ORIGINAL: dadkins
Ya the ol turn 180 and gas it - theres your brakes - I have a couple lakes right by my house and a fresh untracked snow makes for a FAST flat surface. Now we just need some snow. I have tried going on ice - but that is REALLY tricky - and it ripped the hell out of my bottom - not my bottom -the boats bottom.
I believe the gasser I have is a 26CC and I also have a cuple ryobi 30 cc's to work with. Ya know the gassers don't interest me as much either for some reason. Awesome on my mt bike ! but I really preffer the scream of the little nitro motors.
I glued the veneer down last night for the topside - tried doing it without slitting it but the 2 direction compound curves kept leaving a buckle in the front and I ended up slitting it in two spots - I used about 1/2 a roll of masking tape 50 lbs of weights a steamer and about 20 clamps and just could NOT Get er flat. Anyways I think I can hide the slits with a stripe or something but would have preffered the nice clean one piece top.
I know what you mean with compound curves. They are very hard to make work, and the thicker the plywood the harder it is to get the curve to come out. This is part of the reason I like using the thin 1/32" plywood for skin. I had to make a "Y" cut on the big kami to get the curves to work out, but so far on the new mini-kami the bottom compound curve worked out okay using a bunch of clamps and weights.
Looking good though. I can't wait to see yours done. Keep up the good work, and pics! We'll be on unfrozen water before we know it!
Edit: One thing I forgot to mention regarding compound curves... If you can taper your curves to be as "soft" as possible, you can get the compound bend to lay down flat without having to make any "Y" cuts. My compound bends on the big Kami were a lot "harder" resulting in the "Y" cuts. On my current project, I softened the curves substantially and that seemed to really make all the difference. Probably too late now, but just something I noted along the way here..