dacaur

Yea that's a big thing, slipper tightness. Its seems like it comes a little tight from the factory, but I guess that's preferable than way too loose like my MLST2 was when I got it... I drove it for about 30 seconds when it rolled to a stop and would just make that slipper squeal.... Also consider that its a pretty small number of people having problems comepared to those without issues.....

klaze

I wonder where they have these assembled..

dacaur

Taiwan

shibby1

I though traxxas had the parts made in taiwan but the parts where assembled in Plano Texas.

gettnbetter

The thing will do standing backflips with a 2S lipo. Even rolling backflips from 1/2 speed on a fresh charge.

Diff destruction with a 3S should be expected, it takes a uniquely skilled driver to manage that kind of power.

traxxas4ever

i was just running mine on 3 cells. doing constant backflips and really hitting the gas hard. i stripped out the front diff. do they make a better one yet. this is only my second run with a 3 cell. the diff really is crap. if traxxas says it can take 3 cells than it should be able to take 3 cells no matter how hard you push it. i can understand if it breaks every once in a while but it seems that this is a constant problem. however it was soooo fast. it looked like it was doing close to 45-50. i havent gotten the chance to put the gps on it.

victory-rc

You stripped the front ! ....impressive LOL

Hay your from toms river,I grew up theres a few years,oak glen road. ...ocean county mall,seaside.
Small world

supastar1568

I was able to strip my rear differential with 2S and also the stock battery in series. The standing backflips and frontflips are a killer. Popping driveshafts too.

cubnpede82

okay guys,
no problems here as I am using stock batt, still haven't gotten/made a deans adapter. LHS has a few, PL 2.2 dirt hawgs on 2s and stock tires on 3s has stripped a couple diffs, apparently they have seen some early bulkhead problems and stuff, and some of the first shippments had SHIMMED DIFFS from the FACTORY.... I talked to 2 guys that work there, one just got his but so far it's ok on 3s.... and one has rebuilt his diffs, filled them with diff lube, (they were almost bone dry) and shimmed them, we'll see how that works, he never ran 2s or stock batt and is on 3s2p, running hard at bmx track and such....
Mine, as I said, is good so far. I am going to pull it apart and fill em with 50K and check it all out, shimming if necessary..................
feels like they are just lubed, says factory filled with 30K but I'm not so sure..........
I think 3s is mainly meant for speed, and how much power you can put through 1/16 parts is limited sometimes by size, even for hopups... I think hard bashing on 3s may just be something we have to realize WILL BREAK this lil' guy... 2S2P should be the perfect spot... and with proper shimming and lube we can probably fix this problem, alum bulkheads may be neccessary for extreme abuse...
I am hoping that with thicker fluid I can limit the diff action and keep the inside tires from spinning up and hitting the ground at like 55MPH..... if the truck does ... say... 35mph... with one tire spun up and the diff spinning up, you have some real speed potential on that tire. when it goes from say 65-70 mph to a halt.......okay the driveline pushes the pinion, which makes the ring spin, diff spools the power to one free wheel , spinning it WAY FASTER than the truck is moving, wheel hits an object at speeds and tries to grab and pull truck forward... every bit of freeplay in the diff internal gears and the ring/pinion is then exploited giving all the said gears a good mashing. and then instead of motor pushing drivelines pushing diffs/truck, you have one or two 70mph tires trying to pull the truck untill they slow down and the diff action reduces and once again the motor is trying to push the truck..... Some big forces are involved here, and with a 50mph truck on 3s... LOOK OUT, hence the reasons I'm going to inspect, lube and shimm, and hopefully the thick fluid will help, I know It may kill the cornering a bit but we aren't racing it YET!
Sorry for the book, this LIL GUY gots me all riled up....
by far the best mini, now if we can get a mini LST3 with good sealed diffs and 1/16 single servo chassis, we'll have a good class!!!
my $0.99, 2 cents don't buy crap!

Edit: PLZ rate this post if you thought it was a good read!

MuggyDude

Wild, leave if you don't have anything constructive to say. The merv is a beast, even if the diffs can strip. A lot of time I found that the rear skid is putting too much pressure on the rig gear, and a new one solves the issue.

MINI-RACER

exactly! I haven't had any issues with mine either, and I've had mine for months.
these trucks already come "over-motored" and adding more juice with a 3S just makes things worse and magnifies any so-called weak links.

guys like WILD just aren't happy unless they can do anything they want to an RC without it exploding, whether it be doing burnouts on asphalt or going 100mph or jumping it off the roof of the house, and there hasn't been one made ~ and people like that don't need to be in this hobby, and instead they should find something more to their destructive side like demolition derby or banging their head on the wall

cubnpede82

Hey, found this on another forum about an HPI car.....

Sometimes we need a can of the one, and Traxxas really opened a can of the other with the Mini E-Revo, and hopefully with the soon to be out SLASH 4x4 as well....


As far as over motoring goes, I'm thinking of dropping in the LUDICROUS power of a Losi Frenzy 370 brushed, untill my 3 yr old gets the idea of steering around things down... as of now he mostly lines it up and pegs the trigger and WOW DAD ..... BOOM..... and an evil laugh.......LOL
Anyone see a problem running a 370 brushed off a stock RTR type ESC for 540 motors , like and XL-1 Traxxas ESC...???
Might go for the Insane as the LHS has them on hand , but over 2x the $$$

MuggyDude

I don't see the problem. You could just get a titan 380 motor, it should work with the stock esc. Or you could use training mode. 1/2 throttle!

MINI-RACER

No problem at all. Iuse a Novak XRS (which was designed to handle 1/10th motors) in a couple of my minis with sub-380 motors.

projct

I've stripped two diffs, one while running in sand with dual nimh in series (don't do this! it thermaled too...), and the other running dual nimh and doing backflips for six runs.  It took at least 60 backflips and plenty of spinning around in reverse to get to that point...

dacaur

have you tried just putting it in "training" mode....? Training mode along with the included "speed" pinion should slow it down nicely (still using the stock 6 cell pack) and increase run times considerably as well.... I think an e-revo is a bit heavy for a single 370 motor.... I'm sure it will work, but its not really ideal...

cubnpede82

Okay, I have it on the stock pack, on training mode, and an 18t pinion, so the speed is limited even more.....
still a fast truck and I wish I had wanted this less because I would have gotten the losi MRC instead, but I just couldn't resist.....

The motor I am thinking of putting in here is a Losi Frenzy 370, The mini LST based trucks use two of these , and the Raminator version comes with only one.. A MLST2 is a pretty heavy rig and you can see how just one pushes the Raminator or Ramunition around decent.... it's only 12.99 and I have a line on a pair used for 5-10$

I have the 1/10 VXL set and it will run brushed motors....I haven't seen anything saying that the mini VXL will do this..... but I have some ESC's laying around....... the TRX motor is more $$$ and I'm trying to make it go under 10 MPH or so with gearing for a little torque on a brushed, have you seen the brushed version of this go??? where can I find that............. off to the TUBE...........

Possibly I will order in a brushed version and we can have two...... then 1/10 VXL it later.....

SAVAGEry

Hi!


I know this thread is a bit old, but... anyway

I have a MiniE-revo. I have changed the Diff ringon it *16* times!! and Ihave not even tried LiPo yet. Ihave changed bulkheads, tried to shim with som RC18T shims, buying new dampers, cleaning the bulkheads / diffs.

Anyone know what my Problem is?thanks. Do you know about some stronger diffs for it?
Do anyone have the same prob?

Thanks.

supastar1568

No stronger diffs, but I do suggest getting the center differential. The center diff distributes more of the load to the front, thus decreasing the load on the rear diff. You won't get as many wheelies, but ever since I have done this, I have not stripped a diff. This is running a 3S lipo.

Alex F450

Also inspect theentiredrive train. A cracked bulkhead or broken bearinganywherecould cause you to break diffs.

SAVAGEry

OK thanks!


Going 2 order Center diff

Also, I'm going to change bearings all over... 'cuz I've been driving too much through water and snow

piddlefoot

Run a few 2s and a few 3s, only ever destroyed one rear diff, from wear and tear, after 6 months of high load from 3s lipo there going to wear down the teeth and fail, its just the nature of the metal.

dacaur

Are you running 12 nimh then? In not, you have a major problem... If you are, I would suspect you have the slipper to tight.

BigGrump

The other thing I forgot to mention is to consider a center differential, you know, the one that goes in the transmission. If you do not go to thick with the fluid in the center diff, a whole lot of the stress will be relieved from the rear diff when accelerating, and relief to the front diff when breaking.

Dennis

SAVAGEry

Ok thanks... yes I'm running 12cell NiMh... and Ithink that's the worst thing Ican do. They are heavy, and powerful. LiPo's are more powerful, but much lighter, do u think it could be better with a 3s lipo or should I go for 2s? ( it doesn't rly matter, 'cuz I'm going 2 order from hobbyking.com, and a lipo only cost $10 or something, so Ican buy both of them)
But if Ibuy a Center Diff, which oil / silicone should Iuse in it?