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Cox Reed Valve FAQ

Old 01-29-2011, 03:54 PM
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Default RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ

Lifted this one.
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Old 03-28-2011, 11:29 PM
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Default RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ

Is the physical size of the .010, and the .020 the same on the Cox engines?


I found what looks like a Tee Dee .010 or .020? in an antique shop today for $30. It looks pretty clean ( I could not take it out of the locked case because the owner was not there) has what looks like one of the muffler throttles on it, and a red plastic radial mounting plate on the back.

Im going to go back, and grab it, but I have had nothing smaller then the .049s so I cant tell much about it.
Old 03-29-2011, 07:52 AM
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Default RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ


ORIGINAL: dckrsn

And....I'm done now.

Love looking at the old ads, for some strange reason I feel so much older now.
Old 03-29-2011, 08:02 AM
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Default RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ

Mr Good,

Best way to tell is glow head diameter.

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Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6" /><w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false"UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6" /><w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false"UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6" /><w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false"UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 6" /><w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false"UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6" /><w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false"UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 6" /><w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false"UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6" /><w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" SemiHidden="false"UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Emphasis" /><w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" SemiHidden="false"UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Emphasis" /><w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" SemiHidden="false"UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Reference" /><w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" SemiHidden="false"UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Reference" /><w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" SemiHidden="false"UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title" /><w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" Name="Bibliography" /><w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading" /></w:LatentStyles></xml><![endif]><![if gte mso 10]><style> Style Definitions */table.MsoNormalTable{mso-style-name:"Table Normal";mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;mso-style-noshow:yes;mso-style-priority:99;mso-style-qformat:yes;mso-style-parent:"";mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt;mso-para-margin:0cm;mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt;mso-pagination:widow-orphan;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri;mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast;mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri;mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman";mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;}</style><![endif]><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black">If the dia. Is 0.44&rdquo; (11mm) then it is an 010</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family:"Arial","sans-serif";color:black">If the dia is 0.55&rdquo; (14mm) then it is an 020.</span></p>Bernie
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Old 03-29-2011, 04:00 PM
  #255  
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Default RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ

To give you an idea of the size of an .010, they used to sell it with a clip so that you could use it as a tie bar, when you wore a white shirt and a suit. Honest!! [sm=49_49.gif]

Bob
Old 03-29-2011, 07:35 PM
  #256  
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Default RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ

MrGoodwreck ... It is most likely a TD 020. CO* never released a thottle ring for the 010. Buy it!!!
Old 04-02-2011, 06:04 PM
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Default RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ

ORIGINAL: skaliwag

MrGoodwreck ... It is most likely a TD 020. CO* never released a thottle ring for the 010. Buy it!!!

I did end up buying it for $25.00, now just going to have to grab a wrench for it, and pick up a couple spare glo heads.

I have not run these little CO* engines in years. Is the SIG Champion Fuel 35% Nitromethane with 20% 1/2 Castor- 1/2 synth going to be what I want? ( That is the only thing my LHS has that I would think is good for 1/2A otherwise it is 10% and 15% Omega)

Do I need to add some Castor to the Sig 35%, if so It is in 1QT. bottles, so how much if any?

Thanks for all of the info so far men, I have not messed with these little engines in about 10 seasons.
Old 04-03-2011, 09:06 AM
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Default RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ


Here is a link to a fuel guide which may help answer your question:

http://coxengines.ca/pages.php?pageid=5

Cheers
Bernie
www.coxinternational.ca

Old 04-03-2011, 10:19 AM
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Default RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ


ORIGINAL: Cox International

Here is a link to a fuel guide
Thank you very much.

This may seem like a silly question, but...

They also have the Sig in 10%...

Could I mix the quart of 35%, and the quart of 10% in result of getting closer to 25%?
Old 04-03-2011, 02:31 PM
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Default RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ

As long as you end up with at least 10% castor oil (the balance can be synthetic) you should be fine.

Bernie
Old 04-03-2011, 02:43 PM
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Default RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ

If I may, I would strongly recommend Sig Champion 25. No fussing with different fluids, pretty good results just as it is. I went through the same questions. Starting is easy and I'm just about hitting the advertised numbers. And I would think most hobby shops could get it for you.
Old 05-15-2011, 04:02 AM
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Default RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ


I have been annealing glow head gaskets, COX and others, for lots of years and have been able to get a lot more mileage out of them.
I do it by hanging the washers on a piece of coat hanger wire and heating with my gas range. Could use Propane torch. 3-4 Cox washers should be hung together so they do not melt as easily when heated. I then heat them briefly until they have a bright orange glow like a glow plug element. I then very qiuickly dip them into a glass of cold H2o. Heating takes at most 10 sec. lest they melt. They become discolored but otherwise there does not seem to be any other ill effects. Has any one else used this practice?
Now on to the next question. Which is better to use on a COX engine? Phenolic or Stainless Thrust Washers. Other than longevity, I lean toward Stainless though they are hard to lap if necessary to the needed thickness on a flat surface and fine emery paper. Phenolic washers are very easy to lap. Until recently, I have only used Shim Washers to adjust crankshaft end play. Now I find it imperative to use washers to reduce wear with the use of my home made cluged together electric starter.
Old 06-24-2011, 09:27 PM
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Default RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ

Just cleaned up two Texaco Cox's that had set up a year or three or four. One had a gasket between the tank and the crankcase and the other did not. Does anyone know where I can find another gasket?
I am planning to use these in 1/2A Texaco competition and am using the Cox 7X3.5 grey props. The engines run pretty well but both seem to have a long flat spot in setting the needle valves...plus they do not seem to run over a minute. Maybe my Cox fuel is old. I have some RedMax 30% I will try tomorrow. Also the engines do not seem to really want to scream...if I lean them out they run for a while and quit.
Also I have a conversion head to allow a standard short plug. Is this legal in competition? Anything to gain with this?
I have some of the "conversion kits" but the tanks are bigger. Is this the legal one, or the smaller one that came on the engine.
Finally, with that little plastic reed valve and the holder for it...the holder has two tabs...are they supposed to at the center of the reed or at each end? Sorry to sound dumb..but I really don't know.
Thanks for help..
Frank Schwartz
Old 06-25-2011, 06:13 AM
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Default RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ

Gaskets are available from [link=http://coxengines.ca/home.php?cat=25&sort=orderby&sort_direction=0&page =2]COX International.[/link] When you replace the crankcase gasket, I would suggest that you also get some replacement venturi gaskets - if old or malformed, these gaskets can cause more aggrevation than a man should endure.

If you're getting around a minute runtime, check your fuel pickup tube. If it's the original, it likely has hardened and should be replaced or it may not be fully pressed onto the fuel nipple on the backplate. Either way, once your fuel level drops below the level of the nipple, the engine sucks air and quits.

Conversion heads using a standard plug tend to perform poorly compared to the stock head or the Gailbreath/NELSON conversion.

It doesn't matter about the tabs on the holder over time the reeds may tend to rotate.

andrew
Old 06-25-2011, 08:32 AM
  #265  
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Default RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ

Great! I found the page immediately....now I can stock up on parts I might need...like the little o ring, too...
Thank you so very much.
Frank Schwartz AMA 123
85 years young...still building and flying...who remembers when the only sure thiings in life were death and taxes......now it's death and taxes ..and shipping and handling...
Old 06-25-2011, 10:03 AM
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Default RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ


ORIGINAL: Frank Schwartz

Frank Schwartz AMA 123
That's a great AMA number.

Good luck in you!!
Old 08-06-2011, 12:26 AM
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Default RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ

Great thread - learned a lot from reading this - thanks Guys!

Does anyone have any suggestions for sourcing a muffler/silencer for the .049's? Watching Cox International, E-Bay etc. but they seem to be rarer than hen's teeth...
Old 02-15-2012, 05:34 PM
  #268  
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Default RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ

Dens Hobby Supplies here in the UK currently have them in stock for about £12
Old 04-10-2012, 02:58 PM
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Default RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ

easy speed control on cox 049- reed valve engines, Davis diesel head no carb needed,
just attach a small servo arm to the top of the compression screw, removing the spring will lighten the load so it can be controlled by a small servo and control rod
1/4 to 1/3 turn on the screw will back off the compression to really slow the engine enough so plane can be landed

Also the Davis killer crank is a hard chrome alloy steel not just the hardened common stuff, also note there is no thinning of the shaft in the middle, not needed
when thinned creates excess wear on crankcase since bearing surface reduced allowing a shaft wobble this motion shaft not running true in case can break a crankpin fuel to use Davis 1/2 A martin
Old 04-24-2012, 12:46 PM
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Default RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ

does anyone knoe where i can find a dragonfly tank. looking to upgrade the tank on my rc bee. don't have the engine with me but here's a pic of what it looks like!!
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Old 02-10-2013, 01:41 AM
  #271  
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Default RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ

hello all,
I just gave one of my Cox .049 a bench run today with 25% nitro and with 25% castor and after the first tank, I noticed there was a bit of slop/play in the crankshaft/crankcase. Does anyone know what the limits are (if there are any) regarding end float and crankshaft/crankcase clearance? I will bring the engine in question to my work where I can check these dimensions on a bench with a dial indicator and see what figures I get.
Thanks
Old 02-10-2013, 03:19 AM
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Default RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ

The sloppy ones often run better/faster, so don't worry to much about it...
Old 02-10-2013, 05:34 AM
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Default RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ

sweet, thanks, I will end up getting a phenolic washer as well just to remove a bit of the end float as the engine in question will be used in a pusher configuration.
Thanks again.
Old 07-18-2013, 09:09 AM
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Default RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ

Hi all,

I have a question here, I found that in all 049 size cox reedie, it will perform far lower power than any rotary valve 049 engine. What is the factor that limit the reedie's power? there's one reedie that can compete TD 049, thats old Space Hopper 049, its reedie, but same power as TD 049. what's the main reason it perform so well then? anyone who owned Space Hopper can explain what the different between Space hopper and current production reedie?
Old 07-18-2013, 12:07 PM
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Default RE: Cox Reed Valve FAQ

The Space Hopper DOESN'T perform at the same level as the TD 049-there are published engine tests on both in MAN (and elsewhere). The limiting factor with all reed valves is they block the induction tract-and even when open still pose a significant obstruction to the flow of fuel mixture. The second factor is the induction timing is pefectly symmetrical-90 degrees either side of bottom dead centre (at least theoretically!)-again this is not optimal (though it does confer the dubious advantage of being able to run in either direction). All other induction systems with the exception of piston (='side' ported)-ie crankshaft rotary, rear disc or rear drum, are quite assymetric in their induction timing-which is usually longer than 180 degrees of crankshaft rotation.

In the case of the Space Hopper, it used a similar crankcase, carburettor, piston cylinder and head as the TD, so the differences can be attributed essentially solely to the induction system. The much later Killer Bee (the original ca 1996 version) reed valve was more or less on par with the TD-but it had a much more developed reed system, different piston cylinder, different crankshaft to the earlier reed valves. Depending on which of the published TD engine tests you believe (R.H Warring in 'Aeromodeller' or P.G.F.C.Chinn in 'Model Aircraft' and MAN)
the TD was anything from 16% to 60% more powerful than the Space Hopper....in any case you'd have to cross reference all 3 tests to check that the same fuel (or comparable fuel) was used, props were the same etc.....

ChrisM
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