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Combatpigg's 1903 wright flyer

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Old 10-01-2015, 09:24 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by rgburrill
Seriously? You have never heard of Gustave Whitehead? He flew the first powered airplane two years before the Wright Brothers but the US refused to recognize it because he was a German immigrant and that was not a good thing to be at that time.
I have absolutely no recall of Gustave Whitehead's name anywhere. What I remember were "rumblings" that surfaced after I was out of High School about an aviation pioneer who was never recognized. For some reason, I think the story was told by Charles Kuralt on either the radio or TV.
I did read recently read about where dihedral was used in some 1800's glider tests.
Old 10-01-2015, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Pond Skipper
Nope didnt say that just more RPM
Overdrive is a mechanical disadvantage [from the engine's perspective], so even with a perfect drive system with zero losses, it's quite a "cross to bear" for an engine that is being maxxed out.
Bonneville Salt Flat racers blow engines up often, even though they gradually accelerate the engines up to fairly common rpms [for a race prepped engine].
Old 10-01-2015, 11:22 AM
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Yes understand very true.

Objectives:
- run engine at same rpm already established
- gear up to increase prop rpm
- bench test props
- design plane to suit selected props, rpm, dia. and pitch.
- like Wilbur and Orville avoid ridicule / hide project till objectives achieved

Could use one of my BB .05 RC car engines if I decided to source a small belt and wheels.

Last edited by Pond Skipper; 10-01-2015 at 11:47 AM.
Old 10-01-2015, 11:42 AM
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Now roll up all of this negative talk into a little ball and let it fuel your resolve to make this happen...!
What would really help to make some of these ideas work is a reliable, distortion free welding process on the cast aluminum cases.
Old 10-02-2015, 05:28 AM
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Speaking of Vintage Biplanes here are three in flight

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=FpVBoB6lr5E
Old 10-02-2015, 06:37 AM
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I like the look of those..!
The size of the dolls relative to the plane, makes those planes look pretty small in actual size.
Old 10-02-2015, 11:38 AM
  #57  
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I like the simplicity of the design one could make a actual Ultra lite for low flying over good ground perhaps 30hp should be enough. All aluminum open framed flat square stock tig welded fuselage with a 3 gal tank and a 1/3gal hopper gottah land tank. Rip stop nylon covered aluminum framed wings.
Old 10-02-2015, 01:57 PM
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I'm tempted to build one for direct drive of a Slow Flyer prop.
The engine sounds pretty cool chugging at 6500.
Old 10-02-2015, 04:43 PM
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To further enhance the sound you could sleeve the exhaust and have two graduating header pipes out the side to have a two step sound.

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Old 10-03-2015, 12:36 PM
  #60  
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Yes, the dual exhaust would be a nice project to practice making sleeves.
The lathe belt arrived today, so I was able to whittle out the new pulleys.
The engine starts and runs easy enough now...well enough to consider the Power Plant finished enough to move on to building the rudder and setting up the controls.
I think there is ample thrust to fly this thing. I'm not sure if loops and rolls are in the cards, I expect just keeping it from crashing will be a big enough undertaking. https://youtu.be/q0WgeqkeuJM
Old 10-03-2015, 01:34 PM
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Now if you could just pipe the exhaust into a Y fitting and spit half of it into the top of each of those slave driven crankcases, you'd have yerself a lube system.

Crazy project, I hope it flies. It's too funny not to.
Old 10-03-2015, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by MJD
Now if you could just pipe the exhaust into a Y fitting and spit half of it into the top of each of those slave driven crankcases, you'd have yerself a lube system.

Crazy project, I hope it flies. It's too funny not to.
That's a good idea...!

I tried a scratch canard for the first Design Contest [IIRC] and it was somewhat controllable but not a very good flyer. It was stable enough to fly more or less level, but the close coupled canard didn't have much pitch authority until you cranked in a bunch of throw and by then it acted like a speed brake. After playing with various CGs, control throws and canard areas I threw in the towel and went with a fixed canard / elevon type plane that flew OK.
Old 10-03-2015, 03:06 PM
  #63  
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You can just fill them up 1/4 oil and screw on a glow plug to keep things from splattering about. Thank you for the vid Chuck that was enjoyable!!!!
Old 10-03-2015, 04:15 PM
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My pleasure..!
Thanks for encouraging me to try an O-ring drive.
Before this design project was announced I bought a small stainless coffee mug / thermos that came complete with a domed lid. The lid seals with a pair of large O-rings [that I have never used] and they ended up being what I designed this contraption around. A whole bunch of spare O rings just came in, but I'm still using the original pair.
Old 10-03-2015, 05:52 PM
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Hi CP,

Wonderful Project!
I'd drill 1/32nd holes in the top of the outer cases, to drip 3-1 oil in,
The Cox Heatsink worked great in my car projects. (heavy cast al.)
Could be 'swisscheesed' for flight...

I imagine Orville saying, to Wilbur,
"Are You Sure ?"

Great Project CP,

Cheers,
Dave'crosscheck'Fallowfield
Old 10-03-2015, 06:08 PM
  #66  
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Thanks Dave and thanks for reminding me to make a heat sink, too..!
Old 10-03-2015, 06:59 PM
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The O rings are tough and will last a long time. I have some that are over 20yrs old still in great shape.
I use a dab of non destructive oil when not in use and bag them.
Old 10-03-2015, 09:02 PM
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ATF ought to be a good choice to help preserve them.
How / what have you used O-rings to power...?
Old 10-03-2015, 10:28 PM
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I first started using 8in dia 4mm O rings as starter belts for my .049 thru .074 nitro boats. Then used them as belt drives with electric projects for quite indoor non geared electric brushed motors. Later I use them for retainers on prop saver hubs for my brushless motors. And most recently a 6in dia. 3mm for starting my TD .020 mono hull Cracker boat.
Old 10-04-2015, 09:11 AM
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The miniature boat world is one I've only seen from afar.
I used to browse the boat section at the LHS to look at the packages of all the ingenious, specialized hardware.
I'm surprised to hear that a small O-ring can crank over a .049 - .074.
Old 10-04-2015, 10:18 AM
  #71  
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Yes most standard size elect starters has a groove in the cone for belt starting boat engines. There is specialized tooth belts for starting larger engines, at the time O rings was a solution for the small engines with a little searching I would imagine there is a nice 3mm wide tooth belt around 6in out there on the web.
Old 10-05-2015, 11:50 AM
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I've rigged the ailerons and built the rudder. I cheated on the rudder design, just to avoid making a naturally tail heavy design even worse. At this stage, I just want it to resemble a Wright Flyer on camera and be airworthy.
Once the servos are installed, there isn't much else to do except march on down to the hay field with a box full of repair supplies and see if it will fly.
The Smithsonian failed in their attempt if you recall. I never understood why they would go to so much expense to recreate the original plane and then impose a phony deadline to either get it airborne or else ship it to the museum.
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Old 10-05-2015, 12:02 PM
  #73  
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http://sdp-si.com/ss/pdf/80502020.pdf

http://www.sdp-si.com/web/html/newprd1mmbelts.htm

1/8" wide kevlar reinforced timing belts, and plastic pulleys.
Old 10-05-2015, 12:10 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by MJD
http://sdp-si.com/ss/pdf/80502020.pdf

http://www.sdp-si.com/web/html/newprd1mmbelts.htm

1/8" wide kevlar reinforced timing belts, and plastic pulleys.
Well, it's time to build a Cox .049 Chainsaw...!
Old 10-05-2015, 12:18 PM
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I thought you just did.


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