Jr Falcon Build
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#102
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After I put everything together and assure nothing is warped, I will put 2 coats of lightly thinned butyrate, 2 coats of butyrate with talc sanding with steel wool (prevents cutting thru covering), spray with silver (shows every flaw) and then shoot with KlassKote color and finish with clear.
#103
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From Stuka Stunt Works forum, the CL boys know their paint:
>>>>quick question before I do anything stupid here ----
>>>>will klasscote adhere to a 'normally prepared' nitrate/butyrate dope
>You can paint right over a nitrate finish. I usually let it
>sit for a week before the first coat of epoxy over nitrate.
>You can't paint anything over butyrate because, it never stops
>gassing off.
Well, actually you can paint over butyrate with alkyd enamel, acrylic enamel (both with and without hardener), automotive polyurethane enamels (the two-part cross-linked kind), and with two-part epoxies. The Christen Eagle II (full-scale kit) finishing procedure is to use butyrate dope through silver, and then use DuPont Imron polyurethane over it, and it works beautifully. I have been painting both full-scale airplanes and model airplanes this way for over thirty years with great results. Where builders get into problems with butyrate dope is when they add too much plasticizer - plasticizer does make the dope more flexible but at the cost of decreased intercoat adhesion. You have to strike a balance between keeping the dope flexible and intercoat adhesion.
http://www.clstunt.com/htdocs/dc/dcb...opic_id=294785
Then I remembered that KlassKote has a good website and very helpful folks on the phone (I spoke with Nate)
Here's the result of the call -
1 Klasskote will stick to almost anything except wax and grease. Nitrate or Butyrate with/without talc filler is fine as a substrate as long as it is sanded dull to give the epoxy something to key to, and is thoroughly cleaned.
2 Dont use a tack cloth to clean the substrate - clean surface with degreaser - with epoxy solvent if possible.
3 It is fine for use on open bays - the paint (though tough) is extremely flexible - so it wont crack over a polyspan covering.
So overall it looks like the green light for painting over the Christmas holidays!!
Hopefully this will help others starting to use this stuff as well.
Kind Regards
Peter
Dave
PS update on the "free" Jr Falcon, the stab and fuse are ready to recover, I will cut new fin/stab and the wing was
all wrong, so building a new one from scratch. Planning to use a TT 07 on it.
>>>>quick question before I do anything stupid here ----
>>>>will klasscote adhere to a 'normally prepared' nitrate/butyrate dope
>You can paint right over a nitrate finish. I usually let it
>sit for a week before the first coat of epoxy over nitrate.
>You can't paint anything over butyrate because, it never stops
>gassing off.
Well, actually you can paint over butyrate with alkyd enamel, acrylic enamel (both with and without hardener), automotive polyurethane enamels (the two-part cross-linked kind), and with two-part epoxies. The Christen Eagle II (full-scale kit) finishing procedure is to use butyrate dope through silver, and then use DuPont Imron polyurethane over it, and it works beautifully. I have been painting both full-scale airplanes and model airplanes this way for over thirty years with great results. Where builders get into problems with butyrate dope is when they add too much plasticizer - plasticizer does make the dope more flexible but at the cost of decreased intercoat adhesion. You have to strike a balance between keeping the dope flexible and intercoat adhesion.
http://www.clstunt.com/htdocs/dc/dcb...opic_id=294785
Then I remembered that KlassKote has a good website and very helpful folks on the phone (I spoke with Nate)
Here's the result of the call -
1 Klasskote will stick to almost anything except wax and grease. Nitrate or Butyrate with/without talc filler is fine as a substrate as long as it is sanded dull to give the epoxy something to key to, and is thoroughly cleaned.
2 Dont use a tack cloth to clean the substrate - clean surface with degreaser - with epoxy solvent if possible.
3 It is fine for use on open bays - the paint (though tough) is extremely flexible - so it wont crack over a polyspan covering.
So overall it looks like the green light for painting over the Christmas holidays!!
Hopefully this will help others starting to use this stuff as well.
Kind Regards
Peter
Dave
PS update on the "free" Jr Falcon, the stab and fuse are ready to recover, I will cut new fin/stab and the wing was
all wrong, so building a new one from scratch. Planning to use a TT 07 on it.
Last edited by fritzke; 09-12-2013 at 09:21 AM.
#106
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There are 3: front and back outer, and one inner doubler which spans the zig-zag splice. Fuzzy image, but you can see it here:
http://www.model-plans.co.uk/carl%20...r%20Falcon.htm
Dave
http://www.model-plans.co.uk/carl%20...r%20Falcon.htm
Dave
Last edited by fritzke; 09-12-2013 at 07:56 PM.