RickP

My Feedback: (2)

Hello all,
I had a 1/2a project desire on the back burner for a while and several TD049's that need a home. A buddy of mine scored a foam core Mach None kit on E-bay. I borrowed the kit and copied it all. I made my own kit, at least all of the balsa and ply parts. I found the built up wing plans on here somewhere in the past and included that in my kit. I am not sure when I'll start it but I'll start a build thread here for it anyway. Maybe you guys can prod me along to start it.
Rick

skaliwag

My Feedback: (1)

Prod #1. You have the kit.
Prod #2.. Long Week end.
Prod #3... Git-'er-Done

fizzwater2

My Feedback: (61)

are we there yet?

hllywdb

The Mach None and Pacer were fun kits for TD's or Norvels. I've got a few of them. Just use as light gear as you can find.

RickP

My Feedback: (2)

I put together a hardware package this morning and ordered from Du-Bro. Couldn't find a 1oz tank. I bought a 2oz, but I think it is going to be too wide. I did see the one oz tank on Tower....
RP

Andrew

Search this forum for "Fuji film" . The tank will hold almost exactly an ounce and there are many hits on building it in several configurations.

Pond Skipper

Here you go I use ebay always venders there selling RC hardware this search brings up many 1oz brand tanks to choose from.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...ank&_sacat=220

WINANS

Built a few of those in the 70's/80's, great flier on TD .049/.051 and full size radio gear. Awesome glide, especially in ground effect. Have fun.

shahzad haider

Good

RickP

My Feedback: (2)

Hi Guys,
This will be the longest build thread ever - no worries. This is just a project in my spare time....

I hit my first snag very early on in the build. First step even. The kit I copied and cut from my friends vintage kit (I traced the parts from those in the kit) are not adding up to the plans I found on this forum. I put the doublers on the fuse sides first and then very quickly realized the formers do not match the fuse height. I copied the fuse sides from an original vintage kit, and cut the formers from the plans I found here. Something is not consistent - and by a lot. The fuse sides are like 1/2" too tall. Were there different versions of this kit I need to look out for? The plans say they are from ACE, as the kit was. If I lay the fuse sides over the plans I found here its clear there is a big difference. It's not scaling either I don't believe.....
Much Thanks,
Rick

hllywdb

I believe on the original the top was 1/4" and the bottom was at least 1/8" which would account for 3/8" of it. Also some, like the GLH had a foam top and bottom. So you may have cut the sides to the plan, which includes the top and bottom, making your fuselage sides too high. If you look at the cutaway on the plans you will see the sides do not go all the way to the top. Hope this helps.

RickP

My Feedback: (2)

I warned you guys, don't expect fast results on this build project LOL.
I resolved the fuse outline issue. I figured the motor Thrust line and Horizontal stab alignment was something I did not really want to mess with so, I wound up trimming 3/16" off the bottom of the fuse and raised the wing a bit, then things seemed to fall into place. Fuse sides are joined....
RP

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

Looking Good..!
This was a really good flying plane and a well engineered kit.

RickP

My Feedback: (2)

I am kind of at a standstill again. I have to install my pushrods before I can finish boxing up the fuselage. But to do that I have to plan out where I am going to place my servos and I am not sure what servos I am going to use. I have some Hitec HS-55's but they just don't seem right for the application to me. What servos are you guys using in 1/2a planes?
Rick

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

I have never seen a HS 65 with carbonite gears fail due to normal wear and tear.
I am a believer in mounting mini / micro servos with SHOE GOOP instead of building wood mounts inside the plane. I glue a 1 inch square of 1/32" ply to the fuselage side with medium CA..then glue the servo to the plywood with GOOP. You can even build your entire control linkage and hook it up before gluing in your servo that you have turned on and "centered"

Pond Skipper

These Conrona's are very good with grommets. 16.75 per for set of 4
https://www.ebay.com/itm/4pcs-Corona...Cclp%3A2334524

RickP

My Feedback: (2)

Okay, I got past the servo issue, so I figured out where to run my pushrods and I got them installed and the back of the fuse boxed up. I am on to the motor mount now, no references for thrust line though. Any Right Thrust, up thrust? How much?
RP

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

Just make sure you don't have any left thrust.
A relatively large model like this powered with a little more than 1/2 the thrust that it weighs isn't too sensitive to minor thrust adjustments. Once you get the model trimmed zero zero on the controls for level flight see how well it tracks on the vertical line.

RickP

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks, I called my buddy, he laughed at me. Said to just set it zero vertical and Left to Right.

What about hinges? What do you guys use on models this small? The stab is only 1/8" balsa. Is blenderm tape okay?

RP

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

I use the fuzzy CA hinges .one drop of thin [fresh] CA per each side of the hinge after the gap is exactly where you want it. Just be very careful about slitting the 1/8" balsa. Keep telling yourself that it's been done by 1/2A modelers since Adan & Eve with very little blood spilled. The more you do it, the better you get at it. The CA hinge might only be sold in large sheets right now, so all you need per hinge is 1/2" x 1" for each hinge.
I think Blenderm is only used to seal the gaps but if you can use it for 1/2A hinging that would be very cool.

RickP

My Feedback: (2)

Wow, you guys are making slits in 1/8" balsa? I'll have to practice that. Much Thanks!
RP

Pond Skipper

You can do monokote covering the bottom first. I use some tape on the top to hold the
elevator in place while ironing down the covering.

Pond Skipper

TD .09 plane - example here you can clearly see the surface wedges.

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

I tried using just the monokote as the hinge many years ago it failed. I don't remember the details, but just "wrote it off" all these years. I do the covering just like you do and I think it is superior instead of having open gaps.
There is a monokote hinge technique similar to the old cloth hinges that are woven over and under, alternating which side is over and then under. I could see doing this first and then going with the gapless covering technique you show here.
This topic has me curious enough about Blenderm to buy a roll of it to play with. I think DuBro sells it.

Tom Nied

Consider making your own tank from a small medicine bottle.