Anyone ever have a Webra .09/1.5cc R/C side exhaust motor?
09-22-2014, 07:37 AM
#1
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Anyone ever have a Webra .09/1.5cc R/C side exhaust motor?
I've never seen one of these before, while visiting RocketRob 2 weeks ago in San Fran he gave me three of these engines to take home.
Are they good runners? They seem 'sturdy', which is perfect for a project I have in mind that needs two heavy engines as there essentially isn't a nose on the airplane.
Are they good runners? They seem 'sturdy', which is perfect for a project I have in mind that needs two heavy engines as there essentially isn't a nose on the airplane.
09-22-2014, 09:37 AM
#2
The Webra 1.5cc Sport is unfortunately a bit anemic. It is a simple cross-flow design with a flat head piston...
I don't remember exactly what mine did but expect around 14-15000rpm on a 7x3 prop, and use plenty of castor in the fuel.
The Webra Speedy 1.8cc and the 2.0cc (ABC) with the rear exhaust, are much better.
I don't remember exactly what mine did but expect around 14-15000rpm on a 7x3 prop, and use plenty of castor in the fuel.
The Webra Speedy 1.8cc and the 2.0cc (ABC) with the rear exhaust, are much better.
09-24-2014, 01:02 PM
#6
No, it was a real disappointment when I first ran it. I also had a look inside, it is a simple crossflow design, but they forgot to put the important baffle on the piston...
Perhaps it began as a diesel design and then also offered as glow, I don't know.
The engine to have in this size from webra is the Speedy 1.8cc or even better 2.0cc;
Perhaps it began as a diesel design and then also offered as glow, I don't know.
The engine to have in this size from webra is the Speedy 1.8cc or even better 2.0cc;
09-24-2014, 04:59 PM
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The Webra Speedy 1.8 cc (MAS 7x4) is a fantastic little engine. On my "Wild Thing" it easily keeps up with an Enya .15 (2.5 cc). It is lighter than an MVVS 2.0 cc and has the same power. The only disadvantage (for me anyway) is that it uses its own glow head. I have drilled and tapped the old glow head for a standard glow plug. Not much power was lost.
Last edited by JohnAV8R; 11-02-2014 at 02:40 PM.
09-26-2014, 07:32 AM
#8
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10-05-2014, 03:51 AM
#9
I got a little curious about the engine again, so I dug out my 1.5cc from the bottom of a shoe-box and gave it a little bench run...
I have worked a little on the crank inlet before and also added an muffler pressure fitting, but appart from that it is all stock. It is not quite as bad as I remembered, on 8% nitro and 25% all castor I get the following numbers;
APC 7x4; 13400 rpm (feels a little overloaded at full throttle)
APC 7x3; 16200 rpm (good throttle response)
It idles down to about 5000-6000rpm, but it is not possible to tune on the airbleed with the engine running. It is also best to wear a glove, as the airbleed screw tends to cut the finger tip when flipping the engine...
I have worked a little on the crank inlet before and also added an muffler pressure fitting, but appart from that it is all stock. It is not quite as bad as I remembered, on 8% nitro and 25% all castor I get the following numbers;
APC 7x4; 13400 rpm (feels a little overloaded at full throttle)
APC 7x3; 16200 rpm (good throttle response)
It idles down to about 5000-6000rpm, but it is not possible to tune on the airbleed with the engine running. It is also best to wear a glove, as the airbleed screw tends to cut the finger tip when flipping the engine...
Last edited by Mr Cox; 10-05-2014 at 03:53 AM.
10-05-2014, 08:14 PM
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What about if you turned the carb around and had the air bleed screw at the back and out of the way? I have a small engine set up that way, but I am not sure if it came that way intentionally, or in error.
10-05-2014, 08:20 PM
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I don't think it makes a huge amount of difference-though I'd expect to see a very slight difference in setting between a front facing airbleed and a rear facing one-due to the ram effect of the prop slipstream-but given we are talking at idling speeds this would be fairly small...I have seen over the years some engines with the bleed opening on the rear face of the carb.
ChrisM
'ffkiwi'
ChrisM
'ffkiwi'
10-05-2014, 10:02 PM
#12
In terms of function the airbleed could well be facing backwards by rotating the whole carb 90°, I have done that on other engines.
On this engine though the carb is very asymmetric in shape, it doesn't show so well in the pictures above, but the section with the airbleed screw is sitting on a bulge on the carb. This bulge puts the screw very close to the prop, and it will also hit the cylinder if one rotates everything by 90°.
On this engine though the carb is very asymmetric in shape, it doesn't show so well in the pictures above, but the section with the airbleed screw is sitting on a bulge on the carb. This bulge puts the screw very close to the prop, and it will also hit the cylinder if one rotates everything by 90°.
10-06-2014, 04:03 AM
#13
I just checked my computer for some more info and found a parts diagram with the different versions, it did come as a diesel, glow (airplane), and car engine (larger head). The carbs seems to have varied over the years, the early ones look a bit like the MVVS ones, while I have the later version which is common with the 1.8 and 2cc "Speedy" engine.
I have a used airplane engine and a NIB car-engine, but none of the diesel ones...
I have a used airplane engine and a NIB car-engine, but none of the diesel ones...
Last edited by Mr Cox; 10-06-2014 at 04:08 AM.
10-06-2014, 07:00 AM
#14
After a bit of "googling" I found a picture of the diesel version too. The pretty anodizing of the head should be a warning sign. Any engines that need pretty colors in order to sell, usually don't deliver much in terms of performance...
10-06-2014, 07:21 AM
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" Any engines that need pretty colors in order to sell, usually don't deliver much in terms of performance... "
Well, I guess I'm guilty as he** on that note. I've always been a sucker for the anodized muffin colours.
John
Well, I guess I'm guilty as he** on that note. I've always been a sucker for the anodized muffin colours.
John
10-06-2014, 10:30 AM
#16
I feel a bit guilty now about the carb, I hadn't actually tried to rotate it, it just looked impossible. Turns out that they have given just enough of chamfer to the bulge to allow for a rotation...
So with a new hex screw installed, instead of the slotted stock one (a regular M2x8 machine screw) and with the carb rotated 90°, it will now be possible to tune on the low-end while running the engine, great!
So with a new hex screw installed, instead of the slotted stock one (a regular M2x8 machine screw) and with the carb rotated 90°, it will now be possible to tune on the low-end while running the engine, great!
10-07-2014, 03:34 AM
#17
I just realized that these engines are very similar to the LST engines. I have one of them in diesel form, but I know very little about them. They are/were made in Lithuania and it certainly looks like they were inspired by Webra, or possibly the otherway around...
Same thing here though, one single transfer port (opposite to the exhaust) and no baffle on the piston. The muffler is kind of cute though...
Same thing here though, one single transfer port (opposite to the exhaust) and no baffle on the piston. The muffler is kind of cute though...
04-20-2015, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Mr Cox
In terms of function the airbleed could well be facing backwards by rotating the whole carb 90°, I have done that on other engines.
On this engine though the carb is very asymmetric in shape, it doesn't show so well in the pictures above, but the section with the airbleed screw is sitting on a bulge on the carb. This bulge puts the screw very close to the prop, and it will also hit the cylinder if one rotates everything by 90°.
On this engine though the carb is very asymmetric in shape, it doesn't show so well in the pictures above, but the section with the airbleed screw is sitting on a bulge on the carb. This bulge puts the screw very close to the prop, and it will also hit the cylinder if one rotates everything by 90°.
Agree on engine colors- but there are a few exceptions. The purple West .50/.52 for example. Hmm, what else now..
04-20-2015, 11:45 AM
#22
Originally Posted by MJD
When you turn the carb 90 degrees, do you recommend putting the needle valve into the prop arc, or into the cylinder?
Or you would have to rotate the whole engine the reminding 90°...
