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-   1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars (https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/1-16th-1-18th-mini-micro-rc-cars-235/)
-   -   OFFICIAL MINI E-REVO THREAD!!! (https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/1-16th-1-18th-mini-micro-rc-cars-235/8846989-official-mini-e-revo-thread.html)

PrjctStrtFrce 11-15-2009 08:12 PM

RE: OFFICIAL MINI E-REVO THREAD!!!
 
When driving the truck straight on flat surface, the wheelie bar does its job for the most bar and it does NOT veer off.

xxSLiMxx 11-15-2009 08:21 PM

RE: OFFICIAL MINI E-REVO THREAD!!!
 
If any one is looking for some better springs then the traxxas black ones. Go to Canadian Tire, and go to the door section and find these springs. They are awesome! Just cut them to size and install.

http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/a...Picture153.jpg
http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/a...Picture154.jpg
http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/a...Picture155.jpg

cubnpede82 11-15-2009 10:35 PM

RE: OFFICIAL MINI E-REVO THREAD!!!
 
projct.......... let me clarify......... I bought this cause they're awesome!!! We've had it a day now and it's still not broken... LOL
I wanted this truck and the mini vxl power system because it seems to be the best mini out right now. Looked at the losi MLST2 and Mini-Monster baja, but they break alot and need a decent driver and hop ups. These 1/16 Traxxas trucks seem pretty durable and parts are cheap and easy to get here...
So far I am using the stock spur and an 18T pinion on the stock battery........ it's quick but top speed is limited so maybe my son Axel cant kill us with it. Chopped the lead of the charger and made an adapter for my charger.... and my dog is now terrified to get off the couch....

MORE CLARIFICATION.... my son got this for his 3rd B-day...LOL call me crazy...... I'm going to get a brushed motor and put in one of my stocker 10th scale esc's for now. I can't let him keep dropping my DX3s... LOL almost got him a Losi mini rock crawler but he's smart and that one is slow LOL He watches youtube and once he saw the MER the decision was made, he didn't care how much $$ it is he's 3 LOL He's getting better with the crawler and he's learning to give it PARTIAL throttle and steer. I think when he moved the coffee table with it he decided to listen. He flies my blade mcx with me and thinks he wants a super cub LOL

So, a set of front and rear arms, toe links, pushrods, rockers, body mts, shock towers, hubs , axles, bumpers, basically one of everything right LOL
No, really, what spares should I get other than lots of batts.....???

bluesrt4ever 11-15-2009 10:50 PM

RE: OFFICIAL MINI E-REVO THREAD!!!
 
For sure get extra A arms. Thats all i have broke so far. Some higher weight shock oil is also a must, springs help as well. Might want some ring and pinion gears as well. Also its a good idea to dremel the font of the battery door so the battery wires are towards the front so the wires dont hit the back wheels.

bluesrt4ever 11-15-2009 11:15 PM

RE: OFFICIAL MINI E-REVO THREAD!!!
 
Now if you hit a solid cender block at near full speed dead on then you might break the yoke differential to wheels and transmission, bulkheads, a arms, still only about 22.00 in parts. My brother did this and we didn't even know the bulkheads were busted tell he took it apart.. We both have yet to break the red toe links. The trucks are tuff and my wife, brother and myself each have one and go figure, the wife is the crazy bad driver that cant stay on the track and her truck has not broke yet lol.

cubnpede82 11-16-2009 04:06 PM

RE: OFFICIAL MINI E-REVO THREAD!!!
 
it's nailed the door frame goint into the dining room pretty hard a few times now, catching only one front tire and sending the truck spinning a couple 360's across the floor.......... my son is 3 and has really put a beating to this truck and so far just some scrapes on the skids from rocks outside............. dang it's fast............

EDIT: anyone have any experience using NiMH AA's in the Traxxas TQ transmitters? Seems like it starts flashing that it's dead pretty soon..... going to try some Duracell's and see what happens......
STILL GOING

any suggestions on thicker fluid, best springs, or diff oil wt.????
I have 40 and 50 shock oils and 50K diff fluid on hand
LHS has one with black springs, what does the color mean on this one?

bluesrt4ever 11-16-2009 11:44 PM

RE: OFFICIAL MINI E-REVO THREAD!!!
 
I just used 60 wt oil and its alot better and allows me to keep the truck low to the ground (stock springs). I have the black and tan springs ordered(they are a little stiffer). I did go to True Value store and found some good stiff springs. The springs were a little long. Tonight im going to cut the springs to the same length as the stock ones and i think they will work great. I was landing huge 10-20 ft jumps at a bike track when the truck had the stock oil and shocks!!!!! Stiffer springs will be a blast. But for a smaller dirt track I think black rear springs and tan front seem to be what guys are doing well with.

bluesrt4ever 11-17-2009 12:45 AM

RE: OFFICIAL MINI E-REVO THREAD!!!
 
Ok just cut the True Value springs. They work but I had to turn the spacer things in way to much to get good response and the truck is way to high in the air. Does any one have a good setup so the springs are stiff ( no bottom out from 8" to ground) and keeping the truck low? if so please give some tips. thanks

xxSLiMxx 11-17-2009 12:49 AM

RE: OFFICIAL MINI E-REVO THREAD!!!
 


ORIGINAL: bluesrt4ever

Ok just cut the True Value springs. They work but I had to turn the spacer things in way to much to get good response and the truck is way to high in the air. Does any one have a good setup so the springs are stiff ( no bottom out from 8'' to ground) and keeping the truck low? if so please give some tips. thanks
That might be hard...you will need some really stiff springs. Are you dropping your truck so all 4 wheels hit the floor at the sametime or on a angel so the rears hit first then the front? like they should be when you land a jump!

bluesrt4ever 11-17-2009 01:06 AM

RE: OFFICIAL MINI E-REVO THREAD!!!
 
I tried it both ways and more. It hits the frame on the floor no matter what. I hope the black springs will help.

bluesrt4ever 11-17-2009 09:48 PM

RE: OFFICIAL MINI E-REVO THREAD!!!
 
1 Attachment(s)
Ok here is a pic of his diff. and its pretty much dry.

mxracer154 11-17-2009 10:45 PM

RE: OFFICIAL MINI E-REVO THREAD!!!
 
Does anyone know how to remove the slop in the wheels? Mine have progressivley gotten worse and worse. I have like half an inch play in all my wheels. This is what i was looking at to remove all of the slop.
-Aluminum hex mounts
http://www.thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_...%201/16%20REVO
-Steel hollow balls
http://www.thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_...%201/16%20REVO
-Aluminum Push Rods
http://www.thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_...%201/16%20REVO
-Aluminum Tie Rods
http://www.thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_...%201/16%20REVO
-Aluminum Knuckles
http://www.thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_...%201/16%20REVO

Would this all take away the slop in the wheels? It's really bothering me and id like to get it as tight as possible. I also need to take apart my diff's and rebuild them. I read on the traxxas forums that people are shimming their diff's while they rebuild them and putting 50k weight oil in. Is this very hard to do? I have never taken apart my traxxas diff's or filled diff's with oil. I have only rebuilt losi ball bearing diff's for my old mini-t.

Truck is now finally showing some wear and needs a little maintence after some good hard bashing for about 4 months [X(] Love this truck!:D

xxSLiMxx 11-17-2009 10:59 PM

RE: OFFICIAL MINI E-REVO THREAD!!!
 
^^ Its a good start.

cubnpede82 11-18-2009 05:04 AM

RE: OFFICIAL MINI E-REVO THREAD!!!
 
I just removed and filled both front and rear diffs and refilled the shocks with 50wt and 50K, it took a couple hours without getting out the drill....... good kit tools, I haven't used anything that didn't come in the box other than the fluids....
I have black and tan springs coming.... not sure what else to do yet , nothing has broken so I think I'm going to start stocking up on a set of arms and links, then bulkheads, and alum shocks, and if I don't break anything, eventually build another truck... LOL
My bulkheads seemed pretty tight and no shimming was needed to be happy with gear mesh, and the pic shown above needs more grease on the ring and pinion.. try 50-100K inside the diff spool, I'm going to get 100K Friday, 50 isn't enough in the rear I fear... LOL
Hope to have a video up soon........
happy landings, tried 3S today and will hold off on that untill my box of spares is full >>>>>> LUDICROUS SPEED!!!!!!>>>>>

Mine is getting a little of the slop that mxracer is talking about, mostly in the pivot ball and "knuckles" i think is what they're called on this kind of setup, shall I replace the plastic part and get new bearings? Man, RPM, where you guys at with the 1/16 parts, I have almost all the RPM parts on my PEDE........ we need new arms, links, and skids with better bumpers..... and the pivot ball holder thingys LOL

cobra26 11-18-2009 06:23 AM

RE: OFFICIAL MINI E-REVO THREAD!!!
 


ORIGINAL: cubnpede82

...anyone have any experience using NiMH AA's in the Traxxas TQ transmitters? Seems like it starts flashing that it's dead pretty soon..... going to try some Duracell's and see what happens......
STILL GOING


I've been using Powerex NiMh "AA" 2700mAh batteries in my transmitter since day one and have had absolutely no problems. I run maybe four times a week (on average) and go though my two Traxxas 1600mAh packs and two 2200mAh LiPo's each time. That's an average of 16 runs between charges on the transmitter batteries (I cycle them once per week). Maybe I just never let them run down enough to experience what is happening to you. Remember, NiMh batteries will not "slow" down as much as NiCd's before their output falls off the ledge.

cubnpede82 11-18-2009 07:59 AM

RE: OFFICIAL MINI E-REVO THREAD!!!
 
Nope, I think I got some AA's to "round file"
charged up a different set and they worked all evening, the one set would charge up and then the TX would start flashing deat batts after like 15 minutes of being on... I think I need to get out my DMM and see if one is bad or something..
I was just thinking that if the Tx was set up for only 1.5v cells that it might think the batts are dead before 8x1.2v cells really are dead......... I think it may just be my batts though............KODAK NiMH AA's dont fit, don't get them..........

MuggyDude 11-18-2009 08:53 AM

RE: OFFICIAL MINI E-REVO THREAD!!!
 
The aluminum hexes can sometimes add some play, I'd stay with plastic unless those are chewed up.

mxracer154 11-18-2009 09:06 AM

RE: OFFICIAL MINI E-REVO THREAD!!!
 


ORIGINAL: MuggyDude

The aluminum hexes can sometimes add some play, I'd stay with plastic unless those are chewed up.
Ok sweet thanks for that. I was just thinkin that aluminum wouldn't bend as easy or round off as easy as the plastic ones. Also, when people talk about filling the diff's do i take apart the diff and lube the inside up then reassamble the diff? So like take off one side fill it up then put it back together with the oil inside? Or do i fill the bulkheads with the oil, so there is oil all around the ring gear and diff? When shimming do i put the shims behind the ring gear to get a tighter gear mesh so that it wont chip teeth? Sorry for the noob questions this truck has me a little more confused [&:]

cobra26 11-18-2009 09:16 AM

RE: OFFICIAL MINI E-REVO THREAD!!!
 


ORIGINAL: cubnpede82

Nope, I think I got some AA's to ''round file''
charged up a different set and they worked all evening, the one set would charge up and then the TX would start flashing deat batts after like 15 minutes of being on... I think I need to get out my DMM and see if one is bad or something..
I was just thinking that if the Tx was set up for only 1.5v cells that it might think the batts are dead before 8x1.2v cells really are dead......... I think it may just be my batts though............KODAK NiMH AA's dont fit, don't get them..........

Yeah, you must have had some bad cells mixed in with your 8 "AA" NiMh batteries. As far as the difference between the 1.2V of the NiMh's and the 1.5V of the alkalines, the transmitter functions perfectly well on the 9.6V total of the NiMh's. I have 36 of the "AA" Powerex 2700mAh batteries and they work great in everything I have them in that call for "AA" batteries. I use them in transmitters, AM/FM broadcast radios, cameras, and a police scanner, and the voltage difference has never been a problem.

squeaky penguin 11-18-2009 10:01 AM

RE: OFFICIAL MINI E-REVO THREAD!!!
 


ORIGINAL: mxracer154

Does anyone know how to remove the slop in the wheels? Mine have progressivley gotten worse and worse. I have like half an inch play in all my wheels. This is what i was looking at to remove all of the slop.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXXKL3&P=Z

This is most likely all you need. Mine wore out very fast and allowed both the ball to slop inside the pushrod, and the screw to slop inside the ball. If you check you tie-rods, I bet that is where the slop is comming from,

cubnpede82 11-18-2009 10:38 AM

RE: OFFICIAL MINI E-REVO THREAD!!!
 
1 Attachment(s)
Late night, Early mornin'

Yeah, I had a dead cell....seems ok now...... never had that problem with TQ's before..... I do have 12 Kodak AA cells that seem a smidge wider than others and 8 side by side won't fit in a TQ case..... GO FIGURE, I also have 16 Duracell's 16 rayovacs, and 8 green ones, not sure what brand but their AAA cells have been the best so far, got em at WALLY WORLD, as well as 8 packs of the rayovac AA's for the price of 4 duracell. I use them in everything, cameras, remotes, clocks, kid toys, dad toys, mom toys,...oh....um...LOL. you get it, and Kodak fits everything else ok .... just when you stack 8 sidexside........the TQ case is too small, fits a futaba and others.....

MXRACER:
DONT FILL THE BULKHEADS WITH OIL!!!!!! they aren't sealed anyway, but filling with a highly viscous diff fluid would add alot of resistance to the drivetrain. Take your mini apart and when you get the front/rear off, take the pins out of the yokes on the diff output and slide the shafts off. You can then open the bulkheads.. Pay special attention to the side which houses the ring gear, it WILL go back together backwards and when you hit the gas one axle spins backwards, funny but don't ask LOL
shimming can be done at the pinion and the side of the ring gear with the proper shim kits. I cleaned mine, and put assembly lube (for car engines and such) on the ring gear, held the bulkheads together and spun the pinion, rear mesh was perfect and front was good enough to not need a shim in my book, it would have to be a really thin one or mesh would be too tight..... LHS had one that they were working on that had a shim behind the pinion from the factory, kinda like a fiber washer........ Clean and inspect for abnormal wear pattern and lube with an RC type silicone grease, like the TRX diff grease stuff, not gobs but enough to coat the teeth when the gears spin.
The spool, diff housing, carrier, or whatever you call the part that the ring gear is bolted too... that has a LSD, locker, or spider gears in this case, inside of it .. These allow the power to be transmitted to each side in different manners. Our MER diffs are basically sealed up , open differentials, that can be filled with thick fluid that makes the gears have resistance to moving...therefore transmitting more power or less power to the wheel with traction.... it takes some patience to fill these tiny diffs and get the air to come up, even with 50k and i'm going to do 100k in the rear the next time it's open.......... but you take the 3 screws out and the one side wil come off, fill it up and spin the gears and fill it and wait and repeat, you get it..... and reassemble , carefull with the little blue o-ring, and voila' a limited slip, you can get like 300k that will almost lock it but I'd imagine that would be hard on this LIL GUY...
My diffs were lubed with thin oil , probably the 30K they were supposed to be filled with... but not nearly full, now the rear slides out and I get a little better oversteer on power and I like that......... Find the thread about the mini revo diffs on here,, there's good info there too........

SORRY guys, ASE auto mechanic here and I can't believe how awesome this thing really is,!!! Pede is a toy, this is a 1/16 scale RACE TRUCK!!!! I hope the inside of the trans looks as stout as the diffs, and not plastic gears everywhere..... haven't heard of any trans probs yet.......

http://members.rennlist.com/951_racerx/PS84Gleason.html

http://www.howstuffworks.com/differential.htm/printable

good info and pics and some animations there, its about cars but the MER is a REAL MACHINE, not a toy LOL

mxracer154 11-18-2009 03:36 PM

RE: OFFICIAL MINI E-REVO THREAD!!!
 
Cubnpede82, thanks that helped a lot. You said that you filled your diff's with 50k oil? Thats what i am thinking about filling mine with. Ill check my gear mesh when soon and see if i should shim them or not.

xxSLiMxx 11-18-2009 03:38 PM

RE: OFFICIAL MINI E-REVO THREAD!!!
 


ORIGINAL: mxracer154

Cubnpede82, thanks that helped a lot. You said that you filled your diff's with 50k oil? Thats what i am thinking about filling mine with. Ill check my gear mesh when soon and see if i should shim them or not.
Ive got 50k in mine too, but im thinking of going thicker!

mxracer154 11-18-2009 03:45 PM

RE: OFFICIAL MINI E-REVO THREAD!!!
 
Hmm whell ill start out with 50k and maybe go thicker kinda how everyone is doing it.

MuggyDude 11-18-2009 05:40 PM

RE: OFFICIAL MINI E-REVO THREAD!!!
 
So 50k in the rear. MX, you should fill the inside of the diff with fluid, and the outside of it with grease on the spider/pinion gears. For all of you who have took apart your diffs, did your trucks come factory with a shim? My truck was one of the first out of the factory, part of Batch #1. It came with a small shim on the front and rear diffs.


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