Mccoy .049 needle valve
11-30-2015, 04:51 PM
#2
I think it would be easier to find a used engine on ebay with a needle valve intact. Otherwise try to find some group of collectors of McCoy engines to find that part. You'd be better off with a Cox .049. But then I would understand if you're making this a "project" just for fun.
11-30-2015, 07:06 PM
#4
You might find something useable here http://www.texastimers.com/ A remote needle could be used too, just get the remnants of the old needle out, and solder, or plug up the hole.
12-01-2015, 11:26 AM
#5
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Chilliwack, BC, CANADA
Posts: 12,423
Likes: 0
Received 22 Likes
on
19 Posts
Wen-Mac/McCoy parts are just about impossible to find so unless you get lucky and find someone willing to part with a NIB assembly I'd suggest using a needle and spraybar from a Cox "product" engine. The brass spraybar can be pressed out of the plastic back plates quite easily. Then you just need to play with some way to hold it in the McCoy crankcase. Hopefully it press fits right in. Otherwise you may need to play with one or more of the industrial adhesives such as Loctite.
One engine I did in this way had a hole which was too large. I soldered a "flange" made from a wrap of copper wire to one side, inserted the spray bar then soldered a second flange on the other side of copper wire. Along the way I also filed a notch or two into the face of the carb body so the solder could flow into it and key the spray bar in place. A little smear of RTV rubber over the joints after cleaning the flux away acted as a seal. That was back in my teens and the engine is long gone now. But it worked well for quite a few flights until some wind tipped the model into the circle and it hit a nasty rock in the ground and busted the engine to pieces.
One engine I did in this way had a hole which was too large. I soldered a "flange" made from a wrap of copper wire to one side, inserted the spray bar then soldered a second flange on the other side of copper wire. Along the way I also filed a notch or two into the face of the carb body so the solder could flow into it and key the spray bar in place. A little smear of RTV rubber over the joints after cleaning the flux away acted as a seal. That was back in my teens and the engine is long gone now. But it worked well for quite a few flights until some wind tipped the model into the circle and it hit a nasty rock in the ground and busted the engine to pieces.
