who has tried one yet, but there was a [link=http://www.flyupyours.com/heli/dpr/neuvsmedusa4s.htm]test[/link] done with helis. A similar kv medusa and Neu were put in identical helis. The experienced pilot said he wouldn't know if someone switched the motors from one heli to the other. He owns the one with the Neu. These are a less expensive alternative to a Neu. They should have similar performance. If you can afford it, I would go with the tested Neu. $70


I know there is a lot of missing information. Please post or pm me any information you know that is not already up there. I hope this helps some people decide what to buy. Thanks for looking.

jaejw1

you left out the xtm rage.... probably the strongest drivetrain... and best stock electronics of all.. stock system can handle a 3s lipo..

musclecar201

You forgot megapro/propulse, Knock off rc18t and b, electronics aren't as good. You also forgot the trinity now brushless, but I can't help you with that....

madmax22

and the associated RC18B

musclecar201

He just post rc18 series because they are pretty close to being the same.

Metallover

I think I edited in most of those things. I still need to finish listing vendetta knock-offs, finish up with the nitros, and some small things here and there. Most of them could use some owners' experiences. Added trinity next too.

dubluv

very nice post....

Anomie

Very nice guide! I've made this a sticky for the time being, but I can't say how long it will stay there. The mini guide that was posted by Inverted is still valid, albeit a bit dated.

Great job [sm=thumbs_up.gif]

Pontiac K

The slider has, as you said an extended chassis and a different body, but it has 2.4 GHz DSM. It also has oil shocks, the same motor and ESC as the Mini-Baja(seperate from the receiver), different wheels tires and takes a different battery configuration. The Mini-Baja also has seperate ESC and Receiver. This is a really good list, it should help a lot of people.

Pontiac K

revo_sbs

My Feedback: (23)

Great job. I really hope people look at this before they consider buying a mini.

Deftones123

how is a mamba motor a budget motor, I know tons of people that race with them

Deftones123

I also heard neu motors arent thats great either

Metallover

Neu motors are probably the best thing you could get. The only rivals I can think of are Plettenberg, Lehner, and maybe Kotronik. (I'm sure I spelled those wrong. Here is a video of a Neu in a Vendetta ST, and this isn't by far the fastet/biggest Neu motor you can get.
I think I should mention this is on 2s.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0iZuUoax6O8&feature=user

I don't know why, but that reminds me to add medusa to the list.

Mamba motors are pretty fast, don't get me wrong, but they have almost no torque. They are very popular because the Mamba 25 combo was, and is one of the cheapest brushless systems you can get. It was one of the first mass-market brushless systems too. Until about a year ago they practically had a monopoly with 1/18th scale brushless systems. These motors are very fast, but you can't gear them very high at all. Mamba motors really aren't that good once you think about it.

I changed a lot of the motor information too. Shorter and sweeter now.

Deftones123

I guess that is your opinion really, only reason you like the neu motor better is beacuse a mamba size can isnt a favorite in vendettas because they tend not to much to great with them, the motors you mention about being better for brushless are motors used in airplanes, motors that tend to have higher speed ratio for props thats why they may tend to be better, they werent designed for car use, im not trying to state a arguement but there is no solid facts here that they might be better besides better torque/low end, which isnt always a good, think of it this way, a 5.0 mustang car stock isnt all that fast, good torque low end but on a 1/4 mile track only does about 87 mph, a early 90's dodge dakota pickup with no low end and torque will beat it on a 1/4 mile.

I do give you props, there is alot of great information here, just dont agree with you on some of the motor stuff

Metallover

I can see your point. I guess I can say I am highly biased against mamba sized motors. But with the Neu motors, they have giant torque AND huge top end. In that vid the vendetta must have been going 50 miles an hour when it wheelied and he couldn't even get it to full throtte most of the time. I have an 8500kv Neu motor and the torque is unbelievable. I was 30 seconds into the first run when the internal gears in the rear diff broke. I got it up to 2/3 throttle at probably 50mph when it wheelied and cartwheeled like 20 times into this guys lawn. I'm not trying to argue either... I'll change the mamba motor info in the first post. I can see the mamba motors being good for 1/18th onroad racing. But don't get me wrong I am still biased against them.

I guess I already took out most of the mamba stuff. I do give them props though. They did start mainstream brushless in cars.

Deftones123

its all good, your opinion is your opinion everyone is entitled to one lol people like different things

Gex_61

This is an alright post. This mini forum is full of information. It's near impossible to fit it all into one guide. I have thought about doing something like this. Comparing and contrasting mini's in extreme detail. I think that Inverted's sticky should be updated or removed. He has a lot of useful info, and I like how he has links to all of the cars. Both of these guides should be rolled into one.

I think a good guide should separate all of the cars by their stock (rtr) form, and there full potential form.

For example: The mini-t is an awesome car. I love everything about it; although mine is extremely upgraded. I'm sure anyone who is happy with the mini-t has upgraded electronics, and weak parts. The stock mini-t isn't very impressive. My dad sold his because it frustrated him so much. I almost did; my mini-t had a lot of shelf time. Since mini choices were limited at the time, but I liked minis, I decided to keep it. After upgrading it, it's my favorite car. I have two of them; three at one point.

Same thing with the Vendetta; I haven't upgraded my Vendetta. Just by driving it around in stock form, I have made some assumptions about it. It is a very heavy car, compared to the mini-t and rc18. I think it is the most suited mini for racing on 1/10 tracks. I am very disappointed with it in stock form. It has a large motor, and my battery seems to only last 1/3 as long as it does in the lighter minis. I would want a decent brushless and maybe a lipo battery just to give the car a better run time.

You don't even want to get me started on the mini-slider or mini-late model. I think you should remove the part where it says "great for racing" and replace it with "It's a novelty look-alike car." It can be made into a racer with lots of aftermarket support, but Losi made no attempt to make it race ready out of the box. What they did is slap a longer chassis on and added some more cheaply made parts, so they could make some money.

Metallover

Gex, I see your point. I will rephrase some of it. I.E>-Vendetta - "Great for racing w/ standard servo" to "Great potential for racing with standard servo". I'll try to get some links up there. I've tried before, but not very hard. I'll try again.

With the mini slider and late model, there are so many stock classes for it around here. I'll put that in instead of "great for racing".

Gex_61

I was editing my post while you posted. I guess what I'm trying to say with the mini-slider is that people who want to go further, or all the way, and compete with the other mini's or even in an open class, should be aware that the car's stock form isn't near what it's potential could be.

Instead of rephrasing some sentences to make them sound more correct, why not go into detail? Anyways, good job, work on this thread a little bit. Maybe contact Inverted and see if he wouldn't mind letting you copy parts of his guide in order to make one really good guide, and of course give him some credit. He hasn't tried to update the other guide in quite a while, and I think it has the potential to be better and more helpful.

Metallover

I'm putting the links in now. I think his thread is still needed because he touches on stuff I couldn't fit in here if I tried. His thread narrows it down and this one helps make the final decision.

Almost done with links. I the one to the XTM rage is broken on the website and I have some nitro links left. I'll try to finish it tomorrow. Tomorrow my baseball team (14-15 yrs) is going gopher hunting at the fields, so that should be fun.

forrest225

The Losi mini crawler does not have four wheel steer only four wheel drive.
Also, Duratrax has a 1:14 scale crawler [link=http://www.duratrax.com/cars/dtxd18-cliff_climber/index.html]here[/link]. It has both four wheel drive, and four wheel steer.



l8ter,


Forrest

Metallover

Thanks for the info. I edited the info above and added the Duratrax. If you see anything else just tell me.

forrest225

No prob, the only reason I noticed is because i had been looking at rock crawlers before i looked at minis and micros.

Acf

Hi im new to rc and im looking into geting a mini monster truck and i want one that can plow thru grass easily so i was looking and i losi mini lst2 and x-ray m18mt rtr so i was wondering wich one goes thru grass easyr? wich one is more durable? and wich one is faster out of the box? can anyone help me?

jaejw1

believe it or not,,,the XTM rage is probablythe fastest and most reliable electronically.... but the parts are brittle,, they claimto have a better formula for the plastic parts,,, but if u get one just know that alloy parts will be out for it soon

also ,, it probably has THE strongest drivetrain of all the minis.... its worth looking into

comes stock with steel cvd's aswell,,, whichcan save u ywhere from 40-60bux.....