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Removing a clutch from a rusty .15?

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Removing a clutch from a rusty .15?

Old 01-31-2016, 08:58 AM
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fritzke
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Default Removing a clutch from a rusty .15?

Hey guys, looking far a possible solution to this.
I got an old Traxxas Nitro Vee awhile back and last night I got a bug to tear it apart and clean up the engine. All went well until I tried to remove the rear part of the clutch from the crank. I suspected that perhaps it was threaded, but this diagram:
http://www.traxxas.com.ar/pdfs/trx_1...TRX15_assy.jpg (part 3882...)
indicates it has a collet. I tried hammer and punch, cold, hot, tried using much pressure in a big Wilton vise, cold, hot, and tried heating the crank and hammering a bit.
Nothing.
I am trying not to ruin anything, just replace the bearings which are toast. BUT to do that the, clutch has to come off. Any super secret techniques for me to try? There is a sad bunch of corrosion in the crankcase which may have welded the crank to the bearing inner's making things even more fun. If I had to, I could cleave off the bugger and then replace the clutch with a flywheel. (Or make it an AERO engine, if I could find a backplate that fit it to eliminate the pull starter).
Dave
Old 01-31-2016, 04:37 PM
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I have used a Sears battery terminal puller on some of them.... I assume you have removed #3283 before trying to remove #3882
Old 02-01-2016, 04:19 PM
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fritzke
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Yup, #3283 is removed! It's soaking in a bath of Hoppes #9 now, I will give it a few days of marinating and try again. After that, it's time for the the hacksaw and cold chisel.
Dave
This proves to me it's not threaded:
https://www.hobbywarehouse.com.au/tr...pins-2pcs.html

Hoppes #9 solvent:
http://ads.midwayusa.com/product/462...solvent-liquid

Last edited by fritzke; 02-01-2016 at 04:34 PM.
Old 02-01-2016, 04:57 PM
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PatrickCurry
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You might try slathering in some naval jelly and see if you can work that in there. That's worked wonders for me on all kinds of things over the years.
Old 02-02-2016, 07:39 PM
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I've read that a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF can be one of the most effective penetrating oils available for rusted parts. Apparently, they don't mix well and must be well shaken and applied with a spritzer. Do a search on "acetone and ATF" for some reading. I have used Kroil will success on several frozen parts.
Old 02-02-2016, 08:37 PM
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You can try Oil Of Wintergreen. It is sold at RiteAid and probably most "Health Food" type stores where Hippies shop for their eternal life giving products.
You can heat the area with a propane torch and baste it with drops of the oil. It won't free up badly rusted hardware on the first try, but if you are persistent and give it a bunch of tries it is powerful medicine.
A friend with an ancient outboard engine that we have operated on several times.will vouch for this.
I learned about this stuff from an old WWII Navy guy who used to change the gun barrels on battleships.
Marvel Mystery Oil smells like it has some Oil of Wintergreen in it.
Old 02-03-2016, 10:52 AM
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fritzke
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Yes, these are the kinds of "Hints from Heloise" I was looking for! No luck after 24 hours in the Hoppe's oil. I'll try it again tonight with the hammer/punch and the vise pressure. I can't imagine a terminal puller would be able to apply more pressure than the vise is giving me. BUT I am going to get one of those things, it looks pretty handy.
Thanks all,
Dave
Old 02-04-2016, 05:26 PM
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fritzke
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Ahhh, the sweet smell of Hoppes #9 AND success!
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Old 02-05-2016, 06:51 PM
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Cool
Old 02-06-2016, 04:12 PM
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I'm not sure what kind of purpose you have in mind for this engine, but if it's the original Traxxas engine, she's not all that impressive for power. I had one in an RC truck 18 years ago, traded it in for one of the new style 2.5cc versions. World of difference between the two. If it still has a good piston/liner fit and you like to tinker, there is some hop-up work a guy can do to them (Pro .15) to get more power from them. I tried it, and it woke it up some.. Still not a barn burner. http://www.nitrorc.com/mods/engines/trx15mod.html
Old 02-07-2016, 11:07 AM
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fritzke
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mostly just interested in making it "go" again. I'll probably make the hull it came from a 'lekkie and just enjoy it for what it is. It's all cleaned up and as soon as i score a couple bearings ill put her back together and see how she goes. the sharp eyed among you probably noticed i smacked the crankpin into the backplate, grrr but damage is just cosmetic and wont affect anything. I need another .15 like a hole in the head anyway.
Old 02-07-2016, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by fritzke View Post
mostly just interested in making it "go" again. I'll probably make the hull it came from a 'lekkie and just enjoy it for what it is. It's all cleaned up and as soon as i score a couple bearings ill put her back together and see how she goes. the sharp eyed among you probably noticed i smacked the crankpin into the backplate, grrr but damage is just cosmetic and wont affect anything. I need another .15 like a hole in the head anyway.
Fair enough. . I noticed you live in Crystal. Lived in MN a long time? I'm down in the southeast metro myself.
Old 02-08-2016, 07:21 PM
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fritzke
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Lived here all my life, though a brief stint in Madison, Wisconsin.
Bearings are on order, and that's all the money I'm spending on this project. Putting the pull starter back together was a learning experience. Everything is a bit more "wore" than I'd like, but the piston/cylinder look and fit great. Some of the crank counterbalance was actually corroded away, not enough to worry about, but I've never seen that before. Perhaps I'll order up a Dumas DV 10 some day for it.
Old 02-08-2016, 09:27 PM
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Nice little project. I've heard the newer Traxxas 2.5 engines make good aircraft engines from another fellow on here, though I'm not sure how the short crankshaft works with an air screw. I've had a few car engines laying around for awhile that would probably make killer aircraft engines, but the short cranks makes it hard to adapt. Does anyone make prop adapters that would allow the use of a decent prop on say a .18 or .21 car engine?

I've lived here all my life as well; except I lived in Prescott, Wis. for 3 years while my wife was in nursing school. Nice town; too many bars and nothing better to do though.
Old 02-09-2016, 07:37 AM
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Sometimes you can use a backplate from something else that is the same diameter, like an ASP or whatever, and then make a step nut for the front. A counterbore on the prop is needed. I think Toki .15s come with a ricki ticki extension on the front from one manufacturer. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k_AZpwxTX1Q
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Last edited by aspeed; 02-09-2016 at 07:44 AM.
Old 02-21-2016, 10:32 AM
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fritzke
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$8.00 from Tower...

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...4&I=LXDGE5&P=K
Traxxas Back Plate w/o Starter Traxxas 2.5
Old 02-21-2016, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by fritzke View Post
$8.00 from Tower...

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...4&I=LXDGE5&P=K
Traxxas Back Plate w/o Starter Traxxas 2.5
That won't fit the Pro .15 I don't believe. The crankcases are completely different. I have a 2.5 backplate if you want measurements of it or just want a backplate to mess with. I have a couple of them I think.
Old 02-27-2016, 10:31 AM
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fritzke
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All back together, new bearings and the compression is very good.
Dave
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Old 02-28-2016, 08:32 AM
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Engine looks real good. They look so much better after a bath.

I have used this stuff to loosen rusted nuts and bolts. I was surprised at how well it works. Sprayed it on the heads of exhaust manifold bolts and it seeped all the way to the threads a couple inches down the bolts.

http://www.amazon.com/Blaster-16-PB-.../dp/B000I2079E

Will you post pictures of it cutting a wake?


Buzz.

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