Bill, The camo paint scheme was done well, just not the same as I needed. After the colors are applied at the factory they clear coat it in flat clear. I needed to remove the decals so I started out by sanding them with 400 wet/dry. It took forever to get one removed. The next thing I did was place a damp towel over a decal for about 10 minutes, and that was the trick. The decal just peeled off, which told me the clear coat was not very thick. After removing the decals I lightly sanded everything with wet 400 just to be sure the surface had enough "grip" to accept the new paint. It took some searching to find the right colors of paint for what I wanted. I ended up using Rustolium Flat Camo. Found it at Home Depot. Only problem was it came in spray cans. I knew I couldn't get the detail and color seperation I needed with spray cans, so I took one of the cans of paint and turned it up-side-down, placed a weight on the can and let the propellant dissipate. The first attempt didn't go as well as I expected. It seems a vast amount of the propellant goes into saturation with paint. After the first draw down on the propellant I drilled a small hole in the side of the can near the top. So far so good. I drilled a second hole in the oppisite side of the can to allow an easy flow of paint out of the can into a container. Here's where I found out about the propellant in saturation. As I began to pour the paint out, it all fizzed up as it went into the container. What a mess. Anyway you can use spray paint using this method only you need to shake the can about 4 different times and expell the propellant out each time, by then it will just pour out without fizzing up. Just be sure to do a final shake to mix everything up before pouring it into your container. I use a Pashae airbrush to do the painting. Two coats for each color then 3 coats of flat clear coat. I was going to use LusterKote flat clear, but no matter what I did it always comes out a satin finish. So I ended up using Testors Clear Flat Dull Coat. Works perfect but probably not very fuel proof. I did do the belly with LusteKote to be sure that part of the fuse was fuel-proof, then wet sanded it with wet 600. I'll get some pics off shortly. My flash card has gone walk-about, so I'll need to get a new one.
I checked VQ Warbirds and they seem to have them in stock. Give them a try. Mike
http://www.vqwarbirds.com/product_in...ff341ae187245f