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Aluminum axle hubs and a arms????
Isaw that thetoyz.com sells Hot Racing axle hubs and a arms i got some questions......
Does anyone other then hot racing make these parts any one used these hot racing parts????? Thanx in advace!!! Sick of replacing them from hittin the wall at my local carpet track ( Please don't just tell me to learn to drive, Iam working on it but im sick of replacing stuff) Iam lookin for these parts for a 1/16 revo (Sorry it completely slipped my mind to mention the vehicle!!!) |
RE: Aluminum axle hubs and a arms????
Well it would help if you started off by specifying which car in particular....
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RE: Aluminum axle hubs and a arms????
Don't have much knowledge of the Hot Racing parts (like the way they look though) but I do have first had experiance with aluminum hop-ups on/with several different vehicles. Don't know too much bout the axle hubs but, from the sounds of it you would be better off boiling your parts and sticking with the stock a-arms. The problem with aluminum a-arms is, when you hit something that force has to be transfered somewhere...that means that you will now break things like diff housings and other parts that are harder and more expensive to replace then a-arms. The force of the impact will just be transfered to another part of the vehicle, I found this out the hard way. I replaced almost everything with aluminum trying to make a MT2 "bullit-proof", that was a really bad idea. You need parts to give/break when you hit something to limit the damage that is occured, just like crumple zones in full size cars. The boiling of the parts will remove the stresses of the plastic parts that they develope during the molding process. Boiling will basically make the parts a little more flexable and less brittle. I would highly recomend leaving the a-arms stock and upgrade other parts with aluminum or material of your choice. Also, you never mentioned what vehicle you have. Don't think anyone can sugest parts and/or manufacturers if they don't know what vehicle you have.
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RE: Aluminum axle hubs and a arms????
Well cfish gave some great advice, I don't have an E-Revo but the same thing basically applies. If you replace the hubs the arms will break, if you replace the arms and hub the hinge pin mounts will break, if you replace everything with aluminum.....well that's when things start to bend. If RPM makes any arms or hubs, I highly suggest you use those. I use RPM arms on my 18T. One of the most amazing things I've seen them do was bend a complete 45 degrees and get stuck on the chassy. I pulled it off the Chassy and it sprang right back into place; I'm still running that arm and all the others. :D
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RE: Aluminum axle hubs and a arms????
i didn;t know about the boiling part!!! how long to you let it boil for?? i am assuming that u boil them in water but figured i would double check as we all know what assuming does!!!
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RE: Aluminum axle hubs and a arms????
ORIGINAL: catfish77 Don't have much knowledge of the Hot Racing parts (like the way they look though) but I do have first had experiance with aluminum hop-ups on/with several different vehicles. Don't know too much bout the axle hubs but, from the sounds of it you would be better off boiling your parts and sticking with the stock a-arms. The problem with aluminum a-arms is, when you hit something that force has to be transfered somewhere...that means that you will now break things like diff housings and other parts that are harder and more expensive to replace then a-arms. The force of the impact will just be transfered to another part of the vehicle, I found this out the hard way. I replaced almost everything with aluminum trying to make a MT2 "bullit-proof", that was a really bad idea. You need parts to give/break when you hit something to limit the damage that is occured, just like crumple zones in full size cars. The boiling of the parts will remove the stresses of the plastic parts that they develope during the molding process. Boiling will basically make the parts a little more flexable and less brittle. I would highly recomend leaving the a-arms stock and upgrade other parts with aluminum or material of your choice. Also, you never mentioned what vehicle you have. Don't think anyone can sugest parts and/or manufacturers if they don't know what vehicle you have. You are correct about the "aluminum hop-up parts transfer impacts to other parts of the car," but you're a bit overstating the advantages of boiling parts. Way back in the day we used to boil the nylon parts on our RC cars to toughen them, because they were so soft and flexible. But now that most cars use some sort of hybrid plastic in their construction, the benefits of boiling is gone as boiling them does little to nothing. It's an old wive's tale. The reality is that if you're crashing enough that you're routinely breaking parts you should keep in mind that breaking cheap/inexpensive plastic bits and pieces results in cheap repairs. If you are crashing and bending aluminum parts, because aluminum does bend, the resulting repairs cost big bucks. Then when you factor in the other parts you'll also break, well, you get the picture. Slow down, you might even benefit from switching your Mini-Revo to the "training mode" while you're racing as the truck is severly overmotored for most tracks. At least until your driving improves. Good luck :) |
RE: Aluminum axle hubs and a arms????
I have found that replacing factory parts with stronger aftermarket parts leads something else to break. As a solution, I have learned to upgrade parts that require more effort to replace, and parts that require a great deal of rigidity and precision. I will recommend the same to others. Attempting to allow failure of select components reduces down time, wear and tear, and expenses.
Hubs and steering components are critical. Precision is important for suspension tuning and handling. They are not difficult to get to, where you have to remove olnly wheels, tie rods, pivot balls, bearings. Bulkheads are difficult. In adition to the aforementioned, A-arms, shocks, and chassis bolts now have to come off. Great parts for upgrading. A-arms are easy to get to, cheap, and don't have many threads to wear out and strip. A great candidate for predictve failure. I have always kept these either factory or plastic, never aluminum. If something is going to break, hopefully it can be an A-arm. The LHS has a good supply, and I am not broken down for long. |
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