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Cleveland Model Parkflyer Racers

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Cleveland Model Parkflyer Racers

Old 12-03-2020, 02:59 PM
  #26  
Rob11
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Yes, I love it, it works awesome with balsa, it penetrate far into the wood, but is also flexible
Old 12-03-2020, 06:55 PM
  #27  
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This is my current wishlist
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mgnostic (12-04-2020)
Old 12-05-2020, 08:19 AM
  #28  
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This is my current little building bench, prepping for a build, and trying to coordinate with a cut company, because I would rather just punch stuff out😁, I believe it took me on average about 10 minutes per part depending on the part, I love that you canít tell itís stuffed building tools
Old 12-05-2020, 05:32 PM
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Old 12-05-2020, 07:42 PM
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Hey Guys,
sorry for sending the message and photos separate, i just prefer typing on the computer better, but anyway, the first photo shows what graphite paper can do for you if you use it correctly, but even then some of the part are not very clear, that is why i recommend not labeling your part sheets till after you transfer parts from paper to wood, because if you do, most of the time you wont be able to make out the label names, i would go back with a v5 ballpoint after you've transferred parts to wood and label them then, its a lot more neater and legible. however we all have to learn hard lessons i suppose, I was definitely not satisfied with the markings left on my wood after i transferred, and my lack of patience with using the same piece of paper over again, a good rule of thumb is to only use a single parts sheet once to write on and trace over the wood, because this weakens the paper and is very likely that your pencil will punch through the parts sheet and puncture the wood where on of your parts would be, ultimately ruining the part and causing you to have to trace a new part on another area of wood, sometimes costing you money for more materials. so being dissatisfied with parts you can see here, I visited good ol hobby lobby today and picked up some new wood, plus i took the parts sheet's advice for doubling the thickness of all the wood for a gas powered model, all six parts sheets ill now have in 1/8" balsa sheets, the longerons are the regular still the 1/16"x1/8", and the trailing edges of the stabs and wings are 3/32"x1/8". I looked for some 5/8" balsa for the wheel :fairing halves, but it must be an odd ball size, I may just cut 5 parts from 1/4" balsa sheet like the last build, ohhhhh my gosh it took soooooo long, it took at least an hour to cut all 5 pieces and sand them to shape. after that, i had to glue them all together to form a single block, then sanded it square on all sides and marked the centerline and wheel shaft holes, and then carved it to a very rough shape that barely resembled wheel pants on the plan, from there, it was all sanding with different grades of sand paper to get the smooth shape. if I was to finished the weaker rubber powered frame of the last model, i think I would have mixed up some pretty think DIY dope sanding sealer and put a good coat on the fairings and sand them down to look smooth. the leading edges of the wings are 1/2" wide by about 9" long. I'm goin to make them from 2 pieces of 1/4" balsa strips to form one leading edge. I going to do this because with just a razor knife to cut out your parts, its easier to cut thinner wood to make one thick one. 1/4" balsa strip for the two horizontal stab leading edges, and i believe that the vertical stab leading edge is going to be 3/16" strip like the last build, but don't quote me on that. and definitely note that while i love Cleveland models, this model's horizontal stabilizer has some work to be desired. for starters, there is no mounting holes or notches for the stabs to fit into, which is very inconvenient, and second, there is no linkage or spar connecting the stabs together, the only way I managed to get around this was because I had remembered how some of the ARF's I've put together in my better days, had a fiberglass tube running through both stabs to connect them, i pretty much did the same, except i used a small dowel glued in place, seemed strong enough to fly. also the rudder and elevator call for double acting fabric or paper hinges that are glued onto the exterior of the stabs and rudder and elevators, personally I don't see theses hinges lasting one flight. I'm honestly not sure remedy this very big problem. and one thing that i want to kick my self in the butt for, because i was soooo impatient and excited, is that i didn't cover the major parts of the model before I assembled it FML.. I feel that, that was a must, but I didn't do it because I was an idiot.
Moving Forward:
from here my new build is moving pretty slow, due to finally working now and money, keep in mind that my last build was when i had just gotten out last year and was attending school, so i had much time to sit there and sculpt a plan built model. like I said earlier, I really felt like starting over with fresh wood for a new build, it puts to rest any doubts I would have about any old wood. I just picked it up this afternoon on my way home. not much else has happened, the next thing I plan to do is to try and pick up some legitimate carbon paper in a blue color, seeing as the original Cleveland kits had part layouts printed in blue on the stock sheets, another avenue I am trying to pursue is a cutting company to alleviate any and all tracing. wouldn't that be nice right, a cutter is much better than my unsteady hand, that's for sure. well from here, I'm waiting to here back from a company on Monday to see if they will be able to cut the parts, and if so then i will post the sheets here for you guys to see, and if they cant, ill go out and buy some blue carbon paper and trace the parts all by hand and ill post those photos for yall.
Well that's where I'm at for now guys, any of yall going to start on a Cleveland racer with me ??

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