Go Back  RCU Forums > RC Airplanes > "1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes
Reload this Page >

Design KI1603 X-WRAE

Notices
"1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes These are the small ones...more popular now than ever.

Design KI1603 X-WRAE

Old 04-05-2020, 09:07 AM
  #51  
H5606
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: , MD
Posts: 777
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 6 Posts
Default

Used the planer to trim leading and trailing edges down and sanded flush to match ribs.

Backed up sandwiching root rib with #11 X-Acto blade while razor-sawing to create notch for control horns in all the flying surfaces. Placed horns and sanded root ribs flush with horns.

Drilled holes in a piece of scrap 1/4" lite ply - first with a brad-point followed with plain drill for blind nut - provided a flat to fill with 30 min epoxy, then blind nut inserted w/ 4-40 screw "handle". Cut all fabricated nut plates apart and trimmed down for turning in a drill press. These nut plates are to be bonded into the ends of all carbon tubes (wings and hinge knuckle) to accommodate a retention screw and washer. I'm turning them down in pairs with the drill press and Dremel - the cut-off wheel works better than the drum sander in this application - the nut is getting hot destroying the bond with the epoxy. There's always a better way to do something and I don't know it.





















The following users liked this post:
mgnostic (04-06-2020)
Old 04-17-2020, 04:43 PM
  #52  
H5606
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: , MD
Posts: 777
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 6 Posts
Default

Managed to get enough (6) usable nut plates to populate the open ends of all the carbon tubes. Concern over similar mat'l friction and wear from vibration prompted fabricating 1/64" ply washers to fit between ends of 'glass sleeves and retention washers. These ply washers were glued to the ribs in the four panels to spread out the bearing surface some. Waxed the 'glass retention washers and 4-40 socket head screws and assembled to act as a depth stop when bonding them into the ends of the tubes. All the carbon tubes needed careful shortening to eliminate end play; a white ink pen found in Hobby Lobby came in real handy here. Using another tube of equal OD and a close fitting tube to fit the ID was of benefit to remove the hinge knuckle tube while maintaining alignment of all the spacer washers and fore/aft fuse sections. When satisfied with final lengths, the tubes were ready to be populated with the nut plates. A Permagrit sanding tool was employed - wrapped with tape to limit depth and sanded the areas inside the tubes to give them some 'tooth'. The tubes were cleaned out with acetone; Hysol was used to bond the nut plates in simply because it always seemed tough without ever becoming brittle. Excess glue was knocked off after cure; last pic shows retention bolt and washer holding wing panel with 'glass sleeve on the carbon spar tube.

























The following users liked this post:
mgnostic (04-18-2020)
Old 04-19-2020, 05:51 AM
  #53  
H5606
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: , MD
Posts: 777
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 6 Posts
Default

Ref: Fiberglass bearing tube length in each panel is ~ 4.015"; carbon tubes trimmed w/ repetitive fit chks to eliminate end play.

Using term spar tube interchangeably with pivot tube to denote carbon tubes for wing panels in previous post.

Little bit concerned over selection of 1/16" vs 1/32"...

Since the major areas to get sheeting are right at 1" width (LE & TE), selected 4 sheets of 3" W 1/16" T sheeting to get enough material w/ excess to place 4 pcs on each panel - cutting right to size is risky. Cut 36" sht down to 30.5" L and cut width to 1.25" - cut in half for 15.25" lengths for some overhang on each panel (yielded 16 pcs). Placed sheet between T-pins to anchor on work surface and starting at the spar, applied white glue to this area only, placed panel against sheet using pins as guide to ensure alignment with spar - shimmed trailing side for first piece on each panel - started with bottoms. When dry, lifted sheeted wing assy from work surface, wet exposed surface with Windex, and even though considered against the law to use CA on balsa in certain parts of the Country, used thin variety to bond the remaining part of the sheeting to the ribs and sub LE/TE w/ capillary action. With all the bottom sheets attached, did same to top pcs - used more illegal, mid-grade CA w/ tip extension to apply glue to top of ribs - now I know why it would have been better to install the sheer webbing from the "backside" of the spars AFTER sheeting as would allow inspection and access to rib contact point w/ sheeting during closeout.

Last pic shows planing off excess sheeting; panels stiff in twisting now.

















Old 05-23-2020, 10:22 AM
  #54  
H5606
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: , MD
Posts: 777
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes on 6 Posts
Default

Traced center root and tip wing sheeting off drawing, cut templates from cardstock, and cut blanks to fit and glue between LE/TE sheeting. Used double-face tape to stack all blanks together and cut at same time creating identical copies (8 roots & 8 tips) Fit and glued first inboard 1/4" W cap strips to index location of root sheet pieces.












The following users liked this post:
mgnostic (05-24-2020)

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information

Copyright 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.