ORIGINAL: dbacque
AK, you didn't mention what engine/prop combination you are using. This airplane set up per the plans should slow down very nicely. If you've changed anything from the plans the above ideas are good things for you to check.
But most of the time when people can't slow a plane down the problem is technique. What is your flying history? As Steve asked, is this a move up to a more advanced airplane? You have to remember, your Katana isn't going to be as draggy as a trainer or a stick so it's not going to slow down as quickly. And flaperons definitely isn't the answer. We've all played with them at one time or another and most all abandon them as not a good thing. As you have discovered they make the plane non-responsive right when you need the response the most. And if you do use them, 25 degrees is way too much.
The usual answer to this problem is to slow down your plane sooner and start your descent sooner. A light, slick airframe has a much shallower approach angle than a draggy airplane. If you try to come in too high, when you force it in you will gain airspeed that you can't bleed off until you're past the runway.
When I prepare to land I chop my throttle back to just about 3 clicks above idle on the downwind leg about directly in front of me. That's right, still have half a circuit to fly and I'm almost at an idle. Let the plane descend during the downwind leg. Do be careful of your turns as you're flying slower now make gentle turns and watch for stalls. Keep the nose down in the turns and you'll be bleeding off altitude. When you come out of your final turn you should be much lower than the approach you make with a stick or a trainer. If you're too low, add a little throttle to stretch the approach. As you approach the runway continue descending and cut throttle even more. That plane should be able to slow very nicely but it will require throttle and altitude management.
The last thing is to practice. Get out to the field when it's not crowded and practice touch and goes. One after another. Entire flights of touch and goes. Don't be afraid to put the power back on and go around if you're coming in hot. If you do enough touch and goes you'll find the technique that works for you and your plane.
Dave
Hi,
My Hangar9 Katana 50 is set as electric plane with AXI 4120/14 and Tunder Power 5S 5000maH (661gr).
Due to CG disbalance I have added 170gr to the motor mount.
Ready to fly weight is 3550gr.
Yes, it is step up from E-Flight Carbon-Z Yak-54, which I am flying for entire season.
16 batteries per weekend with 7-9min each flight.
Most 3D is mastered well and I start feeling that Yak is a bit slow in the air compare with the other balsa build electric planes.
The reasons for step up:
1) Would like to fly faster and do 3D at higher speed;
2) Would like to fly larger and heavier plane. You know. it feels differently in the air :-).
The problem for me: Faster in general this plane is approaching relatively short landing strip with higher speed and it is bothering me and stress me every time during the landing.
With Carbon-Z Yak-54 I can land on 10m strip time after time w/o problem.
For 50" size Katana over 100m strip is not long enough :-)
I am thinking to slow down plane before landing by turning it 360 degree around to slow down and flare on the last 90 degree of the turn and only then take direction toward the landing strip . . .
Our field is surrounded by moderate size trees on approach directions, thus I have to dive down at the beginning of the landing strip and this increase the speed when plane is already close to the ground (2-3m altitude).
At this altitude I am afraid to flare as I may stall the plane w/o the chance to gain the speed again at 1.5-2 m altitude.
As a result of increased speed after diving down to ~3m altitude and no action to slow down plane while the final 1.5m -0m slope my plane is always hitting the end of the strip with bushes (not what I like to see :-) ).
I am also planning to remove 170gr weight from the nose and put rudder servo to the centre of the plane with push/tow setting instead of tail located servo with regular pushrod.
This should help with CG and 170gr weight may not needed anymore.
Thank you for all your inputs and more advises are welcome