hllywdb

The old rubber ducky can sometimes suprise you because of the built in "torque converter" kind of like the old 2-speed slush boxes being a poor man's lenco

alcarafa

Those wings are looking good n fassst , congratulations it's going to be a lil missile

hllywdb

Thanks Rafa, this is the thinnest I've ever tried on a full built up wing with sheething and rib caps.

combatpigg

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[automatic trannies took over drag racing about the same time that GIB fighter planes took over......[:'(]]]

hllywdb

Kind of sad too as power shifting a Hurst or Mr Gasket short throw on an M-22 or top-loader was truely an art form. Of course it was safer if you've ever seen a clutch part fly through the floor and out the passenger window Lakewood blow sheilds were expensive on a high school budget and that money needed to go towards centerlines!

combatpigg

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Our high school shop class had a film of what a clutch explosion looks like and that film helped sell a bunch of scattershields, I'm pretty sure.
So in 1971-72-73 it was about $100 for one.
$100 for a vertical gate shifter....
come to think of it, just about every little aftermarket bolt on product seemed to be in that $100 range...which would have been about a weeks' pay for many kids.

hllywdb

And a 671 with manifold, belts and pulleys was only around 600-$700 if you already had flat tops in it Nitrous was what you got at the dentists office.

combatpigg

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1976...Ft. Carson Colorado......... I was walking guard duty one night around a tarp that was covering a big mound of who knows what underneath. I walked my first shift without peeking under the tarp to see what was under there. On the 2nd shift I did take a look under the tarp and could not believe my eyes...it was a big pile of supercharged small block chevys painted 100% OD green. They were used way before my time in 13 ton APCs, I've been told.

hllywdb

That's the stuff you never see show up in a surplus store! There was a guy down here in FL a few years back that had an old river gun boat that he was using for a treasure/dive boat. He took the gas turbine water jet drives out and put in a couple of disels. Had a big metal plate bolted down where the gun turret was on the front. Said it was real stable offshore. Me, I'd just be happy with an old F4 Phantom. Don't even care what color, I can paint. To me they encompass what a fighter jet should look like. Plus I grew up on Quanssett Point watching the Blue Angels fly them in the 60's. Forget small and nimble fighters, watching those F4's put on a show was the original "Shock and Awe."

Awe crap, I hijacked my own thread again!

combatpigg

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The Phantom sure was the most evil looking IMO. It reminds me of a hornet the same way a Corvette looks like a shark.
It would be tough to model it in 1/2A scale I think...and have it perform well.
Maybe at 36 inches span with a Cyclon .15 pusher...but that pusher duty's awful punishing for the poor engine. Then there's the subject of working props....
Making it a tractor design is out of the question unless you want 10 degrees of downthrust.
To make it both recognizable and functional [fast] would be quite a challenge as a 1/2Aer.
I think it would be silly to build it "too scale", heavy, thick, etc. and have it fly like a turd.
Hey now..if you weren't so busy hijacking these threads you might get some work done on the GLH..huh?

Max_Power

+1 on the F-4 being the coolest fighter ever. It has the same type of gorgeous "Non-Beauty" as a 66' Charger or a Kaiser pickup. I've found as I'm getting older the F-100 strikes me the same.

Just as a interesting factoid for those that don't know, Those roots superchargers are bone stock factory parts for GM manufactured Detroit Diesels from the wayback machine. They won't run without one. Thats how you make a 2-stroke diesel work. Open up the exhaust valve up top and let the super clean out and recharge the cylinder through the ports uncovered by the piston. There isn't any fuel in the air yet so you can't waste any diesel. The names "6-71, 8-71" etc are the engine model it was designed for. B&M, Littlefield, Dyer, etc just milled the tabs off the bottom...Flipped the rotors and made endplates and drive pullies to make them fit autos. ...With a 3/4 horse motor I had the coolest shop fan in town in high school[8D]...Neat visual illusion watching those intermeshing rotors spin.

Anyway, enough hijacking.[8D] CP It almost sounds as if the gears are turning on the F-4 build if I didn't know better?? Todd

fit90

Do you know what kind of boat it was? Was it about 21' long with a fiberglass coated balsa hull? In the late 80's/early 90's the Navy was getting out of the PBR (patrol boat, riverine) game. We were overhauling our boat to give to Belize. At the time it had a pair of Detroit 250's. I was told that it was used in the Vietnam war and was outfitted with a pair of Chevy 427's back then. The engines each drove a Jacuzzi "jet" pump. It had a pair of M-2's up front. It was a fun boat, probably because of the great guys as much as the boat. It would be cool to know at least one came back to the U. S.

Bob

hllywdb

CP I been buildin, just not postin pichers.
I've got the second wing built, both sanded then joined, and the ailerons cut out of the TE. Even have my linkage installed. Not a lot of fun with the TE getting so thin.
As for hijacking threads, I believe this GLH started as a hijack on my SlipStream thread.

Todd, the F-4 is almost starting to sound like a challenge, but I remember how much fun CP had last year with the 105(?) project, anhedral tail, and he has LOTS more patience than me.

Bob, this boat was more like 30 to 40 feet and the gun turret had to be around 5 or 6 feet. It was a vietnam river boat, maybe kevlar hull? Could have been balsa/fiberglass. Thought he said Kevlar, but could be wrong.

combatpigg

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hllywdb...looks great considering you built the whole thing with a steak knife.......
You've got a great project brewing there.
Todd....I've built a couple 1/2A pushers for speed but it's hard on the engines to sit in a dead air space and not get any prop blast.
Imagine what any boat with a pair of 427s is worth..? That's one of my favorite Chevy engines

hllywdb

Yeah, the venerable L-88. Imagine what one would be worth with a pair of Ford 427 SO motors.
The steak knife is there because I had to take a break and whip together a new body for my wife's foam combat plane and the steak knife makes it quick.

Hey Todd, can you eleborate on exactly where you hog out the counterbalance on the AME? The pictures made it hard to tell.

Max_Power

I'm Todd, 1/2a wannabe extraordinare. The 1/2a in most of my planes stands for 1/2 Assembled or 1/2 *****ed TOAD is the God of Speed ye seek. I too am interested in seeing some pics of his mods closer up. Hopefully he will "HOP IN" soon (Sorry, couldnt resist[:-] So have any of you guys made a integral Norvie Pressure backplate/ mount? What is the official thread spec on the backplate? I've gotten single-point external threading down to a point I'm ready to try one and I figured it would be cool to have a mount AKA K&B Sporster on the backplate. Does the pressure hole really need to be as small ".015" as people seem to say? Thanks TODD

hllywdb

Perhaps we can get the God of speed to jump in on my lowley thread, hijacked as it is....
Since we already went way off course to big blocks anyway, here is why I am building on the dining room table instead of my regular build table, it's occupied. And yes, I know exactly what to do with that crank

aspeed

I just checked a backplate from a .06 Norvel and it is 16 mm by 30 threads per inch. That works out to around .8 mm pitch. I don't seem to have a metric pitch guage. You could check to see what standard metric thread might be correct. My backplateonly has around three threads holding it so the pitch could be fudged a bit. I would try for the .015" hole. If you can't find a drill (or don't want to) then a waxed or oiled wire can be inserted into the hole and solder itup if the fitting is brass.( If you are turning the nipple onto the backplate then you will need a drill)Then pull out the wire. .008" would be a good size too. I was going to put my Olds 455 motor in my 1932 Sedan, but sold the motor and just put in a 305. I don't even want to finish it now, streetrods look like they need emissions testing now ;-(

combatpigg

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That's a really cool looking chopper project..!
The only "chopper" I ever built was out of a bicycle frame with a 31 cc Ryobi weed eater engine and spindle drive. It was something like 60:1 drive ratio out of a 7000 rpm IIRC.
I tried the same idea with a Husqvarna 55 cc and it shredded tires too often.

hllywdb

CP, shredding the tire is 1/2 the reason we build choppers. (The other 1/2 is cause they look so dam**n cool)That project started when I came across and old 60's king and queen seat in an old shop in Daytona. My wife said why don't we build another one like the ones we had back then (gotta love her) So we found an old wishbone ridgid frame and 5 1/2 foot old school springer durring bike week and started collecting stuff here and there in our road trips. I have added 4" of streatch in the backbone and another 6" in the down tubes. Just got the neck cups in so I can add another 12 to 15 degrees of rack to the neck so it sits and rides good.

Max_Power

Thanks Aspeed....Wow .008 is a small hole. maybe I'll just drill from the back with a .062 ish drill and then remove .001 or so at a time from the crankcase side till I just poke into the "V" of the drilled hole, then turn the rest out and thread. What are your thoughts on mounting the engine off this? Otherwise Its probably easier to use CP's method of filling the backplate with JB with a brass tube poked through and solder fill etc. I guess the Texas Timers mounts done the same way might get me close as well.

fit90

I have used the Texas Timer radial mount back plate for a Cox Tee Dee and put about 1/8" of J B Weld in it and then drilled and tapped it for a 4-40 pressure nipple. I J B Welded the nipple in place. I am trying to load a picture but am not having any luck.

Bob

aspeed

Pre drilling most of the way through is fine.  .015" is ok.  If you are making a whole new backplate to be a radial mount, you could use a brass nipple soldered up by making a boss thick enough to drill and tap for the nipple to thread into.  A backplate mount would be good.  It should be a bit lighter at least.  A solid pan as a motor mount may give a few more revs, but weight is important as well.

hllywdb

OK, back to the build. More progress. At this point I have three design decisions to make.

1. I am going to have to mount the elevator servo aft of the main compartment and access it through a hatch in the bottom. At this size, plus making the body hiegth even smaller than the 90%, I just don't have the heigth for both elevator and aileron servo at the same time (remember I can't burry the servo in a 1/4" wing) There really isn't room to stager then either. With today's servos shouldn't create much of a CG issue.

2. What do you think of using hing tape on the elevator, top and bottom? The plan shows it angled back top to bottom, which would suggest hinge tape.

3. I still have to figure a way to plumb the pressure line outside the fuse to fill it, BUT in a fashion that doesn't create extra drag. Almost thinking of a fuel valve like I use on larger cowled motors. Don't think the 1/4oz will hurt, might even offset the rear servo perfectly

Andrew

What if you make up a simple plug from brass tubing with a cap soldered on one end. Leave yourself an inch or so of tubing free inside the fuselage. With the plug in place, you can push it flush with the fuselage side, then pull it out to gain access to the fuel line when you need to fill. You might want to add a barb or ring on the end of the plug to ensure the tubing is retained.