asmund

Hello, I have a line control Norvel Big Mig .061 that I now want to use on a small profile 3-D plane. I therefore need a carb for the engine, but none are available anymore and Norvel is gone.
Are carbs interchangeable between the Norvel .061 and AP .061 Wasp???
Is the AP .061 Wasp engine a good alternative if the carbs are not interchangeable?
Will the AP .061 Wasp be as powerful as my Norvel ? (APC 6-3=18900 rpm)

Any thoughts and input here are very appreciated, thanks

skaliwag

My Feedback: (1)

The AP carb is $15... The complete engine is $45... Might as well get the whole enchilada.

ProBroJoe

Not sure if the carbs will interchange, but I can speak for the performance of the AP - mine turns an APC 5.7x3 at 18,500 RPM on 25% Nitro... Looks like it's a bit weaker than the Norvel, but not by much.

Andrew

The AP will not interchange without an adapter. The base of the NORVEL is oblong; the base of the AP is round. The passage area of the NORVEL is larger, but this is partially compensated for since the mount screw of the NORVEL passes thru the base and the AP screws do not.

The QC with AP is hit and miss -- sometimes you get a decent one and sometimes not. Average performance is considered to be generally below the NORVEL.

I see that Tower has raised the price back to the $45 quoted by skaliwag. They had been $40, then raised to $45, then dropped to $40 again, and now back up to $45. [link=http://www.selecthobbies.com]Select Hobbies[/link] also lists the engine.

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

With a little bit of creative filing and some JB Weld, I think you could adapt the AP carb to the Norvel case. I've swapped TD venturis over to the Norvel case.

ProBroJoe

Of course you have... CP, your ingenuity never ceases to amaze me!

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

PBJ, I just took a look at that swap and it was more of a case of painstaking, arthritis inflaming stupidity that inspired me to do it. I drilled and tapped a 1/4"x32 hole in 1/4" thick aluminum plate, then whittled the plate down to fit the oblong hole in the Norvel case. Probably took a whole 6 pack to make it through all that!

Asmund, Unless you really think this stuff is fun...it might be better to just look for a good Norvel RC engine. The other idea is to just use the C/L engine as is for R/C.

To glue a carb into the oblong Norvel hole, I'll bet a drop of gear oil will do a nice job of masking off the crankshaft from the glue. The bottom of the carb opening could have something pushed into that dissolves later on, like a chunk of polyurethane foam? Then just dump enough JB Weld in to seal the deal.

flyinrog

My Feedback: (1)

The bigmig I got at the swap meet was gummed up and frozen with factory oil...it is tight!!!! but there is no carb on it either, I may just leave it that way as the one I gave raindave ... has needed a lot of breakin time.....not sure its finished yet...as I havent seen Dave for a month or so....good to know I could put the ap carb on it though...its an .049 but I'm sure its the same case size....Rog..it was even in the same box as the one I got 3 years ago, but this time he also had some teedee .049's in there too...might be older stuff, cause the muffler has the exhaust straight out of the back in a reverse megaphone style....

Andrew

The diameter of the base of the AP carb is slightly greater than the width of the carb opening in the NORVEL case. Filing flats on the AP base over the mounting holes would allow a slip fit -- it wouldn't take much to get it in. The mounting holes in the AP look like they will match without alteration to the NORVEL -- I just eyeballed it without taking a measurament.

Once mounted, you could remove the crank and dam the underside of the venturi opening even with the bottom of the AP base, then fill in from the topside in front and behind the base to block the remainder of the oblong area. If I tried it, I think I would be inclined to use a gasket filler or RTV -- something that I could get out if necessary. Once the JB weld goes in, it will be stuck.

EDIT: Looks like CP and I posted about the same time.

asmund

Thanks alot guys, for your valuable inputs
I will see what I`ll do. Maybe I`ll get a new AP and hope for a good one and if not, I can file the carb and JB weld it to the Norvel.
I really need the throttle funktion or it will be very difficult to hover my profile

asmund

By the way, who sells the AP carb? It doesn`t seem like Tower has them or Select hobbies.

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

Asmund, as long as you only use it for hovering, then it is OK to have a 1/2A throttle.

skaliwag

My Feedback: (1)

Hobby People

http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/212152.asp

asmund

Thanks for the help all of you.
Combatpigg have been so generous as to offer me an AP carb for me to modify to fit my Norvel, so I`m all set now

One last question, I have to really shave every possible gram off my plane and have already ordered a 400 mah 2 cell lipo (22 grams) and a regulator (7.5 grams) to power the servos and now I wonder if a 1 oz tank will be sufficient for 5-6 minutes of flying on various throttle settings???
I have very little experience with my little engine so I have no clue how thirsty it is. I could measure up an oz of fuel and time how long it runs on it , but for now I can only run it wide open and it will be a different story when I get an rc carb.
Will a 1 oz tank do or better order a 2 oz tank???
Thanks guys I really appreciate your help[8D]

digital_trucker

1oz gives a good long time, I get close to 20-minute flights with my Wasp-powered Q-Tee on a 2oz tank.

asmund

Ok, I will order a 1 oz tank then

ProBroJoe

If you want to keep it light, a Fuji film canister tank (holds about 1 oz.) gives me right around seven minutes of full throttle flying on my AP .061 powered SureShark.

-Joe

P.S. I'm going to go measure the exact volume as I've been dying to know...

ProBroJoe

Well there ya go - a Fuji film canister tank holds 30 cc or 1.01 oz. - it's all up weight with tank, lid, hoses and clunk is 12g / .38 oz. For comparison's sake, a DuBro 2 oz tank weighs in at a full 28g / 1 oz...

Mr Cox

Nice fit in that plane, how do you seal the tank?

ProBroJoe

No sealing necessary - the lid that snaps on is fuel tight... there's several threads here on how to make these cheap and light tanks. FWIW, I tried drilling the holes to pass the fuel line through, but I found (as others have suggested) it's better to melt the holes in with a heated nail, phillips screwdriver, soldering iron, etc... as it's less likely to crack the plastic and it has the added benefit of creating a nice filleted hole.

-Joe

BuzzBomber

My Feedback: (4)

You can punch the holes too. I have made several of those tanks, and so far none have cracked. What I did was take a short piece of brass tubing the correct diameter, sharpen the end by running an exacto knife around the inner bore, and use it as a punch with the fuel tank resting on a piece of doug. fir.

asmund

Nice Thanks guys. Now, where to find those obsolete film canisters in these digital days[sm=50_50.gif]

Dragnfly53

the parts are interchangeable, I have an AP.o61 wasp with a Norvel big mig piston/cylinder. We have to be very careful to disassemble from Crank, don't want to damage. I couldn't get the tuning correct because the compression was poor on the AP, scratched cylinder sleeve.
​​​​​​ so I mixed it up. I'd like to send a picture to you of what it looks like.I am very impressed by its performance, absolutely supreme idle. and run up. it was on an antique neofun vision arf.

Pond Skipper

AP .061 APC 4.2x4 / 94 mph peak pass

Norvel AME .061 APC 4.2x4 / 108 mph peak pass

I forgot

have a brand new norvel 071 that I recieved with out needle valve . was saving it for parts since have 2 more but if you can use it maybe we can work it out !