Mach None
01-04-2021, 10:23 PM
#26
Tanks are easy with the right parts on tap. I have found a bottle type that works well with rubber test tube bungs.
Makes for a nice low weight tank all parts sourced off ebay. The bung / stopper is press fitted with a bit of glue then heat
shrink is used to keep the stopper from migrating.
Makes for a nice low weight tank all parts sourced off ebay. The bung / stopper is press fitted with a bit of glue then heat
shrink is used to keep the stopper from migrating.
01-17-2021, 07:02 AM
#28
Hi all,
A little more progress. I mounted the horizontal fin (added elevator joiner) and vertical fin. I started working on the canopy. I am going to put the hatch on the bottom. I am trying not to deviate from the plans, but I do not have the vacuum formed canopy and I am not dealing with splitting the one I am making and putting the hatch on the top. I see a lot of difficulty in trying to get the seams to look nice on a hatch like that. I made the canopy from 1/4" balsa sheet. Enjoy!
RP
A little more progress. I mounted the horizontal fin (added elevator joiner) and vertical fin. I started working on the canopy. I am going to put the hatch on the bottom. I am trying not to deviate from the plans, but I do not have the vacuum formed canopy and I am not dealing with splitting the one I am making and putting the hatch on the top. I see a lot of difficulty in trying to get the seams to look nice on a hatch like that. I made the canopy from 1/4" balsa sheet. Enjoy!
RP
01-17-2021, 05:18 PM
#30
It's nice to see someone using the old RC Modeler wing jig concept. In the last year I've built 2 Hummer wings on my 1/4" steel rods.
Over the last 30 years I've built more wings then I could count. Probably around 30.
Over the last 30 years I've built more wings then I could count. Probably around 30.
01-18-2021, 05:50 AM
#31
Hi Greg!
Yes, I've been using those rods for years. Best investment I ever made. Just purchase two precision ground steel rods 48" long from McMaster if you have never tried it. Honestly I don't think I have ever build a wing quite this small. I didn't think It would work, and I had to leave off the outboard ribs on each end even still it barely fit. The 1/4 holes in the ribs made them very weak to handle and I broke nearly all of them in the process.
The real key to this method is to use oversized LE, TE and spars and glue them in, in a neutral state including any bow. Once it dries take a long sanding bar and true it all up.
RP
Yes, I've been using those rods for years. Best investment I ever made. Just purchase two precision ground steel rods 48" long from McMaster if you have never tried it. Honestly I don't think I have ever build a wing quite this small. I didn't think It would work, and I had to leave off the outboard ribs on each end even still it barely fit. The 1/4 holes in the ribs made them very weak to handle and I broke nearly all of them in the process.
The real key to this method is to use oversized LE, TE and spars and glue them in, in a neutral state including any bow. Once it dries take a long sanding bar and true it all up.
RP
01-18-2021, 08:55 PM
#32
My 1/4" rods were purchased about 30 years ago, so my rods are only 36" long, which at the time I figured would be
long enough for anything I might ever build. On larger projects I have to build one wing panel at a time. Someday I
might invest in some 48" rods. On a small 1/2A thin wing like the Mach None, or the Hummer, I just drill my 1/4" holes
closer to the center of the ribs where there is more "meat" (wood) to reduce breakage. Another trick I employ is to
Drill my holes around 3/16" dia. and then open the holes up with a 1/4" rat tail file in my electric drill, in REVERSE.
long enough for anything I might ever build. On larger projects I have to build one wing panel at a time. Someday I
might invest in some 48" rods. On a small 1/2A thin wing like the Mach None, or the Hummer, I just drill my 1/4" holes
closer to the center of the ribs where there is more "meat" (wood) to reduce breakage. Another trick I employ is to
Drill my holes around 3/16" dia. and then open the holes up with a 1/4" rat tail file in my electric drill, in REVERSE.
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Andrew (01-26-2021)
01-26-2021, 02:37 PM
#35
Originally Posted by Pond Skipper
Very nice what is the wood weight thus far?
Scale tells me 9.3 oz with the ailerons on now. I've never been accused of being a very light builder, but the plans call for an all up weight of 22oz. So I am still under 50%. I'm guessing that's pretty good? Not sure. What do you think?
RP
01-26-2021, 08:20 PM
#37
Hi Rick
Old gear back in the day 22oz would be the range. 2021 you want more power put towards performance.
by the weight savings from good modern hardware and RC components.
Old gear back in the day 22oz would be the range. 2021 you want more power put towards performance.
by the weight savings from good modern hardware and RC components.
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RickP (02-01-2021)
02-06-2021, 02:19 PM
#39
Well,
The wing is aligned. I really didn't plan ahead, so this part is kind of difficult. I have to figure out how to get the wing dowels installed and wing bolts. As for the alignment I assume the Wing, Thrust line and horizontal stab is 0-0-0.
Rick
The wing is aligned. I really didn't plan ahead, so this part is kind of difficult. I have to figure out how to get the wing dowels installed and wing bolts. As for the alignment I assume the Wing, Thrust line and horizontal stab is 0-0-0.
Rick
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Toad (02-18-2021)
02-10-2021, 12:41 PM
#41
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I just added a Mach-None to the collection, I'll scan the plans and build a copy so I can keep the original in the collection.
Does anyone happen to have a kit box with good artwork? If so, can you scan it or take the best pics you can and post them? My kit is in excellent shape but missing the sheet of paper for the box art.
Does anyone happen to have a kit box with good artwork? If so, can you scan it or take the best pics you can and post them? My kit is in excellent shape but missing the sheet of paper for the box art.
